Video

You got this!

$480 for rear and sliding door as we set up in this video… amzn.to/3YwIBDR

Glad to help. This video is a couple years old now and there may be other lower base options on the market. But after installing the Scopema on a few client builds I will say they are a premium product and I can definitely recommend them. All the best!

We have never had issues with bugs getting in the bottom, even when there is some light coming from there. There is actually an explanation from Van Essential about how this isn’t a problem because bugs vision doesn’t work in that way. I’m not sure if any of the other brands on the market have a solution to this. It might just be more annoying with some form of closure there. You could always explore magnet options or Velcro in a couple spots.

Very good question, it was a struggle for sure. Mainly eyeballing. I suppose left to right (driver to passenger side of the van) you could use a small level on the bottom of it. But front to back you cannot because the floor isn’t level with the van slopping to the front. I did my best to show my process for everything I did through my build, mistakes in all. I’m sorry I don’t have a better answer for you.

Glad to have you! Hopefully more content to come!

How do you mean? It was a reason I did not like the DiscountVanTruck products

The models before the X line didn’t have regulated outputs and needed adaptors but we’ve not had any issues with our 12v system. We feed from the Anderson port to a 12v Blue Sea fuse block. We power two Maxxair fans, a shurflo water pump, Iceco cooler style 45 L fridge, Webasto Airtop 2000stc heater, numerous LED lights. We also have AC outlets running from the 120v side. Plug other electronic items into the usb ports for charging (Garmin watch, bike computer, GoPro batteries). All has worked great with no issues. What model do you have? And GZ may replace if the port is somehow faulty

Due to this issue we put up some stainless rings on our roof rack that are easy to clip to. Not sure if you have another option for attachment but I’ll agree wind is a pain with the magnets. We are still very happy with ours years later

Some frequencies of led lights will flicker on camera, you won’t see it with your eyes in person. Maybe this is what you are asking about?

@@Trailvagabonds Possibly. Just got my van & I can't figure out how to turn mine on & off. LOL!

Oh, haha. If there’s a dimmer switch and it’s turned too low sometimes you can see a flicker. But can’t be certain. If you are seeing it in person, not on camera, it can also be a bad connection in the wires that cause it to flicker. This can be dangerous so I hope you find the switch to start diagnosing if it’s just a dimmer on low. If I can help in some way looking at photos or something, let me know. You could always message me on instagram or FB

@@Trailvagabonds Thanks so much. I don't use social media (unless you count CZcams.) Mine doesn't flicker, I just saw it on your vid. I got mine from Vanworks and will contact them today to see if they will help explain things to me.

@@k9luv3 good to hear. Hope you get everything figured out and have many awesome adventures with your new campervan!

I’m not sure exactly what you mean. There is an opening that goes around the door closure mechanism. It then has a magnet cover to go over any opening that’s there. I’ll have to look at it again if I’m missing something. Please clarify if I didn’t answer what you were asking, I might be missing something.

@@Trailvagabonds you answered perfectly! I thought the magnet went to close the gap between the door latches, but just wanted to make sure. Thanks for the help 🙂

No worries! All the best!

Thanks for the comment! Glad it could be useful. Cheers!

Thanks for the info! I didn’t know the names. Do you live in the area?

Yes near by and use the southern part of the trail more often! The observation deck is no longer there unfortunately

@@davedaggit8162 nice! We’ll be staying with Katie’s parents in Tomahawk for a bit. Let me know if you’d want to get out for a ride!

I ended up pulling a little extra slack in that corner. It’s definitely not that fun to work around it and was a bit of a pain if I remember right. With the extra slack it allowed it to appear to sit flat and aligned. A little trial and error

Ours have jumped in pushing it out of the way, no problem

It is not. You could always add magnets or something if you’re worried. We haven’t had bugs get in due to it that we’ve noticed

I actually put a brass connector on the end of the Camco drain and use a garden hose quick connect to the grey tank so it’s easy to remove when I need to empty the tank. I used to have a different quick connect setup that didn’t end up working

My thought is it has something to do with the draw. I’m guessing that maybe there is a heat up cycle that takes longer than the surge can handle above the 1500w max output. But I’m not an electrician or certified with Goal Zero in any way. I would contact their customer support. They are normally very good when I’ve contacted them. Or contact your heat bond irons manufacturer to see if they can tell you if there is a larger draw when it’s starting up. Sorry I can’t help more but I wish you luck!

