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No worries brother. I have some more suspension parts coming but I think it's on a rowboat from China at this point. More to come. I'm still going to do a video on the upgraded display. It works great however it's a BWFUA display. Very accurate and nice, but Billy Wong f$cked up again...But it's do able. Got more stuff coming when the row boat from China shows up with a proper rear shock. Stay tuned and take care of yourself.

Just on Amazon. Let me get the link for you.

They are better than idraulic, they are hydraulic! Cheers brother.

@@chrissinclair8705 im not british, lol

​@@chrissinclair8705did you use the brake wire from the original bike or did you buy the idraulic one too??

@@BrawlContent-ul9ik Yes they are straight bolt on. The cable just acuates the piston. It's fully hydraulic.

Yes it was a bike trail so I keep her down a little. Obviously when I need to open her up, say on a non-bike lane or bike trail then I will. In fact for that trail to be honest I should have gone down to PAS 2 which is around 27km/h. Good observation

Do you know the size in Millimeters the rear shock is on the Jansno X50

@@americanhotdog 165mm got a proper shock coming on the slow boat from China. I hope it doesn't sink.

Odometer or speedometer way out of wack. You can make the speedometer accurate or the odometer accurate but not both. The best I could do was about %10 off. Trust me I tried it all. If it worked I wouldn't have even bothered buying a new one. This display is hyper accurate less than 123 meters off at 38.1 kilometers and that's not the displays fault, this bike has only 1 speed magnet so there is a slight delay when you come to a stop so it still thinks you a rolling slowly for a second or two. Those little seconds add up the mileage a bit. If you were not stopping in a city like me at traffic lights, etc, it's dead on with GPS. Like down to the second with Strava. I just want the clock to work if possible. If it doesn't I'm still keeping it for the accuracy.

@@chrissinclair8705 👍🚴

Wheel size is a 23 not 22.5...mine and many are fine but I guess his was bad or 3rong setting

@@OU812NVME Not with my low profile street tires and a GPS speedometer. Calibrating the stock screen is either or. Either the speedometer is correct and the odometer is way low or the odometer is correct and the speed is way high. It's literally a $13 display, I checked it. Put a GPS speedometer app on your phone and find out yourself. Even with the stock tires it was out of wack at 23 in. 22.8 is where I had it set at with the stock tires and it was only a couple of km/h too fast. Odometer was still printing low though. Try it yourself. P6 is wheel diameter and P18 is the speed calibration ratio in the settings. The new display is DEAD ON with speed and distance it's just it has this annoying clock go tits up issue.

Well we'll see if the vender can get the clock to work. I'm not caring too much as this display when dialed in is very very accurate to GPS. Both speed and distance. So even if the clock is fucked up I'll probably keep it.

do not use it ! phone will fall

No problem brother. What I do now is every week or so, just make sure it's torqued down. Don't tighten it too much, just make sure it's snug and you're good to go. So far so good on the blue loctite, however if it starts backing out I may put only a little of the red on the tip of the bolt just to make sure it doesn't back out too much. You will need to get in there for servicing eventually so I'm not totally recommending going too crazy on the red.

volts x amps = watts. On a fully charged battery it will pull from 54.6 to around the 52 volt mark which is 1144 watts. Now obviously it's going to go down fairly quickly. If you want to calculate for a nominal voltage of 48 volts with voltage sag it would be 1056 watts. It all depends what the voltage sags to times the amps.

@@chrissinclair8705 thanks , im thinking of side by side dual jansno batterys on the same mounting plate (2 plates)!14 Ah and 17Ah ....so 48v 31Ah! .wide mother fu**** and low center of gravity. what do you think and do you know what kind of Dual Battery Balancer jansno use on x70.. might use this one > Higo Double Battery Discharge Converter for E-Bike 750w and 1000W Dual Battery Pack Switch Balancer 24-72VDC (Max Current 40Amp)

Awesome. Thanks for the heads up. Gentlemen take note.

To be fair that is obviously the better option. However with my limited space I had to find something that would be small enough to be taken on the bike. Remember, as I said in the video. This is NOT a replacement for a proper pump. However, if you're stuck at the side of the road, this may get you home. I obviously have an automotive grade pump but I'm trying to give people options in case that is not a viable option. Cheers.

Yep the standard display has a volt meter. Hit the power/m button.

Thinking about adding a bafang BBSHD mid drive kit. As a separate drive train. Trying to eat hills. Think it would be possible? or would it just be redundant with the hub weighing it down?

Yes, looking into it. I'm looking for a battery from other bike companies that will be a direct swap(Ridstar, Engwe, etc.). Either 52v or 48v. I've seen some other bikes with almost the same battery plate. However you can basically put anything on there if you can solder the leads, it's a standard XT60 input on the controller. Also looking for a different controller that will give the bike a little more balls. I'm almost getting this stock bike up to par. Once that's done I'll start posting videos on internal upgrades. I'm in the process of another couple of videos. Stay tuned.

@@chrissinclair8705how fast will you go if you keep the paddle assist on 1 and how do you even change between paddle assist’s ( I’ve never had e fatbike but i will buy this one)

No tires are super easy to change. A 4 inch wide rim means you have lots of space to work with. Remember the drop outs are horizontal like a motorcycle, you may have to remove the rear caliper like the X50, don't know don't have an X70.

Yep there swappable. When one runs out just pop the other one in there.

@@chrissinclair8705 ordering one rignt now !

I'm not sure about sand but a hard packed dirt trail you should be fine. Why the hell they put knobbys on this street bike I'll never know. Anyone who's owned real dirtbikes know this doesn't have the power or the strength to do serious dirt bike riding. Hell the first jump the front forks would probably break off and impale me in the throat.

