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If I remember correctly, the original ECM stopped communicating

@stevenhunter9000 not sure what you mean by that. Cause this diagnosis was found because I read the diagram

@justinvillegas1789 Hey! I'm sorry to hear you are having an issue. With the fact that it's setting a U0100 when it won't crank indicates a bigger issue than just an ignition switch. It's highly ossible that it could be the ECM, but without seeing what it is missing when it fails, I can't guarantee that it is.

@@MobileAutoDiagnostics well when it does the no crack no start and I put the scanner on it it shows the u0100 code I’ve checked a few grounds I pulled the fuse box off and everything is good so idk what to do I’m thinking of just ordering a new ecm but my truck is doing everything in this video from the traction control thing like everything in the video is happening to my truck lol

@justinvillegas1789 that's a good indication that it could be a bad ECM. With it being a 2011, a used ECM will work. If you want to get one to just try to be sure, just turn your key on for 10 minutes, cycle the key, leave it on for another 10 minutes, then do it one more time for a total of 30 minutes. Then your key should be reprogrammed and it should start and run

I'm glad I could be of help!!!

@jeeppeej7366 hello! I'm sorry to hear that you are having these issues and hope that I can be helpful! I made a video to try and help explain where I would start if I was in your position. Let me know if you need anything else! czcams.com/video/fd3QKpstAyM/video.htmlsi=sUcgo_cFmgwSllys

Thanks for watching the video and for the info!! Much appreciated!

It should only be grounded when the key is on, so direct grounding it will keep it awake all the time, which could cause your battery to die overnight. I don't recommend it, but it would help in a pinch!

Hey! Thanks for watching! Unfortunately without a specific code, I won't be of any help in figuring out what is wrong with it

Hello! Yes I have ran into a few with the security system active. Depending on the vehicle, it could be a bad key, Passlock sensor, TDM, PCM, BCM, cut wires, or maybe a few other things. What's wrong with it depends on the vehicle

@@MobileAutoDiagnostics I got a 2007 Chevy Tahoe LTZ original key it just started doing that after my battery died and took battery to get charged

@alfonsoecuevas6516 with it being a 2007. Try leaving the key on for 10 minutes, turn key off then turn it back on for 10 minutes, then key off and back on for another 10 minutes for a total of 30 minutes. Then try and start it. If that doesn't work then either the key is bad or something else is disabling the system and it will need scanned and diagnosed further

Awesome! I'm glad my video helped!

In my honest opinion, I don't think so, due to the fact that they need the VIN changed, but it's possible.

I would check all your fuses and make sure you don't have any that popped. Otherwise I'd check voltages at the ECM connector and make sure you don't have any cut wires

I meant to say "Correct terminology will get you far" but either way! Thanks for watching!

Hello! Glad to see you're still watching my channel!

To have it calibrated or the cost for the equipment?

@@MobileAutoDiagnostics to have the calibration done

Yessir I just need your email address so I can get in contact with you

That sounds like you have some kind of communication issue. Generally on a GM, if you don't have a CEL on with Key on Engine Off, it's not communicating. Unfortunately that could anything from a bad module, to a wire temporarily shorting out.

It should just pop into place on the ball-and-socket joints!

Yes the ECM is the fault. They replaced the module, we programmed, and it never failed again

It definitely could be! An easy way to test would be a safety pin or something similar. Not too thick so you don't damage pins and don't want them touching each other, but go into the terminals of the connector and jump them across. Color for color. Just the 3 communication circuits

Or if you have a multimeter, test voltage on each comm wire. You should see the same voltage per color, for instance if one Tan has 2.3V you should see 2.3V on the other Tan, and the Tan/Black should both have 2.7V or vise versa

I greatly appreciate the loyalty and the kind words!

This specific one had the CVT

Lol I can see why that would be obnoxious in a video but it's not that bad in person. Hopefully the rest of the video made up for it👍

Hey thanks for watching! The part is still on order as there is none available but it is 100% the TIPM

asking the same question, video just cuts out

would have been nice to see full diag

Hey, I'm sorry to hear that! Maybe you blew another fuse as well? What module is setting the U0100 and is there any symptoms that are causing you to chase this particular code?

The car runs fine. MPG seems normal. I don't know which module is causing the code but maybe I can find out if I look at where the fuse that blew is located. I will check for other blown fuses now that you mention it. There are no symptoms aside from CE light and TPMS lights blinking. The TPMS lights only came on after I removed a spare fuse from a blank ("-") fuse slot to replace the blown fuse. I am hoping it's the computer's memory that needs to be cleared for the CE light to go away. Is it a good idea to clear the codes at this point? When I went to clear the OBD2 codes i saw a warning saying that clearing them might make future diagnosis more difficult. I took it to a reputable shop but they are busy and can't do diagnosis until after the weekend. I told them the issue...they said they probably wouldn't be able to reprogram the computer and most independent shops don't have the tools/knowledge to either, and that I would likely have to go to the dealership to get it done.@@MobileAutoDiagnostics

So with the fact that it runs and there's no visible symptoms, I thunk you can ignore the u0100! The blinking TPMS light may be coincidence and you just have a bad sensor in one of your tires. If you take it to a place to get the codes cleared I would make sure to ask if you can get a printout of the codes just for documentation because, yes, clearing the codes can cause trouble with diagnosing a specific issue

@@MobileAutoDiagnostics Thank you!

