Video

@@Nizzwell My 1963 inline 6 cylinder is very reliable. I drive hundreds of miles on trips without issues.

@@Rick-qf5de I think the 230 head is the same as a 250 head (non-integrated head). Sometimes folks use a 194ci head for higher compression. Not sure if it increases MPG.

@@LarryPrimera They make a warming plate that bolts to the bottom of the intake where the exhaust manifold used to bolt. The warming plate has holes that allow engine coolant to flow through the plate like a radiator. That warms the intake. www.12bolt.com/store/p155/Offenhauser_Heat_Plate_Chevy_194-230-250-292.html

@@Lugnutz65 thank you very much. I am using an old stlye header single not dual can i still use that plate. And if so is there a way i can see a picture or diagram on how to and where exactly i connect the two lines on bottom of plate. I appreciate your advice and thank once again.

@@LarryPrimera Contact the guy on 12bolt.com. He can explain and answer your questions. I’ve never done one.

@@Lugnutz65 i sure will thank you very much for helping me out, deeply appreciate it. God bless.

@@LarryPrimera What Chevy is the engine going in? I have a 1963 230 that runs really well. All stock.

@@juliancapucetti8190 I used these because I have the 2” size. 2" 45 Degree 16ga Aluminized... www.amazon.com/dp/B07T15QYMK?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

@@juliancapucetti8190 Yes, straight down cast iron manifolds from 1965-67 era. czcams.com/video/VZvKYQmGzrY/video.htmlsi=-TwP5qItyqwQMhCl

@@juliancapucetti8190 You can see the ram horn manifolds in this video I made. czcams.com/video/VZvKYQmGzrY/video.htmlsi=-TwP5qItyqwQMhCl

@Lugnutz65 very nice thank you for the reply...do u know what downpipe you used for these manifolds in the video? I have the same ramhorns and need the correct downpipes

@@juliancapucetti8190 Aftermarket ram horns (like Dorman) are sometimes a different diameter. Corvette ram horns might be different too. I joined a 60° bend pipe I bought on eBay. I’ll try to find it.

@Lugnutz65 thanks for all the useful information, I really appreciate it brother. I got a hooker true dual exhaust kit for my 63 c20 it has the ramhorn straight dump but the kit is made for angled back ramhorn, I'm a welder so I'll make some modifications to it but it would be easier to just get the correct downpipe lol just hard to find the correct size , I believe its a 2 1/2 and eventually goes to the kit size 2 1/4 pipe

@@user-lf6lm8gx8d Not a stupid question at all. The Jeep shaft solves 2 major issues. 1. The original S10 T5 14 spline input shaft is too long and splines are not cut long enough along the shaft to use with a traditional SBC bell. Jeep shaft solves that. 2. The S10 T5 input shaft has 14 splines but the S10 clutch disc has a smaller surface area than what is desired for a SBC. You can buy a NEW 14 spline clutch disc with a larger diameter (Astro van or another special size sold by Summit Racing) but the cost is the same or more than a new 10 spline clutch disc which you might already have. The Jeep shaft swap MIGHT let you re-use the clutch disc you already have, thus saving some money right away.

@@Dechon-wd2sq hard to find these days and most need repairs which can get expensive.

@@Greglehmkuhler sorry, but I don’t have a part number.

@@willboastrum4701 Best I have gotten is 15 MPG highway.

@@Lugnutz65 what transmission and test end were you running?

@@willboastrum4701 I rebuild T5 transmissions, so that’s what I put in my trucks.

@@willboastrum4701 I rebuild T5 transmissions. That’s what I put in my trucks. I like the overdrive because it gets me two or three MPG better.

@@Lugnutz65 how does the t5 like hauling/towing? I know they aren’t known for being strong but I’ve been thinking of swapping in a t5 as well.

@@tried2once I had brakes that would get too tight. I had to carefully adjust the pedal push rod and the intermediate push rod. I think you probably have the same problem. Make sure there is slack in the pedal push rod and a little bit of slack intermediate rod just behind the booster. If it’s not adjusted properly, the master cylinder does not fully return to the home position and the brakes get tighter and tighter. Let me know if that fixes it.

@@Ju5ticeDad My understanding is that a SBC bell will bolt directly to a 4.3 engine. You will have to measure the distance needed for the input shaft. I am not sure if the input shaft will need to be trimmed or not. I am not familiar with the bolt pattern used to bolt a transmission to a 4.3 bell.

@@Lugnutz65 okay thank you

@@blue32nu The video shows the original design bracket and pump from the 1960 through about 1972. The original brackets are hard to find and expensive. Clever people have designed a different design bracket that bolts lower down near where the alternator typically is located. The engine crank turns a double pulley on the power steering pump and a separate belt goes from the PS pump pulley to the run the alternator. It’s a nice design and pretty economical. Best of all, you don’t need to change the crank pulley to a double groove pulley.

@Lugnutz65 thanks for the info. I think when the time comes, I'll take a stab at creating my own set up. I don't like how high up the kits place that alternator. Looks like it also create issues with space

@@RepopsMfg You have my permission to share it.

@@richardwimmer6846 Guessing the FORD tail housing put the shifter in a better spot than the Camaro or S10 tail. Good job.

Saludos! No yo hablo Espanol. Te gusta lindas camionetas? I have 1963, and 1965 Chevy trucks.

I don’t think it’s a solid piece of bone. I think it has a network of bone marrow inside.

The special washer is found on the world class units. If your non world class T5 transmission does not have one, then you don’t need it.

@@Lugnutz65 It suppose to have one just like your video

@@DavidGarrett-ro7bj it only needs a special washer if it is a world-class transmission.

Yes, that is an interesting question. The V6 Camaro used a T5.

Many S10 T5s have been bolted up to a SBC 305, 350, 383 without any problems whatsoever. The T5 must be in good condition and will not take abuse. Drive it like a daily driver and it will do fine.

Some pieces are heavily pitted. Likely exposed to more moisture than others. I’ll make new brackets if originals are too far gone.

@@Lugnutz65 IMO, they don't look too bad, Jay!👌

Hot Rod

This friend had a shop in his area install a 1987 V6 Camaro T5 in his truck. I know he had the driveshaft shortened. That shop installed a crossmember even though the T5 didn’t require it in his application. Perhaps the crossmember is needed to help keep his frame rigid, but he didn’t need it for the T5. His shifter was under the seat because a Camaro T5 shifter is further back than an S10 shifter. We swapped out the Camaro tail housing and shifter rail for S10 T5 parts and now his shifter comes through the floor in front of his seat like it should. His prior transmission (before the T5 was installed) was a factory 1950s 4 speed.

Yeah i was wondering bout that too , shift musta had a serious S bend in it to come out from under the seat certainly wouldna looked period correct

Truthfully the flat top intake is correct for a 1963 Chevy C10 inline 230 engine.

I tell people “That’s why she looks so good!”

I’m learning how to use it. Never owned or used a plasma cutter before. Stay tuned.

@@Lugnutz65 That is a coincidence. That 34 looks cool. Thanks for pointing out your step by step for the T5 but I have spent a lot of time on that site and it has been super helpful. Especially the measuring to shorten the shaft and tube. I'll be sweating that but it will be fine.

You might need an adapter plate to get it bolted to the bell housing.