Video

No Steve. Those 1860 revolvers are muzzle loaders. I was just using a cheap pistol belt I picked up that happened to have cartridge loops. My short barreled 1858 Remington revolver in my shoulder holster is also a muzzle loader but has a fluted cartridge conversion cylinder in it in the video.

Yes I can. But just barely off the gun. My dueling opponent's second could carefully watch my hand and see that it was just barely maybe an inch off the gun. Here's what you have to do to draw without the hand actually on the gun. You'd have to have your trigger finger just below and off the middle bottom of the trigger guard ready to curl over the edge of the trigger guard for the later spin and you'd have to have your middle finger (with ring and pinky finger against and backing up middle finger) just off the front of the trigger guard ready to push against the front of the trigger guard to push revolver out of holster. It would only slow the draw by a nano second. But you have to practice it to have the muscle memory as well as the distance in your mind of where your hand is positioned in relation to your revolver. Your holster can act as a guide for your hand to feel where your hand is in relation to the revolver. You didn't say anything about the hand touching the holster, just the gun. But I could also do it without my hand touching the holster. Just practice the draw hundreds and thousands of times and you'll see what I mean.

Thanks for the kind words Mr Ree. I'm glad you enjoyed it.

BillAkinsProduction yes sir not a problem have a good one.

Thank you Dustin, glad you enjoyed it.

Lol. Thanks Dusty. Glad you enjoy my videos. I do own the Origin 12. It is a raining wall of lead rapid firing it. Extremely fast cyclic rate of semi auto fire. Loads of fun.

Thanks Dustin. I'm glad you enjoyed it.

The stamped metal on the receiver of the semi auto RPK is thicker than the metal on a standard semi auto AK. So that makes the square opening on the rear of the receiver not as large as on a standard semi auto AK. So the upper bar of the Bumpski stock won't ordinarily fit into it since that Bumpski bumpfire stock upper bar is machined for a standard semi auto AK's rear receiver opening. So to adapt the Bumpski bumpfire stock's upper bar to the smaller opening of the semi auto RPK's receiver, he had to measure the opening on the rear of the RPK's receiver, then measure the thickness of the Bumpski's upper bar where it was supposed to go into the receiver, then he milled a very little bit of metal off the sides, top and bottom of the Bumpski upper bar where it went into the receiver of the RPK. Then it went in and fit perfectly.

Using the exact same shorter barrel (thus lighter) revolver you are using in your video, (shorter barrel 1858 Remington) I'm "way quicker" too Jake. But I was using 8 inch barrel 1860 Colt clones in my video. Much more difficult to draw and spin than the shorter barrel 1858 Remington in your video. I have the same fluted cylinder, shorter barrel, 1858 Remington revolver as you, and it is in my shoulder holster in my above video. Although I do not draw nor spin it in my video, you can see a short bit of it in my video where I somersault it into the air and catch it. From your video Jake, it appears you have the basics of my draw, but it appears you are cocking it with the area of your thumb that is behind the last joint rather than the pad/end of your thumb like I do. Try mastering it that way. (Here's a tip on doing that, stick your thumb straight out as you draw so your thumb is already out ready to cock it when the revolver finishes its spin). Also try drawing and cocking from a holster, it is much different, a bit slower due to holster friction/drag, and more difficult than doing it without a holster as you are doing in your video.

