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Thanks yea the brace worked quite well for me.

What a small world hahaha

The drone can be a bit much on the highway for 8 hours. It is definatly loud but nobody I know has told me they thought it was too much. But man it sounds good when you open it up and run the tach out

im 90% sure its the starter. i havnt fixed it yet tho. ive been procrastinating on that.

its our best survival trait. humans are very good at knowing "something seems wrong" even if we cant say for sure what it is. its the figuring out what is wrong where knowledge and practice come in

right!?!

Hey man thanks for the sub. We also have a kswap 1970 mgb on the go too if that's something your interested in. I'm always down for collabs if you got some ideas shoot me a DM or email me breadboxracing@gmail.com

yea its a big job for sure im happy its mostly done now and i can roll the car around without scaffolding to hold it straight

Power company is replacing a bunch of poles at a substation. They shut of power to about 9500 homes

@@breadboxracingand4x4 Well Polish people need jobs too.

@@Dee-gi4ge lol

with how i built theses it would next to impossable to guarantee fitment it wasnt that hard to make these tho. a cheep harbour freight welder, a grinder and a cordless drill is really all the tools you need oh and a hammer

@@breadboxracingand4x4 I have thought about grabbing these tools just to have and the body I have is good and complete. Minimum I see is needing the adapter plate, flywheel, and possibly harness. Not building to race but don’t mind some extra horses.

i agree its not that fast but for a b series where your ignition is still distributor based. and its batch fire injection cause it only has crank signal it should be plenty fast enough. lots of guys out there useing these for high reving 4 cyl streetbikes so should be fine

is that simpler? in my opinion a little wiring work is easier and simpler than a whole bunch of extra plumbing and running new wires and harnesses for the controller and guages. that route would also have been quite expensive. vs this which was essentially free cause i already had the parts from the truck

@@breadboxracingand4x4 yea it would definitely cost more but i was just thinking it would super nice to eliminate so much emissions crap lol to me running gauges is easy versus pin out figuring out. Wiring harness adapting is frustrating as hell to me and it seems nothing ever works right without a bunch of adapting lol. You could even swap in a built th400 or 700R4 with a 205 case and have almost no wiring to deal with. Basically an early 70s chevy drivetrain. Just ideas I'm having while binge watching your swap videos.

all good points. thankfully i live in canada still a great option for budget race cars tho

thanks man! hopefully soon here ill get to finish re-rebuilding the tcase here soon and be able to post a video of the thing actually out wheeling

yea it turned out pretty great. the intercooler mounting expecially worked out good

Thanks

never hurts to get some testing done.

RIGHT!?!

each* Also I have often burned food because of this. So I switched to meals in the crockpot!

crockpot meals are the best!

yup the secrets out

definatly never bored hahahah

It's hard for things like this cause if I call them sills I make the north american crowd angry and if I call them rockers I make the European croud angry. In north America we call them rocker panels even the us division of moss motors has them labeled as rocker panels. It's the same as the trunk/boot or hood/bonnet argument I'm just stuck in the middle trying/failing to make everyone happy

i dont have any experience with the newer trucks unfortunatly so it would be kinda a crap shoot

thanks for watching! this weekend i plan on swapping the tcase then i can actually use the thing and wheel it some. but it has driven to the car show two years in a row since the swap under its own power and always starts up right away. there will be some videos on this thing coming in the next few months for sure

it was a bit convoluted but i used the jeeps original base model rear driveshaft with a conversion ujoint at the tcase and the chevy output yoke. in the front i used the chevy front driveshaft with a conversion ujoint at the differential. it was just happy accident that the shaft lengths were close enough. course this may all change this weekend when i finally put the manual tranfer case in and ditch the autotrack one that was stuck in 2wd

I was contemplating using the stock 4l80 case when I do mine, but I wasn't sure if it was controllable to switch from 2wd. I couldnt find much info on it

@@MrWubDUbDub if you could figure out the outputs its expecting it would be for sure. but nobody has ever put an oscilloscope on one of the trucks that I found to figure out what sort of signaling and power the truck sends to the case. that and I wanted to interior to look mostly original except for the cluster so manual it was. these cases are probably easier to find in the states

yes you could do that. however they did a really bad job of the programming on the 42 RE. the hsift points are just awefull, and it will hold a gear and loose speed for way to long on hills then drop 2-3 gears and it tries to spin out in winter. that transmission was my biggest issue with the jeep.maby with more power infront of it like your saying it would be better tho cause it could maintain speed up hills in the higher gear.

It's gonna take me a while but I'm gonna try it an see what happens.. Might work Might not. You are right about that transmission tho !

supposedly you can make it work. but because of choices we made a year and a half ago now i wont be able to use the jeeps dash. im currently working on adapting the chevy cluster into the jeep and making a 3d printed bessle

You can make everything work like factory with very little work, just make sure that you don’t cut any of the stock harness, mainly just have to run power to the oem jeep fuse box in the engine bay and it will work as intended

I'm thinking of using cavity wax. But need to figure out if I should leave the ecoat on or strip it and paint furst

sorry i missed that in the edit. ill see if i can adjust it and re-upload.

About the only thing I can think of is a seat with a thin back that's pushed backwards

Hey yes it's a 6 speed. The synchro for second gear can be inspected without pulling the shaft out of the base housing mine was thankfully serviceable so I didn't have to pursue that. My failure was actually the 3/4 gear shift fork. It was worn from previous owners resting their hand on the shifter so it wasn't engaging 4th gear fully hense 4th was popping out. Cheep and easy fix relativly

damn right

Hahahahaha yea but hard to do after the fact I do have some regrets there. Thanks for watching

Music makes it too hard to watch..

I had a very weak spark. So I figured the CDI module had to be working still. I also had no power to other circuits for guages and lights so I knew that leg of the stator had to be gone so I started with the part that was already showing issues. I forget if I replaced the coil as well now

Thanks for watching! If you have specific questions let me know and I'll do my best to answer em