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FlashDriveFilms
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Registrace 6. 12. 2009
FlashDriveFilms is all about making Cars and Travel, Hisotry and Economics.
Honda Element Exhaust Note
Shout out to DedicatedCheapSkaters' request to hear what the replacement exhaust sounded like.
zhlédnutí: 38
Video
Honda Element New Exhaust
zhlédnutí 950Před 7 měsíci
Replacing Honda Element exhaust for fun and....savings? Cat Back exhaust system: amzn.to/3OdZduq Rubber Mounts: amzn.to/4b52x4z Flange Repair kit: amzn.to/3ObtWrV CARB compliant catalytic converter: amzn.to/494iJkL Upstream O2 sensor: amzn.to/3S4auOZ Downstream O2 sensor: amzn.to/42evjvJ Exhaust gasket: amzn.to/424ZVzO Safety Glasses: amzn.to/42evuan Leather gloves: amzn.to/495XCPn WD-40: amzn....
Honda Element ABS and VSA light on!!
zhlédnutí 11KPřed 11 měsíci
Three error lights ?!!! What did they have in common? Honda Element Wheel Sensor (right front): amzn.to/3PsorVJ Honda Element Wheel Sensor (left front): amzn.to/3PqrSMn Honda Element Wheel Sensor (right rear): amzn.to/46mLnfE Honda Element Wheel Sensor (left rear): amzn.to/3LwSudr (As an Amazon Affiliate I can earn from certain purchases.)
2023 Lime Rock Historics Sights & Sounds
zhlédnutí 153Před 11 měsíci
Montage of cars & races at the 2023 Lime Rock Park Fall Historics .
Watch me get dressed to film a Brake Job
zhlédnutí 99Před rokem
After ruining regular clothes over the years, I have a set ritual for putitng on my car repair "play clothes".
How to Replace Honda Element Rear Sway Bar Link
zhlédnutí 885Před rokem
You never know what you'll find when you DIY your car. Working on brakes, I found a broken sway bar link. (As an Amazon Affiliate, I can earn from eligible purchases.) swaybar link: amzn.to/42uuVYF swaybar link: amzn.to/3oWrKuS Ratcheting wrenches: amzn.to/43ytf1z Allen wrenches: amzn.to/3WXFW3v rotary tool: amzn.to/42Bkx1h Safety glasses: amzn.to/3qDpVDK gloves: amzn.to/3oWpeF0
Honda Element Parking Brake Cable
zhlédnutí 1,6KPřed rokem
Honda Element has an easy to reach adjuster for the parking brake cable
New Fiat 124 Spider Caliper Puts A Stop To It
zhlédnutí 1,6KPřed 2 lety
New Fiat 124 Spider Caliper Puts A Stop To It
Hidden Honda Belt Tensioner Secret Markings !
zhlédnutí 18KPřed 3 lety
Hidden Honda Belt Tensioner Secret Markings !
Mercedes W201 190E Fuel Pump Relay also W124
zhlédnutí 89KPřed 3 lety
Mercedes W201 190E Fuel Pump Relay also W124
1969 Nova 455 SS (B-roll field test) Carlisle 2020
zhlédnutí 220Před 4 lety
1969 Nova 455 SS (B-roll field test) Carlisle 2020
Mercedes-Benz Power Steering Filter Fluid Change Most Models
zhlédnutí 11KPřed 4 lety
Mercedes-Benz Power Steering Filter Fluid Change Most Models
Time to Mount Snow Tires on My Mercedes W201 190E
zhlédnutí 1,1KPřed 4 lety
Time to Mount Snow Tires on My Mercedes W201 190E
The Phone Booths and Phone Cards of France are disappearing !
zhlédnutí 1,1KPřed 4 lety
The Phone Booths and Phone Cards of France are disappearing !
Thx for your help ❤️🌹👍
Any videos of the new exhaust sound?
Coming right up! I'll post it under "Honda Element Exhaust Note"
Thank you! Great video! 🇺🇸 My 1993 isn't like this, but still gives me direction!
Thanks! Yes, any of the 1990 and newer will have a different fuel pump relay.
@FlashDriveFilms yes, the MAS relay. But it's not the problem with mine. I have fuel and spark and no start. It will start for a short time after it sits, but will stall with any kind of load put on it. Then it stalls and may restart or sputter then eventually to just a crank no start and adding fuel to the (b owl) doesn't help
Thank you for this!!!! Not to mention, my Element is the same color as yours haha
Which goes to show you are not only a prudent car buyer, but that you have excellent taste.
