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I got the evolution h22 bracket. Best on the market.

I was using the plate when I had the b-series crv transmission. I will be going with the fewh22 transmission case. This way the motor is not tilting

@@AJIMPORTS that that’s what I meant is the billet front half that is h. And you can do a b gear set inside of it for strength

@RandomAuto12 then yes i will be running that but I have upgraded h22 gears.

@@AJIMPORTS hella nice. Excited to see it all come together

Cleared the code with a scanner. I did go and get a dealer sensor. The aftermarket one I had kept giving me the code. With the oem no more problem.

Yes. Want to see what the h22 does.

@NGlitchesFTW I zip tie it to the area where it screw on to the body. I lowered the heat shield a little so get my hand in. Anything else I would have to take off more things

The heater core hoses

@4168kid like in the video you can test to see. But I would think your heater valve is broken. That's the valve that's in the engine bay going to the heatercore. To to see if those hose get hot.

@AcuraSickness it's not a bad job. Just make sure to change the vtec solenoid gasket while your their.

@@michaelvargas8656 yea got lucky finding parts that were the same color as the car.

the codes are saying the system is too lean. Try using high octane gas. if that does not work, you have to use a scan tool to see if the o2 sensor is working correctly or going bad.

@@AJIMPORTS Thank you very much. You've been very helpful. I will do as you wrote

Will be checking those parts out soon

@@AJIMPORTS make sure to also check the frame

@@trundlepufpendants thanks, first time trying body work

Just a FYI the aftermarket cats are not the best. If you can get a dealer one. Try to do that. Or get the o2 extender to put on the o2 sensor. That will help if they can fit

@@AJIMPORTS Thanks for the reply and suggestion. I'm holding off on the O2 extender simply because the light doesn't bother me as much (I was able to pass inspection this year) as I like to problem solve. I want to know what is wrong. I think it may have started with the faulty software for which Honda had a bulletin. That got patched, but I believe it caused the fuel injectors to misfire and it may have snowballed from there. I'm in the middle of attempting to do what you showed on the video. At this point I'm not getting enough leverage to loosen the bolts. Frustrating, but will try again tomorrow.

Just took out the Catalytic Converter. I was hoping I could find some shortcuts, so I wouldn't have to do all the work you did, but no, it ended up being exactly like you showed it... I can see the honeycomb and there's no obvious melting or damage, but a powdery residue is present on the upstream side of the Cat. More comes out with some knocking. I'll wash it and put it back in to see if it helps. Worst case, I'll have to do it again and buy a new Cat. Thanks for the great video. I wouldn't have done this without your help.

@pstrzel maybe you can look for a used cat or make sure you don't have a exhaust leak (wishful thinking). Hope washing it out and maybe spacing out the o2 sensor will help.

@@AJIMPORTS Mine looks exactly like the Dorman ones that sell for $475 in Autozone, which I can afford, except that mine seems to have a missing rubber gasket (I looked around thinking it just fell off, but no). I wonder if that was the reason for the code. Edit: I'm referring to the round gasket included with new Cats that I assume goes on the down stream end, but you don't seem to have one either, so... dunno.

@crunchytacosupreme9371 when the freon was added oil was placed in the system.

Yea it was cleaned and I just replaced the bad caliper.

It's a speed factory manifold. They no longer make them

Just did the other two mount front and rear car drives great but this job is a pain with out a lift

@@MrTeeAye if you have to change the master cylinder. It's easier to get the full line from rv6. The oem one is a pain to put back in

yes, very helpful.

That's the setup. The throttle body is electric and you can consider the tps as the sensor I replace in the video. Normally it will show a code if it's going bad. Did you do a tune-up check your plugs

@stripecatflippangitnamecha8721 most likely it's the actuator over the button. The button would feel weird when you press it. Like in the video you can test the actuator by removing it and manually turning the flap on the hvac door. That's the easiest test beside a scan tool

@@AJIMPORTS you might be right it's the actuator causing my buttons to turn off all the ligths, cause Everytime I kick that side it comes on. and it's hot rigth now.

It's only 3 screw to remove and you can run. The test. I recommend getting dealer unit. Tried aftermarket and had issues

Not everyday you get a comment like this. Thank you very much for taking the time to watch the video and providing feedback. This help a lot.

Not sure. Some ppl running in the 500 plus with no issues.

You can get away with out fixing the bearing unless it's making noise

And best part, if you want to change the stiffness of the mount it's only 40 bucks. Currently using the 70 series mount and they are not bad. Been a few years and still no issue beside the oem transmission mount needs to be done next

Very true. Plan to keep mine and do a 3.5 or 3.7 swap. But over all it's a good car with little to no issues

@AJIMPORTS 3.0 will probably outlast those. Id recommend get a Acura RL if u want a 3.7

@brendentimothy5669 did you get a oem part to install. Some times the aftermarket not the best. Also the throttle body might be going bad. Have to check that it's opening fully along with the tps signal.

@@AJIMPORTS Yea it was my throttle body, I replaced it and the code went away, its been off for like 60+ miles now too, no more loss of power, seems like my issue has been fixed

Good to hear the issue is gone. That was a very dangerous issue to have. Mine happened during local driving.

yep, if everything else around the system is working then the heater core box is the issue.

@@AJIMPORTS f.... thanks for quick reply Better save up now ....

Seeing the fluid spit taking the pulley off made me laugh 😆 don’t know how many times I’m like I got this and do the same shit lmao 😂

Yes everytime it's always a mess no matter how I try to keep the area clean. Always a leak

Can't move the muffler back the rear subframe in the way. Just working with the space I have left. But might change the muffler. Still too loud for my liking

@@AJIMPORTS Can you fit a 5x11 cased muffler in the middle? If so, consider putting two of the smallest-bodied magnaflow mufflers with the built-in X-pipes in the middle (ahead of the rear subframe) then just running two pipes back to the 3.5x12 or longer rolled edge tips. Having two X-pipes should blend the sound almost as well as a Y-pipe and using two of the smallest cased packing style mufflers should get the volume bearable. Plus since you'll have two pipes coming off the muffler you won't have to do a split at the end where the tips are, AND you can then place the tips more easily wherever you want. TVR style (out each side behind the tires) would be cool to see, but dual centers are also fun, so up to you and whatever you wanna do. But definitely, the longer the actual tip (and having it rolled edge) seems to improve sound in my experience, and I say 3.5 dia mostly to keep the appearance reasonable and to make sure they fit in your cutout.