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lol. It’s definitely a little unorthodox, but when using thin stock or multiple thicknesses of lumber or even scrap, it saves a lot of waste. You can skip the step altogether by using 8/4 lumber and not making the initial panel… I will generally resaw lumber and then use the fall off box box bottoms and other small projects. Thanks for the comment… I promise I’m no crazy 😂

Glad you liked it! Can’t wait to get back into the shop soon for some new builds.

This is explained in more detail in the plans, but that step is for people who aren’t started with 8/4 lumber. I created this walkthrough / method because a large percentage of weekend woodworkers only have access to 4/4 or 1” s4s lumber, so they won’t have the option to just resaw thicker lumber down to the thickness required. Personally. I skip the first step and resaw my lumber on the bandsaw and use the fall-off for box bottoms and other small projects. Though, even using 8/4 lumber, it’s still a feasible option if you are looking to reduce waste.

The plans differentiate Wood 1, 2 and 3 to make using 3 species easy. Wood 1 is the main block, wood 2 is the thin strips and wood 3 are the small squares to fill the gaps.

Not sure that I follow.... I didn't use any jigs outside of the glue up. What jig are you referring to?

This info is in the plans linked in the description, but I tend to cut extra to allow for more options when choosing my layout, just in case there are a few abnormalities in any of the blocks - so I tend to cut 26", give or take.

Thanks a lot!

Haha... this doesn't need to be precise, so it's all good! Thanks for watching til the end!

Thank you!

Haha… whose shop is ever free of projects and completely organized?! Not mine!

Actually no, but this was a demonstration for people that don’t use 8/4 lumber. This process can be used with any thickness wood. If you use 8/4, it’s easier to resaw and then plane down to thickness. I explain that in pretty elaborate detail, especially in the plans.

Was just a joke, thanks for the good tips! @@MattMuirhead

It’s been a great saw - unfortunately the motor blew a capacitor and I was unable to get a replacement part in time for a deadline last year, but I was able to pick up a used SawStop for a good deal and will be moving the PM66 to a dedicated dado saw when I get back up and running in my new shop. Can’t wait to have a shop with 2 saws…

@MattMuirhead one went out in mine but I picked one up at a hvac dealer still going strong

Thanks Mary - you can use pretty much any blade to cut brass since it is a non-ferrous metal. Just be sure you are wearing eye protection. I will definitely start uploading videos - my shop is packed up right now as I wait to move and get into a new place…. Keep your eyes open - 2024 should see me back at it! Thanks for the kind words!

@@MattMuirhead Thank you so much for taking the time to answer my question! Good luck with your move and i will be anxoiusly waiting when you start uploading again. Thanks again 🙂

Thanks - I had to go back and look at which tape I used. Haha. It’s just a cheap FastCap. Pretty sure the one you’re referring to is their flat tape which is great for these small projects and great for marking… but it’s only good to lie on flat surfaces. I use all fastcap tapes because they’re inexpensive enough to have one or two in every corner of the shop for when they inevitably hide from me 😂

Dont be a dick

Yeah, this seems to be 50/50 based on feedback. Maybe I'll have to make 2 videos for future projects :)

Haha… damn bourbon making bad decisions for us! Glad you liked the video - hit me up if you have any questions!

Thanks so much for the comment - this was a fun build - I love being able to repurpose material and give it a new life - much better than ending up in a landfill or burnpile. Looking forward to getting back into the shop and making more sawdust once I move into a new place / shop - I'm sure a new house will mean more projects to post. Thanks again!

Glad you enjoyed the video! It’s a fun project and I’m sure your friend will love the board. It’s fun to play around with different species for interesting color combinations.

