Video

@johnreed7029 $71 each!? That's highway robbery. The link in the video description takes you to the parts I used, off Amazon. $25 total for both the intake and the exhaust! I don't have the car anymore, but for as long as I owned the car, we had no troubles with these replacement actuators. With respect to your question, I don't personally remember screens on the end. If you click the link for the parts in the video description (amzn.to/4fuUxwa) and look at the photos and the video, best I can tell there are no screens in the ends/bottoms of either intake or exhaust. Thanks for watching and good luck.

Thanks, and thanks for watching!

@@jasonscharf97tj Thanks, Jason!

I'm glad it helped. Thanks for watching! If you haven't and if you're willing, a thumbs up on the video is always helpful.

@@dennismilton5348 Momma happy is the most important bit! Glad the video helped. Thanks for watching, Dennis.

@@williamoshaughnessy6529 Oh man! Previous Owner did you dirty! Good luck. Thanks for watching.

@@dylweezy117 You got this! Thanks for watching. If it earned it, please consider giving the video a 👍🏻 and/or sub to the channel.

@@theweisbecks Yes, indeed. Thanks for watching.

@@TurkeyByrd You need CarPlay on your vehicle’s radio for it to work. Thanks for watching.

@@logeo1992 Thanks for the feedback and for watching. Great comments, thanks!

Hopefully someone else knows and will comment. I never had to do it on the car and I don't have it anymore. It looks pretty easy for the Chrysler 300, but it doesn't look nearly as accessible for the 200, based on what I can see in the video I made. That said, check out this video for the 300 and see if it helps you in any way. Sorry, Chris. Thanks for watching, though, and good luck! czcams.com/video/7jGLIQB7Kh8/video.htmlsi=EvcrAGQf05A0-Tum

Thanks so much for your support of the channel! I'm really glad the video helped you out and got you up and running/drying without a costly service call.

@@tamela1979 Excellent! Thanks for watching and glad it helped. If you haven’t, consider giving the video a thumbs up to show CZcams that it was helpful. Thanks!

@@trig5010 Well dang it. It’s been a while since I did that job so I went and watched it. Man, that was in the early days! One thing I clearly didn’t do is show taking those top nuts off. Going from memory, I think I got lucky in that the ball joint stems didn’t spin. They were basically rusted in place. If you have thin needle nose pliers or vice grips, try to grab onto the stem underneath the sway bar (push the rubber grease bushing down as best you can). Use the pliers to hold the stem as you try to remove the nut. Only do this if you’re going to replace the link as this will probably ruin the link. You could also try heat on the nut to try to break it free from the rust. Maybe also try a pickle fork to push down on the link to keep upward pressure on the nut and try to unscrew it? Hope those ideas help a little. Sorry for the poor video on that aspect. Thanks for watching.

@@MidnightLadyCrow I think the first thing you need to do is find the wiring diagram for your year, make, and model. For example 2006 Cobalt: www.justanswer.com/chevy/1gqth-need-2006-chevy-cobalt-radio-wire-diagram-one.html Then match the functions to the wire colors coming from your car to the wire colors on your new radio harness. Example using the diagram linked above: Battery power is the red/white wire from the car. Using the diagram with your new radio, identify which color wire is the power wire (normally red). You would then connect those two wires. For the Left Rear Speaker negative you’d use the car’s yellow wire and connect it to the new radio wire with that same function (might not be yellow). Keep doing that until all the wires from the car are connected (some wires from the new radio may not get used). I hope that helps a little. Good luck! And thanks for watching. If you don’t mind, thumbs up the video or subscribe to the channel - it’ll help the channel grow!

@CarbonsDIYGarage Don't know why yt didn't send me the notification for this, but tysm for your help! I appreciate it.

Just subbed ❤ also this might be a silly question but i got the tool to check live wires to help me recognize them easier too. Do i need to unplug the negative still? Or do both - & + need to be plug in for a good ground while checking? Ty again in advanced.​@CarbonsDIYGarage

@@MidnightLadyCrow I have the same problem with YT! It doesn't notify me all the time when people leave comments; I have to go hunt for them sometimes. Glad you saw this, though! I hope you get it worked out.