The H85 wouldn’t fit my Vickers pump. Flushed but couldn’t change filter.
That is unusual. I haven't found any Mercedes from the mid 80s to the mid 90s at least that didn't use the exact same power steering filter. Maybe it was a retrofit? Or from a market outside of North America?
It would have been nice if you showed how you removed the cables from the caliper bracket and arm.
Sorry about that. I know it was inconsiderate of me to not cover everything completely all at once. A full refund is headed your way right now.
Now show up how to do the rear caliper with the hand brake cables attached.
This is a great video that helps Mercedes-Benz owners.
Thanks! That is what I hope for in any of my car videos.
Thank You, Very well done , and very Professional.
Thank you!
Good video thanks
Glad you liked it! Thanks!
Excellent...love the soundtrack too
@@civi3653 thanks thanks! I really enjoyed making this one!
Awesome video . I have a 1997 SL320 R129 . I'm changing the front wheel bearings and brakes . I took off the spindle bearings dust cap . I used an allen wrench to unloosen the spindle nut . The nut is really tight , taking it off . Can i separate the collar, to make it easier to get the nut back on the spindle . I'm fearful that i may cross thread the spindle threads , screwing the nut back on because its really tight . What are your thoughts. Thank you.
Well the nut *should* be pretty snug. Definitely check the threads on the spindle and inside the nut to make sure they are not damaged. (It may have previously been cross-threaded or forced on) Also, I've seen some where the bit of copper spring intended to reduce radio static was partially jammed into the threads. If you do decide to spread the nut, remove the screw entirely first, and don't go crazy with the force on it. You don't want to split the whole thing with a chisel, for instance.Grease things generously. And, good luck !
@@FlashDriveFilms, thank you for your reply. After I took off the nut , there wasn't a thrust washer , the nut was against the bearing. I looked online for a washer but couldn't find one . I may use a thin regular washer temporarily. I'm going to be very careful when reassembling everything. I'm going to attempt to install the spindle nut without separating it and if I can't , I'll separate it . This is the third R129 I've owned . They are awesome cars . Thank you again.
Tempus fugit, at last i am on the road in my SL, it passed the UK gov check with flying colours, I've only done short journeys so far, AND i noticed both cooling fans running, after a short distance, Around 9 months back i thought i had a water pump problem the engine boiled up so bought a new pump, and today i am fitting it, in between rain showers, well it is Cheshire UK , similar to Seattle when i lived there for 6 months. Rain cities i think. I was parked outside my sons school ( I'm and older papa ) and a red VW hatch stopped with a blonde teacher driving it, she looked at me and said what a beautiful car, nice lady ! I replied i bought it for my fiftieth birthday , she laughed and said i did the same with this, so my classic line was, Oh two weeks ago then, i had noticed the year on her registration plate, she laughed and drove off. I guess unexpected things happen when you drive a 1990 SL even on highways i get cars slowing down and pacing me then the thumbs up with big smiles.. 12 years ago i said to my Thai wife i will take my SL back to Thailand, NO WAY she said, as its far too sexy a car and girls will jump into the front seat, WOW she was serious, guess some ladies there have a habit of stealing other ladies husbands but not me i am a happy man. Here's what i did, i put the car in my wife's name, if she owns it for 5 years then she can import it to Thailand and AVOID import duty plus tax at 80% of the cars original value. So sometime in the future the SL may make it to warmer climes . But for now i have to figure out how to loosen that serpentine belt, your video has pointed me in the right direction. Lastly darn fuel gauge stuck at a quarter, i have to get to the sender unit that's going to be a pain but its do-able .Best regard from Cheshire UK and sometimes Sisaket Thailand.
Well it has been a minute, last I knew you were doing things with the brakes, fuel pump & radiator. I forget if yours is a 6 cylinder or and 8. In any event, I did the water pump on my '90 300SL , back in 2016, and had the devils' own time with it. It's not a simple 4-bolt arrangement, like many cars. On the M104 engines it is tight up under the intake manifold and has a wide assortment of sensors and fasteners to remove. Second hardest car service I've ever done. (the worst being a clutch replacement on an X1/9: mid-engined and done on jack stands in a dirt driveway. Turned into a 7 hour ordeal.) There's an O-ring where the pump body meets the block. Put a dab of axle grease on it to hold it in place when you instal the new pump so it doesn't slip, get pinched, and leak straight away. (ask me how I know.) Anyway, best of luck on your automotive & international adventures!
Wow what a great video You provided~. very informative..
