Video

The 420C will feel lighter, more powerful and more like a bigger heli in the air compared to the 380 (M4). The main issue with getting a 550 is of course you will need the budget to buy all the necessary electronics that you can't use from the 380.

@@flyinfishrcguides1393 yeah that's the biggest thing stopping me, like I would love to build a Raw 500 cause seems perfect size but it's same price to build as a Nimbus 550, Raw 580 and even more expensive then a TB60 which is crazy

Plug in as if you were updating using the USB link. Click on firmware update & then select the version that you want & reload it. Hope that helps.

@@flyinfishrcguides1393 no. thats not possible. everything is grey

Thanks for your comment. Glad you enjoy the reviews.

Have you set the AR value to 35 in the Governor parameter menu on your transmitter?

@@flyinfishrcguides1393 I have it set at 10. Should it be 35? Also, have you noticed the multifunction box doesn't want to connect to either the PC or the ESC with the ESC's wires plugged into the Vbar. I'm running the latest HW 120A with the latest updates including the HW LCD Box with the latest updates paired with the Vbar EVO. I have yet to try unplugging the ESC from the Vbar to see if then allows the LCD box to sync with the PC and/or the ESC.

@@floating1351 Yes, it should be 35 & this will trigger the autorotation bailout. When you want to programme the ESC, do not have the transmitter switched on. Also, it is best to disconnect any telemetry lead in the side of the ESC and plug the multifunction box directly into the ESC.

@@flyinfishrcguides1393 Could it be between 10 and 35? My bailout is working, just figured I had to adjust the duration (such as your 1.5s delay) in the ESC parameters. It doesn't matter whether the Transmitter is fully off or not. I've tried both. What happens, when you plug the LCD box in and add power. It says, connecting to PC or connecting to ESC, you just never see the "please wait"... It'll just sit there forever. I'll try unplugging from the Vbar. Will let you know if this works.

@@floating1351 No, it has to be 35. If you have a fan on the ESC, this is powered from the telemetry lead and the fan plugs into the female connector. If you try plugging the multifunction box into that connector, the box will never connect. Make sure you disconnect the telemetry lead from the ESC totally and plug your box directly into the side of the ESC. Let me know how you get on.

I can confirm that the 420 Competition is a replacement for the 420dd though you will still be able to get parts for the dd version.

Although the Piuma shares some components with the 580, but there are a lot of differences. You can regard it as a true 700 - a great first 'big' heli.

@@flyinfishrcguides1393 so better to directly get it and jump the 580 after learning basics on420/450? Or 580 before that

@@flyinfishrcguides1393 is it rather docile or nasty for a 700? Because everyone tells about the retarded power of a 700 🤩 Good first big Heli?

@@700sizehelisaretoosmall The Piuma is designed to use lighter components - lighter motor, smaller ESC. My preference is for the 12S set up. It will do all manoeuvres and at a 1950 head speed will not disappoint. It can be as responsive as you want to set it. However if you just want pure power, you are not going to match a Raw 700 running a 4530 motor. If you are still learning different orientations and want more flight time, then the Piuma is ideal. If you are going for a super high headspeed (2200+) and are hammering the sticks, then you should consider the Raw 700.

Without battery the model weights 1187grams (that's with an 80A Hobbywing ESC). I'm using an Optipower 2700mAh 6S 50C lipo which with the tray/connector weighs 458g. I'm using a bigger battery as I teach with this model and it gives me a longer flight time.

@@flyinfishrcguides1393 Awesome sir, Thank You!

Glad you found it useful.

You could use 380mm blades on the 420 but it would make the model feel heavier, more agile (faster roll rate) and it won't have the same climb out or forward speed. To be honest, I wouldn't recommend it.

@flyinfishrcguides1393 I'm looking for a smaller heli, my current list of helis to get: -Align tb40 (cause of the size and it's cheap to crash. And I have a tb70.) -Goosky s2 (gonna be a beater, beat the shit out of it. Learn new stuff and challenge myself, improve...etc.) Contemplating the Goblin 420 competition making my list. Never owned a sab, and I'd like to experience the sab goblin experience. Not really a big fan of these "raw" style canopies but I like the look of it topless. Plus if I can run 380mm blades that'd be awesome! I haven't taken a look at the prices for the parts yet. However, I'm interested to see. How do u like the battery tray system? Does it complicate ur charging, cause of the connector? Or do u use bullet connectors. The setup I'll probably go with the 420 Egodrift 3220 900kv Theta servos Hobbywing esc Ikon Spectrum receivers/srlx2 Smc batteries

