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Why did I get pink not red, I wonder?

Great video, thanks!! 😁

Great video! It worked instantly for me. Keep it up

A really interesting video. It's a shame that your image is slightly fuzzy, because I can't quite read the text you typed into Pixel Math. 🙂

Yes indeed you are 100% correct. See the the Jan. 2024 S&T for more evidence.

thanks,very usefull

very good

I just improved my image by a ton, thanks to you! Great tutorial!

Thank you .. This has been a challenge for me and you cleared it up ..

Great star mask explainer! Thank you!

This has been know for a very long time… I’m not sure why the 60 second sub myth keeps propagating… you will definitely capture more with 1 ten minute sub than ten 60 second subs the signal is just to close to the noise in short exposures

Hi, great video! I've tried processing a few comets myself using the same technique as you but the one thing I can't seem to figure out is how you get rid of the star streaks within the tail and coma of the comet. Its driving me nuts! I've tried masking just the streaks and playing around with various adjustments to reduce their brightness and whatnot but it never comes out smooth and undetectable. I would love any tips you might have or even a video dedicated to this one aspect of comet processing. A video like this now would be great for your channel as many people are attempting to capture C/2022 E3 (ZTF)!

Amazing photo ! 🔥

why is everything so complicated lol.if this is meant for beginners im fubard

Love this!! I’m relatively new to post processing and although I wish you would elaborate on each step of your tutorial, I will keep rewatching it until it sinks in. Can your technique be used with a OSC camera? I’m looking forward to exploring more of your channel. Can’t wait to try this out come galaxy season this spring.

You should compare 4 stacked 1 minute image to the 4 minute image. If the 1 minute image overwhelms your cameras read noise and exceed the recommended Min Sub exposure time for your sky background, you won’t see much (if any ) difference in a 4x60 vs 1x240 as far a S/N and detail goes

I'm an AP beginner, but your method just seems so wrong to me. The way I have learned (which works very well) is to; 1) Stretch the image in PS initally 2) Run the image through Starnet (free software) to create a starless background image 3) Take the starless image into PS, apply dust and scratch filter to smooth it. 4) In the original image, use Apply Image using the starless / filtered image with subtract setting, use about 30 offset. 5) Bingo - almost a perfect flat image without any additional cost

You are young. You will be fine lifting a 60Lb mount such as AstroPhysics 1100 GTO. You will also be fine listing 40 Lb tripod and 45Lb scope such as AG optic 12.5”.

Just look into Roger Glover videos and find out optimal exposure depending on scope, camera, filter and importantly bortle of site. Darker site longer exposures are needed and much better pictures comes out. Shooting hydrogen for 1min is just outright wrong even from bortle 9. Bottom line, watch Glover’s video and stop discovering bike in your videos.

I've done a lot of experimenting with exposure times and I can honestly say that I have found that the benefits of shorter expsosures massively outweigh longer exposures. Of course - obvioulsy - if we're talking about *one* exposure, a longer exposure is better than a shorter one. But if we're talking about whether it's better to take 60 x 1 minute exposures or 15 x 4 minute exposures - it's a no brainer. Shorter exposures and more of them are always better. By doing that, any photobombing due to planes, satellites, UAPs, etc are all much lessened. Wind issues are alos minimised. At 60 seconds, most mounts can track _unguided_ . Of course, we are fed the line that everyone needs a guide camera, but that's because it's big $$$ to sell them. They are honestly not needed, and neither are exposures of more than a minute or even 45 seconds. People get sucked into believing that guiding and longer exposures are necessary but the truth is that they're not.

I thought you gave a great presentation with very helpful & practical tips. The only downside for me was that it was really hard - virtually impossible - to tell which image you were referring to at any one time IE whether you were referring to the 60 second image or 240 second image on the screen...... Maybe next time label your images clearly so we can tell which images you are discussing. Thanks again for an otherwise very helpful video.

Thanks for all the clear explained videos, they are very helpful. I know you can also extract the channels in APP? Will that give a better result?

This was a great example of how much data is needed depending on the object. Cheers

Is this still the way to go or have you refined it?

Best video on starmask on tube!

Would it not be a good idea, first to do a linear fit on the extracted red and the Ha?

Surely you should compare 4 minute with 4 one minute stacked?

Learned a lot in this first video - looking forward to learning more!

Great video, but it would be awesome at the end if you would show how to actually apply the mask you just created. I have a mask now and don't know what to do with it.

What nebula is this??

Very helpful and well-explained tutorial. 👍🏼

Hi, nice video, learnt a bit. I Was trying to download the actions but I can't seem to get them. Are you able to share Troy's Astro Actions? Thanks

Which technique do you use in Pixinsight or APP for gradient removal?

I've tryed this and I keep getting: PixelMath: Processing preview: Alpha->Preview01 *** Error: No such image: Alpha-Q*(r-med(r)) I have Q=0.1 in my Symbols tab and Alpha-Q*(r-med(r)) in RGB/K tab

Thanks for this! I plan to give this a try!

Very cool method! Thank you so much for that tutorial. I did this with other methods but this one is for sure the best one. I am deepy impressed. CS Christian

wow! many thanks for this tutorial. So helpfull!

Your videos have really helped me improve my processing. I think my camera is really becoming my limitation now though! I think I'll become a patreon subscriber soon as I'd love to both support you and get some help!

Julian, I really appreciate your tutorials as I keep trying to improve my APP-PS workflow. I think this might be the year to try Pixinsight...but that will depend on how much time life allows me to spend on this hobby. A question for you - how does your workflow change when dealing with faint structures throughout the FOV? I've had two recent images (M45 with surrounding IFN and the M36/M38 area with lots of faint Ha nebulosity) that I found difficult to work with in APP. There are good methods in Photoshop, as you've shown in another tutorial, to bring out those details, but I'm curious to know how that fits into a larger workflow. Looking forward to more of your content!

My pixelmath doesn't look anything like yours, so I am lost

Why does a good mount cost more than the telescope? That's like a set of tires costing more than the car!

great video, thank you! Is there another one explaining how to apply it?

Great video! I understand now why my masks never looked right

Very helpful video. Thanks so much!

Thanks for the video!

Hi, thanks for another video. Looks like you have made the switch to PI. Being pretty well versed in Photoshop as demonstrated in previous videos, I am curious as to why you made the switch to PI. In a lot of videos on the subject, I cannot help but think, I can do the same in Photoshop. So What makes PI so much better in your opinion? Cheers, Peter

My CCD camara requires me to take longer exposures to get to my calculated Mean ADU- That is what basically tells you how long of an exposures you can optimumly concidering sky limitations of course. I must say the long exposures are worth it. And that's why I invested in a CEM60EC mount. The encoder allows me to take longer exposures in the guide camara (like 5 seconds) without affecting the tracking. And therefor I can take 15-20 or even 30 minutes exposures.. That's why they say the most important part of the rig in imaging is the mount. That said now a days CMOS chips have low read noise and can reach the Mean ADU without needing such long exposures. Great video though. Cheers!!!

Thank you for making this video, even though I have been using pixinsight for a while I still didn't use half the short cuts you shared. Please make more videos you always put out informational content!

I'm quite new and I can't understand if the two images have the same equivalent exposure so you played with gains or ISO and F stop to use a different shutter speed and keeping the same amount of light

You,sir, have just saved me a lot of grief!!! Thank you!! Liked,Followed, and saved!!!👊🏼✌🏼