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Did you remove the speed sensor or just replaced it afterwords?

This was so helpful! Thank you so much I was able to order the belt and get it replaced!

Thank you

The other guys' videos skip the hard part.

Can you please share the Subaru partnumbers for these gaskets for a Forester SG with a 2.0 engine? Thanks mate

Thanks for the video and for putting the required tools list in the comments. I'll be putting a set of Bilsteins on my 2019 F250 the weekend and watching your video was helpful in getting ready for that task.

Thanks for this. I'm interested how difficult the springs would be to replace if I even need to.

Great video

Good video. Threw you a like and sub amigo. Im doing the job now and ran into a couple difficulties- the first being that Im having trouble getting the new nut that affixes the shock itself to the mount (the one you mentioned using vice grips to remove) to tighten back down all the way, so much so that i stripped the little metal piece tt the top of the shock. I tried using the old and new nut both but couldnt get eithernl to thread all the way. Second, im having the same issue but on the left upper bolt that affixes the mount to the body of the car. Tried using a jack to relieve tension as suggested but the bolt gets about halfway threaded to the car and stops. Any insight would be appreciated.

I hit a pothole and blew the mount.

but how did you make it fit?

i have a 2014 or 15 , bought new, fusion, that the back right shock or w/e is knocking, I've singled it down to this, what cheap parts should I buy exactly? AD1115 Bracket-S/Absr,Suspension Bracket Shock Absorber Strut Ford Fusion 2013-2018 Mount Rear Upper Bracket?

heyy hoygt fortinberry

Thank you mate

Dealing with this as well on my FG2 Civic si. I replaced the Starter and alternator, lasted for 3 months, battery has been new and struggled to start with my key icon flashing, re programmed key and got a CEL p0658 and p0172 which went away after I replaced some fuses and the new fuel pump was replaced… come to start yesterday, no start but after cranking, fuse relay start clicking which I felt was my P/W relay…

Mine wouldn't start this morning. She's parked in a 7 eleven parking spot. I couldn't see how to tap the starter without jacking it up n taking the wheel off. But I heard that whirring sound several times before n def coming from near that panel.maybe my relay just crapped out?

If a strut is bad will hitting a bump feel more severe

When installing the new spindle/ assembly, blade mounting bolt use anti-seize on the threads. Makes easier to remove should you need to.

Amazon got solid steel lugs 19.99 for all 20 still holding strong the stock lugs made me dread working on the ford

Mine was ignition switch. Was driving me nuts

This video helped me get both starter bolts out te oil filter and sending unit off in less than 45 minutes but ive been prying on this starter physically for about 3 hours and still it wont come off. I got it to move about 5 or 6 mm away from bell housing but its a bear.

Than a very helpful

Awesome video I can’t learn from u-tube… yessahlove you!!!!

Excellent video and explanation.If anyone need adjustable sway bar for better performance,ping me.

To be clear you said if the light goes off when you're in the start position ? On mine the light come on in the start position.

Huge help! Thank you!!

Who ever designed this should have to work on models for a month.

Yikes hope it wasn't a lifter baring

Starter o, main relay or gas pump..

When you first got in the cab. Did I hear you say choke is in. Never seen a Detroit or any other diesel with a choke.. been around a pretty good while but I guess I may have missed a few things. I guess you are never to old to learn new things uhm I ll be damned

Is this considered “bank 1 sensor 1”

I did not realize that the sway bar causes the vehicle to squat! Nicely done, 👍

was wondering what the part number was for the took kit you used.

Very helpful!! Thank you! Will help me fix my boat trailer! Thanks for your time

That square on the lower dash is the slot for controller. You could probably get a gm on and install there?

Great! Thanks bro!

