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Crusader Rabbit
United States
Registrace 30. 07. 2009
Find me on the Playstation Network! =:3
Playstation Network ID (PSN): CrusaderRabbit59
Find me on Nintendo Switch
Friend Code: SW-1965-8093-6019
just an ordinary everyday Rabbit trying to slug its way through game content. if the Rabbit can do it, then so can you. so come and join the Rabbit in his Sword Art Online: Fatal Bullet antics
you may also like my twitter feed where i feature pictures and short unnarrated videos from gameplay of Sword Art Online Fatal Bullet
mobile. supersk26448350
also now livestreams available on twitch
m.twitch.tv/crusaderrabbit59/home
social networking site for family, school friends, work friends, scouting friends, online gaming friends:
m. kevy.clevy
Playstation Network ID (PSN): CrusaderRabbit59
Find me on Nintendo Switch
Friend Code: SW-1965-8093-6019
just an ordinary everyday Rabbit trying to slug its way through game content. if the Rabbit can do it, then so can you. so come and join the Rabbit in his Sword Art Online: Fatal Bullet antics
you may also like my twitter feed where i feature pictures and short unnarrated videos from gameplay of Sword Art Online Fatal Bullet
mobile. supersk26448350
also now livestreams available on twitch
m.twitch.tv/crusaderrabbit59/home
social networking site for family, school friends, work friends, scouting friends, online gaming friends:
m. kevy.clevy
lvl 38 bowa vs baals minions normal difficulty
Equipment Stats Skills reveal at end
store.playstation.com/#!/tid=CUSA00572_00
store.playstation.com/#!/tid=CUSA00572_00
zhlédnutí: 4
Video
i want the silver Valkyrie Diablo II Resurrected
zhlédnutí 7Před 21 hodinou
Gray?Grey? store.playstation.com/#!/tid=CUSA00572_00
impromptu normal baal minions Diablo II Resurrected
zhlédnutí 5Před dnem
lvl 32 bowazon equips kuko bow and tests out in worldstone keep and keeps on going sort of lost it at end of third wave store.playstation.com/#!/tid=CUSA00572_00
Ist drop in Cold Plains Diablo II Resurrected
zhlédnutí 6Před 14 dny
store.playstation.com/#!/tid=CUSA00572_00
lvl 54 nova necro vs River of Flame and runup to Diablo
zhlédnutí 12Před 14 dny
lvl 54 poison nova necro ... poison nova doing 1.4K-1.5K (lvl 17? I think) store.playstation.com/#!/tid=CUSA00572_00
“From the ashes of my waffle” ?????
zhlédnutí 16Před 21 dnem
Note to self Dont eat breakfast in this mans hut
Special Challenge Fail x Sword Art Online: Fatal Bullet
zhlédnutí 45Před měsícem
I really need to become more situationally aware they cant all be wins =:3 store.playstation.com/#!/tid=CUSA00572_00
lvl 76 Nova Sorc vs. Terrorized NM Cows x Diablo II Resurrected
zhlédnutí 2,2KPřed měsícem
store.playstation.com/#!/tid=CUSA00572_00
pul rune drop nightmare cows Diablo II Resurrected
zhlédnutí 61Před měsícem
store.playstation.com/#!/tid=CUSA00572_00
um rune drop hell difficulty Diablo II Resurrected
zhlédnutí 49Před měsícem
store.playstation.com/#!/tid=CUSA00572_00
Death Sash Upgrade x Diablo II Resurrected
zhlédnutí 190Před měsícem
Death Sash Upgrade x Diablo II Resurrected
special invitation alpha … with a friend
zhlédnutí 42Před měsícem
special invitation alpha … with a friend
Terrorized Summoner Hell DifficultyDiablo® II: Resurrected
zhlédnutí 17Před měsícem
Terrorized Summoner Hell DifficultyDiablo® II: Resurrected
my first gheeds find x Diablo II Resurrected
zhlédnutí 40Před měsícem
my first gheeds find x Diablo II Resurrected
Duriel Hell Difficulty x Diablo II Resurrected
