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Awesome! Hey thanks for taking the time to watch! Hope you decide to stick around.

No boost controller, plumb a line from the compressor housing (if you have a port on it) to the bottom of the gate. Leave the top port open to atmosphere. Make sure all other BOTTOM ports are plugged so that the gate can work and make sure you DO NOT cap the top ports otherwise you will make all the boost.

I was just at the junkyard today too! 🤔

@@Knownworldwide best way to go k on a budget bro. And them k24a4’s move too. You can always upgrade later

@@dormroomxnostalgia378 true true. Will have to keep that in mind. I kinda don’t want to go away from the b-series since I already paid for the swap mounts and linkage and hydro to cable conversion stuff you know. But we’ll see. I am hoping to drop a video this coming week with some more stuff on the civic. Thanks for tuning in. Really means a lot.

Thanks for taking the time to watch the videos! Really appreciate that, hope you decide to stick around for awhile.

Sounds good! What type of Mitsubishi you working on?

What transmission are you using?

@@Knownworldwide S80 4.7 LSD

Sorry, I just saw this. Yes you can use the 94-01 Integra axles. You need to use the 94-01 Integra intermediate shaft from a MT car.

Thanks, I fitted the shafts came with tht engine, looks like it's perfect.. yet to test it, waiting for post mount bracket and t bracket..

With great struggle I did this: Disassemble the turbo completely, compressor housing then center cartridge Instal exhaust housing onto the manifold and tighten it all down. Install the manifold onto the motor now and tighten it all down. Install the center cartridge (I am not using one of the bolts) Install the compressor housing (I am Also not using one of the bolts)

@@Knownworldwide this explains quite a bit 😅thanks for the answer, im going to try this tommorow, i realized after struggling to get the drain line on that i would basically have no way of reaching any of the nuts to tighten the turbo to the manifold.

What resistance are you trying to increase?

@@Knownworldwide I'm glad you can reply to my message now, I mean resistors

@@Knownworldwide May I ask how I can contact you

I assume you mean on the crank signal? Is it breaking up at high rpm’s?

@@Knownworldwide yess，He gradually becomes normal above 4000 rpm, but sometimes he cannot exceed 3000 rpm

Sweet! Looking forward to seeing it man! Pick up a camera.

You don’t need to do anything with them if you’re not planning on using them. Mine are just there open. It’s just an inlet and an outlet. So if nothing is going in, nothing will come out. Thanks for taking the time to watch the video. Hope you decide to stick around.

Thanks! How is your car coming along?

@Knownworldwide Good! Finally hooked up the coolant lines for the intercooler, can't get away with the winter temps anymore 😅 Going to Santa Pod Raceway to drag race it at JapShow on Sunday!

@Knownworldwide Good! Finally ran the coolant lines for the air water intercooler, can't get away with the cold winter air anymore 😅 Going to SantaPod raceway to drag race it on Sunday, curious to see where it's at in its current form

@@Upperfoot can’t wait! Send some footage!

Just bought a na-t setup sold my is300 for another with the na-t setup and I’m excited for it hope it sounds and moves as smooth as yours

Lol, yep! I need to deposit more coins I guess. Really you can’t do anything with the 1-2 shift because there isn’t an accumulator that you can shim so you pretty much just left with whatever you get after turning up the line pressure (mine is on max now) These things really aren’t designed to be launched like this. Better roll racing as the 2-3 and 3-4 shifts are better.

It looks a lot better than stock. When you’re driving regular is it harsh?

@@BringYourBestOne Nope. Just slightly firmer shifts but you really couldn’t tell. It’s definitely much better than stock. When I was only running around just 4psi it was really bad. I would left of throttle on every shift because I felt bad for the transmission haha.

I’m pulling mine tonight. I have an sc430. It’s about the same hp stock.

@BringYourBestOne Your car (if stock) should be putting down around 235-240ish wheel. It will definitely shift much better. I am making just a bit more power (~30-40hp more) and mine is doing OK so far.

Dyno video I have up made 270 wheel. If I had a proper 3” exhaust (currently just stock exhaust) it’s probably close to around 290ish. It’s definitely much funner to drive than stock haha.

