Video

My suggestion is buying a dual channel esc such as www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001854920562.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.5.4340i3T9i3T9pq&algo_pvid=a91d977a-4949-4671-88c5-ad0fced04163&algo_exp_id=a91d977a-4949-4671-88c5-ad0fced04163-2&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21TWD%21143.69%21126.41%21%21%214.49%213.95%21%40212a6a4e17252833119574266e211f%2112000017866629008%21sea%21TW%210%21ABX&curPageLogUid=hffXa4ugVNdG&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch%7Cquery_from%3A or www.aliexpress.com/item/4000429743779.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.3.4340i3T9i3T9pq&algo_pvid=a91d977a-4949-4671-88c5-ad0fced04163&algo_exp_id=a91d977a-4949-4671-88c5-ad0fced04163-1&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21TWD%21496.05%21347.24%21%21%2115.50%2110.85%21%40212a6a4e17252833119574266e211f%2110000001779151517%21sea%21TW%210%21ABX&curPageLogUid=1t9OY338zJuQ&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch%7Cquery_from%3A it must be a forward/reverse one, and another question maybe the setting of the remote controller.

@@allen8775 I think the second option is better because it has connections for three motors: the turret motor and the two rear motors, but you didn’t answer my question! Do I need to make any modifications to the Tamiya motor?

@@Shisxz The answer is in the description under the film.

@@allen8775 You told me that you only replaced the motors because of the speed. However, my question is whether you made any modifications to make the tank turn right and left. Did you cut or change anything besides the motors?

Hello, The material is piano steel wire : czcams.com/video/UcFH2_KkGks/video.html @ 0:33 The road wheel arm and torsion bar: czcams.com/video/_gp_t1ISAsU/video.html @0:09 Thank you.

Thank you.

Yes, it is Tamiya Gear Box 70097 with 130-14150 DC Motor.(130 motors were separate purchased)

@@allen8775 Are the original engines bad? I bought a lot of stuff yesterday to make the tank like yours, if you can, can you record a new video showing the inside of the tank better? I still don't understand how its suspension works

@@allen8775 Can you tell me which engine you bought?

@@Shisxz The origin motor runs too fast, and you can type 130-14150 motor to get this one.

@@allen8775 You understand a lot about the subject, but do you think a quick Abrams is bad? If it doesn't bother you, could you give me your email so I can send you messages about my questions? would you be my mentor for this project

You might mean this: www.ebay.com/itm/204544582123 The tracks is not with independent links.

​@allen8775 yoooo thanks, where did you get your tracks?

@@Kingofcurthes Please try this www.ebay.com/p/1701703872

Hello, you may try the following link: www.aliexpress.com/item/4000429743779.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.3.525dPCaiPCai3v&algo_pvid=49e2adba-82fc-4718-b3f1-b51a9d053cec&algo_exp_id=49e2adba-82fc-4718-b3f1-b51a9d053cec-1&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21TWD%21501.58%21351.11%21%21%2115.50%2110.85%21%402101e80317185449820928843e1491%2110000001779151517%21sea%21TW%210%21AB&curPageLogUid=w9PdHCo3ROuT&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch%7Cquery_from%3A

Thank you! that means the kit @ 0:15.

Thank you!

Thank you!

Yes, I tested two vehicles and they are ok.

@@allen8775 hello, thank you for the answer. Apparently it is my electrical connection 🙏🏻 I resoldering everything with my brand new high quality solder and it works fine!

Thank you, it is more challenging to make rc models with 1/48 kit.

​@@allen8775How did you make those tracks movable?

​ @@richard29415 The track in this model kit is movable.

Thank you, for your reference: czcams.com/video/_gp_t1ISAsU/video.html @ 2:55 or czcams.com/video/nVNQHfg5mg8/video.html @ 3:25

Hello, please try this link www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005994125342.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.109.15c3618bIn1YWA&algo_pvid=9b3bc34b-bc39-4102-b368-225cf3c5a2eb&algo_exp_id=9b3bc34b-bc39-4102-b368-225cf3c5a2eb-54&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21TWD%21102.84%21102.84%21%21%213.18%21%21%402101d8f416965131201374708e1141%2112000035218238154%21sea%21TW%210%21AB&curPageLogUid=dMIq87GyomSM

That is the remaining material (frame) after cutting the model parts. Of course you can use plastic rod or pipe.

Hello, may not find that. Watch more related videos, read more about vehicle and mechanical structures from website, and try to make them by hand, you will gain something. Learn by experience.

