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Good stuff, Paul. Always good when we see a bit of Paul Apps the Artist on the Sandling channel. There's so much scope for cross fertilisation from artists to model railways (though probably not as much the other way!) Worth remembering that the real world (whether the world world or the platform down your local station) is never perfect either, and there's probably a bloke in a hi-viz jacket looking at his work on a platform going "I could have done that better," though he's more likely to say "nah, sod it, I'm off to the pub. It's good enough."

Loving this series, Paul! It is great to see you working your artistic magic on your diorama board. I think I am pretty good at weathering but you never stop learning with this wonderful hobby of ours. As can be seen from your other channel, you are a gifted artist - I wish I could bring a scene to life from an image in my mind, but we don’t all have the same skills, do we?! I think perhaps you are being overly modest when it comes to describing your abilities, but such modesty should be applauded. Looking forward to seeing the diorama progress. You are inspiring me to consider a small shunting diorama of my own! Keep up the good work! Best wishes from Wirral.

Thank you for demonstrating the fine level of detail level of detail shown here. I look forward to seeing the layout as you progress.

You are an artist well we know you are but in this series it shows. More like this please.

good vid nice work thanks lee

Have a look at DCC Concepts power point alignment dowels. They might help with aligning your liftout bridge and also with powering it.

Good on you What a great shot you did walking through

Hi Paul. Lovely to see your new layout coming along so well. Regarding securing the lift out I would echo what man others have said which is to use Brass Dowels. I have used them before quite a number of times as my initial layout was totally modular in it was essential that every board line up perfectly when reassembled. Also although I know you are not keen on Clamps but I plan on using some small adjustable toggle clamps to secure them down hidden underneath the layout. Still whatever you decide, keep on with it and happy modelling 😁

Alignment dowels plus a couple of mini magnets each end could well sort it

A simple alignment set up would be to use two pairs of baseboafd alignment dowels as supplied by Station Road Baseboards (Not Julian) supplied via the eBay at a cost of £2.40 + £1.80 postage for 4 pairs, I would place two pairs, fitting into the surport section on the horizontal, being you say, you, cut the track a little too close to the board edge. The other two pairs fitted in the verticle at the opposite end, thus ensuring positive alignment each and every time. Then to stop any movement of lift untill intended, fit a couple of neodendium magnets also into the end where the dowels are inserted in the verticl. I have used the said items on my modular built layout, and fully recommend them, I dont have any affiliation with the gentleman other than, that. of a satisfied customer, Glenn,

Hi Paul, you could put magnets on the under side and then magnets in the ends to make sure they line up at each end. <Anita>

Hi Paul, I think the easiest solution for securing the bridge would be to insert a 7mm dowel on each side of the tracks at each end of the bridge. Drill 2 holes each end through the bridge into the timber ledge to a depth of about 18mm after clamping the bridge. Glue the dowels into the bridge from the top then trim and sand any protrusion on the top. this will secure the bridge so it doesn't have any side movement then fix a cupboard spring lock clasp underneath at each end which will stop any up and down movement. Once done which should be a very simple procedure you will only need to put your hand underneath the bridge to release the clasp. Hope this suggestion is useful, regards Alan

Re the droppers, I would get some red & black heat shrink tubing and effectively re colour the droppers to the correct colour, i.e. red heat shrink on the offending black droppers and black heat shrink on the offending red droppers. Re your lift off section, you could use some neodymium magnets on the underside of the lift off section to hold it down and DCC Concepts do a locating dowel kit that can de used to ensure the rails align correctly. I think it also can pass track power through the dowel pins

I see those two diesels in the storage area will soon be trundling through Kent, pulling cement trains up to Rugby in the Midlands.

Don't get the black to the back because it changes when going round a curve unless you turn with it , In my opinion its a stupid way to explain it , Maybe I'm wrong

Ideally you want the registration and clamp system working before laying the track so you can ensure the track aligns correctly. A system of dowels/holes and clamp/clips or bolts/wingnuts should work. Or bolts that you might use on a door. Edit: search for hook lock clip.

How about using a gate lock underneath. Small enough that they do not take too much.

Countersink 4 bolts through the top only small ones glue them in and put wing nuts on the bottom

Glad I helped with the wiring :) What about some cheap door Bolts for keeping the section square?

Bit by bit you are getting there. Love the cameras, they should make a real difference to knowing whats where. I was going suggest clamps on your lift out, but I understand what you are after. My only real suggestion is to talk to DCC Concepts they do registration gadgets. Whether theyll be invisible is another matter. 😊

Hi just off subject a bit Im wondering if you are still weathering Locos for people as i have 2 that i would like professionally done

Thanks Paul that made a big difference to the main Sandling layout congrats! to you.

Hi Paul . the cam set is on Amazon iI have the same set myself comes with all you need for two cam and monitor.

Multibao Reversing Camera Kit，4 Pin 2x Waterproof 18LEDs Night Vision Reverse Rear View Camera with 2x Aviation Cables +12-24V 7" TFT LCD Car Monitor for Large Truck/Bus/RV/Trailer/Tractor/camper 3.6 out of 5 stars 17 £69.98 One-Day FREE delivery Tomorrow, 10 Jul Only 3 left in stock. Add to basket

Very interesting video, as too is the magnificent progress on Sandling Junction. Oh, and I'm learning a lot from your mistakes.......which is basically the only way to learn when it comes to creativity. Thanks so much.