Well it's the same 5-pin barrel plug, that's not a problem. It's the communications protocol that counts. This one has 7 different protocols so hopefully it mates with the controller. If it works I'll post another video.

​@@chrissinclair8705how long did it take to get the bike delivered

@@AussieBodybuilder I think it was a little less than a week from the Richmond, BC warehouse to Toronto, Ont. So across the continent in about a week is pretty good. $200 CDN for shipping. Probably came by train. Delivery guys were great walked it right into the garage and placed it in the back so I could build it. Very easy build, handlebars, lights and front tire and you're good to go.

@@AussieBodybuilder 10 days to montreal

@@chrissinclair8705 ty keep it coming dude !

Go to Jansno's official store. 17amp hour battery was $350 CDN, no tax, free shipping. Came with an extra charger and battery plate.

@@chrissinclair8705Awesome! Thank you for the info my friend.

Awesome. Remember to watch this controller box close up video. The controller WILL DIE in the rain, unless you close up that controller box. The best best is to put a piece of plastic or something to block the hole from the tire spray and at least tape up the hole in the controller box. It's an easy 10 minute fix. Once it's fixed I've ridden in literally torrential downpours with zero problems.

Hi Chris thanks for your help. I did find a rubber about 2"1/2 go under the sit stop the water going in . Thank's Chris

2 1/2" w x 11" thanks again cheer's

It's the swing arm. As you saw in the video it's a 2 piece axle. Undo the bolt on the crank side but leave the right hand axle bushing in there so you can take out the left side without the bike falling down. Take the left piece of the axle and put your favorite flavor of grease(I use Permatex synthetic gear grease, link in description) on the inside circumference of the left hand bushing and insert it back into it's position in the swing arm so it can be used to hold the swing arm together while you take out the right side bushing. You may need to use a screwdriver or a knife blade to gently work out the right hand bushing as it's usually the tightest as the bolt is there. Take out the right hand side and put grease on the inside of the bushing. Remember not to get grease in either side on the threads. It's just going to make it that much easier to work itself out. Apply blue locktite(not red you will need to re-grease it occasionally) to the bolt as it can and will work itself out which is dangerous on the road. I also put a little triflow with teflon in between the swing arm axle holes and the frame just to be sure. If you want I'll do a video on it. They overtorque that bolt because it's obvious it's a problem as the new axle they sent me has a washer and blue locktite already pre-applied. It's an easy fix though. Also sometimes the kickstand will squeek going over bumps so I put a little of that triflow(great bike lube, chain, studs, anything) on the rivets the kickstand pivots on and that killed that squeek as well. I'll put all of this in the description so you have an idea of what I'm using and pick something up locally or online. The triflow is a drip bottle so don't squeeze it it will flow on it's own by gravity or surface tension if you are applying it to a chain. You don't need much. When it dries it will leave a thin coating of teflon on mated surfaces.

@@chrissinclair8705 thanks a lot. please do a detailed video about it. You got good tires? You know I don’t know how much time you got on your hands but a tire replacement video would be nice. You have a channel so it would be nice to upload so much stuff and grow it because you do have knowledge and I learn a lot from you. Just saying.

@@moiseishimwe5397 Sure I'll see what I can do. I'm not sure I want to take the tires totally off and put them on again but I can make a video showing what to look out for. The front is easy, two bolts and it's off. The rear has horizontal drop outs like a motorcycle so the rear wheel slides off the back. Maybe after work this week I'll at least do the axle video, it's pretty easy.

@@chrissinclair8705 thanks a lot. I’d like to see your channel get bigger. I will be waiting.

They are meachows. I'll put a link in the description.

It picks up 1.5 to 2km/h depending on the situation. You see the most when there is adverse conditions. Like I go to work everyday a certain route. I notice that I'm climbing hills faster, accelerating faster, less speed drop in heavy head winds, etc. Top is about the same which is due to max rpm of the motor its probably 1 km/h faster. It also keeps speed faster as the battery goes down, because the power is reducing slightly but it doesn't have to fight the tires to keep a higher speed. I noticed I picked up another 5km per charge on a 17amp ride hard range test 42.5km vs 37.5km with the knobbies, so obviously it's using slightly less power keeping higher speed with the lower rolling resistance. My next set I may order those Innova street slicks but I'll order from a different Chinese seller and take the chance. Definitely not ordering them from the one who folded them up like a spaghetti. I just needed to get off those knobbies fast, so I got the Big Boats. Very happy with them so far. Edit: Did sort of a range test today, mixed riding with lots of high speed PAS5 in there in heavy winds got 44.78km on Strava with the 17amp battery before bumping up against low voltage cutoff under load.

@@chrissinclair8705 Thank you very much for your detailed answer.

@@bogdanproko2612 No worries

It's true. Lol.

The rear swingarm does have bosses to put a full sized fender on there, should be pretty easy. That's a waterproof toolbag.

Same thing happened to me last week and I swapped it out with a freinds lcd display and the bike worked. I've ordered a new display on Amazon for $20 but it aint coming till the end of the month. Bummer. I think if you don't turn off the display first b4 the key then it kills the display. That's my theory!

Well this bike has a 25km/h limiter. It's just two wires that plug together on the controller. Of course when you unplug them.....🙂

@@chrissinclair8705 Oh I see, I wonder if something similar is going on with my upcoming bike, will have to look into it 🙂

Yeah I asked them and they said they would have to bend it or it would cost crazy amounts of money so I went with the big boats.

Toronto

Good on ya Brother.

Amazon, they are Meachow's or something I'll post a link next video. They work great because they are offset so you can still have all the stuff on the bars in the right place.