Thank you for the comment. Since this is a tutorial, I added the lamination for people that don't have access to thicker lumber. Here in the states, it is common for people to buy 1 inch (~25mm) or thinner lumber, and the lamination step would be necessary to create the proper thickness. I buy most of my lumber 2" thick, so when I build these, I skip that step and use solid wood. The lamination step can also help to reduce waste when building larger batches, but if you plan out your cuts, there is not a lot of waste in this project. Good luck and enjoy! Let me know if you have any questions! Grazie per il commento. Poiché questo è un tutorial, ho aggiunto la laminazione per le persone che non hanno accesso a legname più spesso. Qui negli Stati Uniti, è comune per le persone acquistare legname da 1 pollice (~ 25 mm) o più sottile e la fase di laminazione sarebbe necessaria per creare lo spessore corretto. Compro la maggior parte del mio legname spesso 2", quindi quando li costruisco, salto quel passaggio e uso il legno massiccio. La fase di laminazione può anche aiutare a ridurre gli sprechi quando si costruiscono lotti più grandi, ma se si pianificano i tagli, un sacco di sprechi in questo progetto. Buona fortuna e buon divertimento! Fammi sapere se hai qualche domanda!

Few things - the top of the box is two pieces of veneer thickness that are laminated to a plywood substrate. There is no hardwood in the groove. The bottom is less than 1/8” thick. The grooves in the box sides have an extra 3/32 or so on each side to float and there is only a drop of glue in the center. Wood movement will not be an issue across such a short distance. If it were an inch+ thick and spanned some distance, you’re 100% right. Since the wood isn’t pinned - it won’t be a problem, especially since it lives in Northern CA where we don’t have much swings in humidity.

Much appreciated

Thanks Johnny. It was a fun box to make - I will be posting more projects once I get moved into a new shop, hopefully sometime soon! I’ve had the tools packed up for too long!

It’s a little intimidating at first? But as a machinist, working in metric and using the micrometer should e second nature.l, and that’s half the battle with this design. I’m sure you’re be fine - when you’re ready let me know - happy to answer any questions.

@@MattMuirhead Just DMed you from your website.

Thanks! I had to shut down the shop temporarily due to some issues here - have a lot of my shop in storage but I’ll by buying a new place and building a new shop hopefully this summer and plan to make some videos of the process. Thanks for the sub - I hope to be back in the shop sooner than later.

@@MattMuirhead awesome good luck with everything!

@@MattMuirhead I'll still be subbed so can't wait to see it all

Thanks! Was from a spot at Two Medicine lakes on the eastern side of Glacier National Park. Hard to deny that view… my only concern was that a Grizzly bear and her cub were in camp a few hours prior so my head was on a swivel all evening 😂

Haha…. Yeah, I’ve experienced first hand how triggered some people get over using a CNC in a shop 😂😂

Obrigado por assistir! Estou feliz que você gostou!

Thanks - yeah, doing it that way is the only way to ensure adequate pressure during the glue up. It I had cut the edge pieces down beforehand, not only is it more work, if the cut isn’t precise the pressure might not be even. Glad you enjoyed the video - thanks again.

O plano que tenho disponível para compra online é métrico (milímetros) - não uso medidas imperiais (polegadas) em nenhuma das minhas pequenas peças de marcenaria. Espero que esta tradução do inglês seja precisa o suficiente para fazer sentido!

Thanks David - it was a fun project - It’s always enjoyable to use reclaimed materials to make something new. I’m glad you enjoyed it.

Thanks! Glad you enjoyed the video!

Thanks, David! Glad you enjoyed it!

Stay Classy 😉

Outside of the table saw, the planer and jointer are the backbone of a woodworking shop. You can get by without a jointer - if you have a tone of time, patience, endurance and skill you can use a handplane to do the job of a planer. Depending on the projects you are aspiring to make, those are tools I would recommend every woodworker add to their shop.

You can joint with a level and a table saw too if your comfortable with your saw

So sorry to hear about your loss. I spent many years living in working in Chico and logged thousands of miles riding my bike to the old Honey Run bridge and up Honey Run Road into Paradise. Used to love stopping mid-ride for a bagel at the Lovin’ Oven before it shut down years ago. I had to pack up my shop this year in preparation to move into a new place and I keep hitting delays - I will be building again as soon as I get a new place and hope to make more videos - hopefully by next summer. Thanks for stopping by!