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While I agree with you that insulation is the better approach all-around, I also plan to blow insulation into the attic, and I’d rather get the fan installed without dealing with the insulation everywhere

Awesome! I will say to be careful with the pipe stands though. They say they’re rated to something like a ton and a half, but I wouldn’t trust mine with that much if I’m under it. I’m sure there are beefier ones out there, and they’d be worth paying a little more if you’re going to be working under the car. Let me know how it goes!

@evansmessygarage I've ordered 2.5 tonne ones. I have lots of safety backups, too. Thanks!

@Simonstunell1974 nice. I think mine say they’re 1.5T each, but once I had them in hand, the construction just didn’t give me a ton of confidence

That’s exciting! You think you’ll make videos of the process? It’s always interesting to see how you adapt to a different workspace, I’m curious to see how this one works out

I think it was on other videos, but I did have the frame and rocker level and parallel to each other. That said, the 67 FB didn’t originally come with a torque box on the passenger side, and I know it has been in at least one accident in its lifetime, and possibly work or replacement of the rocker, so it wasn’t too surprising to me to find the torque box needed a little modification to fit in there.

Glad it was interesting! One of these days I might repeat it then leave it outside to see how it holds up in the elements

@@evansmessygarage maybe a biyearly video. If it for 10 years?

That could make one heck of a time lapse! The original test went to the scrap yard before the move, but I’ll see about doing a better test again

Thanks! Yeah, probably overkill, but it’s fun! I’ll soon be working on things that will be more visible, so hopefully I can strike a balance between making progress and worrying about details

Isn’t everything on amazon now?! 😂

I haven’t seen those in person yet, but good to have feedback on them! I think once I get up there and see what things look like I’ll have a better idea of what I’m doing

Thanks! Yeah I’m thinking if the walls need insulation then I’ll just blow everything in. But if they’re already insulated (doubtful), then something cleaner up above. Only the long side of the garage has attic over it, so that’s where it’ll be easier to install lights. Since everything is accessible and insulation-free, running the in-ceiling lights should be a one weekend project (I hope), plus I have several lights still from my last garage I can use. On the short side, that’s more tricky since I can’t access from above, so that might just be surface mounted or a couple runs of light. But it’s also where I’m less likely to be working so that should be fine. But first is the shelves so I can get everything out of the way and do some work!

We’re back in CO, where I originally picked up the car. Everything is going about as well as moving goes - but hopefully it’ll be quite some time before I have to do it again 😂 The car is in storage right now, and I’ve seen it’s in a good location. Fingers crossed in the next few weeks I can have shelves built and look at getting it back!

It was definitely hit (maybe more than once!), there’s definitely wrinkling on the passenger apron and possibly some transfer to the floor. Maybe the same or different caused the issues in the wheel well too. I just assumed floor work was done before poorly but that could be it. Thanks! I try to show the things I’d be interested in seeing - maybe not what everyone is into, but I love seeing all the nitty gritty details!

Nice, that sounds like an awesome space you’re creating! The jury is still out if the new garage will be an upgrade or not, but for sure all other aspects of the move are looking that way! I’ll for sure keep you posted as it goes forward

Haha! Someone got it for me as a gift and I love it!

Off the top of my head, I know they’re 15” rims, but I don’t remember the width tire size. I know they’re not staggered. If I forget once everything is moved in, please remind me!

Hey! Haha, I think you’re right, the only way to get it truly clean is to move 😂. It was definitely a cross-country move, otherwise I would have just gotten a UHaul trailer and done it myself. But long distance, best to call in the professionals. I think I’ll actually be further away from NJ…and I wasn’t close before

@@evansmessygarage Understood my friend, calling in an "air strike" for the car shipping, was a gift, to your self !!!! If I had the means, I too would get as far away from the "Soviet republic" of NJ myself !!!!! God bless, on the move, I wish smooth sailing on the "nesting" in your new local.. Take care...

It does feel like moving backwards…but if I’m being optimistic, there are some things that I learned about the engine and transmission install that I’d definitely do differently if it were a final installation. So let’s look at it as a practice run!

Yep, when it goes back in, I’m for sure going to use a leveler and put the transmission and engine back as one. Time and schedule necessitated I get it in quickly this time. I might remove the separately. A lot of corners were cut by whoever worked on this car in the past - it’s a little scary. I’m guessing someone was either doing a quick flip or needed to sell quickly. I’ll definitely be looking into cross-member options as well when we get to that point!Luckily this time, it’ll only be stored for a few weeks rather than the 7 years I stored it last time! Thanks!

