Video

@@mackbolan1733 I have not. I need to get a bottle to try. However, on Facebook, MariaZN posted a comparison of the two in the Phrozen 3D Printer group. The TGM-7 was a bit stronger.

@@warkingminiatures Thanks for the reply. I'm currently using TGM-7 for minis, but it is super expensive, I was hoping that this RPG resin would be comparable as it is cheaper...

No loss in detail. I leave mine in the vat for weeks at a time sometimes. Just be sure to mix it very well before printing again. It does tend to separate over time.

Great question! I print their presupported models. Atlas does their supports and they have been really good. I use the 60/40 mix, and sometimes, I will need to add a little extra help to the models. I always run them as is at first. If I have failures, then I can add support, and all is well. Over the past 6 or 8 months, their supports have gotten even better for the soft mix I'm using. Generally, it's a larger model that gets a little extra help. I've also noticed that the mix doesn't do well with unsupported long and thin objects like a staff or support. I have had to add small supports along the shaft to keep it from shifting. I also use a 1.2mm shaft diameter support with a .2mm tip. I will vary the tip size depending on what exactly I'm supporting on the model. Speaking of supports, removing them with this mix is blissful. I warm them up with a hair dryer and just bend the rafts for probably 80% of the supports. Their Behir model was the best for this method. The supports opened up like a flower revealing the model ready to be plucked. Haha, it was great! Maybe I'll print that one again and get a video of it this time.

@@warkingminiatures Thanks for the response. Very helpful. I am always careful not to make the printing process harder or messier than it needs to be 🙂 However I am willing for a bit of extra mess, if this means my players dare touch a mini I have spend hours painting. A showcase mini is cool and all, but if you are too afraid to touch it, it kind of lose its purpose in my opinion :-)

Yes, Onyx helps a lot. You can find a couple other videos on my channel where I do testing of the Aqua 8k vs 80/20 vs 60/40 and a video comparing a Conjure 8k with Conjure Tough mixture to the AG8k with Onyx mix.

When I first worked up the Phrozen mix, I compared 80/20 and 60/40 to straight Aqua Gray 8k. The details were not lost to my eye, but gained a lot of durability. For what I got from the 60/40 Conjure, I don't think a heavier mix will retain the details I'm looking for, and I also wasn't impressed with the durability from that mix. Yes, Phrozen is more expensive, but the added durability and detail retention is worth it to me. I have the Phrozen mix testing video on my channel if you want to see more from that mix.

@swedish.sweink send me a bottle and I'll do it. I've found that I prefer the premium resins for my needs. From helping many people dial in their resins and printers, Ive learned that the less expensive resins dont perform as well as the premium stuff. So, I'm not really interested in the more affordable stuff. I have premium demands of the resins I use and want to produce the best model I can regardless of resin cost. With that, the Ameralabs TGM-7 is on my list of resin to check out.

Message me on Discord warkingminiatures

@@warkingminiatures will do!

@@warkingminiatures can’t find you on discord

@@enigmaticreverieproduction5169 what's your discord name? I'll see if I can find you.

@@warkingminiatures DiarrheaBurnz :) lol and yes my kids love my username haha

I print gaming miniatures with it. If your gears need to hold high torque, then you may want a full strength Onyx Impact Plus.

Awesome, great idea!

Hello, what type of enclosure did you use? I think i'm gonna buy this printer soon

@@1337FLINT. I used the biggest creality enclosure. But I also DIYed a lot of additional stuff, like building a ventilator in the enclosure and a vent to the outside. I used the biggest one because it houses a wash & cure machine as well. Both have a cap that can be lifted off the machines while completely inside the enclosure. And of course it is during that action that the ventilator is most important. While the caps are on the machines the resin fumes stay mostly inside. I have actually been toying with the idea of making some youtube videos about building this. Most of the elements I designed to be printed on my FDM 3d printer. I think the option to have that enclosure with an air filter inside it might be viable.

@@Konradius001 Noted, maybe i'll try to find it on you tube, since it's my first printer. Also i have a question, is that okay to print in a room that don't have air conditioner? i think i will put the printer in my living room, near the window. Thanks for advance

@@1337FLINT. Well, already you are putting more thought into this than others who print with potentially hazardous materials. There are people who just use such a printer in their living room and cope with the funny smell. The real problem there is that the fumes might have adverse long term effects. I think you might be fine with an enclosure and an air purifier, but don't make health decisions based on a random comment by a random internet user like me. I like my own setup (and I cannot show you as I have not made a video and might never do so), and I do not smell the stuff outside the enclosure and actually not even in the enclosure in between printing. If I check the enclosure during printing I have a mask with good filters.

You should always run your own tests to develop your settings. My settings vary across my printers. On my Saturn 2: Layer height .020mm Bottom layers 8 Transition layers 8 Bottom exposure 60s Normal exposure 7s Wait before Lift. 5s Wait after retract 4s Lift height 9mm Lift speed 40mm/min Retract speed 180mm/min

For the 60/40 mix I use 4.8s exposure, .020 layer height, 4s wait before print, 3mm x 3mm lift height, 40mm/min and 180mm/min, 4mm x 2mm retract distance, 180mm/min and 60mm/min, 6 bottom layers, 45s bottom exposure (iirc), 6 transition layers.

🤣 might as well have, it was raining the day it was delivered. I tried to orient the box so the saturated side wasn't as visible in the video. Obviously you can see the mess it left on the table. 😆

I have the same concern as far as venting. Time will tell.

I prefer to remove the arm completely, as I did with my Mini 8k printers. Good idea though for those that don't have the tools or experience to remove the arm.

I'd be happy to print an example for you if you want to send me a file.

Yes indeed! I think I mentioned that in this video briefly. Haha, I saw his video just before I wrapped up the voice dubbing on this video.

Thanks, that means a lot. My videos aren't flashy by any means, just want to get the info out there so everyone else can make the best decision for their needs.

hey. I resemble that remark! ;)