What do you know about the 60C max temperature limitation? Do you know if that's a limitation on the piezo cell itself, or on the associated electronics? Do you know if that specified maximum must be observed *only* at the time of probing, or must print temperatures never exceed 60C?
It's funny you wanted to name the one cat Tango. My mom's gray tabby's shelter name was Tango and her sibling that someone else took was Cash. My mom didn't like the name Tango so she tried different names and the first name she responded to was Katy. I still miss my orange tabby Sam. She was awesome and so cuddly. Had her over 15 years.
I'll look into it. I think if I just specify my local language it'll allow translations? I did check and I don't have a language specified at all right now. Thanks for the suggestion!
There are a couple models of this toolboard now. The one I covered in stream has the super tiny JST connectors but I get the designations mixed up. The later boards have JST-PH which are much more easily crimpable by hand.
Orca can do the overhangs properly. The option is turned off in Orca by default, and enabled and cannot be disabled for PrusaSlicer. "Slow down for Curled Perimeters" in the Speed section Check the box, instant great overhangs for these sorts of spots. Tested earlier today
@@SteveBuilds On an other youtube comment section the guy who ported the feature to orca said that they had lengthy debate about the settings. But the only reason he gave it for it being off, was that the bridge walls will be printed with the slow overhang speed instead of bridge speed if it was on by default. He also said that in 2.2 there should be a better more targeted algorithm .
Also where can i source the snazzy din mounts for the misc components breakout board for nighthawk,leviathan,and the new style din rail mounts .Thank you sir in advance
You can find those probably from a combination of the LDO documentation site ldomotion.com/p/home and the Voron parts github github.com/VoronDesign/Voron-Parts
Good day to you Steve i just purchased the full Voron 2.4R2 Version d kit from Hector at Fabreeko and I'm wondering on the cable mod you did for the Galileo orbiter 2 do you have an stl for that .
Sorry about the "are we pushin plastic?" question Steve. I know it must have felt like salt on the wound but I was really late to the stream and I had no idea you'd been struggling for hours trying to get UART working. I often get sucked up in my design projects and I completely forget what time it is.
Hard to tell, I've gone through a few silvers that seem mostly interchangeable as long as you don't set them right next to each other. Latest stuff I think is Polymaker Silver ABS.
Can you give a timestamp link to what you're talking about? I skimmed through the video and didn't see any electronics bay shots in this one. If you're talking about the TAP module then it'll be a 5v/24v tolerant one.
@@SteveBuildsall is good your how to videos inspired me to build a Voron with the Galileo 2 and titanium backers from Fabreeko, Hector has been amazing during the process.
And is the upgrade still worth it? I own a Mk3s+ with BMG extruder combined with a raspberry pi with octoprint and thinking of a MK4 upgrade. Is it really better?
I really like the UI changes. And adding input shaper is a huge performane increase. With that, it's up to you. If your printer is creating good quality and print time isn't an issue then it might be less worth it.
Unfortunately, it was too late for me to watch live, but I'm really enjoying this livestream series with all these additional items that I didn't know existed.
@@SteveBuilds Eh, its all plastic & metal so its not likely to burn down, and if its enclosed correctly with a webcam for monitoring & proper ventilation, it should be safe... That's how i've got my current laser setup at least
a simple push to toggle switch on each bay and one on the tool holder, would do it and be cheaper, if tool holder == 1 tool pressent, loop through the bays to find one or ones that're missing, if tool holder == 0 loop through bays to make sure they're there, that way if ones missing it can notify the user of missing tool head or tool replacement failure
Not sure I'd yet trust a camera to detect it reliably. As @MrTrilbe suggested some sort of switch setup would be most reliable. Wouldn't really need to know which specific tool is loaded, just that a tool is loaded. Switches in series would accomplish that, just figuring out where and how to mount them would be the challenge.
