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I ordered an 11 tooth sprocket for 25H chain. They are very cheap and pretty universal. The one that came with the motor kit was of a different size.

@@Newwinggarage and you used the stock gear reductions?

@@DescartesRenegade Kinda. I used 3 of the 4 stock gear sizes. My current gear ratio is 11-33 to 15-33 (there are two gear reductions). The normal gear reduction is two 11-33 gears. My wheel diameter is ~12 inches, so 5200rpm motor speed = ~28 mph.

7ah 12V lead acid are very small batteries (@ 30amps discharge that's an unrealistic ideal 14 minutes of usage). The batteries last 5-15 minutes on a full charge. They take 2 hours to fully charge from dead. So far, the batteries have slowly degraded over the course of 5 years.

That sounds like a really cool e-trike but I can't really help you with the electric mower. Unfortunately, there has been a lot of variety in e-mowers over the years when it comes to batteries, plugs, connectors, motors, and control systems. It would be pretty cool if you could take the blade motor and/or drive motor/s and make them into a go-kart or something. Food for thought.

No worries, I have an image of the wiring diagram in my other go-kart video. If you want me to send it to you, you can find my contact email in the "about" section of my CZcams channel.

Ok. I was trying to see where that 3 way high speed switch went its all Chinese w no instructions. I got it to go and rode it at 10 mph maybe

It depends on your project. The kit might be a little bit underpowered for off-road use (my go-kart tops out at around 15 mph when in tallgrass). There are a lot of factors that goes into what you're looking for. If you're okay with that speed and lack of future proofing, I'd say go for the kit. It's been pretty good. If you want to do an electric swap but have the same and/or more power than the 110cc engine, like 6 to 8 horsepower, then you're looking at at least a 3,000W kit. You also have to realize that I cheaped out on the batteries for my project initially. The sealed lead acid batteries lasted a good 3 or so years but now I need to replace them and a proper lithium battery pack is not cheap.

Nope, the controller works just fine if there's no three speed switch. If it is left unplugged, I believe it's put on the highest speed setting. Some controllers need to be put on a switch to access the highest speed mode, but this one didn't.

Well thank you. Apparently, it helps out the CZcams algorithm or something. 🙃

Hi there, Thanks so much for reaching out and sharing your project with me - converting a gasoline-powered lawnmower into an electric vehicle sounds like an exciting and innovative endeavor! However, I'm currently unable to join Zoom calls due to my schedule. I would still love to help as much as I can. Feel free to email me detailed pictures or a video of your setup, along with a description of the problem. It's often the case that issues with such conversions stem from wiring connections or control system setup. If you can also include details about the kit you used and the steps you've followed, that would be very helpful. You can find my email address in the 'About' section of my CZcams channel. Looking forward to hearing from you, and I'll do my best to assist via email! Best of luck with your capstone project!

It could just be a faulty switch. I have a wiring diagram in my other video where I go over my gokart. (czcams.com/video/7RONIBGccNA/video.html) @ 2:25 I don't go into much further detail than showing a picture of the wires, but it might help you find the connection you are looking for. Something else I will note is that the speed modes only limit the top speed of the motor and not the torque applied. If the power of the motor is limiting the top speed, then regardless of the speed mode selected, the kart will not be faster. Please let me know if this helps.

@@Newwinggarage well it’s not the switch. I pulled the switch to bypass it and connected the wire terminals as the switch would and still could not get it to High speed. Only low and medium. I’ll check the wires tomorrow, besides that it must be a faulty controller idk. It’s difficult because these go carts come with a universal harness apparently so there’s lots of things unplugged/not used.

Hi, thank you for reaching out! I have a second video about my go-kart project that goes into a little bit more detail. It also includes a rough wiring explanation. czcams.com/video/7RONIBGccNA/video.html Most brushes DC motors are based on sine wave geometry, so it's likely your 750W motor and controller kit is wired similarly. Do you need a proper wiring diagram for the internals of the speed controller or would an explanation of what the wires do be sufficient?