Are you talking about Rc tank jm?

Hello, I would use metal track if I can find that. The main problem on this tank is support idle roller, It must be sure that the track can run pass it smoothly. And another problem is the track touch the hull while running. You can check this.

@@allen8775 okay thank you. Actually I am starting saving money to buy more expensive tamiya leo 2A6 just to make sure everything is precise. Its like everything is wrong with hobby boss 🤣 I am testing it this morning with tracks and just hold it in the air with one hand and run it, it has no noise! So I am sure it is the alignment issue of the road wheels that create this noise, only when it is running on the ground the noise is exist.

Hello Patrick, 1. Bond the driving wheel (sprocket) and the hexagonal rod with A+B glue. Then pinned them with 0.5~0.7mm steel wire after the glue is solidified. Do not care the length of the hexagonal rod this moment . 2. The inner hole of the final gear of the gearbox is tight. Put the gearbox into the hull, then put in the final gear, and then insert the drive wheel from the outside of the hull, so that the drive wheel, the gearbox and the final gear will stay on the hull. 3. After confirming the position of the driving wheel, pull the driving wheel and cut off the redundant shaft, then insert it again, and fine-tune the position of the driving wheel. Then it is done.

It's also a good idea.

Thank you, please.

😊

Please look at the video @0:10 & @0:16, that's all.

I mean the one at 0:29

@@ulungprabowo Yes, I had thinking about this, but the shaft must be 1 mm because the height of guide plate of the track.

Please try Academy M60A1 Rise with M9 Dozer Blade 1390.

Using electric round grinding rod to cut first and then half circular file to fine trim.

​@@allen8775 thank you. The elecyric grinder work nicely. I could remove the materials in minutes. Now I am waiting the gluing process on the suspension anchor. It seems like you anchor your torsion bar using super glue, just like what I did. If so, how do you remove the white snowy residue during the curing/drying process?

@@ulungprabowo Using fan blow it after gluing.

​@@allen8775 Thank you!!

Thank you! Yes, that is torsion bar.

🙂

Please try the following link item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=a312a.7700824.w4002-16249029871.39.41ac4c1c72oPWu&id=607361260717 or searching "2GT" pulley and belt on Aliexpress www.aliexpress.com/item/32870364828.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.97.576a585aSjCGoJ&algo_pvid=04cb56cc-8f32-42cd-aaa4-64780d5d29b6&algo_exp_id=04cb56cc-8f32-42cd-aaa4-64780d5d29b6-48&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22sku_id%22%3A%2210000001842955816%22%7D&pdp_npi=3%40dis%21TWD%219.98%219.98%21%21%21%21%21%40211bda9b16763814513571692d0763%2110000001842955816%21sea%21TW%210&curPageLogUid=jo9FrMsGObvt

@@allen8775 thanks a lot!

Information from internet: The Leitkreuz is part of the lighting system of military land vehicles. To provide any evidence opposing forces may at dark the road driving lights, for example, for driving under combat conditions of tanks and trucks through the so-called Tarnlicht be replaced. It helps the following vehicle in the column to detect the position and the distance of the preceding vehicle. The lighting of the Leitkreuzes is very weak, so it is only a few meters far visible to the naked eye even in total darkness. The blackout lighting has four stages, Leitkreuz illuminated when the stage 1 and 3 The Leitkreuz (also Tarnlicht Leitkreuz- called) is located at the rear of a vehicle and is attached to something covered up usually. It consists of a green rubber plate with a painted white cross. At the intersection of the cross-beam body is attached a small lamp in which there is an incandescent lamp (24 V / 4 watts). Through four holes in the lamp body, the white cross beams are selectively illuminated. To stabilize and protect the lamp, a cross-shaped frame is attached from thin steel tubes. The flexible rubber plate is mounted so that it is possible not damaged or torn off when driving off-road. When driving in the dark column at least one stage of Tarnkreises should be generally used. The illuminated in this state Leitkreuz represents the minimum of what is required of the following drivers for orientation. This is especially true when driving on forest roads at night where little or no residual light available and the front man can only be guessed yet. Rides Leitkreuz or the Tarnlicht ever be carried out only on command and not permitted on public roads in peacetime.

@@allen8775 Thank you very much!

The swing arm is a good question, You might do it better.

@@allen8775 I have tried many method to anchor the torsion bar to swing arm and your method is the only method I found works, since it is very small it is not noticeable after painted anyway. By the way what putty do you use for the swing arm axle to make it circular?

