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I do have a few non-name modern USB drives, I'd guess they're direct drive. They seem to work fine, but I tend to use an old sony vaio ufd5 usb drive, I feel like it's probably a higher quality unit

Great, glad I could help - most of my videos I'm trying things people haven't really documented yet and wish I'd had myself beforehand

It all evaporates :) Want to make sure no vinegar left

True, many of laptops I do have nicad/nimh batteries so I remove out of habit, but this is new enough to have a lithium cell, though it was dead. I'll probably try to replace some in the future, I keep the old ones, will help with some of the odd connectors.

@@jasonnovak2121 the battery in u is rechargeable. Try to leave the device on charge with the main battery inserted during the night, backup battery will recover. In all my u and ux devices it works well.

Yeah, a little confusing, they typically call these 1.8" adapters "CF to toshiba 50-Pin Adapters". You're right there are only 44 pins on the ribbon cable from the PC, if you check 24:14 you can see were 3 rows, ie 6 pins, aren't connected and row 1 starts on the 4th row. I'm guessing those other pins have some other special purpose generally not needed, so it mostly works like a 44 pin 2.5" drive

Thanks, personally I just use a cheap little powered adapter, works well enough for me: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08GZ159FJ/ To actually capture VGA the Epiphan AV.io HD seems to be the most recommended from what I've found, I'm keeping an eye out for one used, generally I like to record the laptop screen directly with a camera, but for anything more would want to capture directly.

This was one of my earlier videos, I didn't off the OS initially. I may revisit some of these. I do Windows on the L1, though it's running Me instead of XP

Oh, I see

Sorry, no extra batteries. One of my W100s didn't come with one and it took me a long time to find one, basically had to get someone selling one with an extra battery to sell it separately. Kind of have to have one since it's part of the base. I was able to rebuilt the dead one I bought following another video: czcams.com/video/RuaPx7TeP-Y/video.html

Yeah, the BIOS is pretty basic and no setting there, nothing in the hwsetup app either. I'm just using the stock windows hard drive controller drivers, your best chance is to get the official 110CT IDE drivers, I kind of recall some kind of optimized drivers are available

@jasonnovak2121 I'm using a cf card adapter. Would these drivers still work for it? Also, any idea where I can find these drivers?

@@spartanwarrior9755 I believe it should be fine on either a CF card or real HDD. The best place to check is archive.org, go to the software section and search for libretto 110ct (thought 100ct should work) and there a few recovery disks / driver sets

Thanks! A few suggestions, I assume no signs of life, fans, even a power led? Test the power supply itself for 16v, it could be bad or the plug end damaged to only work when the cord is at a specific angle. Test the jack on the laptop, I replace mine in this video since it was damaged and was very picky on how the adapter was plugged in. Next check the fuse on the board near the power supply, looking at the video it looks to be at timestamp 20:03, F1200 on the top edge / upper right corner right above the screw hole.

@@jasonnovak2121 power supply is working. No led at computer when power on pressed. I will check the power jack to see if it's receiving power and the fuse in next step. Have you Facebook, whatsapp or email?

@@G40rocket You can use contact under the channel details for my email

Mostly, the difference is the hardware, the U71P has a 1.1GHz Pentium M and 512MB of RAM while the U50 has a 900mhz Celeron and 256MB of RAM.

I think it depends on if have US or Japanese region, the buttons are overloaded with a lot of characters, but you should be able to access via shift or function combos. Probably doesn't make for the best in games with awkward combos. Some key are a bit confusing, like the \ for paths, the key works, but is a different character onscreen, still treats like a \ though.

@@jasonnovak2121 Yeah I worked it out finally

Does it seem like it's completely dead, no CPU fan or backlight? I wouldn't give up on it yet - I'd try at least unplugging and re-seating the wires and ribbon cables from the screen, since they're fairly easy to access, and the LCD cables or power button are my first thoughts. Did it work before tearing it down?

@@jasonnovak2121 It did not work before, I think there is CPU fan, no backlight. I would try it with an external monitor but I currently have no cable but really I only want it if the screen works. I shall try your suggestions again anyway. It came from a very local Ewaste so I shall put out feelers there for one that works. [You should see what they get given!] The very good laptop I am using now comes from there for only 30 Aussie dollars.