@@Newwinggarage Do you by any chance have some kind of a diagram? I could send you pics of the wires also. There are some unfamiliar wires although the main wires are noticeable

@@agondahsyla7488 I do have a wiring diagram for my specific controller. It may help you find out what wires do for your controller. You can also send me an email (in my channels about section) of an image and description of your controller. There are many motor kits out there, so I don't know the specifics of your wiring and I make no promises that I know how your controller works.

Yay! Somebody noticed! So, there's actually a long story about these larger rear wheels. The short of it is, they are 12-in pneumatic tires and 6in rims that can easily be found online for around $30 each (I bought them a long time ago and don't remember where). - you can find them at harbor freight I had to buy 20mm metal turning drill bit, then drill to match the diameter of the wheel hubs to go-kart axle. It was a bit of a hassle but worth it.

Let me know if you would like any further details, or have any questions!

5-15 minutes of constant driving. Depends mostly on how much accelerating is done.

@@Newwinggarage that’s it ? I was going to make one but 15min is not very long lol

Hmmm... where to start... Different battery chemistries will have different capabilities for output. The series of four 12V 7ah sealed lead acid (SLA) batteries are currently discharging the equivalent of a 5C battery (around 30 amps). The maximum recommended use case for the battery is 0.3C or 2.1 amps (15X lower). This means the SLA's are very VERY stressed out, but because they are lead acid chemistry they are more resilient to these extremes than some lithium-ions. Now, if we take a look at lithium-polymer (LiPo) batteries, a lot of them are rated over 30C. Meaning I could even make a 2ah battery pull 30amps no problem. If we turn our attention to the motor; hall-sensor 3 phase DC motors (what I got) are very resilient. The limiting factor is usually cooling. I could probably run like over 4000W of power at 60amps and 72V if I have a speed controller that can handle it. It would definitely overheat, but if you could cool it it would probably work... probably... at least once... In my case, the limiting factor is hard to tell. My batteries only last 5 minutes more or less. But the speed controller is hard limited to (a claimed) 33amps so who knows what power it needs to reach it's limits. I'm pretty sure the controller will break before the motor though.

To answer your question: a 20ah lithium-ion battery is probably just enough for my setup. (Different chemistries are capable of different outputs) most cheap e-bike batteries are 1C continuous output. Some better or worse. Your results may vary.

Well, I literally just ran my Dragy GPS performance data recorder to see the top speed. It is officially 27.05mph. Voltage dropped from 52V to 44V. When the batteries were new, the average voltage sag at top speed (right off the charger) was around 4-5 volts. Now it's grown to 8-10 volts. These batteries were not made for high current draw.

thank you so much man, idk if it's weird or i don't have enough information but 7ah getting you 27mph max speed is very good@@Newwinggarage

My personal experience is that I have not had a controller failure. I have noticed that both the speed controller and motor get warm under prolonged use in the highest speed mode. At the moment, my batteries are the limiting factor, so the controller is not outputting at 100% at all times. I could very easily see the controller dying without proper cooling when under prolonged heavy loading. (Then again I am only a sample size of one, so your results may vary)

If enough people are interested, I will add more power/volts and see where the controller dies. (It's a pretty cheap controller)

that would be cool, i have another concern if you don't mind, i will buy the 48v 1800w motor and thought about buying 48v 15ah battery but the seller told me it would make the motor go little weak not full power, and maybe 20ah would make it full power is that right?@@Newwinggarage

Yes, I want ​@@Newwinggarage

The gears I am using are for the original size chain for the go-kart (#25 chain). The gear setup I have is a 13 to 33 tooth, then to 15 to 33 tooth (if my memory is correct). So, the total gear ratio is 1/5.585 wheel-speed to motor-speed. The 33 toothed sprockets came with the go-kart, I needed to get the 13 tooth sprocket to adapt my motor to the small chain size and the 15 tooth happened somewhere along the way. I also have a 9-tooth sprocket I want to put on just to see how fast I can break my back accelerating. 🤣 If you want to do the math, my tire diameter is ~11in and the motor rpm limit is stated to be ~5200 RPM, so my theoretical max speed is around 30.5 mph. I usually see around 25mph but have confirmed up to 28mph. Unfortunate, I don't know the exact gear specs and it's annoying to take them off just to see if they have any manufacture numbers. I'll make another video of it if you ask nicely. Hope I could help, and let me know if you got any more questions.

