![Espruino](/img/default-banner.jpg)
- 109
- 738 995
Espruino
United Kingdom
Registrace 18. 10. 2012
Videos showing you how to make things smart! Watch the channel to find out how to automate your home, build intelligent machines and learn to program everyday devices using JavaScript and Espruino Microcontrollers.
Create a Bluetooth door sensor for Home Assistant
How to create a door opening sensor with Espruino Puck.js (www.espruino.com/Puck.js) and use it with Home Assistant to control a light!
www.espruino.com/BTHome+Door+Sensor
Don't want to play with code? You can upload it directly to a Puck.js with a few clicks at: espruino.github.io/EspruinoApps/?id=bthome_door
www.espruino.com/BTHome+Door+Sensor
Don't want to play with code? You can upload it directly to a Puck.js with a few clicks at: espruino.github.io/EspruinoApps/?id=bthome_door
zhlédnutí: 914
Video
Home Assistant BTHome setup with wireless Bluetooth sensors
zhlédnutí 1,4KPřed 7 měsíci
How to control a fresh Home Assistant install from wireless bluetooth sensors with BTHome - it works out of the box! www.espruino.com/BTHome Setup Using Puck.js (www.espruino.com/Puck.js) and Bangle.js (www.espruino.com/Bangle.js2)
Bangle.js 2: Getting Started / Unboxing
zhlédnutí 7KPřed rokem
banglejs.com/start2 www.espruino.com/Bangle.js2 github.com/espruino/BangleApps/wiki
Bangle.js 2 Disassembly
zhlédnutí 1,6KPřed rokem
How to remove the LCD and PCB from the Bangle.js 2 Smart watch (banglejs.com/) www.tindie.com/products/c0pperdragon/hot-plate/ was used as a hot plate, but if you have a 3D printer the heated bed is almost perfect for hitting 80 degrees C.
Bangle.js 2: Getting Started / Unboxing (old)
zhlédnutí 11KPřed 2 lety
Please see the updated video at czcams.com/video/aoNray1iuBM/video.html banglejs.com/start2 www.espruino.com/Bangle.js2 github.com/espruino/BangleApps/wiki
Bangle.js 2 Firmware Updates (Android)
zhlédnutí 2,3KPřed 2 lety
See www.espruino.com/Bangle.js2#firmware-updates for more information
Bangle.js 2 Charge Cradle Assembly
zhlédnutí 2KPřed 2 lety
As provided with the Bangle.js 2 KickStarter campaign: www.kickstarter.com/projects/gfw/banglejs-2-the-open-smart-watch
Bangle js 2 KickStarter
zhlédnutí 9KPřed 2 lety
Now live at www.kickstarter.com/projects/gfw/banglejs-2-the-open-smart-watch
Bangle.js Custom Clock Fonts
zhlédnutí 1,2KPřed 3 lety
How to use the online font converter to easily create your own clock faces for Bangle.js Full code at www.espruino.com/Bangle.js Clock Font
DIY Car Battery monitor
zhlédnutí 6KPřed 3 lety
Creating a car battery monitor using Espruino and a few passive components. Full details and code at www.espruino.com/Battery Monitor
DIY Night Light
zhlédnutí 919Před 3 lety
Using Espruino to create your own night light - using the on-board LED as a light sensor as well as getting power consumption as low as possible. Source and more info at www.espruino.com/Night Light
Bangle.js Graphics
zhlédnutí 6KPřed 3 lety
A quick introduction to graphics on Bangle.js espruino.com/Bangle.js Graphics espruino.com/Bangle.js
DIY Lego Duplo Siren and Lights
zhlédnutí 1,7KPřed 3 lety
Using an Espruino Puck.js and 3D printed Duplo block to create a siren for a Duplo Fire Engine! Uses www.espruino.com/Puck.js Full instructions at www.espruino.com/Puck.js Duplo Siren Apologies for the sound - unfortunately record volume was set a bit too high on the microphone.