Hi Shane. Those aren't actually angled nor butt facing holsters. They are straight hand cheapo holsters,....the cheapest out there....seriously. I bought the left hand and right hand straight hang versions and then wear the left on my right and the right on my left so they BECOME butt forward. And still, they are straight hang. I FORCE them to more of a forward angle by simply pushing them to that angle on my belt. If you want to get the same holsters, I forget the exact name of them or where I ordered them from, but they are the cheapest ones out there on the market. So they won't hurt your wallet. I did that because with all the draw practicing I do, I did not want to scratch and bang up expensive good holsters until I became proficient enough to not scratch up and bang the holsters up teaching myself this reverse spin draw technique. But you would be better served to buy a left and right CROSSDRAW holsters that are already angled for crossdrawing, and use them to start off practicing with. However, their angle will still not be as angled forward as I wear mine and you will have to force angle them a little bit more forward to duplicate the angle of the holsters I'm using in my video. The best bet, and what I would like to eventually do, is to custom make my own holsters and belt rig, with sheet steel between leather to hold them absolutely rigid to my hip. Because I have found that the holsters move around on my belt and complicate both my draw and return to the holster by not being rigidly fixed to the belt. A section of bent sheet steel in the belt and holster where the holster is rigidly attached to the belt would fix that problem. But you will either have to make it yourself or have a holster maker make that, because there aren't any like that on the market since my draw would not be allowed in single action cowboy shooting matches since in my draw the barrel makes an arc as it spins that would be deemed unsafe according to their standards. So no holster maker would mass produce something for cowboy holsters that could not be used in cowboy action shooting matches. Thus the need for self making or a custom holster maker to make it for you. Hope this helped you.

Glad you like them. I appreciate the compliment Thomas. I'd love to produce them one day. Just not enough time for all the projects I'd like to do.

I believe he would need a manufacturers FFL to do that.

+SGTDuckButter, all of them seem to prefer and run pretty good on solid nose round points in 40 grain. Hollowpoints frequently jam in mine so I only use solid nose 40 grains. CCI mini mag solid nose in 40 grain. Is the problem you're having a feeding, extraction, firing pin or trigger problem? Please describe it for me.

Yeah, when I got it I knew to shoot CCI mini-Mags threw it. The problem was it wouldn't feed, and it wouldn't eject. Also the few times it would empty the magazine the bolt action would not stay up so you can see into the chamber. I know these guns are a little complicated and hope someone just took it apart and put it back together wrong. But like I said I made a good deal, they get it to shoot reliable or they keep it. Could be the magazine too but I don't care. I bought it for the action.

You're very welcome SGTDuckButter. I'm gratified to know my video helped you.

SGTDuckButter, it sounds like you have several problems. Offhand I'd say your extractor's spring is weak and causing the extractor to not grab the rim of the cartridge properly and it is slipping off. Also sounds like your feed ramp needs to be polished, and or your magazine lips could be bent, but polishing the feed ramp and doing a micro chamfer of the edge of the chamber so the bullet nose won't hang up there could fix the problem if it isn't the magazine that's at fault.

+Ken Day I haven't done it with loaded revolvers. However; I plan to load some very low powered charges of powder with some wax bullets or even just use no powder and only percussion caps along with foam earplugs as bullets and draw and fire those for demonstration.

+miopera40 Thanks. I'm glad you enjoyed it.

+doggonemess , You're very welcome doggonemess. To minimize feeding issues, I recommend just using solid round nose bullets. In my experience they are less prone to jam on the edge of the breech. Also 40 grain bullets will work the action better than 36 grain ones. I recommend CCI mini mags, 40 grain, round nose bullets. Another thing you can do to aid feeding, is to polish the edge of the breech so it doesn't have a sharp edge to catch the nose of your bullet on. Yes I have seen that issue before on mags sticking in the grip. Usually what works to eliminate that is to file down that little button on the side of the mag that you pull down to load. It sometimes sticks out too much and causes the mag to stick in the mag well.

unionjacked I'll try to do that when I get the time. Which may be a while.

Thanks Green Man. Glad you liked it.

