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Hi Michael, thanks for the question. Short answer is I didn't take the boat off the trailer at all. That trailer is set up with just two bunks running the length of the hull. Able to prep and paint everywhere except where those bunk contact which is a section about 6 ft long ad maybe 5" wide. Real problem is how to get that section coated before putting boat in the water. There are some options and I'm going to do it differently next year but for this job I got a little rushed so I took the express route. Once all the other bottom work was done and boat was ready to launch I loaded up the little bit of paint that I saved for the job, sandpaper and thinner and a brush and headed for boat launch. Tried to time it so ramp wouldn't be busy since I needed to sit in the parking lot for a few hours. Before we left to launch I got under and inspected and measured where things like transducers, intake vents and speedo sensors etc are on hull to make sure there was clearance for the bunks to move about 10-12 inches to port or starboard on hull. Then I put a 55 gal barrel on the port side and filled it with water. At the launch get ready to launch as usual but leave bow strap secure with a foot of slack. Back the boat until it floats free of trailer, keeping it secured with bow strap, and it should list to side you put the barrel. If not shift some more weight or have a crewmember stand on that side. Pull the trailer forward just enough so that the bunks contact the hull and double check that they are still in position to support hull and not contacting any underwater fittings or running gear. If alls well go ahead an pull boat off the ramp and park out of the way where you can. I would not drive down the road like this. Now the unpainted areas are out from behind the bunks and you can prep and paint as needed. As soon as second coat of paint has dried to touch you can launch the boat. If you are going to be putting it back on trailer before launching later, cover the freshly painted area with wax paper while paint is still tacky and leave wax paper on when resetting hull on trailer. Thats one way. For next year I am going to make an extra bunk to bolt on one side at a time inside existing and then remove outer bunk, prep and paint and let cure then do same on other side. Or you can block up the keel, aft midships and forward on level ground and let the air out of the tires. That will give you room to paint and the trailer and bunks are still there to be stands in case something moves wrong. Then just refill tires and remove blocks. Roller trailers are more difficult but you can do it by either blocking it up like above or making sure trailer is secure in front either hooked up to truck or tied down and a block at the stern to keep it from popping a wheelie. Paint one coat then loosen strap and push or winch boat back 6-12 inches to expose bare spots. Wax paper over tacky paint if you need to maneuver before fully cured. It's a little bit of extra work but better that paying drydock fees and having to lift boat off of trailer.

@@Go2marine thanks for the detailed response!

@@Go2marine I really appreciate the detailed answer too. I'm going to be doing this later this month and was wondering how.... I have some heavy equipment and may be able to borrow some boat stands, but..... Your ideas helped greatly! Thanks again!

Did you measure the diameter of your frame? Does it not match any of the options found here? www.go2marine.com/ladner-repair-netting

@@LFSMarineandOutdoor Wow, thanks for responding so quickly! I looked at the site and it is likely that the 30" diameter repair net might work for the trap I have. Will measure the trap once I get to my boat next time. Looks like the 1/2" repair net is out of stock at the moment anyway, I will check back in a couple of weeks again!

@@ilkkakallio3817 Happy to help! I hope it works out. If you have any questions, don't hesitate to call our website team at 1-800-998-9508 7am-4pm PST.

Hi - sorry for the delay. You can find replacement netting here: www.go2marine.com/ladner-repair-netting

A subtle flick of the wrist and a lot of practice.

Hi Brandon - great questions. The red cups are standard 16oz plastic cups. I'd recommend vented bait jars as they allow the scent of the bait to dissipate more rapidly. You can find vented and non-vented options on our website here: www.go2marine.com/scotty-bait-jars-liter-half-liter-vented-non-vented

@@LFSMarineandOutdoor Thanks for the reply. It just so happens that I just bought (4) 1liter vented bait jars from you folks to try out a bait recipe like this for crabbing. Having said that, I was considering drilling holes in them but sounds like they are good to go and best as is.

@@brandonjohnson8635 Perfect. The vented ones should work great. Thanks for the update and for being a customer. Let us know if you have other questions, and good luck crabbing this year.