Bangle.js Charge Cradle assembly
zhlédnutí 645Před 3 lety
Showing how to assemble the Bangle.js Charge Cradle: shop.espruino.com/banglejs-dock
Espruino App Loader demo
zhlédnutí 557Před 3 lety
www.espruino.com/apps Take any Espruino Bluetooth device and load Open Source apps onto it quickly and easily with the Espruino App Loader
Bangle.js example apps from NodeConf EU
zhlédnutí 5KPřed 4 lety
Bangle.js example apps from NodeConf EU
DIY Smart Electricity Meter with Puck.js
zhlédnutí 60KPřed 5 lety
DIY Smart Electricity Meter with Puck.js
What's inside Makita 18v LXT BL1830B OEM and clone battery packs?
zhlédnutí 108KPřed 5 lety
What's inside Makita 18v LXT BL1830B OEM and clone battery packs?
DIY Wireless Multiplayer Pong with Pixl.js
zhlédnutí 801Před 6 lety
DIY Wireless Multiplayer Pong with Pixl.js
This uses the optical communication port on any MID approved meter which is the European standard. I’m just gonna say this before certain comments arise you cannot reset the meter to 0 without specialist authorisation and software from the manufacturer which requires the use of computer and special test rates, so it would not be possible to do this.
Thanks for all your efforts and the video. I cannot, however, for the life of me get the screen to lift off of my bangle.js2, even after carefully double-checking my 3D-printer's heat bed with an infrared thermometer. The temperature should be just right, the bangle is heated throughout and yet my suction cub doesn't entice any movement in the screen, even with enough violence that would risk tearing the ribbon connector. Is there some kind of trick to it? I've been at it for hours and I'm afraid of slow-cooking the device a bit too much.
There's no real trick - some are easier than others, but it can take several minutes for the heat to get right through the glass to the glue. If it really doesn't move you can get a thin scalpel/razor blade and push it between the glass and plastic - if you push in gently it should nudge the LCD over slightly and that may be enough to loosen the glue enough for the suction cup. If you push in and lean it over you can lever the display out but it can dent the plastic slightly (and risk cracking the screen if you're not careful) so should really be a last resort
Makita 18v 3A is inside how many battery 5A is how many battery have
It’s only when you come to driving high demand power hungry tools you realize why the OEM is needed and worth the extra cost 💵. However if you’re only drilling a 5mm hole now and again and screwing and unscrewing half a dozen small screws I get the appeal of a good knock off battery. Having said that I still wouldn’t buy knock offs 🪫 as I’m always scared of electrical fires and shorts especially if I left the battery on charge overnight because I forgot to take it off. It’s a lot of power being stored in a small box 🔥.
Hello, Thank you for the video. However, I encountered an issue with acetone during my work 😢. Would it be possible to purchase a new support for the electronic board of the Bangles 2 watch?
The case is made of ABS plastic so acetone would dissolve it :( What do you mean by "support for the electronic board"? Do you mean the watch body itself? I'm afraid we don't sell those
I thought I saw a video addressing text and call notifications but now I can't find it. What are the options when a call or text comes in. Thanks.
There's a bit of information on it in the readme for the Messages UI app: banglejs.com/apps/?id=messagegui&readme - that might be what you're after? But if you have other questions it might be better to ask in the forum at forum.espruino.com/
Not sure if you can help but does the MDBT42Q have captive capability? Or is that just a Puck.js feature?
Hi - I'm not quite sure what you mean. You mean Bluetooth Central (so the ability to connect to other devices)? That works on all Bluetooth Espruino boards we sell.
@@Espruino oh I'm sorry I mean like capacitive touch... like on pin d11 on the puck.js... but on the smaller MDBT42Q
@@StuartDesign Ahh right. Well, capsense direct on that pin is built into the Puck.js because it needs an extra resistor in there. But if you use two GPIO and add a resistor then you can use this code to do it on any Espruino Bluetooth board: www.espruino.com/NRF52LL#hardware-capacitive-sense-on-two-pins
test
How many cell batteries in there 4 or 8?
I'm pretty new to wiring... what do you recommend for making temporary connections with this board (I'm just experimenting not following the project)... breadboard wires seem to jiggle loose even if I bend them... should I just solder? Or am I missing something obvious? Cheers.