zhlédnutí 76Před měsícem
Duriel Hell Difficulty x Diablo II Resurrected
lvl 73 hammerdin vs Baal's Minions Diablo II Resurrected Nightmare Difficulty
zhlédnutí 25Před měsícem
lvl 73 hammerdin vs Baal's Minions Diablo II Resurrected Nightmare Difficulty
Upgrading Iratha's Finery Diablo II Resurrected
zhlédnutí 23Před měsícem
Upgrading Iratha's Finery Diablo II Resurrected
Special Challenge Beta ... with a friend
zhlédnutí 22Před 2 měsíci
Special Challenge Beta ... with a friend
Nightmare Difficulty Baal's Minions lvl 90 cold sorc
zhlédnutí 15Před 3 měsíci
Nightmare Difficulty Baal's Minions lvl 90 cold sorc
Secret Cow Level Normal - Diablo II Resurrected
zhlédnutí 39Před 3 měsíci
Secret Cow Level Normal - Diablo II Resurrected
NM Baals Minions - Diablo II Resurrected - Cold Sorc - Full Tals
zhlédnutí 57Před 3 měsíci
NM Baals Minions - Diablo II Resurrected - Cold Sorc - Full Tals
Swords Only - Special Invitation Alpha
zhlédnutí 34Před 3 měsíci
Swords Only - Special Invitation Alpha
Special Challenge Alpha ... with a friend
zhlédnutí 23Před 4 měsíci
Special Challenge Alpha ... with a friend
Gynormas Crit vs Manhunter BOC3 Bounty Runs
zhlédnutí 14Před 4 měsíci
Gynormas Crit vs Manhunter BOC3 Bounty Runs
Rare Blue Rose F9 Drop Clone (Kirito?) Room Abyssal Dungeon
zhlédnutí 6Před 4 měsíci
Rare Blue Rose F9 Drop Clone (Kirito?) Room Abyssal Dungeon
UnCommon Gigas Cedar G4 Drop Clone (Kirito?) Room Abyssal Dungeon
zhlédnutí 17Před 4 měsíci
UnCommon Gigas Cedar G4 Drop Clone (Kirito?) Room Abyssal Dungeon
Special Invitation Gamma with a friend ... and random co op players
zhlédnutí 74Před 5 měsíci
Special Invitation Gamma with a friend ... and random co op players
Double Drop Clone (Kirito?) Room Abyssal Dungeon 47F-49F
zhlédnutí 41Před 5 měsíci
Double Drop Clone (Kirito?) Room Abyssal Dungeon 47F-49F
I have a CLA’d Minox C. It cool to have a fully working spy camera. I found that 400 ISO is *very* grainy for 8x11mm film that the Minox cameras use. Now I’m trying 100 ISO instead.
I have one of these and love the images I get from it. The meter is long dead, and the focus patch needs adjustment in the vertical plane, but it otherwise works great. The film advance doesn't keep me from advancing the film before taking the next shot, and I wound about 3-4 pics on the first roll of film I shot in it not figuring out what was happening. It advances the film OK, it just doesn't stop. Since it works, I'm not gonna try and fix it. LOL.
@@MTimWeaver hello. Thanks for watching and leaving a comment. For me part of the fun of shooting with film cameras is as you describe compensating for equipment that no longer performs to factory specifications. I too was stunned when looking at the negatives how sharp the images were. Thanks again for taking the time to comment! Cheers, the Rabbit. =:3
Where could get. Minolta16 Camera
@@MatthewThambi hello. Thanks for watching and taking the time to leave a comment. I picked mine up off of ebay. Its a really fun camera to shoot with. Hope you find one. Cheers. The Rabbit. =:3
You got some great shots!
Of you put the roll of film in first, you can attach the other end to the take up drum in subdued light. You just lose the last frame or two
I inherited a mint G2 system with the nice TLA flash, the 35, the 45 and the 90. Just picked up a mint Green Label G1 as my daily driver for only $300 on FM. Currently in the hunt for a 21 or 28 mm lens. Love this 35 mm film system and now use the G1 for street shooting and the G2 for portrait work.
