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I removed the hose from the pump located behind the bumper on the right side. Then, I used the rear window outlet for an Intercooler Water Spray system. You can use a silicone cap and zip tie to close off the rear window pump nipple so you don't spray fluid if you were to accidentally pull back on the wiper stalk.

Short shifter & upgraded bleeder block

Wondering the same

@@kkelv no, you won't feel a difference, if your car is quiet it may be a very subtle sound difference, but it's purpose is dv/bov relocation and to be able to run higher boost

No we don't have the pipe that goes into the cabin so its a bit easier I have the 2012 mk6 gti

03 golf 2.0 avh, same problem, thank God I saved my hollow core.

That's the way how the Rear threaded Spring Adjuster is fixed to the Control Arm. Most of other brands design their Adjuster for upper location above ther spring (under the body). However here we can see different story.

Pretty easy job you're gonna need either a 10mm or 8mm triple square bit to remove the inner bolts. Not a really hard job. Just have someone to step on the brakes for you. The torque for oem replacement is 70nm or 40nm depending on the triple square size

Definitely bro. Don't want that fluid spraying into your hatch. Thanks for watching 👍

will it not fuck the pump up if u plug that one? ive just deleted mine and removed the motor i plugged the pipe but at the motor end

@@JRH087 did you just plug it or remove it completely ?

@@conorclancy947 I plugged the pipe with a screw and tape and I removed the rear wiper motor completely because I could still hear it going and it annoyed me, I'd like to find the fuse for it and remove that aswell just to save any battery drain from accidentally clicking it on

@@conorclancy947 there is actually a separate pump for the rear from the front water tank so that can also be removed and the hole plugged in the tank giving you a spare pump for the future

Thanks for watching glad you found the video and that it was helpful

Thanks buddy I appreciate it I'll be uploading videos as I go thanks for watching.

Probably 30 minutes to an hour done neatly

No tune required for lunch control, just activate and away you go

Is this happening on one side or both rears

Nm I just noticed it's the right rear my guess is that it could be a bad shock the shocks are OEM replacement so if your original shocks are still good I'd swap out that one and if that fixes the problem then call ECS for a replacement to be sent out. If thats not the issue than it's the spring itself. I know it's a pita to adjust and install but it also could be a failed part. It happens from time to time I hope this helps and sorry for the late response

Ok so in this video I was running a pre tuned ecu from a guy who does his own tunes. It was pre tuned for 2 step and nls I'm not sure which software he uses. I've since gone to a eurodyne stage2+ and with maestro I can adjust the 2 step parameters but I do not have nls on this one. Wot is the only other way to get nls that I'm aware of. I do have the ecu still with the nls. The reason for the change is the eurodyne allows me to change my tune to suit as I introduce and install new parts

@@mygtisfastr hey man! I have a 08 mk5 with some baby mods on the car, if I wanted to go Eurodyne stage2+, what supporting mods would you recommend to keep the car reliable with the power off a tune like that and how much would you guess it would cost to get all the supporting mods together? engine wise, all i have is baby mods like an intake and ecs blow off spacer, and some other tiny things, basically nothing.

@@aaronaguirre3607 before going stage2+ make sure everything is running correctly. Things like the cam follower, spark plugs, coil packs, etc. And all the required maintenance is up to date. Like the timing belt and water pump. Good time to have a look at the timing belt tensioner also. The minimum requirements for Eurodyne stage2+ would be a 3 inch down pipe, upgraded hpfp (apr, Autotech, etc.), & intake. As for pricing the hpfp or (high pressure fuel pump) you can just get the internals for around 300$ - 400$ or a complete replacement like Autotech, APR, or Integrated Engineering ranging from 750$ - 1000$ down pipes can range from no name brands that aren't very expensive for 150$ off Ebay, tbh I've heard they'll do the job. Name brand down pipes are around 400$+. I recommend a full 3 inch turbo back exhaust. A good brand will be over 1k$ but is well worth it. I also put on a neuspeed fmic but there are many options for those ( s3 intercooler, forge twintercooler, neuspeed, mishimoto, etc. ) that'll depend on preference and how much power you intend to have. Also doing aftermarket piping is a good idea. The turbo outlet pipe and throttle pipe will help with airflow. But aren't needed. You can always get in touch with eurodyne or whichever tuner you decide to go with and ask them for the required parts. Hope this was good info for you and thanks for watching.

@@mygtisfastr Thanks for the info, greatly appreciated. Question though, what made you decide to go with stage 2+ from Eurodyne over other companies like APR? Also, are you still using the stock K03, and if so, did you do any maintenance or upgrading to that?

@@aaronaguirre3607 I went with eurodyne because there aren't any local tuners nearby. Eurodyne allows me to make my own adjustments to the tune when I add a mod. This way I don't have to send my ecu out. And I'm currently running a k04 turbo and tune. Before I went past stage2+ I made sure that I did upgraded brakes and suspension to handle the additional power