Thanks! It’ll be a lot less time in storage this go around! I’ll keep you updated on progress, but I might be slow making the videos with everything going on!

@@evansmessygarage- Understood, hope it goes well.

Hey there! You didn’t miss anything, I just don’t usually go too in depth about me on here. Moving for work, and to be closer to family. Overall I think it’ll be a net positive, but moving is always a pain. But it should only be a few weeks until we’re back in the garage making a mess again!

Thanks! I actually could have saved myself some time and money if I had fully dug in before deciding on a path for the floor. Lesson hopefully learned for later!

Haha, thanks! I’ve for sure been having fun with the thumbnails

Thanks so much! I’m feeling much better now, and still working backwards getting everything back in it. I’ll be back at it soon!

Oh, I’ll finish it! It’s just gonna take a little longer than planned. I’m moving backwards right now, but that’s all right, soon enough we’ll be rockin and rolling again!

Great info, this makes sense given the other drain points on the car. It would have been nice to at least start with an original car to see the details of how it was put together

Good to know!

Thanks! I agree, it’s really just a good feeling knowing I didn’t have any serious problems and it just looks so much nicer sitting there

Thanks for stopping by! I’ll be back at it as soon as I can

Vacation was amazing! With fitment, I think everything stayed where the jacks were, but always possible the floor shifted…or maybe I’m overthinking! We’ll see how things play out, but it might be a couple months before any meaningful progress again, really not sure how things will play out. But I’m working on lining up the driver side, so at least one more video in the works!

Well I stand corrected. I dug up the bottle and sure enough it does say that. Thinking back to when I used it many years ago, I’m pretty sure it didn’t have that in the instructions. I wonder if they changed it or if I’m not remembering correctly

I love when folks show the whole process, even when things don’t go perfect - I’ve learned so much more from watching folks tackle problems than when everything goes right! So I try to do the same when I run into issues or screw up

I guess good first questions are if you already have the firewall in place and if it’s staying, and I’m assuming you have a two-piece torque box or plan to separate it before installing. If so, I’d start with the upper panel, get that fit up and make sure everything lines up and weld it in first (if firewall is staying, then putting it behind the flange will be much easier!). Then you can treat the insides and move on to the lower. I treated all the interior metal with primer, which is more than they did at the factory. You can additionally use paint or other products. I think cutting the hole in the top that big isn’t necessary, maybe a small one if you wanted to spray something like paint or frame coater in there. If you have a two-piece there’s no issue treating everything as you go. My only concern with closing up the bottom holes is if your cowl/firewall start leaking down the road, it could potentially pool inside the torque box without any way for it to drain out, then you’re back to square one and then probably have frame damage as well. If you wanted to close everything up, maybe having a drain hole and plug is a good idea - kind of like what’s on the floor supports? When I get to sealing up the bottom, I’ll evaluate how much I want to fully close things up. I might close up the holes towards the wheel well (where you’re more likely to get splashes), but leave the gap at the rear, I’m not sure yet. Let me know how you end up approaching it!

In hindsight, it may have fit better with it going behind. The assembly manual had it in front, so that’s how I put it, but it might not have been best. I would guess that either should give you about the same strength, but I’m not sure. A third option is something that Barry (Joe Daddy’s Garage) did with his 69 CJ build, and that’s put a “joggle” in the upper torque box plate so the flange goes behind, but the plate is flush with the frame rail (not in front or behind - if that makes sense). This would avoid having to bend the firewall to fit up against it too. If I were going to do it again, that’s what I’d do. If you have trouble finding that video, I can see if I can post a link if you want, he did a great job with it.

Here’s that video I was referencing: czcams.com/video/dQz4oAVWzP0/video.htmlsi=8eySnEag5Y5mtLLQ He gets into it about 2 mins in, but the whole thing is worth watching. Don’t know if I’d bend it like he did, or cut and re-weld it up, but regardless I really like his approach. His is a 69, but it should work the same for your 65 and my 67.

Yeah good observation, and there are other gaps that ford apparently designed into some places like the frame rail bottom edge. I’ve heard that they are there as drain holes, so if water does get in, it has somewhere to go instead of just sitting and rusting things out. That said, if water doesn’t get in in the first place, you shouldn’t have to worry about it, right? 🤷‍♂️ I suppose it’s inevitable that some water will eventually get somewhere, but with everything treated now vs bare steel from the factory, maybe it’s not as big of a deal. I figure once I get closer to wrapping up the major structural work, I’ll do more research before finishing up underneath and see what I try to close up vs keep open. Sorry I don’t have a good answer for you!