Thank you !
Thank you for this , my car stalls coming to lights sometimes and when I turn suddenly right it instantly cuts out , another gentleman man told me it could be a loose connection where the fuel pump relay sits, so I will need to check that then check the solder on the board , my car is a 1990 2.6 so it has everything combined in the MAS relay
Yes, even with the newer MAS system, a loose connector or bad ground, or even older fuse, is enough the stall out the pump relay. Definitely check those connectors and fuses.
Hey man. I have a w140 s280 that has the same tensioner setup. I don’t know how but I keep snapping the rods and the belt doesn’t seem to tighten at all :( any idea ?
Truthfully, I've never worked on a W140. The best I can guess is to make sure the center bolt that clamps the tensioner is loose enough to allow it to move. I actually snapped a rod years ago because I was trying to tighten it against a tensioner that wasn't free to rotate. I loosened that center bolt, and the tensioner worked as it should.
good night . Changing the sensor turned off the lights.
Added to favourites;)
Thank you!
Thanks for the excellent video. I've watched it a few times before I start my brake compensator replacement. What is confusing though is that you say "relax the valve body" - e.g. the "L" shaped end of the connecting rod should not be pushing against the piston. But you say to wedge the bar up with a block of wood. Wouldn't that push the other end of the rod into the piston? I would think allowing the rod to hang down, unattached to the clevis/axle would alleviate pressure on the piston since the other end would move away from contacting it. Once I get the old parts out and begin to reinstall the new compensator it will likely reveal what I need to do. I know I need to fabricate a measuring arm to attach to the pivot hole on the end of the actuating arm so I can set the correct position of the arm before tightening the compensator mounting bolts.
Excellent question. Bear in mind, the idea is to interpose the block of wood in such a way as to simulate the axle being closest to the body. That is when the valve body allows the free flow of fluid. Visualize how the linkage/rod/valve body interact when under braking. The brakes are on, the body shifts forward on the suspension and tilts downwards at the front, unloading the rear springs and tilting the body up and away from the axle. Think of how the linkage and rod react, stemming the flow of fluid to the rear calipers to avoid lockup as mass shifts forward. Then imagine how to place the wood block so that the conditions match the car in a level, neutral position. That is the position that allows the freest flow of fluid to the calipers during brake bleeding. (maybe I need to make another video that shows this more clearly) Also: be sure to check out Auto Ricambis' excellent video on the brake compensator replacement. czcams.com/video/vHR4BHspRdI/video.htmlsi=xbRUn2u6wzx2zuRQ (and no, I'm not Sponsored)
Update: I also added some more photos of the shop manuals about this in the comment section of my community tab. Hopefully they help with your compensator project.
@@FlashDriveFilms I appreciate the quick replies. I believe I was under the wrong assumption that if the piston is pushed in by the rod end it was limiting fluid flow. The added manual info suggested that in actuality it is opposite of what I was thinking. So if the rod end that attaches to the axle moves up it pushes the "L" end into the piston and that is when the greatest fluid flow is allowed. Thank you.
I wiped out my last comment and your replies. Your video is correct. My car had repurposed front brake pads used in the rear. The front pads do not have the little tit on the pad to keep the piston from rotating. This forces the rotation to occur within the piston itself with thrust on the Torrington bearing. They seem to work just fine though letting the piston rotate on front brake pads, at least once the system is bled of air properly. The indexing can just as easily have the slot down and horizontal as the same gap for expelling air is on both top and bottom when the thrust plate inside the piston is oriented correctly during assembly of the piston. Thanks again for the video!
Is no thing, my brother. I'm just trying to give out the best information I have to help people enjoy their favorite cars longer. ( I think of my car knowledge as like one of those primordial seas, broad, but very shallow.)
I bet having a car with 4-wheel disc brakes in the 60s was wild wasn't it.
The whole car was pretty special at the time. It combined traditional aspects of wood and canvas (like an old sailboat might have) with some pretty high-spec features: Double Overhead Cam engine with an aluminum head, 5-speed transmission, full instrumentation (in an era drifting towards idiot lights) and, as you mentioned, 4 wheel disc brakes. Topped by one of the worlds' easiest to operate fabric roofs.
Great video, are the R129 foglights on the cannbus i.e. do the y flag bulb errors if I use LEDs instead
Thanks! I never tried LEDs. I suspect if you just used them for one thing, like just the fog lights or just the turn signals, it might work. But if you replaced all the bulbs with LEDs it probably would light the dash indicator for bulb out.
