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Super! How does it work if you position the rotary wheel directly concentrically on the axis of rotation? Is it then not possible to regulate finely enough? Did you check here: czcams.com/video/qao7Rex1lZU/video.htmlsi=SFODKuFiVdUz-K3O ? I ask myself: Is there really no non-contacting rotary, cylindrical hall effekt sensor with the same eletrical values as the original linear hall effect sensor 49E?

Thank you

Czy na Unimat 3 też tak można regulować?

Might it be a good idea to have the cutting tools at right-angles to the way you are showing for shallow tapers?

Unusual and simple way to produce a compound rest.

Nice looking unit, have you got any more info on it. Are you going to run GRBL on it, or is that bridge yet in the future? Cheers!

Very interesting and educational… 👍👍

excellent

You never showed it on the lathe?

But what about the cross slide?

Gonna be doing some hoggin!

Riser for head and tailstock?

mike, is it a 3d printed riser blocks on the lathe headstock and tailstock? I eventually managed to buy a unimat headstock one for my sl100 used (no 3d printer owned).

What metal is the base made of?

Love the content great stuff ole buddy.

Super nice ole friend

Good luck

Does your locking screw on end stick out past tube's. If does what about making tubes stick out farther so u can machine them all in one pass on Mill laying on there side. Maybe idk. Throwing it at the wall 🧱. See what sticks

I'd bet you could rewire them servo's to take modern end if needed use a CNC program like the proxxons use. If u wanted probably wouldn't cost to much. Idk just throwing stuff at the wall see if it sticks lol

I'm check up at this local pawn shop he has some old DOS computers like Tandy,or old stuff that works out of date computer wise. Probably cheap to. See what I can dig up.

They make maximat but that's good or Lil blue.

I spent a few weeks trying to get an old CNC controller up and running for a large router, where the manufacturer had gone out of business a decade ago. It used proprietary software and firmware all the way down, and the control box hadn't been made for 20 years. I spoke with the manufacturer of the microcontroller and they wanted $2000 for a license for their new software which MIGHT work with the old box, if I had a Windows XP computer in working order. Eventually I had an epiphany, and threw the whole microcontroller assembly away, and replaced it with a $5 Arduino Nano. An afternoon of testing connections and making up a little perf board circuit, and this $15,000 machine was running on free open source everything. The friend I fixed it for, quit his job and is making guitars full time with that machine now. This would be my recommendation, if you're willing to try keeping the CNC aspect. You're right to run away from getting the original controllers working, DOS, etc. That way lies madness, and I think I'd start thinking about a manual conversion too. But rebuilding your own controller for pocket change is SHOCKINGLY easy these days thanks to these open source communities. Arduino, GRBL, and Universal Gcode Sender have saved my butt half a dozen times. Open source options are free, well trodden, and will probably continue working for decades, and even if they're abandoned, it'll just be because someone made something better that's easy to switch to.

What horsepower is it? I can make you a really good deal on a Allen Bradley drive 😊

You have the Closed Loop (CL) MaxNC CNC mill. If you want to try cnc before converting you will need an old Dell desktop PC with Windows XP 100 dollars on ebay. An old printer cord, to connect it and the free demo version of Mach 3 cnc controller software. They have a section in their control software specifically for the MAXNC CL as the closed loop is a quadrature drive. I dont remember if I did a video on the setup for mine or not. I had the open loop (OL) version of the MAXNC and did the MACH 3 control software solution for it. It worked fine but I wanted to more power and precision and the OL control loop was not the best for that so I went with aftermarket stepper drivers and a breakout board. It is a fun little machine for learning cnc and g code and the like. I still have it just need to get it set up afyer the move. Good luck!

Running DOS could be solved by FreeDOS, perhaps; there may be an archive of the software somewhere, but seems unlikely, which makes it a bit obnoxious. Could maybe look into talking to some of the computer archive folks at some of the history places (computer history museum might be a starting point) about who might be able to help you locate software, or perhaps suggestions about how to get the beast running again? If nothing else, they might have contacts who could help you; contacting the sort of folks who store old floppy disks and keep them working would be the place to start...

MaxiMat is already a name of a series of lathes made by EMCO. My vote is to refer to this machine as MaxiMill (Maximillian).

MQuad. Mini Manual Milling Machine

I would call it Jim.

You came to the US without visiting me 🥺

I have watched your videos on your motor upgrade and have been very impressed, so much so that I have bought the same motor. I am pretty hopeless at CAD so could you please upload your 3D print files for the mounting plate and pulley to Thingiverse. Many thanks.

I hope its a broadsword

They look great - simple and highly effective. I couldn't halp thinking better made out of steel? Why did you select brass?