I have the same camera. One thing that has repeatedly happened to mine is that the shutter release button gets stuck pressed slightly down, resulting in the camera firing as soon as you slide it open. I don't think it's a mechanical failure; I think it is gunk from 70 years of life making it sticky. There's no way to get in there, but I have found something that works. Put a bottle of glass cleaner on stream, and pre-fire it so you don't get a mess. Then shoot a tiny amount of glass cleaner right on the button. Be gentle. Immediately flip the camera over and shake it out. Then slide and fire the shutter a whole bunch of times. You will find that the button gets unstuck. Glass cleaner evaporates soon enough as long as you shake it out. You don't want it moving into other areas of the camera. Let the camera sit a day or so just to make sure, but you'll be able to load film and use as normal. I have had my III-s for several years now and I can confirm that this fixes a sticky shutter-release should someone experience that. I wouldn't try it on other models because of electronics, but it works on the mechanical models.
@@lanatrzczka hello. Thanks for watching the video and for taking the time to write such a helpful hint. Cheers, the Rabbit. =:3
Oh dear, a few inaccuracies about the history. Firstly, the SL350 had open aperture metering. Both the SL35 and SL350 were Rollei designs. The SL35M was in actual fact a Zeiss Ikon SL706 the rights to which Rollie acquired as part of their purchase of the Voigtlander factory and brand from Carl Zeiss. The SL35M has no connection with the earlier cameras other than they were manufactured and sold by Rollei, and use the same QBM. Most people think the SL350 was the superior camera. The SL35M was introduced in April 1976 and its electronic shutter brother the SL35ME in September 1976. Really, the two cameras were contemporaries to each other, the SL35ME was not really a later generation. The next generation was the SL35E which was a brand new camera design in every sense. You could have mentioned that the lens only has indents at full stops, and that you do get the aperture visible in the viewfinder. The top and bottom plates are plastic. Yes the SL35M is CDS, the SL35ME had a silicon photo diode light meter. It is nice to see a review on these old Rollei cameras. They could produce really good results, but never had the marketing to make them popular. Quality control in Singapore was a bit hit and miss though, I had lots of issues with all of my Rollei SLR's that were made their. Today, I do have two functioning SL35Es' just wish Rollei could have supplied me with one working camera over the period, 1976 to 1981.
@@davidjenkins8009 hi. Thanks for watching the video and giving the history lesson. Cheers, the Rabbit. =:3
The locking feature also stops metering/battery drain. The usefulness of cloudy and daylight symbols will depend on the film speed. Sunny 16 at ISO 100 would imply a 1/100 shutter speed, so with 100 speed film you could expose at f8 in sunny conditions given the shutter is good to 1/500.
I have one, but haven't used it yet. It is a near-exact copy of the first Minolta 16 model, but with a lower quality finish.
@@kmoecub hello. And thanks for watching and leaving a comment! I really like how it has a focus wheel as opposed to the “focus filters” feature of the minolta 16. Cheers, the Rabbit. =:3
thx
Is there any other differences between silver and green label other than compatibility of lens?
@@dkstudios3998 hello! Thanks for watching and leaving a comment! I am a poor judge because my green label body operates flawlessly and my silver body has “issues” but i have not noticed any functional differences between the two bodies other than the “issues” the silver body has. Thanks again for taking the time to participate in the comments section of my video. Cheers, the Rabbit. =:3
@@CrusaderRabbit59 Thanks for the reply! How do you mostly set the aperture when shooting with g1? I am not sure what to set in different enviornments (sunny, rain, night, portrait, etc)
I have had one of those for two years and finally got it serviced and am using it. What a nice camera. Shoulda spent the $$ before now. The meter works on mine, and the match needle metering is pretty accurate. Slides were popular then and exposure had to be right. 45mm lens is perfect and after the service, shutter seconds are ok. Makes great, contrasts images.
