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Thank you for enjoying the ambient backing tracks. I try to select music that isn’t too heavy sounding

Hi There Our system ends in the final hi wear oil sealer designed for forklift traffic and commercial food preparations. Its largest benefit is that it doesn’t require a reseal and literally won’t wear away unless you diamond grind it. The sealer is also chemical resistant and stain resistant to basically everything and specially doesn’t harbour that pink mould. After 4 years a shower with this sealer would certainly not have worn away. We do not recommend water based polyurethane be used in any wet areas for micro.

As a side note we are offering two Microcement wall and shower courses coming up this year. You can see them at shop.5starfinishes.ca/products/microcement-wall-and-shower-training-course or on any of our home pages for 5 star finishes or our shop page.

Hi James. If your floor is tile we recommend using the Kerdi system many are familiar with and wrapping the membrane up the walls or wall only around 6 inches. Once the tile is installed and grouted then finish the wall either hardi board, dens, or blue board with fast set and tape in with angles etc etc, and bring to level 4 finish. Then prime with our leplex primer and apply the Ardex 8 9 system overlapping the Kerdi and bringing it to the tile floor. Then the Microcement layers start to build up and overlap over the tile and finally the sealers are also brought just a little over everything again. Once the sealers are dry a small bead of color matched mapei silicone sanded or unsanded should be applied. I have never heard of or seen an issue if you do this correctly. In any and all circumstances Microcement should be applied up to and sealed over stone not the other way around.

I'm now seeing this floor was tiled! Going to rewatch a zoom in and see what I can see :)

Hi there. Thank you for your thoughtful question. In all circumstances I am always an advocate for installing all stone, tile, benches, niches and counters etc so that the Microcement can cap down and over all these areas. This creates a seal without silicone that can last a lot longer than doing it the other way and relying on only silicone to prevent leakage and risking water drawing up the raw micro behind the sealer etc. We silicone these areas as well but that’s more for aesthetic and an added layer of protection. It’s best to always have the waterproofing down under all tile areas etc and wrapped up or over to your micro portions and then tie into them with Ardex 8 9 as we recommend.

Hi there, the sealer says its minimally color enhancing which means it can certainly change the color and if it absorbs more in areas than others it will create blotches etc. The only way to make it more even is potentially flooding it again with more product to try and obtain a more even color enhancement although not likely to help. I would check with them and see if this sealer is compatible with colorants and tint it slightly to help create a more even look.

This is Color 21 on the Microcement chart. The golden hue of the sand brings a warmth to the plain white color. It’s a 5% titanium dioxide tint strength which isn’t white enough to mask the sandy undertones.

Hi Daniel Shop.5starfinishes.ca and if you send the total sq ft inside and outside the shower as well as floor etc broken up with images I can prepare a draft order detailing all the products in Shopify for you. We also do Color matches and have waterproofing and tools that you will require. We ship to Canada and USA currently.

You can do it!

Usually these areas are hidden in a tub surround below the tub etc and the entrance door is simply plastered all the same and then installed for a seamless finish with only the edged outline showing same as it would be for a tile. I don’t see any difference at all.

Many Microcement showers we have done have had the small hinges installed after and we have never seen an issue. The product should have mesh installed near those areas in the base coat and as long as there is proper backing and they pre drill the Microcement prior to installing there shouldn’t be an issue. If the wall itself is not reinforced properly and bends then certainly issues can arise but we have not seen any so far.

Yes the Microcement synergy video on our channel I feel shows every detail very well and is extremely long to ensure all the details are not lost

Glad I could help

I’m sorry I missed this comment before. We used Ardex 8 9 for the waterproofing and then used our Microcement wall and shower system sold at shop.5starfinishes.ca. We manufacture our own plasters and systems.

I don’t think it’s unique to Microcement. If I were doing any of our finishes I would complete all the walls at the same time. Usually whatever plaster you are finishing on one wall will harden enough after burnishing and smoothing etc that the inside corner is firm and you can continue on to the next wall without damage.

In some circumstances it is fine especially for smaller walls that flex less etc. Foam is not good for curbs, seats or floors and we still recommend using the Ardex system if possible over the foam instead of the Kerdi band. You can see why at the start of our synergy micro video. If care is taken and is a diy you can have more luck with Kerdi but the Ardex is a better system for Microcement.

All the info is provided in the application guide for download on the shop under Microcement wall and shower and also under the Microcement floor. They each have their own mixing ratios although the floor product in particular has exact ratios to follow in the guide. The wall product I usually just mix by eye to an easy applying consistency. The second basecoat is always mixed little more wet and the synergy is applied by roller in a paint consistency. The Synergy is quite variable for water ratios and just needs to be paintable. It will thicken more and more as it rests and can be remixed without adding water afterwards to maintain the same color.

Yep! Thdre is one place in AZ 😅 found that has been here for 30 years but they do not deal with any water areas..... i have go pay to ship in products which doubles ur costs. USA is slower then rest of world on this. PIA! Unless u want to become a distributor for companies and pay for their training... I spent months of research on this! Annoying

Which brand of microcement did you use ? thank you

Over tile they just need to be cleaned and any silicone removed if in shower and then the extreme primer plus is used as a primer which will bind the microcement to the tiles on a floor or in a shower etc. Usually our eifs mesh is used for floors but I rarely recommend it for wall tiled surfaces . Tile is actually the best substrate for microcement in my opinion

@@5starfinishesltd693 Have you ever gone over travertine?

Thank you

Hi Hitmon. We are very busy with some large projects at the moment and then those videos will go up as well. I am simply documenting each product and project as they happen. The next time we do a floor I will for sure show the entire process. To go over uncoupling membranes with heated wires you must pour ardex k60 over to one quarter inch above the highest point of the uncoupling membrane and then install the microcement system as laid out in our guide.

Tutorial up now under our Microcement spa. Yes absolutely just install the wires in the uncoupling and then pour Ardex k60 to around half inch total so quarter inch above the uncoupling and then prime and mesh as usual or if in a wet area etc you can roll Ardex 8 9 as primer. In the video we also added Ardex 8 9 just as an added crack prevention prior to adding the adhesive mesh.

Hi Keith probably around 30 hrs for two people

Hi Kimberly sorry for the late reply. You can purchase the system at shop.5starfinishes.ca. You can also email info@5starfinishes.ca for more info or help with your order

you can purchase at shop.5starfinishes.ca or email info@5starfinishes.ca for more info or help with your order

BM Inukshuk and Stone hearth blended on the wall as two different plaster colors

Hi Roman. I honestly have never understood why people sand not only does it require expensive equipment it also takes time and leads to dust that isn't easily removed and can act as a bond breaker. If you have a good product and apply each coat nicely there is absolutely no reason to sand.

I usually see installers leave massive ridges and then sand them back. Easier to just apply with a skilled hand and not sand.

The sanding is not necessary, but it can give a different look more popular in Europe. Sanding combined with high end micro cements gives a more mottled/aged look with more variations in the coloring. The burnishing while wet followed by sanding while no more than 60-70% dry cause alignment in mineral particles to create a look that makes the walls look 100s of years old. If you have to squint to see the mottling it’s not it. A mix that doesn’t have the right combination of mineral powders and binders won’t do it. It’s also very labor intensive, so of you like the plain surface look, definitely don’t bother with the extra steps!

Hi Maxim. Thank you so much for your kind comments and I am happy that this may help you in the future. I to spent many years trying to find knowledge and it's hard to find and most videos and guides don't actually tell you how to do things. We will be making more content with all our products soon.