Chevalier surface grinder, maybe. Cool to see such small material getting machined. Me i machine Giant Coal Haulers nothing small. Absolutely cool. MACHINIST FOR TRUMP WWG1WGA 🇺🇸

How I would do it: - Keep the same revolver setup you already have but add a wedge in the middle so that once the tubes are inserted, you can lock all of them together. Also, make the tubes accessible from both the back and the front. -The backside of the revolver jig needs a shaft to put in the lathe. - Before installing, fill the tubes with hot glue or wax to make them more rigid and workable. - Turn the backside and front in the same setup.

How I would do it: - Keep the same revolver setup you already have but add a wedge in the middle so that once the tubes are inserted, you can lock all of them together. Also, make the tubes accessible from both the back and the front. -The backside of the revolver jig needs a shaft to put in the lathe. - Before installing, fill the tubes with hot glue or wax to make them more rigid and workable. - Turn the backside and front in the same setup.

instead of clamping outside this thin wall stuff, you need to support inside, especially since SS is such a gummy and tough material that will work harden if you're too scared to make a cut steel expanding arbor (with a back stop machined in the arbor) in a lathe, use the tailstock center as a center and expander at the same time, you lock the carriage in the final length position, put a tube on the arbor, move tailstock in, lock, quill to put pressure, center and expand the arbor, and then just cut off to final size this way you never ever rechuck anything, no indicators, no Z movement, you just put a slightly too long tube on and cut to length with X slide, should be good enough to make hundreds of parts that will be +- couple hundreds of mm, definitely not tenths of mm between them and sharp carbide cutoff tool, not insert tooling, but something you sharped from a micrograin broken endmill, the problem with steel tools on SS is that you must take a cut, you can't rub, part will harden and burn the tool, hence carbide, but if the lathe is flimsy, then all this becomes 100x more difficult and I can't give any advice there

I see you can't use 5C so; Make yourself a collet out of brass, drill and ream etc for a close fit for a single tube, make sure to only drill/bore deep enough that it creates a backstop/step allowing the tube to only protrude a small amount from the front face. You can then either cut three slots with a slitting saw or just a hacksaw (they both work) Its a quick cheap way to make custom collets with length stops built in. Then in terms of cutting, a VERY sharp tool. Grind a tool with a lot of side and back rake. I find that works best for thin wall tubing. Light cuts. If that still has issues crushing the tube, Id turn a brass rod insert a close fit to the tube inner diameter. Edit; alternatively consider using tailstock support and making a very thin sharp parting tool to trim the end to length close to the collet face for double support.

Yeah, thin tube is hard to work with. With parts like this, I usually do a rough oversize cut, then install in the next assembly, then finish it as a part of the next assembly. (I.e. flush trim/grind). You might also try using a cutoff wheel mounted to a tool post, advancing inward towards the center of the rotating fixture. An abrasive disc exerts less force. Heat will still be an issue with a plastic fixture.

Milling is pulling them out. You need to fix them in place. Maybe a metal mandrel and some light glue that can be quickly dissolved.

Make some aluminum pie jaws with a shoulder to refrance against and do them on a lathe

Maybe put them in a line, not a circle, it will make a jig easier to make. Make the jig out of something more rigid that will deal with heat. Grind or saw to length with an abrasive blade.

It seems like they need to be clamped in place to some greater degree. I'm not sure how to do it so all the aspects work together, but I picture a line of tubes clamped in a row by a top plate and bottom plate, clamp the bottom plate in the mill laying down, and cut one end and the other end of the tubes in one setup. Maybe the bottom plate could be aluminum or similar, and the top printed, to get better friction with small forces.

Such thin walled tiny tube is hard to proper cut and hold... If your workholding contraption is aligned properly on the machine and clamps properly and even +/-0.05mm should be easily doable imo. Like if you are indicating it and have 0.02mm deviation on the face of the brass backstop you gonna end up with 0.02mm difference in part lenght, if stuff isn't moving. The brass isn't really an issue, sure it will wear faster than steel but it will still last quite a bit. Even a 3D printed one will hold up a few batches if it doesn't get totally violated or too hot. The cutting is the funky part. If possible try to get a grinding attatchment (or 3D print a toolpost holder for a dremel or clamp it somehow) and grind em to lenght on the lathe with a disc in your holder. For milling the cutting forces gonna be too much and buckle or bend or pull out the pipes, same for the lathe, interrupted cuts in such parts are no bueno and might even wreak havoc on your holder if something goes south (i.e the insert snagging onto a dented pipe). On the lathe you could also put em in a collet or on a mandrel with a backstop but that only works for one part. I had issues with machining similar pipes, also stainless just bigger diameter but also very flimsy and freehand dremel'd it on my janky mini lathe, worked excellent. For deburring a wooden stick with a slit to hold fine sandpaper in it will safe your fingertips.

Make a small insert rod 3,95 and put it inside. You can make a small holder like the one you printed and in brass you can insert small inserts and secure them with thread m4. Or you can put the rod insert in the tube and do it on lathe