Интересный экземпляр. Зоркий-1 выпускался с 50х.г. по 60 г.соответственно. Как он стал с эмблемой олимпиады-80,хороший вопрос!? Видимо это какой-то спецвыпуск на экспорт. Это-же копия-Leika-2!
thank-you for watching and leaving a comment! cheers, the Rabbit. =:3
Hi. Are you sure is 8mm film? Not 9.2mm?
you are correct sir. 9.2 is more precise. cheers, the Rabbit. =:3
actually its a good point, if you are ordering something like the valoi 360 system film holder you want to make sure you purchase the minox holder and not the 8mm holder
I've had various Minolta 16 cameras since the early 1980s, when I could still buy preloaded film at most cameras stores (and some pharmacies). The original film length was 20 inches, according to the original cartridge reloading instructions that came with the film in those days, and a factory load would give 20-22 exposures (frame counter goes to 20). And you can avoid the hassle of slitting if you buy 16 mm movie film -- in one of the 10x14 cameras like that one, it doesn't matter which side of the cassette you load the perfs, but it's good practice to load with the film perforations toward the cassette bridge; that way they'll be out of the frame if you use the film in a newer camera with the 12x18 frame (or a Kiev with its 13x17). In the 10x14 cameras you can even use double perfed 16 mm (or double 8, which comes as a 16 mm strip that's slit into two 8 mm strips after developing). Ilford FP4+ and HP5+ are both available in 16 mm, as is Foma R100, all of Kodak's Vision3 stocks, plus at least a couple B&W stocks from the Great Yellow Father.
🌟 promo sm
Hello “Crusader Rabbit”, I found your video on this camera very entertaining….!
Hello! Thank-you very much for watching my video and taking the time to comment and say hi! i really fell in like with the looks of this camera. and several of its features, the decrementing exposure counter, lock release buttons, added to its charm. its “nearly” fully functional condition 50+ years from manufacture is a real testimate to the engineering effort put into its design. Thanks again for tuning into my video channel. cheers, the Rabbit. =:3
Can you redo yuna's mission
hello. thanks for watching and taking the time to leave a comment! im not an expert, but i think the only way would be to finish the game and at the end you are given a choice, rewind time or ng+ (new game plus) ... if you choose the ng+ option it should restart the whole game and all quests would be available to complete. you sort of want to play ng+ anyways, as you want to play one complete game in easy or normal mode, and one complete game in extreme mode so you can get lizbeths shop to lvl 12. good luck and hope this helps. cheers, the Rabbit. =:3
I have a large collection of FEDs, Zorkies and Kiev 35mm cameras. Every once in a while I take either my FED 3, FED 5C or Kiev 4 out and a roll of film just for a giggle. Nothing but sharp photos.
hello! thanks for watching and taking time to leave a comment. the fed 5 was my first foray into a soviet camera. and my first rangefinder too. i wanted to try something less expensive to see if i liked that type of camera. since then i have acquired a zorki and a kiev 4. i wear glasses and feel that i can get closer to nailing focus with a rangefinder than with a SLR. since the fed 5 was my first it kind of controls a special feeling, but i think i like the kiev best. thanks again for tuning into my channel. cheers, the Rabbit. =:3
This is one of the tests of the 36 chambers.
More seriously though, do you think that once the first half is loaded and sealed, could the second part be done in daylight? Since that little section of film is going to be exposed to the light anyway. Seems maybe simpler than fumbling about trying to find the tiny slits to pass the film through and snap the spool onto the lid. Opinion?
lol
@@sarabeujekian7019 hello. thanks for watching and taking the time to leave a comment. to answer your question, yes. i dont see an issue with that. cheers, the Rabbit. =:3
Just so you know, the naming for the minox a series cameras goes like this (I may be slightly wrong but should be fairly accurate there just seems to be a lack of information regarding these cameras specifically) I = og riva minox (aka the stupidly expensive and rare one) II = minox a (version 1 of the model a technically) changed to a plastic body covered within an aluminium shell to reduce build costs and was only referred to as the model II after the III was introduced (that fixed later mentioned issue) III = minox a (version 2) swapped the troublesome five element lens for a four element lens (the five element lens was the one that pushes against the film rather than a pressure plate which would cause scratches on the film so they changed it to a curved pressure plate that stayed until the model C which went with a flat one IIIs = minox a (version 3) it’s far as I’m aware this was only released in the USA and the only difference I am aware of was that it included a flash sync socket on the side As far as I am aware that is the only differences if I’ve made an error reply to this comment and I will edit it
hello! thanks for watching and taking the time to leave a very informative comment! cheers, the Rabbit. =:3
@@CrusaderRabbit59 np thanks for replying
Hi im new to the game and struggling on this boss. Turned to YT and yours is the first I find. I really like the survivability and intuitive way you play it. I’m going to spec this build just for tougher fights thanks Man hope you are well
hello! thanks for tuning into my channel and taking the time to comment! good hunting! the Rabbit. =:3
@@CrusaderRabbit59 love you man No Diddy
Great video. How do you scan your film?