I 100% agree with you! The tiny brake rotor and pads struggle to get kart to stop. After I adjusted them as much as I can, the plastic brake handle still flexes to much for the amount of squeeze I need to stop quickly. That being said, if its wet, on dirt, or grass, the tires will lose traction before the brakes reach their limit. To be honest I'm a little surprised that the brakes actually function with the increased weight and speed.

uhhh... Some clarification is needed... The motor is a three phase hall senser DC motor. You need a speed controller for that kind of motor because it doesn't just work with a straight DC voltage applied. You need brains like the one that comes with the kit. Does your speed control knob regulate voltage for a 3-phase hall effect DC motor? If so, then I think it should work. On the other hand, if we are assuming that you are talking about my potentiometer throttle attached to the speed controller, then any 5-volt potentiometer will do. Most throttles / speed control knobs are that standard (no guaranties though). @A.Dotin4K I hope this helps, and please let me know if you got any questions.

....Kinda, yeah. Yes. Yup. Probably. Sorta. I need to clarify some things first. Amps (Amperes) tell you how much current is flowing at a particular instant, while Amp-hours (Ah) provide a cumulative measure of the total charge that has passed over a time period (i.e., battery capacity). In my case, I used a small 7 Ah capacity battery that just barely output the required constant 30 Amps for the motor on a full charge. That is why the battery voltage drops so much in my video. If you use a more powerful battery, like a LiPo battery, at the same capacity, it will not have this problem because those batteries are rated for +30 Amps of continuous discharge. Alternatively, if you use a larger battery, like 20 Amp-hours, it will also solve the problem. Next, we need to talk about how voltage affects motor speed. The current supplied to the motor is generally tied to the torque of the motor, while the voltage is tied to the top speed of the motor (this is a generalization). My cart has just enough power from my batteries, on a full charge, to reach the maximum motor speed. It is not very torque-limited. That means if I were to increase the Amps (and therefore torque), I would not see a large increase in top speed. That being said, it would make my cart faster going through grass, up hills, and much faster accelerating. If I want to increase the top speed when torque is not the limiting factor, I should increase the voltage. Finally, we need to talk about the limits of the motor and speed controller. The speed controller is "rated" for 30 Amps continuously at 48 Volts. The speed controller has a hard limit on the current it can supply, and it cannot exceed 30 Amps. But as far as I know, there is no voltage limit to the speed controller; it will just explode after too much voltage (around 100 Volts or so). The motor is very capable and can handle up to 72 Volts or even 90 Volts with proper cooling (you will need cooling!). If I do go that route, at 30 Amps and 72 Volts, I might see speeds over 45 mph.

@newwing7607 alright that helps alot for my journey of building a gokart thanks

And that thumbnail has the drip. I like it; Picasso

Thanks mate, it's a beauty aint it.

Well, I can tell you from experience that 30A at 48V is a lot of draw for small batteries. The 7Ah lead acid batteries I am using have a power band of around 5 minutes. I say power band because after five minutes of consistent acceleration, the battery voltage sag drops below 40V, and the power/torque of the motor is significantly weaker. The batteries last ideally about 15 minutes or just around 2 miles when going from fully charged to dead. There are a lot of factors when looking at battery life like: how many accelerations, terrain changes, gears, at what speed, and more. If you are modding a mobility scooter, I would want close to an hour of run time, so a ~25 Ah lead acid or a ~20 Ah lithium battery @ 48V. (For batteries with a low current output you have to make them bigger to account for excess stress. Lead is weaker than lithium for the most part.) It is also a good idea to look at the "C rating" for the batteries you will be using. This will tell you the maximum constant current you can draw. Hope this helps.

I just searched for a "3 mode switch" and there are may options online or places like Home Depot. I personally bought all the electronics you see in the video on amazon. As a short stop solution, you can short the three modes with some dummy wire, it should be harmless (because that's what the switch does).

