Video

Now that I have completed my repair I realize how to do it much quicker and easier. If you don't have a lift removing the shift mechanism allows you to only spend ten or fifteen minutes under the car. Here are my suggestions that add to your video. First, get both the linkage and the shift mechanism bushings. If your linkage bushing needs replacing your mechanism bushings probably need replacing. These bushing fail over time, they degrade and fall apart. Then remove the front transmission shift arm. If the tranny is in D or 2 you can get a 1/4" socket and extension on the 10mm nut. Adjust the transmission gear to make it possible, it goes much faster with a ratchet. Take a picture of the shaft to ensure you put it back in the right way. The third step is to remove the clip from the back. They you can get the whole assembly out and install the front clip before reinstall. Push on the front bushing and reassemble, including the front clip. The next step I recommend is removing the shift mechanism from the top. This does two things, you get to inspect the bushings in the mechanism and it makes it very easy to push the rear bushing into place. I spent about an hour trying to get the socket assembly mounted on the back shift lever arm to push it in from the bottom of the car, and then more time because you can only turn wrenches on the 300TD wagons a small amount due to the parking brake cable. With the shifter out it is trivial to push the bushing on to the shift linkage. I also recommend two washers on the bushing end of the press assembly with a socket to minimize distortion on the end you push on, a large one that fits down by the lip and a small one so the nut can push the large washer is well. You can check the bushings and service as needed. If I had followed this order I would have completed my job in under an hour or 1.5 hours. I took over four hours, most of it under the car.

Your intro had me scared ... I thought you were going to leave the block unpainted and a hodgepodge of many colors. I guess I should have read the title more carefully. A shame to paint those pretty heads though ... I get the stock look thing, but I would guess that anyone looking at your engine compartment ... you're probably going to tell them they are aluminum anyway. I might have stuck with the thick valve cover gaskets ... Just that much more clearance for your rockers and goofy valve cover tabs.

Where you getting all you ac stuff worked on?

Hi, do you have a manual choke on your carburetor? My car won’t turn on. My linkage on the carburetor to the manual choke is locked. And I’m assuming that’s causing the car not to turn on. Any suggestions? And where I can find the choke. My 472 is from a 1969 deville

Thanks for this helpful video about shift bushings on the 300td. I had replaced the rear bushing but had not found a way to get access to the front. After watching the entire video, I use sockets and bolts to press things regularly, the last minute was exactly what I needed. For some reason I had ruled out moving the shifter for better access to the front. The tip about putting it in L was exactly what I needed to hear.

Looks good.👍

Great video guys.

My advise is to clear coat the heads with wheel or engine clear. Either should hold up to heat. Bare aluminum turns into dull dust. As me how I know with my coyote looking like it’s been covered in dust. Also I would paint the fuel pump in aluminum paint same as the intake plenum. Otherwise a beautiful engine for sure! Sexy looking even!

Hi again, Mr. Impalaman, my favorite MBZ126 Guru😄 Thanks for the tire change video. I want to change front brake pads on my 126 but I am fearful of using a 3 ton floor jack to raise the front ( and then use jack stands and/or floor jack for added support)). Raising a 126 front end is scary lifting on the cross member. I have raised the rear end on the differential, no problem but that is scary also. If I use the Mercedes jack to raise the front tire so I can remove the tire (and do one side at a time) where could I place a floor jack and a jack stand for additional safety ?. I'm thinking a jack stand under the lower control arm (spring) and floor jack under cross member once vehicle is raised with tire off ground. This will be done on level concrete floor and one side at a time.. Thanks for any response. 😁

Thank you for posting this. It allowed me to simplify the vacuum system as well as alleviate (possibly cure!) a poor shifting syndrome my 84 had (shifts up very quick but refuses to kick down for more power). At the very least it is no longer polluting my intake with soot!

That engine is looking mighty, mighty good! I like the fact that you retaining basically the stock look. I guess you have decided to retain the original a/c system?

What the compression ratio of the engine now? Did I miss it on the last video?

Starting to look like your shop is shrinking. You going to add on?

If you had Lath, you could have made some nice round spacers. That's why I bought one. If I only power had power connected already.

I've been doing all the same kind of stuff this week for my truck. About to put the transmission back together tomorrow, got the engine ready to go a few days ago. I suppose it would have been more fun if I weren't sick doing it all lol. Those valve covers do look really nice.

Is it possible to just buy this thin metal strip somewhere? I've looked and it seems like door sill trim replacements include this metal strip. But can't find just the metal strip.

That view from the front shows those curves real nice ! If holes have to go in or grow for upgrades i am ok with them, especially when well detailed... like those pipes ! 👍

Been a while, missed a few I see. Look forward to catching up 👍 Lucky like 13 for ya !

3:28 Man, why did they think a restriction let alone a lot if them,would be a good idea, along with the potential for contamination?

Как трос засунули обратно????? Почему не показали?? Я не могу трос обратно засунуть, не идёт обратно. Что делать?

What size are the screws to mount the sending unit?

Your shoes will be waterproof for a while. 😁

U must have gotten there before the Line Formed.

Looking forward to the start-up video. Won't be long now!

I’m about to remove the L82 engine from my ‘78 and have the same engine stand. What size/length of bolt did you use to attach the engine to the stand. Great videos btw.

How u get the piston out before u take the nut off

I’d think IT pros have got to be meticulous.

That engine is coming along very very nice!

Slow and steady does it. Happy Father's Day, my friend.

I saw a cyber truck in person today. IMHO it is an odd and ugly looking thing. Even if someone gave me one, I wouldn't want it. But to someone else it may be beautiful, just not for me.

I'm enjoying your Corvette videos! Just wondering about the lock nuts holding the baffle on, they are not the type with nylon inserts? I would think an "all metal type" of lock nut is required.

1984 300SD 214,000 (TMU) has new nozzles balanced injectors, EGR and ALDA delete and vacuum system set up for those changes. Car has plenty of power, pulls hills well and I rarely, close to never use full throttle. Most driving is 45-50 mph on twisty rural 2 lane, mileage is 30 mpg, +/- a fraction.

I've been out of the country for a few months so I have a whole bunch of videos to make up for. And Rick is starting off already in the first one I'm watching. I think a drone attack is overdue... 😏😏😏

Looks like my pinewood derby car I made 44 years ago…. Amazing body design🤭

I have a 1983 Cadillac deville hearse and I can’t figure out how to put on the belt that drives the alternator and the cooling fan any advice?

Redneck Alabama never seen a EV besides a fried okra. 😂

I missed the part where you set up the end play on that roller cam, the cam button.

A load of useful information, thank you

I will keep my Raptor thanks.

AS IS 😂😂😂

Pretty sure the manual says to do the set up with dry bearings???

How much is a base model

Any chance you give me a couple tips where you found yours? I looked under the bed. Maybe I’m just blind, but I cannot find it anywhere. My buzzers drive me nuts. It’ll go on and act like it’s zero air pressure one of the gauges and then a few minutes later it’ll pop right back up like it’s normal and it runs fine. I know it’s the same issue, but I just cannot find this panel anywhere.

thanks , friend for the information By chance you would have for the SEL 280 Motor 110 version, thanks!

Hahaha 🤣

Junk

Was about time always this lollygagging here, 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻

I've got a 90 560SEC. Still has R12. It's my go to car on 90 degree days. By far the coolest I own.

what speed did you drive ? 75 Mph ?