hello. thank- you for watching the video and for taking the time to leave such a nice comment. to scan my film i use a nikon D810 with a sigma 110 macro lens, a cinestill light pad purchased direct from cinestill, and a 3d printed minox 8mm film holder that i purchased off of etsy. i developed the film in a jobo tank using a 3d printed 8mm film reel (made specifically for use with the jobo tank) also purchased off of etsy. hope that helps. thanks again for watching. the Rabbit. =:3
update! recently went out to the kamerastore website to purchase a bay 1 lenshood for my baby rolleiflex and decided to bundle in a purchase of their valoi minox film holder designed specifically to pair with the cinelight pad. this should greatly increase the “ease of use” of my digital process for minox negatives. cheers, the Rabbit. =:3
Daylight film slitters from camerhack. .it. czcams.com/video/JAYwoxWHi1Y/video.htmlsi=cbk5vF9Inlmg8VA4
voz chata!
How can I activate that mission? Everything has happened and I don't have a Yuna mission.:((((
hello. thank you for watching the video. there are 2 dialog cut scenes in dlc3 and 2 in dlc4 you need to choose the harder option. in dlc3, when zeliska is asking for material gathering help, you choose the second option “leave it all to me” basically you have to kill each boss twice. also in dlc3, you have to buy the type z info from the rat for 30M. which MEans you have to have the 30M first before she asks for it. in dlc4 when seven asks for clothing help take the second option, “i know just where to look” and also in dlc4 when helping look for Yuna choose “search every inch of the place” ... unfortunately if you select one wrong then you need to do the whole dlc over. thanks again for watching and leaving a comment. hope that helps. the Rabbit. =:3
Thank you so much!!
@@waytjauz1846 i really hope that helps and you get the quest! no one wants to do a dlc over especially dlc4. i would suggest switching to easy mode and breeze through them as quick as possible being careful during the cut scenes to select the correct options. i do easy mode when i am starting up a new bounty toon, and i always get the skill freeze skill on my bounty toons so easy should work. i feel your pain i often get caught at the rat and not having the 30M and i have to do the whole dlc again. good luck! and thanks again for watching. the Rabbit. =:3
thanks for help bro
hello. thanks for watching and leaving a comment. i am really happy you found it useful. good hunting! the Rabbit. =:3
I purchased a Bessa L last year and am using a similar setup. The camera is easy to load when compared to most vintage rangefinders with Leica Thread Mount lens mount. I use a 35/50/100 viewfinder which is set at 50mm. The wider the lens, the easier it is to use. I find that 50mm is comfortable but would not recommend going over that number. I enjoy adjusting the camera with the manual settings. It gives me a better perspective of the shot. I paid slightly over $100 for the camera which only had a couple of rolls through it. The camera is well made (albeit in plastic) and easy to use once you become familiar with it. A true bargain.
What weapon did you use
hello! thank-you for watching and asking a comment. i am using a long stroke 4 (dropped from zodiac crown 47F-49F) (used mostly for buffing and for the handgun weapon arts) and a rapier type z (treasure box next to transport gate on 50F). thanks again for watching!! cheers, the Rabbit. =:3
made a quick video here, full stats equipment accessories skills gadgets reveal ... czcams.com/video/ker49LAcCIw/video.html
Thank you so much this helped me so much and got a blue rose and Gigas cedar
yo , i wanted to ask you if you didn’t mind if you could help me lvl up , im on lvl 20 rn 😭
sure. i just accepted your friend request. msg me on psn when you are online, we can do some behemoth mt-02 runs and lvl you up some!!! cheers, the Rabbit. =:3
@@CrusaderRabbit59im sorry Rabbit , i can’t get on for a few days. Thank you so muchh tho. I’ll tell you when im able to get on
I also reload Minox. If you use Ilford Ortho film, you can do all this under safelight. Makes it really easy. Orthochromatic film isn’t sensitive to safelight.