@@SteveBuilds for RC planes etc, the Cameras have a little "OSD camera controller" that plugs into the camera and uses 1 pin, but has a 'joybutton' with 5 positions. It uses different value resistors to determine which direction the joybutton is being pressed. Maybe each switch can be paired with a different value resistor, and the microcontroller can determine which is missing based on the voltage level
@@TheHillsHaveFPV now i'm thinking custom keyboard set up with QMK, and Klipper setup for custom macros, one of the 3rd party companies is already releasing a macropad, that's most likely just a microcontroller running QMK anyway, just make a custom one, heck add physical home and bed level keys to the printer, needs to be the giant Cherry switches though, no need to remote in to home or level the printer.
I'm curious how difficult this upgrade is compared to the mmu2s to mmu3 upgrade? I realize there's far more electronics involved in this; that said, I had never printed petg before the mmu3 upgrade, so that was the biggest learning curve for me there. It seems like it's worth the $250 upgrade, as I'm absolutely not planning to buy an mk4.
I do not have enough multi tool/material experience yet to answer that. I've had little issues that have prevented me from regularly using the IDEX machine with any regularity. In general I would prefer an IDEX/Toolchanger solutio over a filament swapper though. But I don't have experience yet with the latest round of filament swappers so that might change. Will be building an MMU3 pretty soon.
@@SteveBuilds Swwet! Right.. isn't that the case? So much coming out but little real world testing it seems, to no one's fault. Will be watching as always!
Yeah, this is the only way I can do extra streams. I will be moving back to primarily Sunday morning streams though with the occasional weekday stream as needed.
I try not to put things out on github before I've finished confirming they work ok. I did put these on my discord though in the files and things channel if you're on there.
Would you be willing to test the probe on printhead setup that doesnt use the voron heatsink?
Although they make a PZ setup with just a disc intended to be adapted to other applications, I do not have one.
Is the stl available for the Vitalii mount you used?
I really don't like how fiddly it is to mount. I'm working on something different now. Will post on my discord when done.
What do you know about the 60C max temperature limitation? Do you know if that's a limitation on the piezo cell itself, or on the associated electronics? Do you know if that specified maximum must be observed *only* at the time of probing, or must print temperatures never exceed 60C?
They've updated the guidelines to 75C.
Steve, can you give a link to the Amazon kit with the connector?
This is the kit I ordered a.co/d/48sfatM
Had to catch this on the VOD, sorry I missed the live. Super interested
The kitties made it smoke real bad :( you sure did pop it and let that smoke out, mr photonicinduction ;)
Such a bad mistake. I should have known better.
Wait!....there's no mk3.5 sticker for the upgrade?!?!?
Pretty sure there were 3.5 stickers in the kit, I just never installed them.
The kitty cam is back!
Great build, great print! I must have a Steve Builds printed chip for the MakerChip table at 3DPrintopia!
yes, for sure!
I also had a problem with a deleted printer.cfg. I think it's a KlipperScrean error when you go to save_config there.
Good to know, will keep an eye on that.
I like the spool holder.. Where can I find one for big rolls?
Pretty sure this one supports big rolls.
@@SteveBuilds Kewl, can you suggest where the files can be found please?
I don't think Pooch has released them yet. I'd keep an eye on his Printables profile. www.printables.com/@Repkord
AWD is as stupid as calling aluminium machined (milled and turned) parts "CNC parts". QuadXY and machined parts for the win!
Feels complete to have kitties in the channel again.
It's funny you wanted to name the one cat Tango. My mom's gray tabby's shelter name was Tango and her sibling that someone else took was Cash. My mom didn't like the name Tango so she tried different names and the first name she responded to was Katy. I still miss my orange tabby Sam. She was awesome and so cuddly. Had her over 15 years.
OMG they're sooooo CUTE!!!!
So nice to see the kittens.
Hi Steve!
Steve Builds, You're so talented! I had to hit the like button!
That final maker chip looks so good!!!
Sorry I missed the stream had to hit the range this week so :)
You’re so pathetically long and boring
Why do you beg for likes???? Not everybody has to like you-- you’re dry and boring as hell
at 1hour 50minutes and 30 seconds of your video what are those connectors and what tool do you use for crimping them i need those @stevebuilds
Answered in discord but the connectors in question are ferrules and I use the iCrimp crimper for them.