@@sawyerheslep8493 You'll find SAB helis are very smooth and quiet - very reliable. The new battery connection system makes life easy - very quick to change a battery. Very positive connection and large diameter connectors - it works very well. For charging it is best to make up a charge lead using H1817-S. My set up is as follows: Egodrift 3220 960KV KST servos Hobbywing ESC Vbar Evo Optipower lipos

@@flyinfishrcguides1393 Hello Flying Fish, I am a new pilot and just finished building the same 420c., now I see your video and I think I have the same servos (x12 -508 v8.0 on swasch & x15-755x and a HW 80amp esc, I am still waiting for the motor and am working on the setup. May I ask what voltage your bec is at for the SERV and are those the supplied servo horns? If so, in which hole do you have the ball from the mounting? seen the screw? I want to be sure when the time comes that I have adjusted everything properly.. thanks in advance MVgr Ruud Franken

@@rudolphfranken1446 Hi Ruud. My BEC is set at 8volts. I have used the supplied KST red servo horns which are fitted 2nd hole out from the centre (approx.14mm), both tail and cyclics. If you use the red KST servo horns, make sure you use a 2mm nut on the back of the ball thread. Hope that helps. Let me know if you have any more queries.

I don't believe a release date has been announced yet but hopefully it will be within the next couple of months.

​@@flyinfishrcguides1393 rumor has it not till November. But idk.

The Blade 230S has an electric motor driving a fixed pitch propeller on the tail - this can be extremely noisy in operation. The belt driven tail with collective pitch on the SAB 420 runs at constant speed and therefore runs much quieter than the Blade 230S. Hope that helps.

@@flyinfishrcguides1393 Thankyou for reply. I should have mentioned if 420 is quieter than the "Main Gear" whine on the 230s. (my Blade 180 Infusion DD is super quiet and smooth than the 230s- hence my question about the 420) appreciate your time to answer Dave.

@@bradfordcc3488 Yes, the 420 is quieter because of the direct drive of the motor. :)

@@flyinfishrcguides1393 Thankyou for that confirmation. I just bought a 420 kit. will build it after I can get my head around Inverted Flight, with crashing.

@@bradfordcc3488 Enjoy the 420 - we're sure you won't be disappointed. :)

Thanks for your comment Dave. Glad you found the video useful.

Hi. You are correct - when the governor is active, you can’t relate to throttle curves but you can relate to the power being used from your collective stick position (your pitch curve). So how do we determine which needle (range) we are using? Your high range needle is your main needle; this controls overall fuel adjustment for the engine. This needle is brought into play when you are applying full collective / climb out. When you are flying 3D around the mid-stick to ¾ stick of collective ie. tic tocs, piro flips this will be adjusted with the mid range needle. The low end / idle needle is adjusted to achieve a consistent tick over on the ground. Once the needles have been adjusted to allow the engine to run initially, make sure that your engine is warmed up properly before you fine tune the needle settings. Hope this helps.

Just the one (doesn't matter which one) - the other will automatically glow once the engine is running.

Great video... looking forward to part 2 😃

Thank you for your comments.

Hi. The rest of the series looking at training for the BMFA's Heli 'B' Test is available on our Flyin' Fish Community page (www.flyinfish.co.uk/community). You do however need to be a member to access them (cost is £9.99 a month).

drones are pretty much boring compsred to a pod n boom heli.

well, you can go for scale RC helicopters, if you prefer that. you can add as much detail as you wish. go for turboshaft engine, etc. there is no limit to what you can do. no reason to do 3D heli, if you don't want to do it.

You can contact us via email: dave@flyinfish.co.uk

Hi. No, I must admit I haven't been that lower than 1600 with it.

Hi Alberto. No, it is a 20T motor pinion. The size depends on the KV of the motor you are using. Ideally you want it geared for no more than 2000rpm. Hope that helps.

Hi Jose. No, I'm not using e-governor (I have in the past). I use external governor in the transmitter & select either ELF gov or STO gov in the Hobbywing - these work fantastically and are much less fussy. Using the Hobbywing governor have your end points set to 100% top and bottom and set up with the end points as recommended in the Hobbywing manual. I love Mikado but I personally find the Hobbywing governor much less fussy and it controls the headspeed beautifully. The autorotation bailout is also adjustable on the Hobbywing governor which it isn't on the Mikado. Hope this helps. :)

I'm using the Vbar Neo Vlink fbl controller

They do indeed John. 😅

Would you like to the human test subject.

@@happygilmore2100 yup, find me a full size heli capable and gimme holler, smart ass