@@MidnightLadyCrow I'm not exactly sure what you're checking but if you're looking to see if a wire is getting 12volts power from the car, leave both wires connected to the battery. Connect the red (+) wire of your meter to the wire that you're checking and connect the black (-) wire of your meter to a known good vehicle ground (a good metal object connected to the vehicle frame, for example). You should then get a voltage measurement on your meter. I hope that helps!

I don’t have experience with this seller but take a look at this listing. If that’s not what you need, try contacting them and asking. Also just search eBay for “Chevy Cobalt ECM”. Good luck and thanks for watching! www.ebay.com/itm/256205882610?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=Wj-iH4tZT6W&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=_D1cUevjTm-&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

I think it needs to be programmed specifically with your car’s VIN. A Chevy dealer might be able to do it for you if you get the same part number from a junk yard. But that’s why I went with the part that I did off eBay: they programmed it with my VIN before they shipped it. Good luck and thanks for watching!

@@CarbonsDIYGarage do you have a link for the eBay page ?

@@streetbobheaven4068 Try this one. It’ll at least give you a seller to contact. www.ebay.com/itm/194936227704

@@autotrimmers6353 You don’t need to change the housing unless it’s broken or cracked. I chose to change mine since the thermostat was leaking and I wanted to be 100% sure that the leak was purely from the thermostat and not the housing. I didn’t want to change the t-stat alone and still have a leak, since the housing isn’t really that expensive. I hope that helps! Thanks for watching.

@@CarbonsDIYGarage thanks

@@jasonscharf97tj Haha! Thanks? Great that there’s content I can put out there to help others but my goodness, things would be ok if they went a while without crapping out, ya know? There’s plenty more content in the pipeline both in and out side of the garage…

@@user-qu8jk9nr7g Thanks for watching and I’m glad the video was helpful! To be honest, based on the filter design there’s not one side that seems better at catching debris and so I doubt that it really matters which side points up. It’s been a while since I made this video and don’t have the car anymore. I’m pretty sure I turned the fan on and checked the air flow direction off camera before I installed it, but either way I think either direction will be perfectly fine.

@@davntelisha19 Glad it helped. Thanks for watching.

@@onemeangreen Awesome! Glad the video helped. Good luck and thanks for watching!

@@umanahector You won’t regret it! This was a really awesome enhancement for us. Thanks for watching.

Here are some thoughts. I hesitate to say it's advice since the 5.7 hemi is something far from the I-4 and V6s that I've worked on. One general concern I'd have is if something truly snapped/broke off, you might have loose plastic in the system that could get into engine and block coolant flow. That could quickly lead to overheating. If the petcock is like the one in my video, you should be able to completely remove it. That'll drain most of your coolant (be ready for that!) but you'd be able to see what (if anything) of the petcock is broken (or the plastic threads of the radiator). If you're unable to get fluid to drain via the petcock now, you can remove the lower radiator hose and "drain" (in a rush!) the coolant that way. Just be ready for a large amount of coolant all at once. Maybe that'll also draw any plastic bits out and into the bucket. If it were a vehicle I was working on, I'd go after the above things first (and have a new petcock at the ready in the hopes that it's as simple as putting in a new one) before taking it to a shop. A shop will most likely just want you to replace the radiator (which you can probably do yourself) since it's not known if the problem is the petcock or the radiator threads. They might also suggest things way more invasive just in case plastic bits got into the engine. Not sure if that helps or not. I feel obligated to also make sure you read my disclaimer in the video description(s) - I'm just a lowly DIY homegrown garage wrencher. Good luck with your Challenger! Great car!