@SteveBuilds thank you I did receive the link they are in the cart!!
Hi Steve, can you activate the translator so I can follow you from Brazil, I would be grateful.
I'll look into it. I think if I just specify my local language it'll allow translations? I did check and I don't have a language specified at all right now. Thanks for the suggestion!
@stevebuilds Steve the really small connectors for the Canbus are they JST ZH?
There are a couple models of this toolboard now. The one I covered in stream has the super tiny JST connectors but I get the designations mixed up. The later boards have JST-PH which are much more easily crimpable by hand.
Orca can do the overhangs properly. The option is turned off in Orca by default, and enabled and cannot be disabled for PrusaSlicer. "Slow down for Curled Perimeters" in the Speed section Check the box, instant great overhangs for these sorts of spots. Tested earlier today
What benefit would there be to not have that set on as default then? Wouldn't the majority of prints turn out better with it on?
@@SteveBuilds On an other youtube comment section the guy who ported the feature to orca said that they had lengthy debate about the settings. But the only reason he gave it for it being off, was that the bridge walls will be printed with the slow overhang speed instead of bridge speed if it was on by default. He also said that in 2.2 there should be a better more targeted algorithm .
Also where can i source the snazzy din mounts for the misc components breakout board for nighthawk,leviathan,and the new style din rail mounts .Thank you sir in advance
You can find those probably from a combination of the LDO documentation site ldomotion.com/p/home and the Voron parts github github.com/VoronDesign/Voron-Parts
Good day to you Steve i just purchased the full Voron 2.4R2 Version d kit from Hector at Fabreeko and I'm wondering on the cable mod you did for the Galileo orbiter 2 do you have an stl for that .
Replied in discord.
@@SteveBuilds I'm not sure where
thank you
I'm all handled now i had 2 accounts going on Discord one was very old i only used it a few times years ago for FPV.thank you again Steve!!
who was the winner of the filament i had to give some quality family time for a few
Are you commenting on the video you meant to? This was 2.5 years ago, I don't think I was giving away anything at that point :)
Sorry about the "are we pushin plastic?" question Steve. I know it must have felt like salt on the wound but I was really late to the stream and I had no idea you'd been struggling for hours trying to get UART working. I often get sucked up in my design projects and I completely forget what time it is.
Oh! No worries, if it seemed like that bothered me it wasn't directed at you at all!
Steve what color silver abs and brand are you using on this build. i just joined CharlieS Angels crew this morning!!
also which module are you usingb the 5volt or 24 volt
Hard to tell, I've gone through a few silvers that seem mostly interchangeable as long as you don't set them right next to each other. Latest stuff I think is Polymaker Silver ABS.
Can you give a timestamp link to what you're talking about? I skimmed through the video and didn't see any electronics bay shots in this one. If you're talking about the TAP module then it'll be a 5v/24v tolerant one.
@@SteveBuildsall is good your how to videos inspired me to build a Voron with the Galileo 2 and titanium backers from Fabreeko, Hector has been amazing during the process.
@@SteveBuilds yes sir that's what I was talking about so would your day the tap is a superior choice over Klicky
And is the upgrade still worth it? I own a Mk3s+ with BMG extruder combined with a raspberry pi with octoprint and thinking of a MK4 upgrade. Is it really better?
I really like the UI changes. And adding input shaper is a huge performane increase. With that, it's up to you. If your printer is creating good quality and print time isn't an issue then it might be less worth it.
Unfortunately, it was too late for me to watch live, but I'm really enjoying this livestream series with all these additional items that I didn't know existed.
Thanks :). Last night's stream was frustrating, but we got it in the end. Weird Pi issues solved with a re-image did it :shrug:
This is excellent! What size of screw did you use?
Thanks! M3x6mm button head
I don't know if it was mentioned but you should add a few drops of iodine to the loop to prevent growth.