There are a few interesting suggestions at electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/249140/how-can-i-make-connection-on-pcb-circuit-board-holes-without-solder-for-proto but personally i just poke the wire through the whole, twist it back onto itself and around, If you want to do a lot of prototypes with it I'd consider soldering on pin strip and poking it into a proto-board. However in this case, you're dealing with voltage from a car battery that you *really* don't want to short out or connect to places it shouldn't (if 12v gets on one of the board's GPIO pins it'll kill it instantly) and only 4 connections to the board, so I'd say soldering would be a pretty good idea in this case.
upgrading my banglejs 1 today!
Amo su software gracias por todo
I see the difference. The originals are better, but they are still overpriced.
i have found myself watching a lot of your videos lately, as an owner of a BangleJS 2. you (and anyone else working there at Espruino) make pretty fun stuff, both video-wise and hardware-wise!
Very nice to have it as a standard library now :) I need to try it with Shelly and ESPHome devices because my HA is out of BLE range most of the time.
Yes - it works great with ESPHome Bluetooth scanners here at least - I use a bunch of them dotted around the house. You just need to adjust the scan interval as by default they only scan 10% of the time so it's easy for them to miss things
Quite interesting.
Hey Espruino, Do you guys ever plan on making a Bangle JS 3? With upgraded hardware such as a Blood oxygen level sensor, more ram / storage, and a better chip, and even maybe a better more colorful display. I currently love my Bangle JS 2, just wondering if theirs ever a plan on releasing a newer ish version that would sorta compete with modern smart watches.
Hi! We do have plans on making one eventually, but it likely wouldn't be for at least another 2 years - one of the main buyers of Bangle.js are companies, and to them, having devices discontinued is a total pain so it's good to be able to offer products with a longer life. Realistically a Bangle.js 3 will probably be a similar device to now - a slightly better display, but still sunlight readable, long battery life - just more buttons and user-serviceable. We don't really want Bangle.js to compete with the Apple Watches of the world - an Open Source project with one full time engineer can't compete with companies with multi-billion dollar budgets - we're just going to end up with a bunch of disappointed customers. The Bangle.js 2 hardware has been capable of blood oxygen monitoring for a while (all but the very first batch of KickStarter watches) - so a software update could add the functionality (some users were working on it but I have't heard back). Whether the it's actually a reliable reading remains to be seen though!
@@Espruino Thanks for the responds! I can totally understand discontinuing the Bangle.js 2 would be a pain. Nice to see that maybe in 2 years bangle will release its third version. And I had zero idea bangle did Blood oxygen, perhaps that could be a potential update, as it just seems like wasted potential. Anyways, thanks for the responds, I wasn't expecting one at all. Very informative :D
I only get undefined back
Please can you ask in the forum and post up exactly the code you're using?
will do@@Espruino
Really liking the looks of this watch. Tempted to get one.
I bought the Bangl.js 2two weeks ago. After the first charge happened without problems, installed a couple of apps I had problems for about ten days. Although it still had more than 25% charge last night, I had to charge it this morning. Put the phone on charge (the correct way) even for hours, it can only be turned on when the charging cable is plugged in. When disconnected although the battery has been charged, it will no more let itself be turned on by pressing the center button. Can you help me or give me a suggestion?
Hi - this is a Bangle.js 2 that you bought? CZcams comments aren't the easiest way to solve things, so maybe you could post on the forum? forum.espruino.com/ Ideally though, try a factory reset in case something you installed/changed is using up so much power it runs the battery down and can't charge (eg GPS on constantly) and also try plugging the charge cable into a different USB charger just in case.
Hello Gordon. Thank you for the Bangle and thank you for the videos. I intend to use my bangle.js 2 as an alarm wrist clock. I tried it with that entend but the vibration motor proved to be too weak, compared to that, for instance of the Fitbit Charge 4 for instance. Do you know if there would be a way for me to upgrade the vibration motor with something stronger ?. Thx.