I have confirmed my go-kart goes 28 mph. However, when the batteries were newer I'm confident that it went just at or over 30 mph. At the moment, the motor is not a limiting factor. It is the batteries and drivetrain.

@@Newwinggarage Do you recommend that I get a better battery?

Not sure what you got now, but I wouldn't recommend small, sealed lead acid batteries like what I got.@@XDLinear

Kinda? I'm not sure exactly what you're asking here, but it is not an easy plug and play solution. At the bare minimum, you'll need to drill new mounting holes for the motor, adapt the chain and sprocket, and mount the speed controller. You will also need to upgrade the batteries. As for fitment, the motor should fit as it's much longer, but not much wider than the stock motor. Really, you can locate the speed controller wherever. Lastly, there are a plethora of options for making a 48 volt battery system. So, I hope that answers your question.

@@Newwinggarage i have a question what batteries did u user for the kit

@@6buckets I used 4 12V, 7Ah lead acid batteries I wired in series. I bought the pack of 4 from Amazon by Expert Power, and paid $80. I actually am regretting it a little bit, because the batteries don't last very long. They also have a lot of voltage sag when under load, take up a lot of space, and are very heavy. Their saving grace is that they are CHEAP AND EASY! (Which is enough for now) If I was spending this kind of money again, I would double my battery budget and find a lithium polymer or lithium ion battery pack that can do 48 volts and 30A discharge continuously. But then again... Money.

10/10 would recommend. It's an absolute roller coaster ride of fun!

To infinity and beyond!

It's always harder than it looks 😂

I’m going to make a 2 seater mini truck with my dad so me and my friend could drive in it maybe next summer, I hope I can finish it in around 2 months

Yes I do in fact! I'm not sure how you want me to send it to you though... but, I may be able to help clear some things up. So, the original throttle has 6 pins/wires. I had Yellow, Blue, Brown wires on top (opposite a male clip thing) and Red, Black, White on bottom (close to a male clip thing). The bottom three wires/pins (R,B,W) are for the potentiometer in the throttle (the throttle of the throttle). As far as I remember, Black (middle) was ground, Red was input, and White was output. I ended up just messing around with them until it worked. The top three pins are for the LED's for battery power and low voltage light. I still don't know what the Brown wire was for, but the Yellow and Blue wires on top were the positive and negative of both the power and battery light. Unfortunately, there are multiple iterations of this throttle. Some have four wires and some have six. I hope I could help, and please let me know if you need anything else! P.S. here is a link to my version of throttle on amazon to help visualize things: www.amazon.com/Thumb-Throttle-Razor-Drifter-W25143400043/dp/B09FYK4HW8

@CarlosMartinez-fu9dz Damn I'm late seeing this 😞. I linked the exact type of throttle I had on an Amazon link in the comment above. I hope that helps clear some things up, and please let me know if that answers your question.

I'm sorry for responding so late to comments, I kinda just made this video and forgot about it. 😅 Anyway, the charger that I purchased was a standard lead acid battery charger for a 48V system. The charger itself has its own quirks and features and looks a bit sketchy as it will pulse charge when the batteries get close to full. I ended up wiring the charger through the speed controller and have been having no issues thus far. That being said, not having a battery management system is likely not great for the four batteries I have in series. Let me know if you have any questions! And thankyou for asking!

LoL

Thanks

I don't know what to tell ya bro, that whole processes is confusing. There are other videos of this procedure, but it doesn't get much easier.

On the 10th generation Honda Civic's, the "traction button" only partially disables VSA (Vehicle Stability Assist). However, "traction control" is only reduced if VSA is partially disabled, but if you want to disable "traction control" and fully disable VSA, you need to do this procedure. There is some information in the Civic's owners manual on pages 24, and 464. It states, "To partially disable or fully restore VSA® function, press and hold the button until you hear a beep" and "your vehicle will have normal braking and cornering ability, but traction control function will be less effective." For track use, burnouts, or other shenanigans, many people on forms and in journals recommend that VSA be fully disabled. Hope this helped.

@@Newwinggarage thanks boss

Yes, although it can also reset by simply pressing the traction control button again.