Hey Michael, it came with a small block ford with a 1980 block and 67 heads. It’s very low compression and I haven’t opened it up to see if it’s a 255 or a 302 - that will determine if I put any money into this block or not. It also has a 1969 FMX that leaks like a sieve. I’ll probably keep it an auto (since it’s an original GTA), but might get an AOD or similar

@@evansmessygarage if it's a 255 , I won't put money into it either. Fmx,s a good trany but super heavy and aod,s are fetching crazy money around here.i took me about 18 months to find a good core c4 to build. Some of that was me being picky.

Back when it last ran (~9 years ago), the shifts were iffy, and it was sluggish. The lack of power and low compression could be the heads, or it could be the block, I think only way to tell is pulling a head and seeing the bore size. For the transmission, I have no idea how healthy it is. I suspect with how much it was leaking, it probably was run low fairly often, but it still worked. Once I’m at that point, I might get it running with just this setup to get it moving under its own power at least, then plan out exactly what I want to do with the drivetrain

Thanks Don! It has been a journey so far! Baby steps, but soon enough it’ll be moving under its own power

I was looking into putting it on a rotisserie, and saw some folks who did the engine stand trick. I’m looking at how much room I have (length-wise), and cost or buying vs building. But I think just for ease of access for the underneath things, it’s definitely the way to go. I just know I’ll be terrified the first time (and probably every time) I turn it over! 😅

Thanks Joe! Yes, the number of times I stop and go “that was definitely the dumb way to do it”… 🤣 When I used to grind and then I’d spend the next few days with grinding grit coming out when I blew my nose, it definitely makes you think about all that going into your lungs, it can’t be good for you!

Thanks! I’ve checked out your videos, it looks good! I figure once all the bones are sorted then I can focus on the “exterior” metal, then move on to the mechanics and making it drive again. Then the focus can be the bodywork and paint

Thanks Joe! I was listening to some good tunes and realized I probably looked silly and checked my garage cam to see if it caught anything 🤣 Thanks for sticking with me!

Hey! Your videos have been amazing! I’m beginning to contemplate some sheet metal work myself. Which assembly manual have you been using?

Thanks! I’ve been using the Jim Osborne manuals - I think they were on sale once so I picked them all up since my car basically needs everything, haha. They’re great for showing how things go together, but could use more specifics like exact measurements. There might be others out there that have more detail, but I’m not sure.

Glad to see your progress of late.....@@evansmessygarage

Right on, thanks! I actually just measured and my long brackets are exactly 42” apart, so I did something right 🤣. The front-to-back on the La is what has me most worried, but you’re right, it’s probably going to be close enough!

I actually think I sorted out where the L brackets go, but we’ll tack them in and test tomorrow

Haha, thanks! It’s amazing sometimes the small things will cause such big worries!

Thanks! I think it comes from disliking rework more than being patient. Knowing it would bug me and I’d just create more work for myself makes me slow down 😅 Haha! That’s something I’ve gotten a little better at too: back when I was doing metal ~10yrs ago my garage was actually a hazard with a pile of scrap I had to climb over. Now it’s unceremoniously thrown under my workbench 🫣

It’s just a 5” metal grinding disc. For coarse grinding I prefer these over sanding discs simply because sanding discs will flex and take metal away in other places if you’re not careful. The grinding discs are more precise with where they remove

Hahaha! I know! If I wasn’t on the naughty list already for 2024, that should do it

Thanks! Interesting to know you ran into the same rocking I did. Because I didn’t touch my frame rail and rear torque boxes, either the new floor has a slightly different shape making it higher, or the new transition pan is sitting closer to the frame rail - neither would surprise me. And I need to see if the driver side has the same rocking. My plan was a fit-up today, but I strained my back playing hockey last night, so best to rest up and not have it get worse. At any rate, I’d love to see how your engine bay turns out! Hopefully I’m not that far behind in that department!

Thanks!

It’s not a bad combination, especially with so many options to keep it a lighter small block but with the power of a big block. Of course it wouldn’t be stock, but a 67 can also fit a big block if you’re not worried about originality 🙂

Thanks! It’s definitely a labor of love, getting everything fitted just right is very satisfying, and I love working on the details

I’m happy to share all the things I would have changed! Good luck with your floor, it’s a big job but sooo satisfying when it’s all done!

Thanks Randall!