@@ulungprabowo After sticking the remodeling stick, sand it with a file and sandpaper.

Thank you, there is not automatic tensioner on the vehicle because of plastic track (light weight). And if can be sure it always keep appropriate tension on track, I would not install this structure. .

@@allen8775 ok, that makes sense. Thank you 🙏 Would you only recommend constructing a tensioner if you were installing aftermarket metal tracks then? Your conversions are fantastic! Please keep them coming 😃

@@FD-fx6mh Because the track length is often not just right, it's better to have tensioner for track, even kind of manually adjustment(such as Panther or M36). In principle, plastic ones are manually adjusted, and metal and also run fast ones are automatically adjusted for quick response.

@@FD-fx6mh The rotation of the sprocket has a tension side and a slack side, and for the main consideration is running forward. The rear drive vehicle and the metal track are suitable for the automatic tension adjuster. The plastic track is too frail, I have not tried it yet. Track on front drive vehicles can be adjusted manually, and it is also more suitable.

@@allen8775 thanks for all of your help and advice 👍 I’m converting a Ryefield Model Challenger 2 and using your videos and tips in the process. Had considered using optional metal tracks but after reading your comments will stick with the kit supplied working plastic tracks. Unlike the Tamiya Challenger that was originally designed to be motorised, the idler/tensioner design is accurate and mounted outside the hull which means that there is much less space in which to create a working tensioner. Not ideal but not impossible!

1. Fold one end of the steel rod into a J-shape, drill 2 holes in the shaft center of the swing arm and the corresponding position. 2. Then pass the steel rod through the shaft center, and press the hook into the other hole to fix it. 3. Put swing arm (and also steel rod) into the hull, cut the steel wire to an appropriate length, adjust the angle of the swing arm, and bend the other end of the steel rod at 90 degrees about 2 mm long direct to hull. 4. Drill a hole on the hull at steel wire bend position, press the bend into the hull, and confirm that the movement of the swing arm are smooth and the angles of each swing arm are consistent, then apply glue. 5. The thickness from front to rear can be 0.6, 0.6, 0.5, 0.5, 0.5, 0.6, 0.6

@@allen8775 Oh, I see, thanks!

Hello, Can find the stuff all or similar from AliExpress or Taobao China. The links are in the full information at the bottom of the screen. Gearbox is Tamiya item 70097, and it's better to replace the servo to EMAX ES9051 4.3g. Thank you.

Thank you and happy new year. The 130-14150 is better in my past experience. But it is not included in Tamiya gear box, the motors in the kit running too fast. How I make dicision is up to the space of the tank, you have no choice sometime.

@@allen8775 Happy new year! I see, I build the leopard now, and kinda can't decide what gearbox I should use. My tamiya twin motor gearbox is so noisy and I want to improve it, but my N20 in my turret is so silent make me wonder should I try the N20. Chinese maker in their weibo group usually use N20 and I dont know why they decide to use N20 and I also cant speak chinese so I cant ask. My only problem with tamiya gearbox is only its noise, I have greased it but no big improvement.

@@ulungprabowo The noise comes from the difference between plastic injection and metal processing precision. My suggestion, 1. Replace the Hexagonal rod to round rod. 2. Install bearings on drive wheel support. 3. At least install bearing in the front guide wheel and even the rear road wheel. Then the it will run better. The sound from My M60 is like turbo engin while running fast. And the Tamiya gear box on my Tiger 1 is quite.

@@allen8775 Number 1 understood Number 2, did you mean the one that support drive shaft in the sprocket? If so then yes it make sense but sometimes it will be no space left on that area. The only support on my M60 is the eyelet in tamiya gearbox. So yea maybe the number 3 is the option for my M60, but in leopard I think I could make extra support for it. 3. Do you mean the idler wheel? The one that has track tensioner? By the way why is the rear road wheel only and not all road wheel?

@@ulungprabowo 2. Yes, but at least more brass bush there. 3. Yes, Installing bearings on all the wheels is much better, I mean if it is not possible. More friction on wheels which track wrapping on, so it is better have bearings on it.

RX601 & DEVO 7E

Thank you and for the idea of brass roll spring, I might try it in future project.

Thank you. Just do it, and then will get something there.

Thank you!

Thank you!

Thank you, my friend.

Thank you!

Hello, there is not any suspension stopper on the hull, and I didn't make stopper on it. It won't be a problem.