hello. thanks for taking the time to leave a comment! thats a really great idea. i am used to reloading in darkness now its almost second nature. but i can really see (no pun intended) where doing something like slitting 35mm down to 8mm would be alot safer under safelight. thanks again for participating in the comments section. cheers, the Rabbit. =:3
Ois 😘
Ois 😘
8MM?????? Holy shit, that's so small. like little tiny home movie stills.. o.o
oh that grain is BEAUTIFUL. HP5+ is amazing. Try some Panp 50 and FP4 sometime that might tighten up the grains a little for higher "resolution", maybe even try kodak tmax 100 or even cinema film. I'd *really* love to see some cinema film through this
hello! thanks again for commenting!!! i have acquired some fp4 and some adox for just that purpose. i have been doing my initial testing with hp5+ primarily just for cost savings. i will definitely be making some follow-up videos using the lower asa/iso films. thanks again for watching and commenting! cheers, the Rabbit. =:3
could you also use 16mm cinema film??? :o
a 100 burger unit roll of ORWO Wolfen NC500 film costs $55 on B&H rn i challenge you to shoot the whole thing in this xD
@@fenixlolnope361 if i buy 10x rolls of hp5+ i pay $70-$80 USD so lets call it $7.50 and i get slitting that down to 16mm x 18’ x 2 ... so its costing me ~ $3.75 USD to respool in hp5+ the minolta-16 ... so yes, this would be a cost savings.
@@CrusaderRabbit59 will the sprocket holes interfere?
hello! and thank-you very much for subscribing!! the minolta-16 manual shows respooling the 16mm film casette with double perf 16mm film. im not sure if its 16mm cine film or regular 8mm (sometimes called double 8) cine film. either way, i believe the answer to your question is “yes.” the manual specifies the length of the strip of film to be respooled be 18”.
@@fenixlolnope361 the minolta-16 manual seems to suggest that the sprocket holes will not interfere. i have a video somewhere where i try to use an exposed 16mm cine strip to respool and run through the camera and the camera jammed. however i now believe the reason the camera jammed was because the length of the strip i was respooling was longer than 18”. i could make a video and try this again, making sure i am using 18” or less of film to verify. thanks for contributing to the comments section and for your time in doing so. cheers, the Rabbit. =:3
part of me wants a minolta 16, the other part of me just wants a minolta 110 Zoom SLR >.>
this is super cool though, just for it being so small. Kinda scary even, this is more discrete than a smartphone because normies won't know what it is
hello! thank-you for watching and thank-you for your time in leaving a comment! my answer to your dillema would be, why not get both :-) ... i think my copy of the minolta-16 ii was $17.00 USD [edit: fact check: $17.99 USD] ... so entry into the subminiature camera hobby can be very wallet friendly 😊... since 110 and 16mm are the same size, i can develop both using the same 110/16mm developing reel for my jobo tank for both. as i was faced with the same dilemma as you i also chose to acquire the pentax 110 auto (pentax auto 110?). i will be making a video about that camera maybe at the end of this week or weekend. hopefully it doesnt rain all weekend lol 😂. thanks again for watching and leaving a comment. cheers, the Rabbit. =:3
Hi! You probably read this in the manual for the Киев-30 camera, but there is a distance scale for focusing from 0.5m 1m 1.5m 2m and infinity, but if you didn’t read it in the manual, then before the infinity symbol there is also a small red dot on the distance wheel, so this is 5m. The protective lens filter can be removed when the camera is disassembled in order to install filters in its place, yellow or orange, which previously came with the Киев-Вега camera. Thank you for your interest in Soviet photo technology!