@@age_of_reason you're welcome!

I have a 2010 Chevy Malibu 2.4l As soon as I turn the key it does the same thing

Sounds like the battery was low when you attempted it. You may try a new battery first. Make sure you are jumping the exact wire or you could mess something up though! Hopefully that helps!

But if jumping it, relays started clicking, then it sounds like you are on the right track! That means the ECM is starting to communicate!

Hello! I appreciate the consistency on watching my videos!

I would go through the wiring diagram and make sure I got all the terminals in the right place before checking anything else. Did you change it with the battery connected? If so, then maybe a ground and power wire touched each other and popped a fuse.

@@MobileAutoDiagnosticsI didn’t do the work. A shop did. I had battery disconnected but they might’ve connected it. I’ve tried clearing the code and nothing happened along with trying to do key relearn

@lifteddreamz830 so was this code active before you replaced the connector? Or just after? If only after, I would take it back to the shop that did it and have them recheck their work, otherwise I'd be checking powers grounds and communication to the ECM to see what voltages are missing.

@@MobileAutoDiagnosticsI don’t remember. I checked it yesterday to see if any codes popped up and that’s what it said. No check engine light is on. Only service traction control/ service stabilitrak. The shop brought it back to the house cause they said they don’t have time to fix it

@lifteddreamz830 ok so, generally with GMs when you turn the key on, if the check engine light is not lit up, that means it's not communicating. You should always have a check engine light when you have the key on with the engine not running.

Yes absolutely. In the future if I find another 09 Malibu or similar I'll show what the reading is during the failure and after the fix just to show how the Multimeter is helpful in diagnosis CAN communication failures!

I appreciate that! Thank you!

Thank you! Much appreciated!

Thank you for watching my video!

It has been a bit! I appreciate you watching my videos. I've been super busy lately and haven't had the time to slow down for video sake but hoping I can soon make videos more frequently!

Thank you for the kind words! In this video I'm using The GM GDS Bus Tool. It's the software that the dealer uses. It's very helpful considering most of GM vehicles run on a "daisy chain" style network so when modules aren't communicating, you have a hint of where to start looking! For the test kit I am using the kit in this link! www.aeswave.com/uTest-Advanced-Terminal-Test-Kit-p9748.html

@@MobileAutoDiagnostics thanks a lot brother

Hey! In this video I'm using a Power Probe. It hooks to the battery and gives you a live reading on any circuit and you can simulate power or ground with it. But you need to be careful as to not put power or ground on the wrong circuit as you can cause more harm than good!

Danke@@MobileAutoDiagnostics

Thanks for watching my video! I'm sorry you're having this issue. So the P2135 is similar to the P2128 in the essence that you are getting a correlation code with the Throttle Position Sensors (2 sensors in the one throttle body just like the pedal in my video.) If all your wires are good from your ECM to the Throttle body, then it needs an ECM just like the one in the video and depending on the year, it has to be New. After a certain year, GM stopped allowing used modules to be programmed

@@MobileAutoDiagnostics thanks for taking the time out to reply. I really appreciate it. I have an appointment to bring it to someone this week coming up. I’m hoping it’s a wiring issue and. It an ECM swap. Have you ever boight ecm’s from flagship one? I get a lot of mixed reviews from people purchasing ECM’s there.

@Mena124 I personally don't do the purchasing but I have programmed some from Flagship 1. They are supposedly remanufactured which in essence should work, but it could come back with a different problem than you had to begin with. If you can't get a new one, Flagship would be your best bet

@@MobileAutoDiagnostics thanks, I’ll let you know how it goes. Enjoy the rest of your weekend.

@@Mena124 you too! I hope you figure out what's going on with your express!

This is a lost communication with ECM code. I would check all your fuses, and check powers, grounds, and 2.3 and 2.7V on the 2 comm wires at the ECM

Hey! Thanks for watching my video! Unfortunately a U1000 is generic and it basically says that one or more modules are not communicating on the CAN network. But if you had a U0100 that would be no communication with the ECM. If you think the ECM is bad, I would check powers, grounds, and look for 2.3V and 2.7V on the 2 CAN wires at the module before replacing

⁠​⁠​⁠@@MobileAutoDiagnosticsoh sorry yes 0100 code. Will googling a wire diagram tell me how to test those wires?

@joshstokes5669 it'll at least get you close. A wiring diagram and a multimeter is all you'll need. You'll just have to make sure you get on the right wires since there are so many lol

Were you able to fix it? I got the same damn problem.. Thanks in advance ​@@joshstokes5669

So the P2510 talks about the powertrain relay and how it's lost its signal from the ECM. The U0100 is a generic "lost communication on CAN." U0151 is a lost comm with Airbag Module and U0422 Is invalid data received from BCM. Based on what is happening, I would focus on that P2510 and see if anythings going on with your PCM or under your fusebox that could be causing issues

I'm sorry I was mistaken, a U0100 is lost comm with ECM and a U1000 is the generic "something is not communicating" code. But I still recommend looking at the P2510 before checking the other codes