Hi! You may have some success just changing the "Default Alarm Pattern" in Scheduler settings. By default it's two short buzzes, but you can make it 3 long buzzes (===) or even something custom which can make a big difference to how much you feel it. But in theory yes, you could change the motor. I did look at getting it changed but the manufacturer didn't want to do it because they were concerned the increased vibration and also power draw might cause problems, so I think you'd want to be careful.
Hello. Thanks for this nice video. I have a question about usability. This watch is defined as hackable, does it mean that I can run it right at the moment I unpack it from the box or do I have to create all the SW by myself? Other question : how good is the GPS? Regards
Hi! Yes, it's totally usable as a watch from the moment you get it from the box - there are hundreds of pre-made apps you can use, but if you do ever want to change it, all the source from those apps is easily available so it's easy to change the apps or make new ones. The GPS is fine for logging runs/etc, but you do really need to upload AGPS data using the app loader before you use it to ensure it'll get a fix in a few seconds (it's easy to forget that phones with an internet connection do it automatically). If you just start the GPS and leave it to find satellites on its own it can take several minutes or fail completely if you're moving the watch around a lot.
@@Espruino thank you for the clear detailed explanation. I come from the Tomtom Runner 2 and as you may know, Tomtom have discontinued their Sports activity to focus only on navigation. As a consequence, my watch is almost only a step and calories counter, and heart rate sensor without possibility of exporting data and running tracks. For this reason, I am looking for another option that wouldn't involve the dependence on dedicated servers that can live the same fate as Tomtom's. That is why the bangle.js sounds as a good alternative. Besides, regarding the GPS starting sequence, I had the same issue with my current watch and there was a QuickGPS function, so it is not much different. Thanks anyway.
would love a diy board that had the software pre-programmed
We do have a tool that lets you load pre-made code onto one of our boards with a few clicks from a web browser (espruino.com/apps) - if you're actually interested in this I could add the game, but even now it's really simple. Just go to www.espruino.com/Pixl.js+Pong then click the little coffee cup icon in the bottom right of the code there, click connect in the top left of the page that comes up, then the upload button, and it's done. You don't have to type a thing.
When re-assembling; which glue would work to get the display tight in place?
I'd suggest a "neutral cure" silicone sealant. The neutral bit is important though because acetoxy silicone sealant lets of acetic acid when it goes off, and that could corrode the PCB.
@@Espruino thank you
I recently got a purported Makita DHR242 rotary hammer drill with 2 18V 6Ah batteries and a DC18RC rapid charger. I also have a completely genuine DMP180 air pump with 2 18V 3Ah batteries and a real rapid charger. Just the 2 real 18V 3Ah batteries and rapid charger cost almost the same price as the DHR242 rotary hammer kit. Just looking at all the labelling, etc, it is hard to tell that hammer drill kit is not genuine. It works fine but there are some interesting differences. The purported DC18RC rapid charger has no fan and thus is very lightweight and takes close to 3 hours to charge the purported 6Ah battery. The non-genuine 6Ah batteries will not actually fit into the genuine rapid charger. If you press the release button, you will see a red mark on a genuine battery and these 6Ah batteries don't have it. The non-genuine 6Ah batteries won't actually slide into my DMP180. The genuine 3Ah batteries will slide into the purported DHR242 and actually run it just fine, but they don't slide into the non-genuine rapid charger. If you measure the voltage across the slide terminals for the 6Ah batteries it is sitting around 20V. When the 3Ah batteries are not slid into a device, there is no voltage you can read across the slide terminals.
Hi, is there a way to add infrared receiver to the board ?
There are two pins on the rear of the board (under the battery) called UARX/UATX which I think may be unused and you could maybe solder a sensor onto - but it'd be quite a big job to do. The standard IR sensors like www.espruino.com/IRReceiver are really just too big to fit in the watch itself
@@EspruinoFirst of all thank you for responding, great job with the projects man. I will try and do what you suggested unless you have another idea. I am aware of the spacing issue , that's why Im going to try to get in a case like the casio AE1200. Also not sure if there are any battery consumption concerns. I did try sending an email to the mentioning the a casio module like bangle. Let me know if you do like paid sessions so con ask you a couple of questions.