Ya should add some oo gauge Peco code 75 concrete track

Like the idea of these extra videos showing your talents.

I think it is fascinating the way different modellers use a variety of methods and materials, and techniques to construct stations and other line side accessories, and make them look very realistic. This clearly demonstrates attention to detail, and learnt through previous experience.

Hi Paul enjoyed this video so thanks for sharing, when using glues like rocket glue I run through the tips a very fine strip of copper wire (steel wire can rust) and wipe away any excess glue and make sure caps are firmly in place.👍

Re: rocket card glue fine tip applicators, remove it and quickly to run warm water through to stop it blocking up at the end of your session. Also i trim it back slightly with a craft knife if the end gets gnarly, so it should last a while, certainly not a one use item. You can also buy a pack of extra adapters as well. It’s a great product for fine work.

Nice 40k collection

What a crystal clear explanation this video is! Many thanks.

Wow fantsic build well done

Thanks for the update, Paul. No idea about cameras. A German channel I watch did what you want (Erzgebirgs-Moba episode 011) but the Amazon link he gives to the kit he used is showing as unavailable, but searching Amazon for surveillance cameras->bullet cameras throws up some alternatives. Bit spendy though for complete systems, though individual cameras seem reasonable if you have the ability to link it all up to a monitor yourself. I think Dave on Dean Park also installed CCTV in his hidden sidings, so might be worth a look? Regarding your liftout bridge: 1) Good idea on the protective cover for the ends. Maybe on the bridge too? As you say, easy to knock up out of scraps of wood, but I wonder if there are any U-shaped plastic profiles available that would provide a neater (and ultimately less work) solution? 2) Tillig points (available from DCC Concepts [no affiliation]) might be worth a look, as they can be gently bent into a shallow curves. Alternatively, it is possible to modify Peco points, e.g.in your case, you could gain a few millimetres by removing the end sleeper(s), where the double slip and points meet.

I use a car reversing camera and screen for my storage aera,now have 2 cameras for one four inch screen for £25

If you haven't glued down the track across the lift-out section yet, cut them in half before you do and put rail joiners in the centre of the tracks. If you don't do this, and solder a single rail at both ends, there's nowhere for any thermal expansion/contraction to go. You may see kinks in the track, or the solder joints failing.

On many old steam lines, the railway would include single direction yards. For a start it would reduce the number of points, and frequently remove the need for a headshunt. A train would start at the main junction and proceed "down" the line servicing all of the "down yards". When it reached the more comprehensive facilities at the other end of the line, the train would be reversed and it would proceed back "up" the line, servicing all of the "up yards". On low frequency lines, the main would be used as a shunting storage line, but higher frequency would entail an additional shunt line off the main, so the goods could be handled safely without impeding other traffic. In most cases you would not have a "yard locomotive", but instead use the freight locomotive to make all of the freight moves - this also eliminates the need for a yard locomotive servicing facility, and the need to have coal/diesel deliveries to all of the yards on the line! (and it's just cheaper to not have an expensive locomotive and crew stationed at a low use yard).

Have you considered banking the track on your curved section - Cheers Paul keep up the good work

Talk to Charlie of Chadwick model railway. Ask about ir search for in his videos anbout m10 surface mounted sw. Machines, and then you can mount switches ( points ) , on the bridge.

Great update. The 'hoover' is just what I've been looking for!

Another great video Paul, can I ask how the 2x1 frames are holding up? I've seen everything from 4x2, 3x2 used but they look overkill to me? Also, are you using 9mm or 12mm Ply?

Paul, I went back and looked at New Sandling Junction again just to go through the baseboard build again. I've noticed that the frames look to be built with 2x1, how are they holding up? I've chstted to lots who have used 3x1, 4x1 etc and just seems to me to be over engineered, also what Ply are you using, is it 9mm or 12mm ?

An excellent update. The geometry does look challenging, however I admire your patience, and I look forward to seeing the progress of the layout. I think it will look very interestingspacialy when it is finished, as different levels will also allow the layout to blend in with the landscape.

Thanks Paul, always good to see your updates and to hear your thoughts for improving the tracks. Looking forward to seeing the next one x

Pity there was no sign of any trains running where they could, even with some Alligator clips for power, but we must remember it is your layout, you will be running trains on it the way you wish, The Bridge needs some boards to have the the End of the Tracks soldered and the the power supply underneath with a Trailer Plugs.

I have enjoyed the video. I have Empathy with you, track joining for the complexed Ideas would give me sleepless nights. Overall your Ideas for the lift out section are good, but I'd take the the three points nearer to the edge of the main board giving the shortest track to the bridge/lift out section as possible, by fitting the three points in their place first, it would be better to have them nowhere near the support batterns.

Buy what "Dean Park" bought they looked good .

Yes Very Good.

good update on layout keep up the work lots do on the layout nice track work

Just make the bridge 1/2" longer at each end so that the joint is 1/2" in from the edge !