@@SubTroppo It's possible the inverter / backlight is bad, you can check by shining a flashlight at the screen at a few angles, though I'm not sure about finding a used inverter. I believe the video out is a mini vga jack, you can can adapters, I know apple used them in their iMacs, but I'm not sure everyone wired them the same so may not work. Otherwise I'd say start with fuses, there is one by the power supply, I can't quite tell but looks white component at 12:31 near the b4 marking, but I'd suspect it would have no life at all if that was blown.

@@jasonnovak2121 Thanks. I'll take a look. I watch Curiousmarc & Mend it Mark but I have no real electronics skills. I just do the obvious fault finding. The bloke from whom I got it has all the gear including for micro-soldering [he also has a mass spectrometer he used to maintain in his work] so he might be interested in the having a look. ps Too many devices anyway!

​@@jasonnovak2121hi, ive got a u100 with the LCD and cables already ripped out, do you have the model number of the LCD? And what type of connector does it use? Im trying to search for a replacement/substitute LCD. If I can't find a 7.2 inch then I might be forced to find a 7.0 inch LCD.

Have you upgraded to a CF / SSD solution? 5 min is a bit slow even for vintage hardware, my first thought would be a spinning HDD that is failing. It sounds like it does boot, but in some cases it can get stuck with a dialog and you need to alt-tab to close it, like a date or swap file warning.

@@jasonnovak2121 mine has the CF card and adapter like yours

@@Raptor50aus assuming nothing is off with Windows itself, it's possibly the CF card, the raw read/write speed but also the random speeds / iops. I've tried some generic unbranded CF cards before that were noticeably slower. Otherwise possibly no swap file / filter driver is not industrial, but doubtful

@@jasonnovak2121 All good the date and time were incorrect It boost fast now

Sure, 1.8" options are bit more limited, I've used a few can see covered here, czcams.com/video/wJ7kzYa8isY/video.html - but in general the IDE interface is also going to cap the performance of a SATA drive a lot. For 2.5" I usually go sata/msata

There should be a VGN-# or similar model number on the bottom sticker which should give more details if you google it

@@jasonnovak2121 cool thanks. I think it's 2012, but idk

@@LostShadowGD what's the model number?

@@jasonnovak2121 idk I'm on holiday, so can't check

Sure, yes if you turn it on via the power button it will boot into Windows like a standard PC, the special button boots directly into "Instant On" mode instead. It was mean for the days of slower computers and drives where it could take a few minutes to fully boot into Windows, with "instant on" you could quickly get into a browser in about 10-15 seconds.

Very nice, what model did you end up getting? I know they're pretty rare now

yes, pretty much. I believe the US models all came with 2GB, some Japanese models came with 1GB, but it's soldered onto the motherboard and not really upgradeable

@@jasonnovak2121 mine has 2 GB and SSD but it's slow probably due to Java heavy websites

@@phils7921 I'm guessing the CPU is probably hurting it too, it has an early gen single core low power Atom processor which wasn't too fast even at the time. A fairly wide range of speeds too from 1.3Ghz to 2Ghz

@@jasonnovak2121 hola, que window s, es que el funciona mejor en esta laptop?

@@cesarramirez9975 I would recommend Windows 7 over Vista for retrocomputing, if you need to do something modern then Windows 10 32-bit, but won't be ideal.

I think options are probably pretty limited, there is way to connect an SNES controller to a parallel port, but that's more for Windows, not sure if there are dos drivers. There is a PC card but I think it's pretty rare. Otherwise USB perhaps, the 100ct and newer one at least via the dock, or there are USB pc cards, but again maybe will have issues with DOS

It's a shame to have one of these rare machines locked out due to a password. I checked my ss1000 again my other docks and they're all either flipped or don't line up. I could offset it to plug into the ct20 dock, but I suspect the pinout is probably different. I actually made one of those parallel dongles to unlock a tecra 550cdt. It looks like the last dock I saw up for sale was a year ago, it's the pa2725uj. If you ever end up a complete dead end email me via about and maybe can work something out