@@allen8775 Ahh okay

Same situation on me, I use the 130-14150 motor to exchange the motors in the Tamiya gearbox kit. I also use N20 gear motor for small tanks such as M5 and M36. but it is hard to control in slow speed. The iner hole of the final gear in Tamiya gearbox is tight to hold the driveshaft, so can insert/pull out from outside.

@@allen8775 I see, I will keep using 130 motor for the next build then. Thank you

Of cause, can use any transmitter/receiver. This receiver is small and cheaper, and it is accepted to set 30 parameters on transmitter for different vehicle, so I don't plan to change it.

@@allen8775 Oh ok thanks!

Hello, @0:54, it is a electrical rotary joint. You can find it on web. What I used is 8mm in diameter and 4,6 or 8 wires.

The top is loose, and has no wires. There's a cog with teeth inside, that's powered by a motor.

Hello, please try to find a 6V and lower RPM motor, the motors in the kit seems 3V. It is hard to control in low speed. I replaced the motors after few months the video posted.

Tension adjustment is designed in every chain transmission system to keep good contack on sprocket, because we can't get the just suitable length for every system. And, slack on the exit side when the chain is running Tank runs on kinds of different roads, so you can find the track is always tight and loose changed. For old tank, most of adjustment by way of screw, such as Tiger, JS-3 and M60(M48). Modern tanks such as Leopard use cylingers so that the tank runs fast on uneven ground, starts and brakes, the idler can react quickly to maintain track tightness. The problem on my Challenger 1 is track being too heavy and sagging. It forces on support rollers and causes some noise, and can not run fast. You might don't need a auto-adjustment if your tanks can run well always, But the track will still be loose due to wear after a long run. So, it would be better to design an adjuster if possible.

@@allen8775 ah I see. So the old tank use screw and most of the time we see it sagging like tiger, KV, JS is because they are moving slowly right? And the modern one using auto tension because they are moving fast. I hope by just running it slowly on obstacles I wont need adjuster, as my scratchbuilding skill is not there yet too. By the way I think I want to make the leopard 2A6 or 2A7 for my next tank in the future, in your opinion is it better to buy tamiya Leopard 2A6 + metal tracks or Meng 2A7 and using its workable track? Both are the same price, but I just afraid that Meng 2A7 track will fail and it is going to be hard to take off the track since it has no pin. Meng 2A7 + metal track will be too expensive for sure. Are you still building tanks?

@@ulungprabowo There is also the issue of front- drive and rear-drive. Auto. tension adjustment should be more suitable for rear-drive vehicles, also because of the slack on the leave side when sprocket runs. About Leopard 2A7, I suggest to try MENG, although I haven't assembled it before, it should be of good quality, and the plastic track is not as fragile as people think, you can take a look at my M1A1 www.youtube.com/watch?v =9WwibUg4-54, It can runs very quickly and smoothly, no question. I am thinking some questions about gun barrel and still have not good solution. And, it is not allow to sit for a long time due to physical problems recently. After these problems are eliminated, there may be new works posted.

@@allen8775 I see, that is really make sense. For the leopard I am kinda happy you choose Meng, because I actually prefer the plastic too, it supposed to curl better to sprocket because the section is like the real one and it doesnt give the unecessary weight, especially it is a modern one, not like a tiger or kv where the sagging effect supposed to be seen. And also plastic sprocket may going to last longer with plastic track than the metal track. And yes your abrams plastic tracks seems sturdy. Maybe I am going to make the leopard suspension semi working, so number 1 and 7 is fixed and number 2-6 is working suspension with a pretension to maybe 40° down and limit the movement just so the wheel number 2-6 will always touch the track on the relatively flat ground. The suspension thing kinda drain my mind a lot, it is tiring because it is so small so we can't really make it last long and adjustable. This morning my suspension bar separated from the plastic and I got to re-glue it. I want to focus on turret works next time not on suspension, i give my time on the model mostly taking care of the suspension parts, makes me never have a time to explore the turret movement or to paint the model 😅 Or maybe you have any suggestion for the glue you use, the most often failed is the fixed side of the torsion bar, the one that it anchored into. Ah I see. Hope you will find the solution and good luck for your build Allen!

Hello,the angle, please be sure the whole wheel shaft appear below the bottom line of the hull when lift the vehicle. And, the wires must be spring wire or piano steel wire(strings).

@@allen8775 okay thank you!

Hello, Tamiya XF-1, draw with a brush on this track. Another way is using metal blackening agent.

@@allen8775 Alright thanks.