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I don't but the measurement wasn't super critical. Just gotta cover that little area with the moving partsthat the water ends up dripping down out of

Cup area measured in mm is 8.2 deep x 64 long on one side and 67 on other side x 15mm wide. Then it has a thin flanged surface its attached to for gluing it on the truck so you got nice surface to glue to. That dimension was 85mm long on one side and 78 on the other x 34 wide

@@briansnik1848thank you so much for the help!

​@@TheCampbell45no prob man. This fixed my truck for good👍 . Use someone who knows what they're doing on a good 3d printer to make these. Tell them it's gotta hold water!!. Mine leaked in between layers so i had to seal them with caulk outside my catch cups. Important!! Report back if it works out! Watch my other videos for the other mods for waterproofing the gutter troughs. I think i put all the links in this videos description 👍

I actually have found that 3d printing things isn't the best method for holding water. Because it can leak thru tiny imperfections in the printed layers.. so what i did was completely seal the outside of my already installed catch cups with a high grade rtv sealant. So really now my catch cups are really doing nothing but holding the shape while i smear the goop over em and problem solved. Pain in the ass. But man mine has been great since. I did those other mods to the gutter trough ends on my other video and man problem free since. Whoever designed this was close to having it set up awesome, but close only counts in horse shoes and hand grenades!! This was destined to fail bro. Water gets in!!! Duh!!

If it won't feed then the anvil is set too high. Lowering the anvil and blades adjusted out more will feed better. I don't really understand why it would have fed nicely for a week?.. did the anvil possibly move(down) and out of spec?

It could have had something to do with the type of brush you were chipping also for that week.. i set my anvil too high once and it would eat the whole piece of brush but not the little tiny sticks. They were butted up against the front of the anvil and would absolutely not chip.. lowered the anvil and brought the blades out more and fixed the problem..

My cuzzy made mine. Anyone who 3d prints stuff can design and make them pretty easy. I will say this tho. 3d printing isn't the best for water proof stuff. So if you go that route, make sure to seal them nicely with caulk or something. One of mine (3d printed catch cup) needed to be waterproofed better because it leaked. Looong after i made the video.. i did some good sealing with some high quality caulk and it's been perfect ever since. And been thru MAJOR rain

Ernesto. Glad to help. Fixed mine too.

If your talking about the drum you don't grease it.

@@suemiddleton3903 thanks for your reply

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Hope this helps brother.... it fixed me up for good! If you 3d print catch cups seal them up on the outside with rtv! (3d printed stuff can leak between the layers of print so seal it up good! *ask me how i know??)........ watch all the videos i linked in the description of the link i just i just sent u....

@@briansnik1848 I don't have a 3D printer, what epoxy did you use? Now that I have mine apart it is easy to see where you applied it... Thanks!

It was like a 5 minute cure time epoxy. Part a and b and wammo ,it's hardened quick! Any epoxy should work tho

Man i just watched the whole video and i can't remember how it comes off. It wasn't hard to get but i think it was glued possibly? I think i just carefully pryed it off and i think i remember there is a release spot that helps you get it unmated. ..watch the other vids for clues!

Yep i just checked other vid, there are 2 mating male tips that go into the aluminum track, so you pry downward to get it off. Hope this helps. This is a bad ass mod!... stupid rain leak got its ass kicked

Are you the ufc fighter?

Tell andy thanks for printing my parts!! Happy new year fellas. Here's to a leak free year?!

They're out there. Depends what you need. And what year and type. Mine is J.E.Y. model I think. 12 inch drum model

The fly wheel alone was I think 440lbs. The drum I'm not sure. But the combined weight of flywheel and drum at 1900rpms equals over 200,000 ft lbs of stored energy,, just waiting for something to touch that first razor sharp blade and suck it thru. Yikes

The old blades in mine had hairline cracks in them.so I bought new. I heard that some people throw them down hard on the concrete to see if they crack in half, if they don't they send them out for sharpening... bandit sells them cheap... safety is a major concern here!

Also, if your blades are terrible, the cutter bar is probably in need of service also. It can be rotated 3 times before it's junk...it's like scissors, the blades are one side of the scissor and the cutter bar is the other, good luck

peter montalbano what’s the proper name for those bolts

what’s the proper name for those bolts

@@Rika1ification we went to napa, brought in the old ones. got grade 8. Held up so far. Altec bought asphlund. you can get parts from them. The last person didnt know how to set up the blades and block. I have a spare new set as we send the old ones out to get sharpened at a local wood mill. I also just put a pertronix ignition system on it today because I dont know much about points so this was just easier and it runs much smoother.

Sorry, didn't see your comment till today. Not that hard to do. Just have to make sure the mating surfaces are pristine(clean as a whistle) and that the torque sequence is done right. Read all about it first because any failure here could result in death.

Where can you find the torque info?

@@timothycarey4629 I found good info on arborist site.com. the manual is posted on that site somewhere..