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I actually did do them just to take down any gouging. Motor has like 40k on it still running strong.

I sold it and got the red car! But it did cross my mind.

I think I read it shouldn't freeze up until -30 degrees or so temps.

been running for 60k miles now... mate

I'd totally try it honestly. In hindsight I probably would have gone up to 5k grit

They look like it but are 2 different part numbers.

@@robinsontanner1234 do you know if these parts would work on a 2008 wrx

@codywilson504 i know I swapped an 09 wrx motor to an LGT and they worked. So I would assume so.

Millions

I left them at zero. There was a thought of adjustable cam gears but ultimately i wasn't limited by timing.

@@robinsontanner1234 thank you

@@user-nk7yd3cd9c no problem! Anytime!

Less failure points for coolant. Plus you dont really need your throttle body heated unless you are in sub zero temps.

That could be it. maybe a seal has gone bad. Is there any shaft play in the turbo?

@@robinsontanner1234 I changed these last year but it made no difference.. there's no play in the Turbo shaft and it's not noisy when it's turned off as the impeller slows down. Compression and oil pressure are good, can't see any source of a boost leak, new plugs, coil packs, knock sensor, inlet pipe, exhaust and inlet manifold gaskets, maf sensor, tried dump valve, intercooler a d probably a load of other stuff. I was thinking it could be an AVCS pulley, but would that not flash up a fault code?

@crumpetcatcher i wonder if its a faulty boost controller. Can you monitor things on a Cobb or pc?

Lol that is awsome. I think if i used 2 and a pan i could actually do it.

@@robinsontanner1234 we would use thinner stakes and wrap them in foil to cook them. It worked pretty good then after they were cooked we would take them out of the foil and throw them on there for a bit of a sear. We also had a slightly larger area to cook on lol

Funny enough it didnt work very well. 😅

Na. We get all the copper we do this with properly. No stealing here.

the theory also is it keep the throttle plate from freezing to the throttle body as it expands. But most even in artic temps have never seen this happen. It is 4 failure points to eliminate especially when running higher RPMS

Yeah we did that for a bit. But comming up with pounds was taking too long lol

Its a wire stripper.

Sept they have like 50k on them since...

Right!? Everything just turns red when it melts! It has to do with the wavelength of the metal changing when it is heated to be that of red and orange.

No unfortunately 😪

If it gouged too far id not suggest this. This was very light. Caught my fingernail but not deep.

Car has 50k on the motor since then bud.

No sadly. It was a few other things. Lol

Its most likely a pretty cheap part. New parts are always good :)

Thanks man! AVCS pretty much prevents lope unless your tuner knows how to program it in at idle. Much bigger and you are looking at custom head work.

Awsome man! So glad it helped!

If you had an opening/nipple to put a hose on then sure! In my case they were all taken up

@@robinsontanner1234 awesome, thank you!

Yes!

the lifters in these motors have a cap over them. i would send it off for a regrind if the lobe was messed up. since these ride in an oil jacket as long as they are smooth and not gouging out the aluminum journal it sits in they are fine. But I completely understand what you are saying. Many other motor types I defiantly wouldn't suggest it. Motor has 45k on it making some descent power since this video ;D

It can be other things like cam is off a gear, or a clogged avcs screen (only some models had them) cams that are out of tolerance, a faulty cam position sensor can also cause it. If your motor was just built there is a chance some RTV got into the channel along the front cam cap causing issues with oil flow.

You can tune it in or delete avcs. The AVCS adjust your cams so no chop.

@@robinsontanner1234 see i read that somewhere else and told my tuner about it and he has no idea how to make that happen we were both kinda bummed about it lol 😅 obviously keeping the avcs is the right thing to do cause I want driveability but man just want a bit more stop light presence ya know ?

@@Dylan-rf3fw he can retard timing at idle

@@robinsontanner1234 we will have to mess with it once the new engine is installed thanks :) 😀

It should be fine in NJ. I know of people first hand that have deleted it in Alaska with no problems. Its sole purpose is to keep the throttle plate from freezing. The hard coolant line that goes to the heater core has 2 nipples. one line goes to the throttle body and one goes from the throttle body back to the pipe. It should be a black hard line. I just jumped from the first nipple to the return nipple with the piece of hose that is already there and clamp it up!

There is an o ring that can fail on the solenoid.

@@robinsontanner1234 I see mine is leaking but no codes or anything at the moment. it’s all caked up and i noticed a few drops after driving

@@__akuuma your car won't throw a code for an oil leak.

@@robinsontanner1234 that’s what i figured. just browsing through all the videos everyone’s got a code that helped them figure out the issue. just don’t wanna buy a part for no reason if that’s not the case haha

@@robinsontanner1234 quick question: would that be what’s dripped on my header on the driver side? every video i see people get to it from the top but looks like it would be easier to get from the bottom. really unsure if it’s even the right part

Your center isn't lined up and it's hitting Valves. You probably used the arrow on the crank sprocket for TDC and not the line on the crank sprocket

@@robinsontanner1234 so go around again with the crank pulley, I almost blew a gasket, thought I messed up bad! Thank you, going to try right now!

@@fishconsinlange8901 not around again just make sure the line is TDC. Not the arrow.

I see it now! Thanks, I was using a dimple/ dot, I see the line. Thank you,! Tomorrow it goes back together and hoping!

@@fishconsinlange8901 good deal! 👍 let me know if you have any questions!

You have to shave the heads most of the time to get a 280 to fit.

are they the brackets of death that are around the fuel injector area?

@@robinsontanner1234 Yes!! 😠

They can be removed just have to be crafty and find all the bolts. Throw them in the trash lol.

@@robinsontanner1234 I'm working on it right now! Trash. Trash. I bought some swivel heads and a new mini ratchet. I really hope they help me get the job done

@@robinsontanner1234 Thanks for the encouragement.

If you get a 2.5 NA ater pump it will have the tube deleted. It's the same filter used on the Crosstrek.

20K on the motor and they are doing great still

@@robinsontanner1234 cool, thanks

You would have to drain both

Great explanation ¡ One question: Both AVCS sensors are equal ? I mean, the same OEM part ? Or different ? Thanks ¡

@@ChetoCervantes i'm no expert, but I don't recall ordering a left bank and a right bank part. they're interchangebale, but I will not be offended if someone corrects me on that.

@@ecpoirier Thanks ¡