The realm of water cooling best practices is littered with mines. Many suggestions were given, not sure exactly what best practice is at this point.
could one of the toolheads be a laser?
I do not recommend using any printer with a laser module. Too many concerns with laser safety.
@@SteveBuilds Eh, its all plastic & metal so its not likely to burn down, and if its enclosed correctly with a webcam for monitoring & proper ventilation, it should be safe... That's how i've got my current laser setup at least
I still don't recommend it in general. The risk is too great for most people.
could a camera be used to detect what tool is loaded? maybe some QR codes on each toolhead and a camera to detect which is missing
a simple push to toggle switch on each bay and one on the tool holder, would do it and be cheaper, if tool holder == 1 tool pressent, loop through the bays to find one or ones that're missing, if tool holder == 0 loop through bays to make sure they're there, that way if ones missing it can notify the user of missing tool head or tool replacement failure
Not sure I'd yet trust a camera to detect it reliably. As @MrTrilbe suggested some sort of switch setup would be most reliable. Wouldn't really need to know which specific tool is loaded, just that a tool is loaded. Switches in series would accomplish that, just figuring out where and how to mount them would be the challenge.
@@SteveBuilds for RC planes etc, the Cameras have a little "OSD camera controller" that plugs into the camera and uses 1 pin, but has a 'joybutton' with 5 positions. It uses different value resistors to determine which direction the joybutton is being pressed. Maybe each switch can be paired with a different value resistor, and the microcontroller can determine which is missing based on the voltage level
I'd be curious if current controllers/firmware would support this idea.
@@TheHillsHaveFPV now i'm thinking custom keyboard set up with QMK, and Klipper setup for custom macros, one of the 3rd party companies is already releasing a macropad, that's most likely just a microcontroller running QMK anyway, just make a custom one, heck add physical home and bed level keys to the printer, needs to be the giant Cherry switches though, no need to remote in to home or level the printer.
Just wanted to say thank you Steve for making such great content and great videos on 3d printers. I learn so much from your videos. Thank you.
I have done the upgrade right after the release - worth every cent. I am really pleased with it.
I'm curious how difficult this upgrade is compared to the mmu2s to mmu3 upgrade? I realize there's far more electronics involved in this; that said, I had never printed petg before the mmu3 upgrade, so that was the biggest learning curve for me there. It seems like it's worth the $250 upgrade, as I'm absolutely not planning to buy an mk4.
In my opinion, the updates that come with the controller in the areas of usability and performance are probably worth it.
Do you have a preferred multi tool setup out of everything you have built? Voron? Or this? I have to watch this yet, missed it.
I do not have enough multi tool/material experience yet to answer that. I've had little issues that have prevented me from regularly using the IDEX machine with any regularity. In general I would prefer an IDEX/Toolchanger solutio over a filament swapper though. But I don't have experience yet with the latest round of filament swappers so that might change. Will be building an MMU3 pretty soon.
@@SteveBuilds Swwet! Right.. isn't that the case? So much coming out but little real world testing it seems, to no one's fault. Will be watching as always!
🫡I hope to take on such adventures when I grow up, well done.
I bought a voron trident ldo kit for me to build. Is there any extra parts I need to buy, etc. TAP, extruder, ...
My suggestion is to build with what your kit came with first.
Always love watching your videos. Thank you for making them and all the best.
This is such a cool build :D Shame it's in the middle of the night for me
Yeah, this is the only way I can do extra streams. I will be moving back to primarily Sunday morning streams though with the occasional weekday stream as needed.
What medium are you using in water system? Using anything to reduce risk of corrosion.
Fresh distilled water is all.
Yes the second rap looks better
Will you be putting the Orbitool umbilical/pcb support you modified on your printables or GitHub?
I try not to put things out on github before I've finished confirming they work ok. I did put these on my discord though in the files and things channel if you're on there.
@@SteveBuilds sounds great I’ll check it out as I’m following along and adding the xol metrix to my 2.4. Great content as usual, thanks!