@@CarbonsDIYGarage Thanks for the info. I've watched a few videos on the somewhat crude extraction, which includes heating up a small straight screwdriver and quickly, but carefully pushing it into the plastic remnants of the valve, and turning just enough to open the valve to hopefully have a normal drain, then carefully removing it all together. I'll have to remove the so-called broken outer adjuster first, so I hope that all goes well. I'm going to the parts store now to order the valve. Thanks again for your quick response!! Barry

I've got the 5.7 hemi in my 08 Ram 1500 and the plug came out , anyway drill out plastic plug and get the rest out w Needle nose pliers . Then find the correct plug and install. Shouldn't take too long Barry. Signed Danny I. 🇨🇱🧨🍺🌮💥

Barry you can just drain from bottom radiator hose too. And leave the plug like it is, and not chance any more expense. That is what I would do. Just another idea. D. C. I.

@@shanecoon859 For as long as we owned it, it was rock solid after doing this. Really happy with the results. Thanks for watching, Shane.

@@jasonscharf97tj Thanks Jason and good luck on this next project. It was such a great feeling to have a fresh front end on this ol’ gal.

Thanks for watching.

If you follow the link to the part that’s in the video description you can confirm that it fits your specific year/make/model. If it doesn’t, contact them. Give them your VIN number and I’m betting they’ll have one that fits your car. Good luck and thanks for watching.

​@CarbonsDIYGarage It says incompatible but the part looks identical

@@andrewgonzalez9244 I would contact the seller and ask them. A lot of parts can use the same outer casing but have different guts inside.

Thanks for the sub and thanks for watching!

I'm glad the video helped and I hope the new valve helps out with the oil burning! If it's any consolation, pretty much from day 1 I got my 2011, I've "lost" about 1 quart (give or take) every 1,000 to 1,500 miles, so about 1 quart every 4 weeks. Not nearly what you're losing but the 3.8 liter engines seem to have this problem. Thanks for watching!

The key is that you have to enable your phone as a hotspot and then connect the AutoSky to your phone's hotspot. From there, the AutoSky can then reach the internet and you can run Netflix, CZcams, and also access the Google Play Store that's on the Autosky and update the apps already installed (and maybe download new apps? I never tried). I no longer have this at home, I gave it to a buddy that loves it but I'm not able to make a video for you. This video basically shows you what I mention above, though. czcams.com/video/moUNPKlhqA0/video.htmlsi=QNr6F4qBOS9qyBhQ I hope that helps! Thanks for watching.

Mark, check out this video I made on replacing the computer in my TJ. czcams.com/video/ynBw6q95NTA/video.html This is where I got the new one: www.fs1inc.com/engine-computer-programmed-plug-play-1997-jeep-wrangler-4886678-05014152aa-2-5l-ecu-ecm-pcm-oem.html Also check out wranglerfix.com I hope that helps. Good luck and thanks for watching.

Thanks for watching and the well wishes! I'm in hot & humid southeast Texas...

It could be a faulty sensor. It could also be your thermostat. If your thermostat is stuck closed, you won't get cooling from the radiator. Once your car is running and shows at operating temperature, carefully feel both the top and bottom hoses to the radiator. If there's coolant flow, both hoses should be hot. If they're not, you're not flowing hot coolant through the radiator and it's probably a thermostat problem. If both hoses are hot, it could be the sensor. Sensor is pretty cheap (so is thermostat). If you're not certain, start with sensor because you can replace it without draining the fluid. I'm not an expert mechanic, though, so use your own judgement (caveat, caveat). Good luck and I hope the fix is easy! Thanks for watching.

Good luck with the replacements. I’m sure it’ll run a lot happier afterwards. Thanks for watching.

It ended up being a bad replacement carrier bearing in the real diff. Full story here: czcams.com/video/Xx937ZjPQNI/video.html Thanks for watching.

Yeah, you'll have lost a lot of coolant in this process and will need to bleed/burp the system and ensure that it's full. I go over it at 22:40 in the video. Good luck, especially if someone did silicone it on you, and thanks for watching.

Oh gosh! I thought it was bad enough when I had to mess with them in my JK and TJ, but the newer JK sounds even worse! (and the JL/TJ probably even worse!) I'm glad the video helped a little - it sounds like you need to make a video of your own for the 2013+ JKs!

Thanks for watching