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Yeah. That's definitely an option and would save a print. I didn't like the look of the handle hanging down from the top though. My favorite suggestion was just putting the handle on the back of the box only. So it doesn't end up on either side, it would be a flat piece, faster to print, etc. If I re-work these, that'll likely be the direction I take it.

That's definitely an option. Most of this is aesthetic but it also adds a handle to it, making it easier to pull off the shelf. If there wasn't a handle on it (for this shelf) there wouldn't be enough room to actually get my fingers over or on the box to even pull them out.

That might work for some of the lighter boxes. I have a few boxes that weigh a lot though, like the box with a few Nema 17 stepper motors, so I don't think the hot glue would hold up over time.

lol yeah you could. This design gives each of the boxes a handle to grab on to though, otherwise it would be a total pain trying to pull them off the shelf especially when they have a lot of weight.

@@makerloop Hey mate I agree the boxes need a handle but you mention how your label holder makes the box unable to sit flat without additional parts might be to late but you would have been probably better served with just adding a simple handle on the front and a larger label stuck directly to the box just my opinion tho as they say "if it works and it's stupid it's not stupid".

@@Funoholic haha I love the saying. I don't think the front would be a great place for it, since it doesn't latch or anything, you'd be pulling the box open a bit as you pulled it off the shelf. However, that's a good idea for the back of the box! Similar to how I have it now. Would probably want to redesign the attachment method, but otherwise that could work.

lol that's absolutely fair. I'd like to say it's purely an aesthetic choice to keep the labels on the bottom, but in reality I'm an idiot and it didn't even occur to me. I did go through and flip some over to see it and I still prefer the look of them on the bottom but could definitely save a print keeping them on the top.

Definitely could! It changes the aesthetic a little bit, but definitely works and saves a print.

This is really good feedback. Water usage, while not too much of an issue in most places, is rapidly becoming a concern, particularly in the western united states. I love the idea of using a 3D printed template to cut out cardboard. I'll have to do some experiments with that, it's not something I had thought to consider. I have been working on a Drag Knife for my CNC machine, and so that could be an option for cutting out designs: czcams.com/users/shorts5AYvQfwtWVY Overall, yeah, the environmentally friendly concept is entirely too complex. From just getting the resources that make your material, to shipping concerns, recyclability, weight, and how it's disposed are only starting points to the equation. It's a pretty intense rabbit hole that seems to have no end.

Foam balls would definitely work to get the product safely delivered, but it would be a less than ideal customer experience having to dig around for all the pieces.

There was a very small difference in the final stamp itself, but only just barely noticeable. Not worth the extra print time.

Here's a photo of the result, the top is the not ironed and the bottom one is ironed: photos.app.goo.gl/dBbqdL1eLdNFJ7QA7

That's another really clever and cheap option!

Wow. Definitely didn't use any AI to write the script, but I did use Adobe Premier's Dialogue AI Enhance stuff. I had really bad mic interference (not sure what caused it yet) but the tool fixed almost all of the issues, I didn't know it could merge/blend the words though!

There is a certain irony in your remark.

Oh wow, I didn't even notice I was doing that. Yeah that's a very different material.

The one in the video is this 5 gallon one: ( amzn.to/4bqL4ne ) definitely could do a smaller one for stamps, but I have a number of other projects that I do that are bigger and it's nice to have the volume.

You're absolutely right. It takes just a little bit more effort to model the mold area as a single volume to use as a subtraction. Definitely a clean way to get exact numbers with the object volume then. I'd probably still add ~5%-10% extra to the number for something this small since not everything comes out of the cup, some gets stuck to the stirring stick, etc. Always lame to have to mix up a second batch really quick.

If you used a really soft TPU you could get a decent result. Nothing sticks to silicone rubber though, which helps give a very clean stamp result. With TPU you're likely going to see print lines in your resulting stamp (which could be a cool look if that's what you're aiming for)

With TPU or even flexible PLA, it's way too firm and it really doesn't want to hold ink. It'll work, but the silicone is much softer and way better for making perfect stamps. I just went through this a month ago, wish I'd thought to use cast silicone.

Oh that's a great idea!

Right. It wasn't something that jumped out to me at first until I started looking at adding some design elements to my shipping boxes (without getting them expensively printed in a bulk order). It opens up a lot of options for cool designs, especially with how easy it is not having to do negatives or mold boxes or anything, just drop some silicone in and good to go.

Not sure how it happened either but I'm here for it!

Installing the poly spatial tooling from the getting started guide and then adding the openxr package and the openxr samples will probably get what you're looking for. It was far easier to get a decent project going once I had those. The basic examples from the poly spatial stuff just wasn't enough.

It does, my most recent project utilized it through Unity3D to do plane targeting. There's still a couple things that are not fully supported, but it works really well.

Definitely not the same guy, but I am curious what videos you're referring to?

Hey Roger, thanks for watching! I don't anticipate making any more videos about the AVP specifically (though it's possible). For this channel I'm focused more on an engineering aspect of creating things (CAD, 3D Printing, CNC, etc.). I have some future videos coming up though that will merge my background of real time 3D development and AR experiences with my upcoming projects. They're more likely to use iOS/Android or Quest as the primary device though.

The one I'm using in the video is the Keychron K3 Version 2: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08LSJ4RHH

lol, it's a Keychron one, they make an almost absurd amount of variations, this one in particular is the Keychron K3 version 2.

Wow! I had been able to grab the bar under the window a few times to bring it over, but it was tricky, never thought to click on the window. That's super helpful, thank you!

A long press on the crown button will realign all your screens without you grabbing them back

​@@tonyabracadabra6935 oh wow, that feels like something I should have found and I completely missed it

Absolutely. Definitely some limitations to the simulator but a really good start and maybe those limitations will go away with time?

Thank you! First step is to test them out in the wild, so I'll be doing some small batch runs and making them from my home workshop.

@@makerloop I'll be watching for them!

hahaha yeah! I actually tried a little stop motion video with them turning around like that and it made a sort of matrix effect.