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Charles, thanks for the feedback and for watching. I'm still learning to edit these videos and will take your comment into consideration as I learn.

That is great to know. Fortunately, other than a pesky o-ring leak on an aftermarket hose fitting for my 3rd function, things are really working well so far. Your comment reminds me of my impression when shopping for the tractor and how the JD dealership was pretty fancy and salesman dressed like a golfer. Not bad things, but somehow they have to pay for that. Thanks for watching and commenting!

Thanks for commenting. I'm pleased to hear this was helpful for you. Once we figured this out, we have been able to do simpler cleaning roughly annually and haven't needed to remove the pump as often. Knowing what shape it takes and how it is put together makes that simpler cleaning possible. Much of this seems to depend on the types and age of clothes we are drying as each has a different amount of lint and small fibers that are introduced.

Thanks or commenting. Where do you find the third filter on your system? Is it built for removal/cleaning or permanently installed?

Thanks for watching and commenting. The property is really fun to work on and as we get to know it better, we feel pretty luck to be there. Still lot's to do and we hope to chronicle the cabin rebuild as we get to it but plenty of clearing and deferred maintenance first.

Thanks for watching! This was last winter and it looks so different in the summer now. Still upright!

Indeed it is. Thanks for watching. I'll get more familiar with it as I have tons of stumps to clear and I'll do more video of it in future episodes.

Thanks for the in-depth comment and for watching. You are right about the length and I did my best to sort of split the difference between the original top-link and the hydro version. My video on the hydro version goes through my thoughts there and measurement before ordering. The flail I show in this video works great but seems to really need more top link than most of my other implements. For me, the overall height adjustment is best done with the roller and then I feather a bit when mowing with the top link.

@@outbuildinginfo That’s exactly the combination I use to adjust my height, the rear roller and the top link. The skid plates have a tendency to leave drag marks if they touch the ground, so I keep them raised pretty high.

Thanks for commenting. The fan continues to work well and surprisingly, the summer weather is much closer to the dew point each day despite no real rain for weeks so I am actually seeing a bit more condensation than in the depths of winter when it is raining nearly daily.

Thanks for commenting. I'm excited to hear you avoided the repair. These dryers work great but occasionally require this cleaning step. We have found that we do it without removing the pump about every 6 months (for our use pattern) and that tends to keep things working well.

Fred, thanks for your comment and for watching. That is a great idea and now I have something exciting to try next time they are jammed. I've also seen this when my backhoe leaks down over time which puts pressure/vacuum on the fittings. The rag is a great tip as I end up with fluid all over it seems whenever switching.

Thanks for watching and weighing in!

That answer for me was a bit more complicated than the cost of weight. I could have had the tires filled when purchasing the tractor for a couple hundred dollars. That would put my tractor over my trailer/tow vehicle capacity so I would then need to pay for any future transport or have any servicing I can't do myself done on-site in a remote location. My weights cost about $600 but can be removed. This lets me pull the tires, add/remove spacers, and perhaps fix a flat down the road without any special equipment. The weights cost $400 more, but the flexibility was worth it for my circumstance. It is a bit of a "loaded" question, depending on circumstance. Thanks for your comment and for watching.

Thanks for the comment. My couplers are both male ends on this so I can't loop them. I've done that with the backhoe when I remove it but if it leaks down, the cylinders can pressurize my system. In either case, it seems rotating the front loader stick through all axes before decoupling does the trick on my tractor. Still learning this stuff!

Thanks for your comment and question. The original flail mower video I did shows how you can adjust the back roller which sets the height above-ground where the flails spin. That essentially is the cut-height when combined with any adjustments (hydraulic or manual) to the top-link. I hit that rock because I missed it in my walk-through. Once I have an area figured out, I know what to avoid or lift the mower over as I pass with the 3-point lift. These flail hammers aren't super expensive. I just checked my manufacturer's website and they are just under $74 for a pack of 6. You wouldn't want to replace one every day but they will wear over time, can be sharpened, and aren't prohibitive to replace. The design of the mower is for the obstruction (rock, stump, etc) to force the hammer to flip back on the hinge point. I must have just hit this right to break mine as I have hit many others without consequence. Hope this helps.