@@FlashDriveFilms Actually I am an idiot, they do, your video shows this the bulb warning light is on
Good to know. As I said, I never tried LEDs in that car.
You don't need to compress the spring just support under arm remove ball joint nut prie shocker and hub assembley and move it out the way then use tool to remove ball joint done it many time ball joint is more faf to get out than anything else
What size diameter are those hoses? Thanks
These were fuel line hoses of 5/16" or 8mm I.D.
Thank you for this video, however my Mercedes 190E 2.3 m102 (4 cyl - 8 valve) 1993; has 10 pins in total, 6 in one row, 4 in the other row. Did MB change the pin out during the 190E years?
Yes, depending on the year and what market it was sold. In, (USA, Europe, Africa etc) the number and function of the pins did change. By 93 there was a cold start valve ( essentially a fifth fuel injector) with its own electronics altered for newer emissions requirements in some markets. That may be why your relay is different. Or you may have the relay from a different model that has been previously swapped in. The center pins still power the pump from the key.
@@FlashDriveFilms Hey just wanted to say thanks! Finally got the correct pin layout for my 190E and the fuel pump was entirely the culprit.
Tip 1...the Mark A orientation...I find many sources having a hard time with the wording..."turn the Mark up"...??? Clockwise? Cheers.
Rotation direction doesn't matter. The piston will rotate either way.Turn the piston clockwise, or anti-clockwise, to end up with the reference line/mark on the upper side.
@@FlashDriveFilms Thanks..I didn't have to time to craft my wording ....just like all the others ..lol...When I put the caliper back on the car..then it will have a reference. We could use many words to describe...North, South< Fore and Aft...
Very useful thanks
Wery usefull video thanks. Are the cylinders( 19&46 vs 44&47really different in design or can you use the same type on both sides?
They are actually different from each other. It has to do with how they are mounted relative to the hard line connections. Held next to each other they are like mirror images.
@@FlashDriveFilms Many thanks! That is good info. I have a small leak in one of mine sl280 from -97, need to carefully check i replace the right one!
OBD code will indicate which wheel has bad sensor.
I am getting a ticking noise coming from this area and grinding on tight turns so I will get this done asap. Great video thanks!
How do you release the tension if you only changing the alternator
You can loosen the belt by prying the tensioner pulley with a large screwdriver/prybar. ( the tensioner is springy) That should slacken the belt enough to slip it off the alternator. Or loosen the center bolt on the tensioner and run the 13mm adjuster rod back (remember it is reverse threads) to achieve the needed slack to pop the belt off the alternator pulley.
@@FlashDriveFilms so clockwise to loosen it and anti clockwise to tighten it, mine does not have the screw in the middle of the tensioner, it has that 10mm hex
Correct. Some came with a 10mm hex bolt. Most were an allen-head cap screw . Don't remove it, just loosen it a little to get the tensioner to pivot when you slacken the adjuster rod.
@@FlashDriveFilms ok thanks a lot, I really appreciate your help
It seems like you tight the belt going clock wise, and where do you please get the parts, I really need to get my mercedes back on the road
Good day mate , you are a Legend 💪🤝 thank you so very much for your time effort to bring shares us your knowledge on W124 ,,, Mate I have problem as I replace water pump after I fill everything bake now time for the belt to install and I found out the yellow tensioner pulley missing 🤦♂️ I have not seen it since I start take pump out ,, now engine shaking and misfire,,, any idea how to do it ,without yellow tensioner pulley ??? Thank you again Cheers Matt
I have honestly never encountered that before. Do you mean the whole pulley is missing or just the yellow plastic tension indicator? I know the indicator also acts as a sort of spacer and that may upset the operation of the pulley. I don't know if that would lead to misfiring though.
@@FlashDriveFilms Thank u so very much for your quick reply 💪🫡Yes the yellow plastic tensioner arrow missing Before it was running like a dream no issue at all ,,, everything else could cause any misfire all changed car serviced regularly,, tomorrow I will see my mates if they have anything for me if not I’ll buy it online until then I’ll see in mm the difference and add a washer as a temporary replacement! Many thanks and I’ll get back to you with results 🫡 Cheers Matt
Just as an idea, look carefully at the connectors on the front of the engine, especially the crank position sensor down low on the front pulley. If you brushed against that it might have bent the bracket or loosened the connector enough to influence the engine firing.
