Video

So glad to hear that!

Me too! I was so glad he mentioned it

I’m sorry I’m not totally certain what you mean but I’m gonna try to answer :) are you referring to off-contact and where to put that on the frame? Some people tape a quarter to the top of their frame and then make sure the frame lands on the top of the platen. In my example, none of the frame hits the platen so that won’t work for me.

@@startupscreenprinting Exactly!😉 I'm glad you understood my question. (Sorry for my English.) But then, if you don't use "off-contact", how do you do it when you lower the frame, so that the ink that is on the mesh doesn't touch the garment before printing?

@adrianurizar I use a piece of cardboard but I’ve also got a feel for how much I need so I don’t always need to use something to measure. Plus with water based printing, off contact isn’t that important

I run it through a 3-stage filtration system first so as long as you’re running through a good system to filter out solids and such it should be fine. Might want to confirm with a plumber or call the team at Ryonet to be sure

So glad it’s working well for you! Your exposure times will be lower for higher mesh. Also exposure for white mesh is typically shorter than yellow mesh.

Also, where do you purchase your 220-230 mesh screens? Thanks again!

@jasontoth247 I get all of my screens from Ryonet ssp.ink/screens

actually it is, looks like the link was redirecting to the paid one instead of the free one, check again

Just select whatever you want, then in the symbols area select new symbol. I’ll cover this in a video soon!

@@startupscreenprinting thank you

Just matched what I saw on screen with a Pantone book I have in the shop to get as close as I could.

I’d say anything that gets hot enough to gel the ink should work just fine.

@@startupscreenprinting thx!

That varies based on the humidity in your room and how long it takes for the emulsion to dry. It should be completely dry before you expose. For me, I let them dry for at least 8 hours. You can speed this up with a dehumidifier or a drying box.

Hmm without knowing your settings and such it’s hard to say. Make sure the correct paper type and size is selected and that the print software is installed and RIP installed if you’re using one. Not sure what else could be going on but I’d start there

I have the same issue. Sometimes 3 or 4 sheets will go through at a time.

@rmw603 I would only load 1 sheet at a time. These types of printers don’t do well at separating film sheets and only pulling one in at a time, so I only put 1 in there, then when it starts printing, I add a second one if I’m printing multiple films.

I got this kit: filmdirectonline.com/copy-of-canon-ix6800-ix6820-completely-black-ink-kit-pgi-250-cli-251-chipset-1/

You replace all colors with all black ink and has to be the new cartridges. Then you just refill them as needed

@@startupscreenprinting Thanks for the response man! I have a few more questions if you don't mind. If I wanted to switch back & forth between colored cartridges & the black cartridges, is it possible? what would the maintenance look like for that?

@avoidclothingco theoretically you could. But the concern would be that the ink leaks out of the cartridges pretty easily when they’re out of the printer after you’ve already installed them so, I think it could be a bit messy if you were switching back and forth. Aside from that, I’m not sure what the repercussions would be for running the different types of ink through the print heads occasionally, I could imagine there would be some leftover once you switched back to color in the cartridge or in the print head so that your colors would be somewhat skewed for the first several prints. Does that make sense? Hope that’s helpful.

​@@startupscreenprinting Very helpful! I assume the print heads would need to be cleaned externally and through the printer settings every time the cartridges are being switched out. 🤔

Once I switched to the dye from film direct, I’ve had zero issues even letting it sit for more than a week, prints like a dream every time

@@startupscreenprinting I did that, I bought the empty pack you sent me on IG ( link) and bought the ink you mentioned in video and still get ink cartridge compatibility’s issues. I must be doing something wrong. Will be messing with it this week.

@Tunagraphix hmm strange, I’ve honestly been surprised at how few issues I’ve had. Maybe reach out to film direct and see if they can help

@@Tunagraphix Did you find a solution to this?

Hey Heather! Nope it doesn’t make it dry faster it only drops the cure temp. And you want to spray the ink itself. If your screen is breaking down it may not be cured enough. Make sure to harden the screen in the sun or post expose it for a few minutes and be sure to use a water based friendly emulsion 😎

All over print can be difficult with screen printing since printing over seams isn’t ideal. Most often sublimation is best for all-over printing. I don’t have any experience with the larger film printers.

@@startupscreenprinting thank you for answering me 🙏 what about the p6000 can I make it print on film positive so if I change the cartridge and add DMAX it’s okay to print like the T3270 Epson? Thanks again for answering my questions 🤝

@moodea3098 you’d have to check compatibility at solutionsforscreenprinters.com or filmdirect.com

Totally agree!

Yup do it all the time. No issues just watch your heat when flashing or curing. Poly can cause dye migration and change colors of the shirt or the ink. If migration issues arise try a dye blocker.

@@startupscreenprinting thx man.

Yes if you enter it here and then click confirm in the first email you get, you will then get the template startupscreenprinting.com/resources/pre-registration-template/

So true! It’s amazing. And it’s also crazy how many retail shirts at stores are printed crooked haha. Never notice till you’re a printer lol

I got lucky, It’s the only one I’ve ever seen at auction.