@@Espruino Was just reading and it seems I can just add a IR transmitter and use the receiver on the Puckjsv2 to get the codes. Do you think that would be easier ?
@@Marcos32709 adding an IR transmitter would definitely be easier - there are two pins, UARX/UATX on the board that you could just wire an IR LED across - although that would still mean peeling back the battery for access. It would be an interesting project but still quite difficult. If you're just trying to control a TV or something like that, just putting a Puck.js (which already has an IR transmitter) by the TV and then controlling the Puck from the Bangle via Bluetooth would be by far the easiest option.
This is making me want to buy a bangle.js 2. I have a bangle.js 1 right now! Amazing work
Incredible looking project. Can fitness tracking integrate with any apps? And do you have any advice on porting apple fitness data over?
On Android Gadgetbridge provides some logging of data, or if you record runs using the built-in GPS you can download the data in a format that works with Strava/etc - but there's no 'integration' as such, or ability to import data from Apple Watch. If you're seriously into health tracking and want a deep integration (and don't want to do some work yourself to get things exactly as you like them) then Bangle.js may not be for you I'm afraid.
@@Espruino Cool, thank you.
That's a nice looking screen. Is the backlight turned off completely when it sleeps, does it use electricity when it sleeps and is not updating? I wonder how easy it is to customize the operating system itself.
When the watch is running normally the screen is on and showing graphics, but the backlight is off. When the screen is showing stuff but has no backlight it's drawing virtually no power at all (about 10 millionths of a Watt!). It's very easy to customise the OS as well - for example there's an example of changing the built-in message screen at www.espruino.com/Bangle.js+Modification - but even if you want to go far deeper it's all Open Source and easy to compile and upload new binaries
Good~
I like my bangle 2 a lot!
Just had mine delivered, what a lovely package and high quality product, excellent video.
sad that the display is very dim and it’s unreplaceable though.
@@Jack_the_pngtuber at the very least the screen is transflective just like the pebble so it is actually extremely bright in the sun
@@exxon47_ yes but very inefficient for a torch app
where are the axis sensors and magentic sensors and barometric pressure sensor / altimeter sensor / temperature sensor?
I just added a labelled picture here showing where each IC is: www.espruino.com/Bangle.js2+Technical#pcb
Would using the Bangle.JS 2 with the web IDE over a Wired Connection allow me to get over the limitation of not being able to have the Bangle.JS 2 paired with an iPhone simultaneously?... If not, is there another work around?
You can't use a wired connection on Bangle.js 2 I'm afraid. You may be able to open www.espruino.com/ide/remote/ in a Web Bluetooth capable web browser on the iPhone and communicate with the Bangle that way though (you can then run espruino.com/ide on desktop and initiate a remote connection). On Android if you're using Gadgetbridge there's a remote connection button in Gadgetbridge's App Loader
Could I extend the amount of time it takes to do a reset (extend it past 10 seconds)?
Yes, if you do Bangle.setOptions({btnLoadTimeout:0});setInterval(()=>E.kickWatchdog(),1000) it'll never reset from a long-press - if you want to be able to reset it with a very long press, you can adjust the call to kickWatchdog to stop calling it after the button has been held for a certain amount of time
Great Smartwatch
I own one now. And I must say thank you for this great device. I have a PineTime and every thing I didn't like about that device is so much better on the Bangle js 2. The battery, the always on screen, the polished web interface, many aps, the settings, etc. Really such a great product!
My bulb seems to be different to yours. The bit that controls it is write only and you have to write a byte array of CC-23-33 for on and CC-24-33 for off, with the UUID being FFD5 and FFD9. Not sure where to go from there, but rtrying to figure it out.
Shame it's different, but since you know what to write you're 90% there now! It should be pretty easy to tweak the code - change the UUID strings to just 0xFFD5/etc and the byte array to [0xcc,0x23,0x33] and you'll be fine - feel free to post up on the forum if you have any issues though
@@Espruino I'll give it a go this coming weekend. Thanks for the encouragement.