hello! thank-you for watching and thank-you for your time when leaving your very informative comment! omg, yes, there is a red dot right next to the infinity mark. i had no idea that was for 5m. sadly i have not read the manual. and thank-you for letting me know that there are additional filters that will fit. i sort of gave it a small tug but it didnt seem like it was going anywhere but i will go back and revisit. at least for a light cleaning with a lens wipe. i will have to keep my eye out for any to be on sale. thanks-again for tuning into my youtube channel. the Rabbit. =:3
Those are some great looking negatives! 👍 A fast film combined with a small aperture (22mm/16 = ~1.3mm) and small frame size is certain to give a characteristic look to the resulting photos. Tweaks in processing (developer choice, push/pull, etc) are also immediately more evident than in larger formats like 35mm. I never really appreciated just how 'fast' ISO 400 film is until I started using subminiatures and cine cameras. Daylight exposures often call for stopping down to f/11 or f/16 even with a top shutter speed of 1/500s. Cine cameras often have fixed 1/30 shutters, Minox a fixed aperture, Minolta fixed focus, and the Mamiya... well the Mamiya does it all. Great submini series so far -- these film cameras are more fun than a Pokémon caught in a Bubblegum Crisis. 😛
hello! thanks again for watching and leaving a comment. know what you mean about fast films. daylight shooting with the minox with a fast film its hard to not over expose. i need to play more with the nd filter to get the hang of it. i was going to start playing with lower speed film. yes its been really fun playing with all these subminiatures so far. thanks for your insights and kind comments! cheers, the Rabbit. =:3
Minolta made 16mm still cameras over a period of about 20 years from the late 1950s. This model is one of the first. My experience was that the much later MG-S model, although also non-focusing (focus set to 10 feet) had a much sharper lens. When focused with the accessory focus lenses, the MG-S can give a very sharp print around 5x7 - 8x10 inches.
hello. thank you for watching and commenting on the video. very interesting hearing your experience with 16mm. all of my images seem to be just missing focus lol. cheers, the Rabbit. =:3
Looks like this copies the first version of the Minolta subminature from the late 1950s. It seems to reduce the number of shutter speeds, but adds focusing to the lens. Overall, probably an improvement. Wonder what film spec it requires?
hello!! thank-you for watching and taking the time to leave a comment. i cant wait to take some fresh 35mm hp5+ and slit it down to 16mm and give it a try. i would have today but its been raining all day long so hopefully tomorrow i can shoot a test roll with it. i cant wait to give the focus a try at both infinity and close up. thanks again for stopping by my channel. cheers, the Rabbit. =:3
lol Drink much coffee?
hello. thanks for watching and leaving a comment. they mostly drink coffee at work ... mostly. cheers, the Rabbit. =:3
It's no Leica, but it isn't a bubblegum crisis either
lol 😂 =:3
To any and all human beings, you have to beat all three DLCs to unlock the boss room after you get the five codes. Same thing for the boss at the forgotten temple and the lost gate with the five codes. Spread the word.
I encounter the same problem as yours frequently and I have no idea how to fix it
hello! thank-you very much for watching and taking the time and effort to leave a comment. i just ran a test using UNperforated 16mm film a little less than 18 inches and it ran through the camera flawlessly. soon as the sun comes up i will slit some fresh film and take a test roll outside. video will be up later today once the roll is developed, dried, and digitized. hope you can experiment and find something that works for you. thanks again for tuning into my channel. cheers, the Rabbit. =:3
18" should work perfectly. It's possible that the camera's lubricant has all dried out and so it's making it difficult to advance the film. Check that the pressure plate is moving away from the film when you wind on. I prefer the Minox system personally. Even the fixed focus EC gives me great results.