@@FlashDriveFilms Mate guess what 😊🤦♂️😄 before I start working on E280 I washed her with pressure washing machine with car after I covered what need to be covered even tho with care , so I just remember today 😁😅 and I take all spark plugs each one by one each one I blow it out with my air compressor then clean spark plug with carbby cleaner then blow the inside all cylinders just incase 😅all done 4 cylinders was full of water 😁 now it runs like it was before with no drama, the belt I did it with four steps until I could find the right spot that I undo the pulley bolt then turn the belt tensioner adjustment one half turn the tight the bolt then undo again and repeat it 4 times of course each time I start car until I get there ,,,, thank you again for you kind and care and for thinking for the other possibility kind thinking so I can solve my problem/issue , for me you are a Legend 🤝💪🙏😎🫡 Wish you all the best in the world 🫡 Cheers Matt
Excellent. Glad to hear it worked out and is running fine again.
Thank You very much.💯👍👍
Welcome 👍
Very instructive and calming. I did find that my new hoses were not very flexible and so they had to slightly contort to align correctly with the hard line and then with the caliper. I positioned it so that the curve to the line was up and should stretch straight when turning and only more tightly curl when turning the other way. I also noticed you are working on the car over an oriental rug. Hopefully it is a replica and not an original. Thanks again.
Thank you! I always found the key thing with the lines was getting the clips back in at the bracket where the steel meets the flexible lines. Then I realized the clips are asymmetrical and will slip in easily when flipped correctly. The rug in the video has been the subject of considerable comment on the channel for some time now. It is, off course, a remarkable replica, rendered in a plastic derived from used soda bottles. Substantially cheaper than the usual rubber matts made for garage floors, and I think, slightly more elegant.
Muito bom , parabens o.meu e ano 91 190 E esoecificou o oleo no video ! Show
Wow, so detailliert und anschaulich! Wirklich perfekt! Sind die benötigten Werkzeuge verlinkt? Vielen Dank und weiter so!
Danke! Ich schätze es wirklich. Ja, die von mir verwendeten Tools finden Sie im Beschreibungsbereich unten.
I've replaced rear callipers with Nissin marked A10CL. Rear brake pads Nissin npo-132wsa or compatible for Odyssey. Bolt on installation. The callipers are bigger, hammer is useful toot to clear some extra space for installation :)
Hey buddy! This is super interesting. Mine just gotten stuck open and the emergency mechanism won’t work either. Any ideas as to why that is? Perhaps the cable is jammed somewhere? The electric button is working but only to move it an inch or so
If you can grip the leading edge of the sliding panel and pull it or give it a yank while advancing the electric switch it may come unstuck.Sometimes there is just a twist in the cable or a flat spot on the electric motor armature. I am surprised you can't advance it with the hex drive in the trunk. Hopefully not something really bent in there.
@@FlashDriveFilms my situation is the exact opposite of this. My sunroof got run into the front deflector and now won’t go back. Like it’s jammed. I can hear the motor trying but no movement. Can I get to the manual drive and undue it the same as here?
I am planning on using 15W-40 Rotella. That is what hundreds of forums have recommended to use.
Excellent choice. Shell makes good oils and the 15w-40 is an ideal option for older Fiat engines. I use the Castrol 20w-50 primarily in hot weather and because it is a little less expensive. (and I'm a cheapskate)
I dont believe this goes for honda s2000s. I just purchased a brand new oem tensioner assembly and the lines don't match up at all
Hmmm.. Even after it is installed on the car with the belt on it? (it's not going ot line up right out of the box. It needs the tension of the belt on the engine to align correctly.)
I can't understand how many relays there are in Mercedes. Which coded relay should I use for my 1987 300 sel automatic? 003 545 24 05, 002 545 52 05, 002 545 27 05, how can I tell which is the original relay of my vehicle?
Good video thanks. Can I ask - How did you power the motor when on the bench|? I have a W124 stripped (Engine out) and now I need to open the sunroof. Great cars.
Thanks! I used a small 12V gel-cell battery that I had around the shop with a couple of alligator clips. (as I vaguely remember) if you are working on a W124, I can highly recommend a channel: MMWA. I believe he is based in Australia and does some truly excellent work on those models. (including a series videos about the sunroof)
I am working on replacing ball joints for my W124. I feel so lucky to find your video! Thanks for showing how to replacing them instead of replacing entire control arms. I just purchased the same tool from your link.
I got the same problem with starting the engine but after I pluged out the relay I was confused. My 190e Is 4cyl and my relay has 6 pins. Can you give me some advice please? Thx
Thanks, I did this a couple of years ago with almost the same issues. Always great to have Links to Parts . Be Blessed
Très bon travail