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Only 208.00 for that cooler from Summit. 😮.

I am glad i found your videos on this build! You saved me a lot of time! Im doing the exact same thing as you, just a K20. l spent a whole week trying to fit oem and aftermarket sheetmetal, and at best, its a 6.5 out of 10. But in my experience, thats a 10 lol. Ive done others with similar results. I don't know how it could even be, but even with the left door slid back all the way, and 1/8 inch shims under the hinge, it still doesn't come back far enough. I ended up filling in the rear door frame to close gap to an acceptable amount! OEM door even. I might get mine done before yours! 😅

I'm so glad lmc is only an hr away lol

So I'm gonna assume that you did a complete delete and not just the front. The delete kit from the website allows you to keep air shocks in the back but still have to delete the magnaride.

Iput 17 on mine cheaper tires wheels i bought new not in the hood

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Welcome back, it's been a while, you're doing a good job. I've gotten my Duramax rebuilt and running good. Your engine build video was a good resource.

a 110Volt fan you can use if known as a Muffin fan used in computer servers. , Put into a cake pan the size of the cooler to blow through the cooler , a coil in the line helps with vibration induced cracking in the line

I've recently installed the heat exchanger identical to yours. Funny enough, my first project is a 77 k10. Any tips/ suggestions before teardown?

Still first!

If you want bone dry air you must run your air tru a A/C dryer (not the silica bottle) Your intercooler Air Cooler inside a A/C BOX

A little Sil Glyde or Red & Tacky never hurts. I put that stuff on everything! 😁

Awesome glad you got it

First!

Prime 1st or shoot a light mist n see if it reacts

As long as u got material Keep trying!

This is rad, very well done! None of the other videos I’ve seen have gone into the extension shaft assembly properly! Incidentally I forgot my snap ring at the synchro on my last attempt somehow and trashed a couple things so your video has been hugely helpful for seeing what parts I need

First

Would those shocks fit a 2015 tahoe ppv?

Awesome build . I got a 77 c20 I’m rebuilding the entire front suspension and steering components now . I got a 467 built by mark jones and tremec tkx 5 speed . I’m not doing as in depth rebuild as you are but doing a full mechanical rebuild . I painted my frame with Eastwood rust encapsulater . Thanks for the video

Excellent series!! Following this build as template for my ratish rod idea. Picked up an LBZ yesterday still have a lot to figure out lol.

What engine stand are you using with that DMAX?

Did you do a video on rebuilding the Allison, would like to see that.

I have a c20 im doing a 4x4 swap

Refrigerated cooler works ,600 bucks and you eliminated all that stuff

What kind of flare nuts did you use? My compressor uses 3/4” OD copper tubing. I ordered 3/4” OD flare nuts off Amazon and my connection points are 3/4” NPT and they do not match up.

Could you put the hole conversion together as a drop in to send to Australia cheers

You could of bought a dryer that works for the money n time you waisted

Ready for many more miles of abuse! Well done!

thank you for posting this.. best video out there

First!

😎 Bill is the bondo king you know? he should come help 😂 😝

So I made essentially this same setup, same IR compressor as well(175psi). But instead of running a single filter after the Derale radiator I ran a 3 stage Nanpu set from Amazon. Filter, coalescing then desiccant dryer then into the tank. Within 3 seconds of turning it out the 1st filter stage of the Nanpu blew apart. Looks like three of the metal lugs holding the bowl cannister on had just sheared off. The cannister flew down and smashed into the floor with all the plastic parts busting everywhere. Dented the metal cannister also and a small piece of something had flown by my head. I think it was one of the lugs. My first thought was that the nanpu, which I'm sure is cheap chinese pot metal, had a stress fracture in it. My second thought was that having all three stages inline created to much back pressure and the 1st stage gave way. I am using 1/2" NPT so the lines are big enough. It was probably a combo of those two items. My goal was to have the air as dry as possible going into the tank. But when I replumb it I think I'll go with just a 1st stage filter/regulator and put the coalescing and desiccant filters after the tank. Also, posted this as a warning to anyone else trying it. Take precautions when starting it up the first time with any modifications, like turning it on from the break far away from the compressor! ha.

liked and subbed....great job brother!!! i have been hunting for quality filter for ages...

those trucks have maybe 3.08 gears , they are not towers ............ with 32" tires they should have at least 3.73 axle gears to be able to pull

Transmissions have sure changed since the 60's. I rebuilt Aluminum Power Glides, Torque Flights, C4's and other simple transmissions. Cost was $250.00 ea. and I normally did 2 everyday. Great Video....

First!

I wish you could have been a bit more through about wiring the power supply. Did you wire in both “Line” outputs and switch the power supply to 220V?. I ask because the Power supply is marked “line” and “neutral” and a 240v circuit that would power a compressor does not have a neutral.

For anybody wondering, the Duramax weighs about 1000lbs with all accessories, and the Allison 1K weighs about 350lbs, so combo weighs about 1300-1400 lbs. A Small block & automatic weighs about 760lbs all together. Getting ready to put an LMM/1K combo into my wife's 80 Suburban, nice work!

Ready to see some more videos on the duramax. Where ya been

Do you have a link to the connectors used with the aluminum fuel line? Would I lose a lot of cooling using a 1/2" air compressor hose instead of the aluminum tubing?

bring on episode 2!

Great video! Will you please help me figure out the connections to the head and tank. I saw in a previous comment you used compression fittings. I have watched many videos on after coolers and can’t seem to figure out these connections. Some used compression and some use flare etc. I guess what I need to know is what type of threads are on the head and tank. Is it common pipe thread? I am looking at buying a 5HP 60 gal dewalt. If the head and the tank inlet is female pipe thread then it should be easy enough to get a male pipe thread to compression fitting. Am I on the right track? Thank you for the great video and your help!

First?

What about drying the air before it enters the compressor.

Have a 2016 escalade. I used the warranty I bought to fix thr shocks 3 times, all 4. Now my rears, which always seem to go first, have started up. Now my warranty is up and I want to put a 4-4.5 inch lift that won't push out my front wheels.

What fuel system is this?

Can you provide more information on the mag delete upfront? Did the system still work in the rear? I don’t want lights on in the dash..

Great Video. Is the little arm that moves the unison ring supposed to be hard to move by hand?

Super informative video man. Thanks!