Mark, thanks for watching and your question. The Yanmar has been really a huge lever for managing our property. I figured it would be helpful but with no experience going in, I have been even more impressed as I gain experience. You may be working with Brim Tractor in Olympia as they are big in the Northwest. That has been nothing but a good experience on my end. The shed was in place when we purchased the property. I do see similar ones advertised for reasonable rates and they essentially bolt together. Ours is just place on the dirt which means plenty of field mice and more moisture than I would like.. but it is still great to have. I put in some super inexpensive LED lights from Vevor and a solar fan (I did a video on that one) that has really helped with condensation in a climate likely very similar to yours. If I was starting from scratch, I would probably consider the effort/cost of a simple concrete pad and then bolt the same structure to it. I think that would really help and work well. I may even lift ours at some point and tuck a pad under it... so many building projects!

Jacob. Thanks for your comment and great idea. These boxes are based on a 2.5" x 2.5" grid. I'm in the process of setting up a simple web server to share this type or things for my channel. Your message inspires me to get that working so I'll do that and post these both as .PDF (works better for me) and .DXF (may work well for others). That will take a few days but I'll get that up and add another comment here as well as note it in the description when done.

Thanks for commenting again. These were fun to put together and I just need to get into the habit of occasionally doing "shop improvement night" where I spend a few hours on this type of thing. It isn't going to happen overnight and I learn as I go but for the things I have focused on like this, it is so much more fun to use after getting set up. I'll check out the sortimo bins. These past two organization videos for the router bits and the drawer bins used $22 of material in total. That is hard to beat. Happy shop organizing!

You can briefly see this around the 18 minute mark of this video. There is a horizontal shaft that goes from the gearbox to the upper belt pulley. On the pulley side of that shaft are two large bolts that hold the shaft to the chassis. These have elongated holes so you loosen those and then there is a third little "jack" bolt below the horizontal shaft that you can use to push the horizontal shaft up which tightens the belt. Once set, you tighten up the two bolts with the oblong holes. Hope this helps.

Thanks for commenting and the kind words. This was a good first try at this. I have some ideas I'll share in future videos on how to better align these modules.

Alex, thanks for watching and commenting. You pose a good question. The outer shell has the blind threaded nut in it. From the inside (reaching up into the shell), I have little speed knobs that bolt through the slot cut in the lower frame of the horse and into that shell nut. This compresses the two against one another. These are the first of this type and I would change/improve them on the next round. That nut is easy to adjust but doesn't hold the sawhorse at a given level as well as I would like. For now, I have little scraps of wood I use from the little tray to the shell. That makes it super solid but the design could be improved. I'll do another round of these soon with the changes I see that could help. I'll also try to do a better job of showing/explaining the adjustability in that future video.

Wow, hadn't thought about painting the layers. That could be really cool. This was a first draft on my first drawer. In doing it, I can see doing even more layers for specifics and painting them could be super cool. MDF takes paint brilliantly so that would work really well. Thanks for commenting and watching. I am next working on some small parts containers to fit grids in the drawers. I'll have a video of that soon.

Thanks for the comment and kind words. The bench was really fun to put together and the whole "dog hole" think is new for me. I learned a bunch with this round which is meant to be mobile. I'll slightly modify future modules based on what I learned and look forward to sharing those in the coming videos.

Thanks for commenting. Like I said, you can do this at a local library, maker space, or school for no cost. The key is having the artwork setup and the proper settings. The material cost is what I was referring to as low cost. My bad if you were misled.

Hey, thanks for the comment and for watching. I did figure out the 3-point adding/removing without removing wheels. My issue was that the pin you slide back-and-forth was not installed when I got it so I needed to remove one wheel to get that pin slid in and set up. Now that it is there, I don't remove the wheel for 3-point setup but instead slide it back and forth as you suggest. These are great machines. I am about 70 hours into the same stuff (tree/brush clearing and general forest maintenance). It is a game changer in terms of what I can get done. Good luck with the pallet forks. I primarily use them for shuffling implements around but they are super handy.

If you mean the door on the "floor" of the chamber, it is a bit tricky. There are two tabs that need to be moved to release a catch on each side and while doing it, you need to lightly pry the door up. Once it is up and out, you will see how it obviously works. Getting it out the first time is challenging.

Ronald, thanks for watching and for commenting. This is pretty common for diesel engines when cold. There is a small amount of fuel that doesn't combust when first cranking the engine and it burns when the engine does crank resulting in that initial smoke. It only happens on a cold start and only for the first couple of seconds. When I was researching tractors before purchasing, this came up on message boards, etc. with some people panicking about this behavior. As I said, it turns out to be common to many diesels. Perhaps different injection systems and types behave differently with different cold-start results. Hope this helps. I tend to let my tractor warm up a few minutes after just moving it outside the shop before tearing off to do work. Restarting after that initial one doesn't smoke at all.

