Video

It definitely did not work for me. I'm not sure why. I watched your other video on adding a surfacing bit. Got the bit added, no problem. I followed your instructions on this video and it essentially burned the wood in the path it was going, then the router jammed. Not sure if my bit sucks or if I did something wrong. I've got a 2" surface planing bit, feed rate 100, cut depth .05 in, RPM 18,000, stepover 1.0. When I went to add the bit, it wouldn't let me edit the number of flutes or flute length. It just automatically lists them as 2 flutes at .5 inches. My bit has 4 flutes. I'm running Carbite create 7 (build 743 - Was unable to download build 777 or 778)

I love how in-depth this is

You have some really great videos that I've found super helpful. I set depth of cut to material thickness when doing lettering signs. They carve well, but I am finding that I get a ton of "fuzzies" in the letters when cutting through oramask. This is hard to clean up and affects the painting process. Any thoughts on how to prevent this? Finishing pass?

Thank you. It's starting to come together.

LIES!!!!!!! I just tried the Advanced V-carve and there was NO TOOL CHANGE. it just did the whole image using the endmill

I still don't get it?

no idea what he is doing

What size are those stars?

How did you get the advanced vcarve to go through at the end and clean up your pocket lines? Do you have a discord? lmao

Hey man, love the videos. Question for you since I cant find an answer anywhere. Have you ever had issues with the simulation. It will show like some pocketing part of my advanced vcarve, but it wont show the vbit cutout.. It just runs the tool showing nothing.. Any help man would really help! I appreciate you in advance.

Carving the stars is driving me crazy, they turn out anemic. Practicing on .5" mdf, 0.5" 60 deg v bit, choosing stock bottom which is 0.54", cutting depth of 0.1. . . why is this so hard for me to get right?

Is there a waterproof tape available?

I've been wondering what "keyhole toolpath" meant. Now I know. 😁👍

Great tutorial. I really like how straightforward and to the point you are. Keep up the good work

Just bought a shapeoko xxl second hand, your videos in my opinion are some of the best for a beginner. I hope to get a first cut in the next few days.

Plunging straight down is generally a bad idea as there are no true center cutting endmills (center point just spins in place and doesn't remove material so both tool and spindle are stressed). Either Drill a hole or pre-mill a pocket by ramping in (Carbide Create Pro only). The hole doesn't need to be the size of the keyhole tool, just as long as the center of the hole is removed and plunge rate is reasonable. Clearly, you can get away with plunging into wood, but once you work with metal, these bad habits will rear their ugly heads.

I’m just saying if you so proud of Ole Mexico why don’t you go live there? Sick of seeing Mexican Flags in America! Or any other nation! You so proud of other flags go there! Also America whooped Mexico jus sayn

I'm using a makita router, do I choose the carbide compact router on the selection?

Really enjoy your videos and find them educational. You showed how to set up each of the Tool Paths except the Advanced V-Carve, it was just all of a sudden there and is the one that is the most complicated to set up. ???

I noticed you installed a router to your cnc, what if we tried the 60watt spindle the cnc comes with? I figured it be slower but it should still be do able right?

Do you know what machine makes or repairs these tools?

Another awesome video. Thanks Edgar!

Edgar, You are AWESOME! Thanks for sharing!

do you sell this Carbide Create File?

Edgar, I am a complete newbie to CNC. So new that my Shapeoko 5 pro still isn’t quite running. I initially had an issue with a faulty connection. Now that is fixed but they sent the bit zero for an older machine and the connection is wrong. I tried setting zero as described in the videos but when I run a program it doesn’t move to my stock. I’m at a loss. However, your videos are tremendously informative and I am looking forward to being able to put into practice what I have learned from you. GREAT JOB!

Edgar, I am a complete newbie to CNC. So new that my Shapeoko 5 pro still isn’t quite running. I initially had an issue with a faulty connection. Now that is fixed but they sent the bit zero for an older machine and the connection is wrong. I tried setting zero as described in the videos but when I run a program it doesn’t move to my stock. I’m at a loss. However, your videos are tremendously informative and I am looking forward to being able to put into practice what I have learned from you. GREAT JOB!

What’s up bro nice video. When you zero xy and z in advance vcarve what bit do you use to zero, the 1/8 or 30 deg. bit ?? Thanks

not best but cheap, easy to connect and run, and simple use. my linuxcnc have this same.

This entire video simplified the process of both inlays and carbide create!! THANK YOU!!!

The underlying database for tools is in the CSV spreadsheet file format. The tool files can be edited with a spreadsheet application such as in the Libre Office Suite. I attempted to use OSX Numbers on my Mac but Carbide Create crashed after exporting the file back to CSV to save my edits. The CSV file contains a detailed tool profile structure, much more than is available to view or enter within Carbide Create.

I've had this Wen spiral cut jointer and it will give you an incredibly smooth surface. For the money, it's a fantastic deal. If there's a weak area, it's the fence - it's OK, but not as secure for heavier pieces. After having it for 2 years, my only thoughts for all of you considering this jointer is to save up and get the Wen 8 inch jointer. Yes, it's about $160 more. However, you get an 8 inch wide jointer capability along with a longer infeed and outfeed table. Trust me, it'll be be a lot better to invest the extra cash and get a piece of equipment that will make your woodworking projects considerably easier.

maybe a stupid question, but im begginer, and how should i know when to stop the machine and change the bit?

Awesome video & super easy to follow - great job!! Also loved the cutting board inlay and the fact you showed how to achieve this with Carbide Create.

how do I do reverse engineer?

Thanks for the useful TIP...!!!

This tutorial feels unfinished. You got XY but you have not shown how to set up Z height,. I am a newbie to CNC but I feel most of your tutorials are similar, not in depth, very superficial.

Do the speeds and rpm need to be adjusted for hardwood vs softwood for this bit? Just thinking if you use this for your spoil board vs flattening a cutting board/table that may be a hardwood

How do I adjust the number of flutes, flute length, etc?

Do u sell any of your file for flag bottle opener the small one

Just tried torching the pine after I painted it and it completely warped. It's not longer usable. Any tips on how I can stop wasting my time on what I see ?

Where do you get your colored stains from?

nice tip (boa dica)

your video is so out of focuses, you cant see any think

I oramask my wood then make an .02 1/64 bit outline for my stars (everything blue) separating them from my striped (everything red). I then remove the mask for stripes and red stain. Let dry then cover the red and remove the mask over the stars and stain blue. When I cut, I cut everything .075 deep and it comes out clean.

R£AL AM£Rl€ANS 🇺🇸 L0VE A&£ & HlS SHAP£0K0/CARBID£ CREAT£ KN0₩L£DG£!! 🙏

I dont do white stripes on my flags. The burned wood looks just as good. With some nice oil on top it really shines

I can't see the angles for the frame. Could you please specify what they are?

You were using a sealer with a sponge brush, what kind of sealer is that? Also, the polyurethane that you brushed the frame with, was that just a clear poly? I really enjoy your videos but if you could be more specific with the actual sealers and stains that you use, that would help us beginners out tremendously! Thank you for your videos!