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Yep, the doors will close when they are in place or even if they are rolled up as long as you don’t have a cabinet pushing the roll out against the door too much. They’ve worked great for us and I haven’t had a need to remove them through winter. Definitely can recommend!

@@Trailvagabonds thank you! Will definitely pick these up in the next few weeks! Great video

@@BrandonG1394 no problem! Glad to help. Definitely reach out if you have other questions. All the best!🙌🏼

The connection for your 12v fuse panel? I’m not sure if that’s what you mean but I plug that into the HPP port. There is one on the front side (red/black connector) or under the lid to power 12v. If you meaning something else you’ll have to be more specific. Hope that helps!

I tried first with a utility knife but found that the knife on my Leatherman worked much better. Definitely dulls the blade cutting over/onto wood underneath the foam but was super clean.

The 3000x is about 70 lbs

Goal Zero is a great option. They just release updated power stations with better batteries, faster charging options, and more powering options. Definitely a company worth checking out for their products

The 3000x is a Li-ion. Their new 4000 Pro is a LiFePO4 however. As for plugging in- You could wire the 2 inputs into a transfer switch that can then always be plugged into the GZ so that you don’t have to switch cords. Not sure if there would be another safe option outside of that. If you find something different, let me know.

Thanks for the quick reply@@Trailvagabonds

@@wjess3569 no problem. Let me know if you have other questions on anything. I’ve install manual transfer switches on a couple client vans in the past for this application. Never an automatic one which would be very cool. I don’t know enough about auto ones to recommend one though

The main concern was losing headspace. But I also read that floor insulation didn’t do a ton to keep the cold at bay, no matter what the floor is cold. So I went with this method that DIY Van recommended and saved the bit of head room. I’ve been happy with the decision but can’t speak to how much different the Havelock wool would be in terms of added warmth at the floor.

Hello Lucy, I just tested it myself and it is still active. I hope you can get it to work because money saved in a build is always important! The code is “TRAILVAGABONDS”

We do have a lip in our van but I don’t know that it was needed. Depending on cabinets and even the type of mattress used (some of the memory foam ones are very heavy) it would probably stay in place just fine. We built a cabinet to the ceiling on the drivers side and have a plywood wall we tiled on the passenger side so the lip in the middle wasn’t needed. Just another note on it, if you build the lip too high it’s a hard surface to roll your knee or shin over which isn’t fun. We haven’t noticed this being an issue with how low ours is but it could be a problem. All that to say we’ve never had the mattress move in a quick stop.

Unless you are plugging in, no. You need a very large battery bank for an A/C unit. They are energy intensive. 12v units that are said to be more efficient normally run at 50-80 amps, which is too large for the GZ 12v max output of 30A

Nice! I hear they are great systems too

You can leave the solar plugged in but the system prioritizes the larger charge I was told my GZ so it will only accept the alternator charging in such a situation

@@Trailvagabonds That's nice. I wonder if there is a way to combine them or if that isn't a thing. I appreciate the time and effort you put into this video and your rig. Thanks for replying!

@@ryhu4755 I’m not sure. Maybe a question for GZ. I do know their new 4000 Pro can take in more solar than the X line. It has many more ports and updated battery tech so maybe worthwhile to look at that too

The key is to have it always sloping down so that water vapor can escape. If you have it travel back up hill there is a chance the water will condense and turn into ice inside the exhaust pipe and then it will plug up. It’s important to have it always traveling downwards. If you can locate the muffler closer to the heater and travel a short distance after the muffler to not have to travel up again, they would be ideal. I don’t have an exact idea of where it is located under you vehicle but I do understand the concern of it being hit or pulling off

@@Trailvagabonds yeah, the way it's mounted now, it's always down slope. But, with the new changes I'm doing, the exhaust will have to be moved, and it will be filling down and back up. Like a U shape. Unfortunately, no way around it :/ Not sure if drilling that hole on the lowest end will be enough

The gasket provided with the base plate is the vapor block per Webasto’s specifications. There should be no other way for vapor to come back into the vehicle. We’ve always used a CO detector to make sure we don’t have vapor intrusion and it’s never gone off so I feel very good about the companies product

sorry for the late response. But you’re exactly right. The fuse block is fed 12v power and then acts as the distribution to all 12v appliances each circuit is then protected by a specific fuse for its amperage needs.

I hope it was helpful! Sorry for the late reply, we were traveling. Let me know if you have other questions. I did just respond to one of your other comments too.

I thought that is what I explained. The main difference is you can use a Yeti link so expansion and car charging are available on 1000x but as you said no WIFI