Where do u find ur bottles

What a confusing mess

HELP: mechanic replaced rear shocks and now, the rear is bouncing like an old Buick it's ridiculous! Q Why do the new shocks bounce /rebound three times? I thought it's the opposite. Old worn out shocks will bounce 2X or more? 07 Civic sedan I want the old ones put back on they did not bounce. Thx

Great presentation

If you turn the bottom part upside down, it has a nice dish shape for pounding sheet metal into compound curve shapes..

Do you still have Niro EV? Do you still recommend it?

Excellent how to video. Thanks for the close up video showing how you removed and installed the bearing.

Thank you

Extra load on the batteries cranking when clutch is depressed.

I'm also on year 3 with my Ryobi 54" ZTR! Bought the Ryobi ZT540e on August 2021. Advertised to mow up to 3.5 acres/charge, which sounds like a good match to mow my 7-acre homesite. A full battery charge would operate the mower for very close to 2 hours and 10 minutes to reach a 5% remaining charge level. It took 4 overnight charging cycles for the mower to cut 7 acres. Mowing continued about weekly until sometime in November and resumed the next March. From November until March, the mower was kept plugged to the battery charger. During that time period, the mower had light duties used as a yard tractor towing a light-weight trailer each week to carry two garbage cans down the 600 foot drive for weekly curbside trash pickup, During 2022 and 2023, the mowing time per battery charge continued to decrease. Especially when the mowing season started around March 2023 when battery charge life decreased greatly to 45 minutes. Ryobi offered to replace the batteries even though my mower was a few months past the 1-year battery warranty. New replacement batteries were shipped and installed by Ryobi at my home. That brought the battery charge life back to 2 hours per charge. After November 2023, mowing season ended and the mower and batteries were maintained as done the previous year. As stated earlier, a battery charge lasted only 45 minutes. Today I installed a 48 volt 100 amp hour FeLiPO4 battery system to replace the mower’s lead-acid batteries. The battery system in enclosed and sealed in a plastic box (21"x11"x9") with electrical connectors used to connect the the two battery cables from the mower. Using the two useful grip handles of the box, I easily lifted the 87 pound battery system onto the emptied battery tray of the mower. The two battery cables from the mower were connected. An elastic cord is used to secure the battery system enclosure to the battery tray. Charged to 100% battery charge using a 50-amp LiFePO4 charger (bought separately), the mower then operated for just more than two hours and reports 6% capacity left. LiFePO4 batteries can be charged about 4 or 5 times faster than lead-acid batteries. A LiFePO4 100-hour battery can be charged as quickly as one hour at 100 amps although charging at no more than 50 amps is suggested for longest battery lifespan. I expected that the new batteries would provide about 4 hours of mower operation. I’ll keep working with this to see if something like four hours can happen. The mower’s original battery charge gauge reports 226 hours of usage.

Hi!! I'd like to know if your honda fit is made in USA or Japan? And what's the size of the front wheel bearing (inside and outside diameter)? I have a Hinda Fit made in Brazil and currently I'm having a lot of trouble trying to find the bearing replacement because is bigger than the American and japanese versions (at least thats what I've been told) but I can't find the size that I need, that's why I ask you about the size your car uses, that can give some orientation. Thanks a lot for your help, greetings!!

The only thing I would say is over steer and under steer are fundamentals of steering and suspension geometry, so the anti roll bar does not effect thise principals. What you're actually describing with that incorrect term is a loss of traction as you have exceeded the coefficents of friction on the tyre! Yep, a mouthful, better described as skew or a skid. Any loss of traction is technically a skid. 🙂 The best way to think about over and under steer is where the Akermann intersection is (where the lines from KPand steering joint cross) if it is before the rear axle or anti-akermann, it will under steer, if it is behind the axle it will over steer.this will be measurable and seen at 1mph (you need to avoid tyre deformation to get a true result).

dick knows. gonna search for anodda vid. this one too long.

Was that auto tensioner bolt stuck for you? granted youve done this 10 years ago on that car i just got a 90 accord 91k miles original engine no maintenance has been done to it and that timing belt is rotten