I got my cartridges and ink from filmdirect.com and it’s great. And printfab has been great for halftones for me, definitely recommend it.

Glad to hear it was helpful!

Small single press straight to an automatic? You’re ready to jump straight to serious business! 🤣

I’m pretty sure the printer is responsible as well, the person ordering from the print shop has to have a release saying they have approval to have it printed and that’s what releases liability on the print sho, but otherwise the shop can be help liable. Definitely worth checking with an attorney for actual legal council. But it’s not worth the risk so always best to be sure.

Yup that’s great, especially for ones that aren’t obvious!

Great I’m glad to hear that!!

It's just a WEN air filtration unit. I have it to try to keep the lint down to a minimum. Not sure it would work well for fumes.

Oh for sure there’s several great options on these and you’re right, none of this is new. This was just first time I’ve used them. Roller frames are similar just different brand and a little different method of stretching, we used a ton of them at the shop I worked at years ago.

I currently use the Canon IP8720 and love it ssp.ink/ip8720

It wouldn’t ruin it but it could thin it too much which could make your ink leak through the mesh. Plus water evaporates faster than clear core you would end up needing to add more and more as the ink continues to thicken as the water evaporates. That’s why adding clear core is best as it thins the ink and will last much longer during high runs so you don’t have to keep adding more while you print.

Actually I’ve swapped to this printer: amzn.to/3WV0cEG The 1430 kept clogging with the BlackMax ink and I finally wasn’t able to fix it. This new printer is way more affordable and readily available so if it breaks I can replace it faster. For ink, I have surprisingly gotten better results lately with a different ink kit from Film Direct: filmdirectonline.com/copy-of-canon-ix6800-ix6820-completely-black-ink-kit-pgi-250-cli-251-chipset-1/ It doesn’t seem to dry/clog the heads like the Blackmax did and it creates a really dark print. I’ve been able to increase exposure times with this ink and I love it so far.

Typically no concerns like you would have with plastisol where you'd have a chance for ghosting when stacking hot shirts. One key is to make sure the shirts have a chance to cool prior to stacking and that's just good practice no matter the print type. With my situation, I hang the shirts up to avoid that but they also have a good amount of time to cool after curing since there are 3 stations between the flash and back to me. If you're using a conveyor and dropping the shirts into a box straight out of the oven, then you probably shouldn't leave them in there too long. A lot of shops will put a fan at the end of the dryer to cool the shirts quickly before they drop into a box. The bigger shops have a longer section of conveyor after the oven to allow for cool time. If you are like me and not using a conveyor, you can add a fan blowing air onto the stations after the flash to cool the shirts before you pull them off and stack them.

Yeah it lowers cure temp no matter how you heat it so it will certainly help

Sam’s club. Seville Classics is the brand. The cabinets, ink station work table, and all my other tables are all from them

Nice!

Yes, you'll need to add it to every color you are using

@@startupscreenprinting do you flash between colors ? im getting a tacky print sometimes

@P0TKILLS yeah if you’re doing an underbase then yeah you’ll need to flash. Just do one layer of underbase and also give the print time to cool before printing the next color cause if it’s hot you will get sticking

Happy to help!

What would be better information other than the stellar bit you just gave would be a download for that registration card you have 😊

@shawnwalters641 shop.startupscreenprinting.com/products/on-press-registration-template 👀😎

Thanks

Thanks!

Thanks Brent! If you try them let me know what you think!

⁠ will do!

Thanks!

Welcome! Their stuff is really so good. Thanks for subscribing!

Thank you!

👍

So glad it was helpful!

You are correct in that water based inks can dry in the screen, but it does not happen rapidly. You would have to leave it for a few hours, even days, for it to get to a point to where you couldn't get it back out. I've left it in the screen for more than an hour and I was able to come back to it and keep printing.

@@startupscreenprinting That’s helpful. Thanks.

yeah the point with image trace is to get clean, vector artwork from something that's low quality. If your TIFF file is black, then you're good to go and no real need to convert to vector.

Yes, it's been working great. Every bit as good as the Artison 1430. Make sure you get a good all-black ink system and RIP software. Just to be sure, this is the one I have ( Canon Pixma IP8720 amzn.to/3PgN60j ) and I have PrintFAB RIP

Yes, Green Galaxy has 4cp water based inks available: ssp.ink/af4

ssp.ink/course

Honestly my favorite shirt and my most popular is the Bella+Canvas 3413 Triblend

@@startupscreenprinting Thank you so much Jessie

@@startupscreenprinting Jessie, I forgot to ask if you had a favorite Hoodie too ? I want to offer a Hoodie option with or without a zipper. Thank you again !!!

@@ThoseDaysMovie My current fav hoodie is the Sprot-Tek ST272 from SanMar. It's a really nice french terry, so it's great year round. A lot of my customers like the Bella+Canvas 3719 hoodie and it also comes in a zip hoodie that's really nice.

@@startupscreenprinting thank you so much Jessie !!