Thanks for the comment. We will certainly get the water tested but want to first make sure it will charge a large tank up on top of the meadow first. I'll likely solicit filter ideas from people in the next part of this well restoration set of videos as I think there are several options for basic filtration beyond sediment, etc. From what I understand, you want to test any time you make changes to the well/water supply infrastructure so it will probably be a few times as we sort all this out.

Thanks Ric. This one was fun to get working.

Kevin, thanks for the comment. I'm still researching the Incra. The idea would be to use a plate (like Dennis) with a wide set of dog holes to really lock the fence adjuster. The fence itself would essentially float/drag on teflon feet along the saw top. I will likely use a second Incra for the router set up roughly the same but with shorter throw for the router and with a different split fence and top-mounted dust collection. Incra has really good options for that router fence. The frame I am also rethinking a bit as I design and will likely be a sparse torsion box. The bench module that incorporates the table saw will likely be pretty odd (perhaps 6 legs) to provide really solid spots for the heavy saw. I'm excited to get this stuff off the screen and build it and look forward to sharing the video along the way.

@@outbuildinginfo look forward to seeing what you come up with👍

Thanks for the comment and kind words. The adjustable wheels would be a nice addition. My floors are smooth and slightly sloped but not so much that this bench rocks. I think the combination of weight and compressible urethane wheels helps in that regard, provided it is relatively smooth. Probably best would be "semi-mobile" feet that are threaded/adjustable in addition to wheels. The wheels get you around, the feed can then be adjusted for level. Again.. not as mobile but certainly more stable. I struggle getting two of these mobile platforms aligned reliably, even on smooth floors. Keeping things in a single bench (perhaps with folding outfeed) would be my preference for mobility.

Thanks for your comment. I'm not sure what you mean as the PTO doesn't (mine at least) make much sound compared to what it is hooked up to. The Yanmar SA425 has an electric clutch activated by the yellow button and mine seems to sort of "soft start" when engaged with an attachment with mass like my chipper/shredder. That takes place over a handful of seconds when engaged. The flail (my other main PTO gadget) has less mass and spins up more quickly. In either case, when these attachments are spinning, they themselves make a racket substantially louder than the rest of the tractor. Hopefully this at least partially answers your question.

Donald, so true. Thanks for watching and commenting. I am now past 60 hours and feel like I have only scratched the surface. We have better weather coming and I look forward to getting more familiar, learning the quirks, and getting better at operation. Safe fracturing to you as well!

Thanks for commenting and I completely agree. Filming this video added another layer (for me) of consideration and it really did shift my thinking as I went. That same is true of the modules I am building with some of the coming videos. I discuss and describe and learn from that process just like the CAD modeling. About the only drawback which isn't a bad thing is that when you are done with the actual build after carefully modeling, you are less impacted with the results because you have already seen them. I'll take it.

@@outbuildinginfo I've been experimenting with filming my work but quickly learned that just setting up GoPros, charging batteries and organizing clips subtracted way too much time from my day. As a result, I am currently installing a UniFi Security Video Recording System with four new 4K cameras mounted in the ceiling of my shop with AI controlled activation. This should theoretically record the vast majority of my activity limiting my camera work to a single detail camera to be moved around through the day.

​@@northeastoutrider2124Sounds pretty cool. I'm enjoying learning about the video work itself in combination with the content whether a tractor or a workshop design. I pick the projects to film but still do others off-camera. Filming as I go changes things and tends to take much longer but seems to also yield better results. It's pretty cool there is this rich set of tools (CAD, filming, etc) that we can mess with.

Thanks for your comment. I don't have a quick hitch so I am not certain whether this one is or not. When I purchased it, it came with both the fixed 3-point mount as well as the hydraulic offset one. I think the issue with quick hitches and some implements is that it can collide with the PTO shaft when the attachment is articulated. I suspect this may be compatible with the hydraulic offset but haven't tried. I suppose one could try it and check for clearances and then fall back to the fixed mount if that wasn't clearing. For me, the tractor is pretty small and it has long lower 3-point arms so I am reluctant to add more leverage with a quick hitch and I also don't switch implements frequently. So many ways to set the stuff up and I suppose it really comes to preference and situation for each of us.

Quick hitch is long dead, my friend. Accept the inevitable. 3 point won.