@@ianhand5006 hello! thanks for watching and leaving an awesome suggestion again. once i went to 18” and unperforated film the advance and shutter cocking worked flawlessly. i am interested to check the action of the pressure plate as you suggest. thanks again for your time and help. cheers, the Rabbit. =:3
When I stated haunting swap meets in the late 1970s, this was probably my first impulse buy, and I still have it tucked away. I agree that the camera, compared to other capable subminiatures, is larger and much heavier than average. The last time I checked, the meter still worked fine in mine. It uses a 16mm film format, small enough to allow loading movie film without cutting into the sprocket holes. I was in something of a sub-min craze at the time, so I did some very careful shooting with mine. Frankly, the image quality was fairly poor, and I never really used it again. In part, that was because (I think) Mamiya was the sole provider of film loads, and by the late 1970s, Mamiya had long abandoned providing film. The film cartridges, like the camera, are more robust than average, but were then very hard to find. I'm amazed that he found a complete one now, as they are usually broken into two sections (still usable). I later did a deep drive into the Minolta MG-S. While its lens doesn't focus, critical focus can be adjusted with supplementary lenses. For comparison, my Mamiya 16 Auto can make a semi-soft 4x5 inch print; my Minolta MG-S can give a sharp 5x7. (It does have the advantage of a larger format size.) Update: My imaging quality looks much the same as what he posts in his followup video on this camera. Not that great, IMO.
hello. thank you very much for watching and leaving a comment. very interesting learning what your experience with the camera was. i have also picked up a minolta-16 but i have not run a roll of film through it yet. mine does not have the focusing lenses (0,1,2) it came with the UV lens so interesting to see what focus will be like. thanks again for your time. cheers, the Rabbit. =:3
Most submini cameras have an extremely low barrier to entry and yet an impossibly high skill ceiling. All the cameras you mentioned are capable of 8x10 prints, or better, in the right hands when paired with modern films and expert processing. While getting huge, sharp enlargements is a fun challenge, it mostly misses the point for using these cameras in the modern day. Its educational, inexpensive, and boy are those photos terrible 😛 Back to the Mamiya 16, I find it to be the ideal 'studio submini', if that isn't an oxymoron. Tripod mount, cable release, and bulb mode (features sorely lacking in the minolta 16 line) combined with a fast lens, shutter speeds down to 1/5s, a full parallax-corrected focus range, and flash sync makes for extremely capable studio tool. (Edit: to clarify I have the 1960 'De Luxe' model not the automatic featured here but I believe the feature sets are mostly the same.) I find the limitations of the Minolta 16 make them better suited for random photo walks as the fixed focus should factor into how you choose subjects and compositions if indeed you're after 'sharp images'.
@@rappler32 hello. thank-you for taking the time to contribute to the comments section with an informative and insightful comment. cheers, the Rabbit. =:3
5:16 oof K-ON
hello. thanks for watching and leaving a comment. and yes, k-on (Death Devil). Mugi is leaning up against a mystery lens. when i bought the lens it was advertised as Rollei bayonet mount (QBM?), but when it arrived i realized it was too small. thanks again for watching, cheers, the Rabbit. =:3
You loaded the take up spool incorrectly. It looks like you wound the film in the wrong direction. 18" of film will give you 20 exposures.
hello! thanks for watching and leaving a suggestion. so you think maybe i am putting in too much film. i will give that a try, thanks. cheers, the Rabbit. =:3
I have reloaded Minolta 16 cartridges many times. I get all set up, with the cartridge feed chamber and cap handy to be located in complete darkness. Then, to spool the film in a tight roll, emulsion side in, I use a ‘spinner dowel’. That is a 5/16 diameter wood dowel, with a slot cut 16mm deep in one end with a wide blade e-xato razor saw. Hold the film I insert one end in the slot, then letting my thumb and forefinger glide along the edge of the film I rotate the dowel until the film is rolled onto it tightly, leaving 1 inch out. Then I pull the roll off the dowel, holding it tight, and insert in the cartridge feed side, leaving the 1 inch hanging out the felt light trap. Now locate the feed chamber cap and put it in place. Now, with the film protected you can turn on the lights, and complete the loading. First, put a bit of blue, low tack masking tape to secure the feed cap, then pull out enough film to tape to the take up spool, then place that in the take up chamber, replace cap and tape it on. Mark the tape on type of film and ISO with fine point sharpie. Your cartridge is ready to load into the camera. Clear as mud?
Where did you find the 35mm film splitting tool?
hello! thanks for watching and leaving a comment! both my 8mm and 16mm slitters i purchased on etsy! thanks again for tuning in hope you visit again. cheers, the Rabbit! =:3
i placed a link to the etsy listing of the 35mm to 8mm slitter that i purchased. hope that helps. cheers, the Rabbit. =:3