​@@Knownworldwideany 3 exhaust in mind or u can suggest?

@@alialsuwaidi4301 I will be going with the Greddy RS revolution. The GREDDY SP is nice too. I don’t think there are many true 3” systems for our cars out there. Pretty sure there are only 3 or 4. The two above, the Apexi N1 (has to be the turbo system) and maybe Figs makes one?

Haha. You are my friend. Thanks for watching the video! Hope to decide to stick around.

Me to my guy, me too. This is my buddies car. I did this work for him and let him know what else needs to be sorted. It’s still sitting at his shop. I will try and get some more clips of it if I can. Thanks for watching!

@@Knownworldwide lol oops idk why it commented on this video I was writing a comment on your is300 track video and this one started I guess so the comment went here strange but I meant 10psi for the is300

@@nickmanchesi4795 lol! I mean we can run 10psi on both right?

Awesome! I do like the sound of this system. Probably will never change it. Anything done to your GS or S13? Also thanks for watching! Hope you decor stick around!

Lol, thanks bro! They are working well.

Great to hear man and i mean i have the ls400 bbk but u caught more my attention when u said about the rcf 6 piston brakes so how would that work?

@@edgarrojas9628 you can use these same brackets. You just need rcf calipers and rotors. Pretty sure you gotta run a 19” wheel though.

Damn i was tryna keep the 18s😂

It is a 62/66 size turbo. I definitely have gone over everything if you want to just watch the videos. There is one specifically about the turbo I put on as well as supporting mods. Thanks for taking the time to watch this short! Hope you decide to stick around. PleaE feel free to ask anything else.

11.5-11.6 is perfect. I wouldn’t want it any leaner.

@@Knownworldwide yes that's good , I thought I saw the wideband hit 10.

@@anthonye3680 Man, I’m sorry buddy. My mistake. This was long before I had it on the dyno. Pretty much just getting into road tuning it. It is definitely around 11.5-11.6 afr now. Thanks for watching and I hope you decide to stick around! Please check out the dyno session video!

Thanks!

Yes. However I suggest using a B18B intake manifold since the B20 intake manifolds are very tall. Might not clear the hood without running spacers on the hood hinges.

Lol! Your boy was getting warm in there. That was like me throwing the parachute after a pass.

Lol, same! I am still waiting on getting the correct 3” cat back exhaust so that I don’t just recirculate back into a stock exhaust. Sounds good out the car for sure. Inside its getting old haha.

Let’s go to the next one bro!

@@Knownworldwidewill do👊

I wanna see you driving that wagon man! Get out there!

Yeah man! It’s definitely fun going out to the track here and there. I am most happy with the stand alone. It’s been flawless and definitely worth it.

Up on the main windows menu bar (very top) where it says “File” “open” etc…. Follow those headings all the way to the right and there should be something called settings or setup or something like that. When you click on it, at the very top of that long menu there should be a selection to go from imperial (metric) to American readings (it will say experimental on it)

@@Knownworldwide thanks

Yes! Highly recommend switching to a stand alone if you or anyone reading this comment wants to boost their is300. Well in the dyno session video I was able to make 8psi (at the tippy top of 3rd) so really it was 7psi the whole way through. So I may go back here in a couple weeks and see what the car will run on that boost level. I still need to step up to some bigger injectors to turn it up more.

Thanks! Yeah the car is running great! Best part is it drive there and back home without a problem! AC works great! Cruise control works great?

Hey, first off, thanks for taking the time to watch the video! Hope you decide to stick around. I did a video on switching turbos here: The IS300 Gets a NEW TURBO! czcams.com/video/UQ7cNTp_mTo/video.html Basically, if you are running the CX kit, you will be restricted to utilizing the same 3” v-band exhaust housings and the same compressor outlet sizes.

@@Knownworldwide ohhh how much do you think the is300 would push hp wise if it was like around 10 psi?

@@abransanchez7176 if you are using the same size turbo I am with a proper 3” exhaust should be around 370-380 wheel with a manual With an auto maybe around 350wheel. Of course every dyno is going to read differently so what I say isn’t set in stone.