Once again, thanks for the kind words. I realize there are super popular videos out there where a nearly topless person in overalls shovels dirt. That's pretty obviously not going to work for me so I am hoping those that appreciate the thought process stick around and view these. I know I have learned most of what I know from reading about and viewing the work of others.

Thanks for watching and asking. I used a program named Vectorworks which works well on the MacOS and Windows platforms (I find myself switching often in my work). It is geared heavily towards architecture so when doing walls, floors, windows, etc. it really helps. The problem is that it isn't cheap. I have also used SketchUp which has various pricing and many find it useful. Finally, if you are doing mechanisms and wanting really strong assembly testing, Fusion 360 is also cross-platform and works well. Some of these offer a "hobby" version where you have more limited collaboration options and perhaps a limited size or number of models. That has served me well in the past. I'm about 45-years into using CAD systems so my answers may be a bit slanted. Hope this helps.

Thanks for clarifying where this design originated. I saw roughly this design in several videos but all seemed to refer to another. They work well so far and I will probably wax the runners in this test batch to see if that changes the sliding action. I'll work on some inserts in a coming video to help organize things inside the drawers which will be easily moved between drawers with a standard sizing. I really appreciate the comments and your enthusiasm. Thanks

Thanks for watching and commenting. The wheel weights are directly from Yanmar (through my dealer). They come in both single weight and triple (meaning 2 or 6 weights) along with the hardware. I don't have the information in front of me right now but can add the Yanmar part number to the video description soon (when I have that in hand). The spacers are from Bora wheel spacers and the link for them is in the video description. Hope this helps.

Jared, thanks for watching and commenting. Yes, I got them from Yanmar (through my dealer) and when I track down the part number for those, I'll add it to the description. Hope this helps.

@@outbuildinginfoThanks for the info, I’ve got my 425 being delivered tomorrow and was contemplating liquid rear ballast or wheel weights. Did you eventually end up going with 3 weights for each tire?

@@JaredSarro I purchased 3 for each side (as a set) and have found that for me, using 2 on each side works well. That keeps them still inside the rim so they are nearly flush but not beyond. I just purchased another set of carriage bolts at my hardware store for that stack height and the lengths for each stack are in the description. In my 50hr review video, I briefly go over this when switching to 2 weights. Hope this helps and best of luck with your new tractor!

Thanks for watching and positive comments. I did reach out to Peter Parfitt to share the video where I thank him for the drilling guide and he kindly responded. The jig has been useful and I have some improvements in mind for a future version which I'll share in a video as I get to the permanent modules for this workstation. Fun stuff and nice to share with others.

That is cool. The drive to the warehouse is only about 10 miles for me so shipping wasn't a concern. I'm pleased to hear they were good to work with from afar. Nice folks and I am really pleased with the flail. Hope it works well for you!

Thanks for watching and your kind words. This really helped me to better understand the stability issues and since I published this, the weights/spacer combination seems to work well for me. I'm always focused on staying straight up/down the hill which really seems to help. Good luck with your new tractor if/when you get it! They are super helpful and much more than I expected as a new user.

Another vote! Thanks for weighing in. I'm excited to get to the upper level and start putting together the island. Lot's of small details to resolve and fun stuff. Thanks for watching and commenting.

Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. I'll take your color vote under advisement! I'm leaning towards gray tops just because it will hide use over time better. The verdict is still out on the "accent" color. The jig seems to be working well. I've one more idea I'll be covering in a future video about the one shortcoming I see so far when trying to join modules and preserve the precision the UJK system offers.

Thanks for watching. We bought the forks from our Yanmar dealer. They fit the unique quick attach of the SA series.

That's a great idea. I hadn't thought of doing that. Flipping the whole thing the other way would then stretch the hoses when articulating but your solution doesn't. Thanks!

@@outbuildinginfo Not the whole cylinder, you want the fixed end of the cylinder against the tractor, just the check valve parts, they are designed to be removed and swapped end for end.

I still have the small fuel filter to do (I didn't have clamps for the hoses handy). Oddly that wasn't mentioned in the service manual, but came with the maintenance kit. Others have said the filters are tight (as you and I found) from the factory. Could be the factory paint. We will find out after the next service interval. Thanks for watching and commenting.

@@outbuildinginfo The manual actually describes removing the cowling under the dash to access it.......way too much work that way. The supply line is gravity fed straight from the tank, so make sure you clamp it or plug it on removal........ask me how I know..........

Same here. They were a bit tight but not impossible. I wondered too if the paint impacted that. Otherwise, not too bad.