Need one asap🎉. Was looking for an Open health tracker watch. Awesome product
this is such a cool project, but i had not heard about it until today. i will be getting one of these soon. i really like how much attention had been paid towards UX, lack of that is generally the downfall of these projects.
Thank you, very easy to follow walkthrough! is it possible to replace the battery?
Yes, although you do need to use a soldering iron. Because usually the Bangle can last over a week without recharging, it should be relatively unlikely that you have to replace it though.
🌴🌴🌴🌴🌴🌴🥭🥭🥭🥭🥭
Thanks for the guide
Thanks for the guide.
Excellent video/demo
MDBT42Q, Is this still the best mcu to use now in 2023 for espruino ?
The nRF52833 or nRF52840 offer more RAM, storage, USB and some newer Bluetooth features, but for the vast majority of uses the nRF52832 (in the MDBT42Q) is still more than good enough. When we release new boards we'll probably do so using the newer MCUs to future proof them though.
@@Espruino thanks!
Thanks for the video Gordon, loads of useful insights. Explains why my 3d printer heated bed wasn't unsticking the screen glue... I was too nervous about getting the temperature up high enough (chickened out in the 80 C's as I'd never had the print bed that hot before and I didn't have a secondary means of knowing what temperature the bed was to ensure it didn't go over 100C and damage the screen).
I came here to suggest that a 3D printer bed was an ideal tool for reaching a stable 100⁰C. ☮️❤️🌈
Yes - unfortunately I forgot to suggest a 3D printer bed in the video (which was one of the reasons I did this!). You have to be careful if you have a magnetic bed as they can lose their magnetism around 100 degrees C, but I routinely run my cheap Ender 3 heated bed at 80 (sometimes over) for ABS prints and it's been ok.
@@Espruino it's an Ender print bed with a cheap PEI spring steel magnetic print surface. I hadn't even considered damage to the magnetic sheet. Hot air from a soldering station works wonders. Minimum I could set it to was 100° and I aimed at the perimeter of the screen, trying to target the glue.
Did you notice on the Makita one the third exposed metal sliding contact is actually two separate pairs electrically isolated? I'm trying to find out why because I have a BL1830 which is rejected by the drill. Charge indicator on the power tool says it is full (it is 20V across the outer slide connectors) and it works if I unlatch and slide it out 1 mm, but press it fully home and the tool work light operates when I pull the trigger but the motor does not run. The near part of the third contact is at the same voltage as the +ve terminal but the far part is at the voltage of the -ve terminal on this rejected battery - on a good one it is also at the +ve terminal voltage. What function does it serve? Curiously, the charger does not connect to the +ve terminal, instead it joins the two parts of the third contact together and uses them for charging.
Wow, that's interesting! No, I'd never noticed that. Maybe it allows the drill battery to detect if it is inserted into a drill that has a connection to that third pin (which would short them together)? It doesn't really explain why half-sliding it in would make the drill work though!
The drill connects to the furthest part of the third sliding connector, the near part if it is not pressed fully home. If the drill contact is at the +ve potential the drill works fully. If it is at the -ve potential the drill work light operates as normal but the motor does not. Clearly this allows the battery to disable the high current part of the drill. Same in other power tools no doubt. I suppose it could be used if the battery temperature was too high or the cells were too imbalanced.
@@murdo_mckthe deepest of the 2 pins is a signalling pin. High means the tool is allowed to run, low means tool won't run. I cover it in my 6th video. Unfortuantely I don't think you'll be able to fix your battery. The BMS has likely permanently locked itself.
@@toolscientist I was able to get this battery to work with the Makita charger and the drill. It had been rejected by the charger either 1 or 2 times only before I replaced the cells so the BMS had not locked. I shorted together the front and back contacts of the third slider (the small split one) together with the battery positive slider. BTW it is a 3.0 Ah first generation (no charge indicator) BL1830. Thank you for your video, it is reassuring to know I'm probably missing out only on low voltage protection which I can do without. I have confirmed it charges to the same end point voltage as an unmodified battery and the cells remain balanced.
Drill go “burr, burr”
Code works in Arduino?
This code is for something called Espruino (espruino.com) not Arduino - however you could write your own code and could do something similar with Arduino