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Looks like you’re missing the nut on the bolt with the spring.

my kal engine is almost 30 yo now. still runs great

A nice clean look!

You should have bought a hustler. I got an X152 inch. Love it 4 years old now.

Good, Thx

Good, Thx

20/50 is best in hot weather or 40W

don't forget the canister filter upgrade... they look boss

Been running synthetic Motul 20w50 in my mower since new, never an issue. Now at 76 hours.

Kawasaki recommends 20w-50

The older manufacturer's recommended you to run a constant run on big engines at 30 weight motor oil now the new engines recommend a lighter oil like in your car like a 10W-30. I just put 5-30 in my 26 horsepower and it works great the faster rate lubricates on Startup to better

South of the mason Dixon line run 20-50

Worth every penny & Deere makes tons of attachments/accessories for them.

It’s also a good idea to blow your air filter out at the end of each day and replace it when it’s time. Two things kill mowers. Heat and dust.

That’s a good oil choice because of the zinc and weight. A better oil IN MY OPINION would be mobil1 15w50 because it’s full synthetic. On a brand new engine it’s best to run conventional for the first 100-200 hours to seat the rings. I live where it’s real hot so I run a 50 weight synthetic. Vr1 is good too but cost a lot more than Mobil1. Mobil1 on Amazon is 30 bucks for 5 quarts.

Man i run those engines on my gravelys. I've had engine failure and it's no joke!! I would like to suggest to you to upgrade to the commercial air filter box. You can get one for around$150.00.i run a lawn company. I mow aprox 10-12 yards a day 5 days a week. Since i switched filter box i have not had an problem. And yes the thicker oil is the way to go.

I have a Kawasaki FR6991V never buy another mower with this motor. trouble from day 1. manual says SAE 40

That Husqvarna MZ 52 is $6,295 today and it comes with a Kohler 7000 engine. Definitely better mower options for that price than Husqvarna. You were smart to upgrade your mower to the Kawasaki FR730

I have s 2003 zr2 chevy s-10 I love it it is one of the best trucks out here

20w50. Covers high temps. Cut the manufacturer’s oil change interval in half.

I recommend using amsoil. There was a video on CZcams where they tested different brands of oil as far as everything. Amsoil came out on top. It's all I use now for my lawn care business.

Idler arm might e loose. $30 for the fix. I had the LM-1 170 h.p. not fast, but not a slug either.

I had the same car. Probably the best car I ever had. Loaded with the 350 4v. Bought it when the 78's came out.

thanks for the warning. I'm about to pickup a Kubota with the similar Kawasaki engine and I want none of those problems

I was happy to find this video! I was changing my oil on my Z254F last week. I wanted to stick with Kawasaki Oil because of the zinc content. The local NAPA store was the only store where I could find it. I was looking for 10W-40, but they only had it in 20W-50. I was reluctant to take it, but one of the store counter persons told me that Kawasaki did recommend 20w-50 for areas like south Louisiana with higher temperatures. I tried to verify this claim, but as of yet was unable to do so. Your video has reassured me of my choice to use it. Thanks! BTW, I see you are still running the stock air filter on your Kawasaki. I spent some extra money on a canister style air filter conversion for my mower. We had very dusty conditions down here last season. I was having to replace my original filter far too often. This conversion has a gauge that monitors the condition of the filter, so I no longer have to open the filter compartment to view the condition of the filter I highly recommend this conversion. I found mine at www.powerequipmentman.com

Run full synthetic is recommended by some experts

HOW MANY HOURS ON IT

Smart ...bruh THANKS u got a new subscriber

That puff of white smoke makes me think you blew a head gasket. Pretty simple fix on these things. If it had really "died" you would have heard the internals let go, rod knocking, etc.

Dont use high zinc oil it will kill the exhaust. Just put some lucas stabalizer or cylinder lube in it.

10w40 is the best, according to their manual you can use it from -4 to 95degF. Over 95F don't use anything less than SAE40.

You need straight 30

20w50 v Twin Motorbike oil is what you need.

Good to see someone taking good care of their equipment. Lots of people don't and they paying big money later for not doing regular service work. You have a nice machine right there.

Thanks for the info. I have a freshly rebuilt Kohler CV730 that's due for it's first oil change. I'm in the south where the temperature is either hot or hotter. Nothing else.

Shore me you can talk for 3:55 without saying anything at all. LoL

Great review.

I've put almost 40k miles on my 400 in the last year. I drive it 100+ miles a day and she ain't never given me any issues. These the best cars ever!

Your correct, it's not just the current mileage of car, it's also the age that determines what needs replacing. My everyday driver is 98' lexus gs400 with almost 230k miles. Good luck with this car.

Zinc is good in a Deisel engine, not so much in a gas air cooled mower. Kawi alter their oil after having valve problems and that fixed the problem. Kawi and Honda and Koler make oils specifically for Air Cooled engines. Car oils work in conjunction with a Radiator/water cooling. There are no radiators in a Mower, therefore the correct oil for air cooled engines is required. They need a specific 'Synthetic' oil for air cooled engines. Thank you.

Just got one with 1409 hr - needs plugs and pulleys, maybe belt - thanks for taking the time to make this vid

Been using the RZ pro granted it's not a true commercial mower but even though it's not it cuts like one and the cut on it can't beat it.i had ran ferris John deere walker standers toro and I can honestly say it cuts better then all of them minus the ferris.

I have a brand new Kubota with the FR730V and it had 10W-30 in it when I bought it. Experienced a little oil loss in the heat (maybe 1/4 quart) so when it hit 8 hours I did the first oil change using 20W-50 and the engine seemed to run smoother with zero oil loss over the next 5 hours. It has to go back to the dealer for a squeaking drive shaft pulley and some kind of metallic ringing sound somewhere in the drivetrain but so far the engine is running smooth. I did oil changes at 60-70 hours on my older mower with a Kohler Courage 20 HP just because that's what I'll spend on the mower each summer/fall. That had a piston shaft break but when we pulled the engine apart the rest of the engine was squeaky clean inside with no wear evident anywhere except for cracked gaskets. Got 1500 hours out of the Kohler so that wasn't too bad given the reliability issues with that engine over 1K hours. We have guys around here running the Kawasaki for well over 2000 hours so for a homeowner like me who isn't doing commercial work I'm hoping to get a solid 15-20 years out of my mower. They are getting really expensive now!

I would buy the Echo PB-500T

88 with the bench is better. Especially the dash

Great video thanks

Yep even Kawasaki has oil viscosity charts that recommend 20w50 when used in hot conditions.

You werent using the wrong oil. Engines die for a lot of different reasons. If youre buying any modern oil thats a weight recommended in the service manual for your climate/temperature range, and topping off and changing at the correct intervals then thats all you can do. The rest is up to the engine mfg to not have defective parts. A landscaping company i trust told me that i could expect 100 hours per motor HP as long as i maintain it correctly.

You can get the fuel indicator replaced it may still be under warranty but if not it doesn’t cost as much.

The Deck adjuster dial is in inches sir.