Putting an electric motor on a crank fire, that allows you to hold down the electrical trigger switch so the gun can fire more than one shot per single function of that electrical trigger switch, would make it an illegal post '86 machine gun. Can't do that unless one has a special occupational taxpayer's license (S.O.T.). ATF opinion being an electric motor causes the firearm to discharge more than one shot per single function of the trigger. In that case, the factory trigger would become a sear and the paddle switch for the motor that you mentioned would become the new trigger. By keeping that paddle switch depressed continually to run the motor, that makes the firearm fire more than one shot per single function of the new electrical trigger switch. However, this leaves a grey area that has not yet been addressed nor answered by ATF, and that is, what if someone put an electric motor on it, but the electrical paddle switch would have to be depressed and released separately for each and every shot fired and would not cause the gun to fire more than one shot per electrical trigger function, just like with any other semi-auto trigger. For instance a disabled person wanting an electrical trigger that only fired one shot per single function of the electrical trigger switch. An instance such as that has not been addressed by ATF. Probably ATF would use their "readily convertible" (often used excuse) that the single function per shot fired electrical switch could quickly and easily be converted to a different switch that would fire more than one shot for each depression of the trigger switch. Who wants to be taken on the finance draining journey of being the first test case fighting the ATF on that against a soccer mom jury unfamiliar with the National Firearms Act and with a liberal judge presiding over the case? Of course that would be no different legally than the shooter depressing and releasing a standard trigger for each and every shot fired in semi-auto mode. Who wants to press the point in court with if you lose you get a trip to club fed? It's much easier to create a manual thimble thumb crank that allows one to literally twiddle their thumbs to crankfire, or to create two manual triggers on each spade grip, with transfer bars that allows one to alternate firing by using first their left and then right trigger fingers or thumbs. In that way as well as with twiddling your thumbs with a thumb thimble crank assembly, you spread out the physical effort needed to rapidly fire between either your left and right thumbs or your left and right index trigger fingers. So that the physical stress is less than doing all the firing with just one finger or thumb. No electric motor to get ATF all riled up, and perfectly legal Federally. State law such as in Calif and Minn may vary since those two state disallow any form of rapid fire trigger activators. And what is a "rapid fire" trigger activator? It's whatever a liberal judge in Calif or Minn will say it is.

Since at some point I plan to produce these as a dress up kit stock, the purpose of the double handle is to cater to both right handed people as well as left handed people. Plus in the future I plan to create for it a thimble thumb crank that will allow one to crank fire the gun with both hands on both grips while they literally twiddle their thumbs. That will be called "The twiddler". The gun wasn't moving around a lot on its own, I was moving it since I was firing on two targets (one over the top of the other) because I had 110 cartridges which were too much for just one target. You'd be surprised how accurate it is when firing from the tripod. I can easily keep all my hits on a pie plate sized target at 50 yards. Anyone familiar with full auto guns (even though this isn't....it's close) they know that a rapid fire gun is an area fire gun and not sniper accurate. Guess I'll have to do another video in the future to prove how accurate it can be on the tripod. When I fire it most of the time I fire it in the water cooled configuration and not the air cooled configuration. As a result, that has kept my barrel much cooler than if I fired a lot of rounds with just air cooling the barrel and thus my barrel hasn't overheated and the rifling hasn't degraded so I haven't had to change any barrels out. .

I luv your screen test film Cadillacula. I was the first to comment at your site.

Looks like I was the first one to comment on your film Cadillacula at your site. Luv it, I can see you've been practicing well. Thanks for giving me credit for my draw in your film. Keep practicing and keep up the good work. Maybe one day we will see my draw in a western movie. Josie Wales did a variation, but he just flipped those Walker colts after they were already out of the holsters and he was holding them out in surrender, he didn't draw them like I invented from the holster. So we've yet to see anyone (other than you and I Cadillacula) do this special draw. You have learned well grasshopper Lol.

Hey Cadillacula. Looks like you've been practicing. Looking good! I also like the extra flair of that extra spin you put on my draw in the "Archimedian screw" draw. Oh, and thanks much for giving me credit in your film for my draw. I appreciate it. Makes me feel good to know that my films and text have inspired someone else to learn my draw....and to even add extra spins to it. Keep up the practicing!

You've done well and I can see you've practiced a lot. Keep up the good work. I subscribed to your channel there so I can keep track of your development. I'm flattered that you mentioned my draw in your credits. Thanks!

Can't wait to see more!