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Everything is designed to get wet so long as you don’t force high pressure into the connectors or fuse boxes. Ensuring everything is tight is essential though, and getting too close with the pressure washer can cause water to leak past the seals, so staying back to the point that the water is just mist by the time is reaches the sensitive components helps too.

Thank you! I’m glad you enjoyed the video

The biggest benefit of sanding is heat management. Instead of grinding down the paint with a rotary or DA and generating a bunch of heat, I can cut exactly enough clear coat to get to all these swirls, which this Jeep had plenty of, and then refine with the rotary and DA in following steps. This also saves a tremendous amount of time of having to revisit tight areas or swapping out polishers and pads to make sure each and every swirl mark and scratch was removed. In the end, the results from sanding will always be superior to the results of just using polishers.

These cars will run forever! Way more reliable than what’s being made today.

Rupes rotary, Rupes 21 Bigfoot DA, Rupes mini DA, lake country twisted wool with Meguairs M100, Griot’s Garage with Meguairs M100, Rupes yellow foam pad with HD One, Ceramic Pro topcoat ceramic coating.

I’m happy to hear you enjoyed the video!

Unfortunately not right now. I’m re-establishing myself in a new city, but once I do, videos will be coming. I’ll be uploading shorts from time to time though.

I used to live in Bluffton down by Hilton Head Island, but I recently relocated to Palm Beach, FL. I hope to have a shop again soon so I can crank out more videos.

You can get away with just a polish on light colored Toyotas because the paint is so soft, but if you want to get most of the defects out, you’ll need to compound the paint before polishing. And if you’re doing their white acrylic lacquer single stage paint, you’ll definitely need to compound first, but that’s not a paint type I’d recommend learning to paint correct on.

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A very boring car, but one of the most reliable.

I used a diluted APC on the leather and Carpet Bomber on the suade.

A yellow foam pad and 3D One polish

@@HamptonsTouch Could you link what yellow foam pad you used?

I’ve maintained it for him, but the car has unfortunately gone back and forth to the dealership for a broken hood latch, where it sat outside for several weeks, then an employee of the owner gave it a dry wipe down with a microfiber and roughed the paint all up. So I had to do it a second time.

You can clean under the hood with water so long as you’re careful of how close you’re getting the pressure washer. The pressure will push the moisture past the seals of the electrical connectors if you’re too close, and it’s always best to look over everything to make sure all the connections are secure, and the fuse box is properly latched shut. There are some fuse boxes that have openings on the sides, so it’s best for cover them with a bag while cleaning.

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I’m glad you enjoyed the video!

Whether you start on exterior or interior is just personal preference. There’s no specific order to go in. I’d personally rather get the exterior cleaned so I can get the vehicle pulled inside. If I did the interior first then pulled it outside to wash it, there’s a chance dirt, dust, or pollen can blow into the vehicle while I’m cleaning out the door jambs, and I want to avoid having to re-vacuum and wipe down the interior. That’s just me though.

Thank you! I’m glad you enjoyed it

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I’d love to do your Jeep, but I’m located in SC.

Thank you! I used Chemical Guys wheel woolies and some generic brushes I found on Amazon.

I used Meguairs M100 on a purple twisted wool Lake Country pad for the rotary followed be M100 on a Griot’s Garage microfiber cutting pad for the DA, and finished with 3D One on a Rupes yellow foam pad for the DA.

What does DA mean?

@@massfootage4503 Dual Action polisher

Thank you!

The most important thing about spraying down an engine bay is avoiding directly spraying critical electrical components like the fuse box and PCM. All electrical connections have seals to keep out moisture, so it’s alright to get them wet, but just be careful about the pressure you hit them with. That’s how water can get past the seals. I hold the wand as high as I can to reduce the pressure, as well as using a lower pressure nozzle. Also I don’t use a constant flow of water, I just do quick spurts of water to rinse away the suspended dirt and suds. And congratulations on your new vehicle!

I used HD Speed by 3D on the glass. It has some wax in it you can leave behind for protection, or strip it and coat the glass. I like using it because it won’t leave white residue marks on the rubber trim.

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I’m glad you enjoyed it!

Thank you!

@@HamptonsTouch 💯

Yeah it’s pretty well hidden in the glove box

Knowing the correct procedures and methods helps cut down on work time

I’m glad you enjoyed it! I’ll have more coming in the near future. Be sure to subscribe so you know when they’re released.

@@HamptonsTouch absolutely! Quick question, I think I saw in some previous videos you used a clay mitt? If so, does that ever leave any more marring compared to traditional clay? Just in your experience.

Thank you!

Thank you!

Thanks!

That’s definitely preferable lol

Hell yeah! I’m happy to hear that

I’m glad you enjoyed it! Be sure to check out my other videos and share them with friends and family you think will like them too.

Thank you! The light is a Neiko rechargeable cordless light from Amazon. Works great