Yeah it is. Time to hit 12psi now

@@Knownworldwidethat’s dope but do u have supporting rods?

@@demitrioushicks4664 This motor is an unopened stock GE motor.

@@Knownworldwide I wouldn’t go over 13lbs of boost without rods

@@demitrioushicks4664 didn’t plan on it.

Hey! Yeah man it’s working flawlessly. Haven’t had a single problem with it. Not bad for a cheap turbo I guess. Your running the CX turbo now?

Are you using their plug and play harness?

Hit me on IG if you have it. Knownworld_wide easier to talk there if that’s cool?

@@Knownworldwide will do brother. Preciate it.

Should be inside the head of the key. Most of them are within the black portion of the key. Of course by now who knows what previous owners (multiple) have done to the car’s electronics by now.

@@Knownworldwide As confusing as it is, it was not. When I first got it only had one key and just got a regular one cut from the original for a couple bucks. I used that key till I got rid or the car, actually still have the original lol. I mean it's possible that it was modified but seems unlikely since it was stock and still had a B18B1. Although my car never had the unlock fob, the person I got it from said in order to get it he would have had to take it to the dealer and etc. So maybe it's only if the immobilizer gets activated it works?

@@aaronhoward7226 Well that’s news to me haha. Thanks for the information.

Haha. Finally found a guy that is going to recirculate my waste gate dump.

@@Knownworldwide what’s that going to do

@@geraldstorch6400 stop it sounding like that haha. It’s loud outside when the gate is open. I personally like the dump recirculated back into the down pipe. Allows me to hear the turbo spool as an added bonus.

@@Knownworldwide me too I’ve hated that sound from the get go I’m like where’s all the cool turbo sounds at ? Lol

@@geraldstorch6400 some people like the sound and don’t get me wrong it is a cool sound when on the limiter (drift cars, burn out cars) but normal everyday driving it gets old.

Fr

It’s pretty cool. Drives much better now for sure!

Is your car automatic? Thanks for watching! Hope you decide to stick around.

@@Knownworldwide yes I’m automatic Lexus is300

Sure I’ll stick around I’m kinda tuned now just basic but I need to learn as much as I can with the system I have now

@@geraldstorch6400 Are you using the “start up” tune from the ECU masters website? If you have IG it’s easier to communicate there. Look me up Knownworld_wide

Glad to hear you got it up and running! To be completely honest what you did with the plastic clip is probably right. I can’t remember and if it was a big deal, I’m sure I would have mentioned it. Time for boost now?

@@Knownworldwide Yeah, will get wrenching next week,. Just need to get the yearly state inspection done before - they wont like the snail under the bonnet lol.

We all start learning somewhere haha

Thanks. Pretty random but figured why not haha. Been itching to get the Lexus to the track but it’s still not open.

Zero issues. My hood shuts just fine. No rubbing at all. You can just run a spacer/washers on the back of the hood to clear. Should work but you know some don’t like that look but it’s what every used to do (and still do) back in the day.

Thanks for watching btw! Hope you decide to stick around.

Hey thanks for watching! Hope you decide to stick around! I bought the axles from Orielly auto parts. Driver side is: NI8434 Pass side is: NI8438

@Knownworldwide much appreciated you didn't have any issues with the axles bolting in like them being too long? All these years I had z32 axles and couldn't figure out why I kept going through bearings til now

@@brandontization Nope the J30 axles have always been just the right length when you install the Z32 diff into the S13. The Z32 axles don’t fit right as you now know. I have been using J30 axles for years now. Not in this 240 but in others back in the day for a long time with zero issues.

@Knownworldwide Ok good! Idk why I haven't figured this out til now lol

@brandontization Well, you learn something new everyday right? That is the saying I suppose. If you poke around on old car forums from 2003-2006 it’s been WELL documented for years and years. So much so that people would rather not even consider making videos about it now since it’s “common knowledge” among 240 owners. However, I know there are younger folks from eighteen even on through late twenties who might not know. So here we are.