Video

I love looking up a "how to" video and I get exactly what I need. Thanks

Report immediately. Poor snake

I've always wondered what actually holds that in place, my bushing has made its way into the case and floating on the shaft now. I got a new one, but I'm worried it'll slide back in

rip snake 😔

How much did it cost

Good work. Appreciate it. Have to do this on my 01 also.

What body is on the everest 10 been looking for a similar one

Great job on video ! Have a 1999 3500hd 7.4 I have to replace fuel pressure regulator. Very detailed.

How much did it cost?

I have a 2000 7.4L 427 that is doing some weird stuff. Its in a RV (Fleetwood Southwind) I have access from the back side so this should be easier for me. Idles fine, decent pressure on the fuel (50psi +) As soon as I put load on this thing, it won't give me more than about 2000 rpm and boggs out. I am interested in how you tested your fuel pressure regulator and what the symptoms were before you changed it out. Thanks for making this video!

Hey man, any updates on how long it lasted? Gonna do this tomorrow as I'm trying to put off playing for a rebuilt case lol.

Would the d9r final drives and tracks work on this dozer, the one from rc4wd.

why are you allowed to show this on YT

Who is the Ukrainians and who are the Russians?

Who need and engine lift when you have a HOSS.

Video Seems on Point on what Might be Happening on my 93 J.G.C.

What size of Allen did you use? And thanks for the info.

Thanks

Good video

needed that purple rain purple rain

So what would be the bushing for a 2001 GMC 1500 Sirrra 4x4 pivkup with the 4.8 engine?

Thanks for making this video I also thought of taking a 2 by 6 board and drilling a hole big enough for the spline to sit through so you can drive it on

You briefly showed a box of assorted screws . Where did you get it from. Thank You. Video is very helpful

My favorite part was the dog at the end!!😂😂

The E.G.R. tube nut is a 1 3/8”

"Promo SM" 🤪

So cool

Anything i learned doin that... Cover your left shoulder and left peck. They get weldburnt the worst. That is if ur doin that for a while

Anything i learned doin that... Cover your left shoulder and left peck. They get weldburnt the worst. That is if ur doin that for a while

Finally a simple nice video. I can get down with the shirtless fat man welding

Someone needs a Coors

That good boy is pretty hansam

That good boy is pretty hansam

Hank

Do not do the one chip challenge

You want some milk ? Yeah probably

I've did the one chip challenge and yeas best alternative is to throw it up bc it destroys you're stomach.

I know that guy.

Is that a toy or is it real? I can’t tell.

Damn Brady could u go any slower????

Thx for the shout about. Awesome XJ . Tell your cohost to speak up.

Good boy he is. So cute

Someone out here slinging some crack

Those poor danas

Let er rip!

RC military transpoter👍👍👍

Well, another problem, distributor cap shorting inside from center terminal to another that is close by. Actually burnt a hole in the cap plastic. What a shit design cap, normal caps are much better. And as usual intake has to come off unless you want to torture yourself. Do not use an aftermarket rotor and cap, they don't last guaranteed. While intake is off, replace the fuel regulator and intake vacuum sensor up front by the radiator hose on top of engine, easy to get to with intake off. And also replace the ignition module that is mounted to the coil bracket, again, easy to get to with intake off. These parts are not too expensive so do it. If you feel like it, replace the distributor metal rotor sensor in bottom of distributor. I did not see any codes for this shorting dis. cap. It didn't want to accelerate and acted like it was starving for fuel, which was strange, and then it would not start with huge backfires actually stopping the cranking of the engine. Also, pull your crank sensor out and check to see if it has been contacting the sensor rotor inside the timing cover. If so, slide a high-quality rubber Oring over it to hold it back away from the rotor a bit. Works perfect and also helps stop oil leaking. Even if it has not been touching the rotor, I recommend adding this Oring, a little more space between the rotor and sensor will not hurt performance. I used an air conditioner line Oring used on the truck that has the same approximant diameter as sensor. I hear they sell a spacer kit for these sensors, but an Oring works fine and fast. My first crank sensor was touching the rotor and leaking oil around the sensor when rotor hit it and moved it while running but it still didn't fail which was shocking. I also don't take the coil off the intake when removing the intake but do unplug the wiring. Intake comes out and goes right back in with coil mounted to it. My 1999 K2500 454/7.4L 4x4 Suburban LT lights the tires up through first and second gear, what a fantastic machine. This is a heavy truck to do that shit. The only change I made was building a custom dual exhaust out of 3-inch thick wall steel pipe exiting in front of the rear tires and no CATS but I do use the front two oxygen sensors and not the two rear ones. I retired in Mexico so no CATS, no problems. I used two turbo mufflers, one for each pipe.

Thank you that was the exact video I’ve been looking for. Got to do the same thing on my Baja.

I'm sitting in my garage staring at my new 23 klr thinking of questions. Great video...

What size hub socket was that?