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Thanks bro, am working on it.

same here

You can use OBD2 code readers to scan for trouble codes.

I think just visually inspect it for any damages, if butterfly closure still swings right, gaskets out of place

The issue might not necessarily be the cost of the oxygen sensor you replaced, but rather the root cause of the slow response. Before investing in a more expensive sensor, it will be wise to investigate other potential factors contributing to the sluggishness, such as air or fuel delivery issues. Additionally, addressing why the check engine light only comes on when the car is warmed up could provide further insight into the problem. I suggest you get a professional mechanic to assist.

Yes, a vacuum leak can cause a P1138 code on a 2005 Nissan Sentra, especially if it affects the swirl control valve.

@@exoniviews Ok. Thank you for replying. I was told by a half baked mechanic that a vacuum leak will not cause the p1138 code he didn't even check. I will have a real mechanic take a look at the vacuum hoses. I appreciate your response. Thank you very much.

Very sorry for late responds. Considering your annual cold weather P0107 code issue on your '08 Pontiac Vibe, despite ruling out common causes like vacuum leaks and faulty O2 sensors, you should also consider checking the intake air temperature sensor and try cleaning the mass airflow sensor, as it might be sensitive to cold conditions affecting air-fuel mixture. Potential issues, as extreme cold can affect sensor performance.

@@exoniviews Great. I’ve cleaned and clean my maf sensor on a regular basis. I may just buy a nu one considering the relative smal cost. C if that works. Thx!

Point noted, thanks for the observation

Unbalanced air fuel ratio & wrong ignition timings can trigger p0400.

Yeah It's possible that your starter is going bad if your truck keeps cranking after you turn it off. You should have it checked by a mechanic to diagnose and address the issue.

Give m

It's great to hear you found this video useful for your 2008 Civic DIY project! You're doing a great job working together on this project and creating a bond. According to your description, it's a good idea to replace the rubber gaskets both inside and outside the intake manifold, especially if they are suspected of causing the erratic idling and the P0507 error code. You can test for leaks by using methods such as smoke testing, or spraying soapy water while the engine runs to look for bubbles. I wish you luck and hope that your repair goes smoothly.

Thank you, I will

I think your car might be having electrical problem. I recommend you get a professional mechanic inspect your vehicle to diagnose and fix the issue. It could be related to a faulty connection, a starter motor problem, or some other electrical issue that they can identify and address.

. Inconsistent RPM levels and power loss could indicate several potential problems, so it's best to have a professional mechanic diagnose and repair the issue to ensure your vehicle's reliability and safety.

Thank you! 🚗 It's possible that a vacuum leak could cause high RPMs. Check for any hissing sounds around the engine bay and inspect vacuum hoses for cracks or disconnects. A smoke test can help pinpoint the leak if needed.

If you recently cleaned your throttle body, it will need a relearn procedure through a scanning tool. If it started all of sudden, probably a leak.

Intermittent lean codes at higher RPMs often point to vacuum leaks or fuel system issues. Check for leaks in the vacuum hoses and inspect the fuel delivery system for problems.

@@exoniviews thanks will do. Any chance a cheap Thornton obd plug and play tuning chip could cause this at all? One was in the truck and was removed 2-3 weeks prior to the start of this happening.

@@lh98 It's possible that the cheap OBD plug-and-play tuning chip could have contributed to the intermittent lean code issue, especially if it was removed shortly before the problem started. These chips can sometimes interfere with the vehicle's engine management system. Removing it was a good first step, but I'd recommend thoroughly checking for any lingering effects or issues it may have caused.

Check out your fuel pressure regulator and fuel injectors

Have this same issue but they say a vacuum leak and there is some small holes around my exhaust system could it be this instead

Ok, It sounds like the gurgling noise from your Škoda's dashboard during ignition might be related to trapped air in the cooling system. This can happen when there's air trapped in the heater core or coolant lines. A common remedy is to "burp" the cooling system to remove air pockets. Here's what you can try: Make sure the engine is cold: Never open the radiator or coolant reservoir cap when the engine is hot to avoid burns. Park on a level surface: Ensure your car is on a flat and level surface. Open the coolant reservoir cap: Slowly open the coolant reservoir cap (if equipped) to release any pressure. Inspect coolant level: Check the coolant level in the reservoir. If it's low, add a mixture of coolant and water to the recommended level. Start the engine: Start the engine and let it run until it reaches normal operating temperature. Keep an eye on the coolant reservoir during this time. Bleed the system: Sometimes, there are bleed screws or valves near the heater core or on the coolant lines. Consult your Škoda's owner's manual to locate them. If available, open these while the engine is running to release any trapped air. Top off coolant: As the engine runs, the coolant level in the reservoir may drop. Top it off as needed. Close the cap: Once the gurgling noise stops and the engine is at operating temperature, close the coolant reservoir cap securely. Monitor for a few days: Keep an eye on your car for the next few days to ensure the noise doesn't return. If it does, you may need to repeat the process or have a professional inspect the cooling system for any leaks or issues. Remember to follow safety precautions and consult your Škoda's specific manual for guidance. If the issue persists, it's advisable to have a qualified mechanic examine your vehicle to rule out any underlying problems.

@@exoniviews Thanks a ton for kind guidance !

Car repairs have evolved since the 1970s, and some repairs may no longer be as easy or inexpensive as before.

You're correct that the "check engine" light for a failing thermostat is more commonly found in newer vehicles. In older vehicles like your 2001 Dodge Ram v8, the computer systems may not have the specific programming to indicate a failing thermostat. However, that doesn't necessarily mean your thermostat is in perfect condition. If you suspect an issue with your thermostat, it's a good idea to keep an eye on your van's temperature gauge for any abnormal readings or signs of overheating. Additionally, if you notice any other symptoms like poor heater performance or fluctuating engine temperature, it's advisable to have a professional mechanic inspect and potentially replace the thermostat if needed.

@@exoniviews I do keep an eye on it and it has been replaced not long ago last year or year before . I do automotive courses and I have been doing my own repairs for some years now. I can tell that it is opening by feeling the top radiator hose for pressure and heat and watching the temp gauge.

The most common sign of a thermostat failure is overheating. Your car's thermostat may become stuck closed due to corrosion or age. The thermostat won't let coolant get to the radiator if this happens. Your engine could overheat. Make sure your radiator is clean, not leaking, and that the fan works properly.