Video

I appreciate the comment. I'll be in contact within the next few days. Thanks for the opportunity.

Thanks for the comment!

@@ShealeysGarage Thank you for mentioning TiAL Sport

Any recommended model for a stock Supra turbo 7MGTE?

@dmd58 Unfortunately I’m not familiar with “7M” setups to offer you any really good feed back or advice.

Yeah single turbo.

@@georgebishop4627 You are supposed to match the spring pressure of your BOV to the idle vacuum of your engine. Different brand BOV’s will have different spring rates that correspond to different vacuum rates. If you have a boost gauge you should be able to see what your vacuum is at idle and go from there. Idle issues can be the result of multiple different things especially if you are running aftermarket parts and/or have a standalone ECU. It can be anything as simple as adjusting your Idle Air Control Valve, to adjusting ignition tables and VE. Lastly I would NOT try changing your spring on the car. There is a good amount of pressure on the bolts (from the spring) holding the valve together….the last thing you would want is to have one fly off and become FOD in your engine somewhere. Having it off the car should allow you to use a clamp to apply pressure evenly on the valve to remove and re-install the bolts.

I have a boost gauge and I'll have to check but it starts at like 20in vacuum but after driving for like 10 mins it will have a high idle and be at like 25in vacuum. I have had literally everything checked on it from biss screw in throttle body to air leaks etc. I have a tuneable aftermarket ECU and it was tuned and running fine for a little while. But if the bov is open and it's not supposed to be that's definitely a concern.

@georgebishop4627 I want to say the BOV is supposed to remain slightly open at idle and only close once you begin to accelerate (raise your vacuum pressure higher than what the spring pressure if raised for.) If you watch the video I have on the Tial BOV on my channel I show the valve opening and closing during acceleration and deceleration. Mine looks like it stays slightly open at idle. I’ll also check again tomorrow morning when I start my car and let you know. Based on your symptoms your describing it sounds like there’s a change with something in your tune when your car gets up to normal operating temp. You said this doesn’t happen until you drive around for ten minutes. Try letting your car sit and warm up for 15 minutes at idle and see if the problem shows up. Did you get a dyno tune/street tune? Or did you do a remote tune? What ECU are you running? Also have you changed anything with your setup since your tune?

It all depends on your specific truck. Some trucks did not have a fuse installed from the factory and others did. Just take a look at your fuse box in the engine bag to see if you have one installed or not.

@@ShealeysGarageokay perfect thank you

Based on all the comments from others, I think it’s a roll of the dice as to weather or not the Amazon controllers work. I would recommend purchasing the OEM controller from Ford and install it yourself. This way you don’t have to worry about getting a faulty one from Amazon.

What spring you on? I have tail bov on mines but i don't hear bov on 11psi spring yellow

@@Phillykappa215 I use an 18"

I’m currently using an 11psi spring as well.

If you already enabled the trailer brake control modules on your ECU, you “should” not have to re-enable it after you install the new trailer brake controller. That’s an assumption though, I would still be prepared too as a backup.

@@ShealeysGarage Thank you.

Thanks. It’s a TiAL Q BOV.

Thanks

It’s a BTI CAN Gauge. It’s connected directly into the AEM Infinity ECU to be able to display all the parameters of the ECU and control certain things like boost, traction control, and the shift light.

I’m currently running an 11psi spring. Haha. Hope this helps.

One of the major pluses of removing the factory oil cooler is increasing the oil pressure. I don’t drive my car in below zero conditions as it’s rarely gets below 32 deg F, where I live. However I could see “some” benefit in extreme cold conditions. But in my situation, letting the car idle for 5-10 minutes is all I need to do to ensure everything comes up to temp. Also The factory oil cooler through testing only assisted in reducing the oil temps by about 2-5 degrees. There are after market oil coolers which are more effective in controlling heat in race applications, but that’s not needed in my case.

I actually didn’t notice that until you pointed that out. Thanks. I’ll go take a look at that today. It should not move like that haha.

Glad I could help!

It’s not a cover, that is a clamp that has the exhaust hanger on it for the HKS TI Race exhaust.

493whp @ 14lbs. Currently limited by the stock fuel system.

Glad I could help.

Hahaha

Thanks man!

Thanks!

Facts! I never thought I would have needed them again haha.

Thanks man I appreciate the comment. I’m running a journal bearing PTE 6766 w/ .81ar. And yeah I haven’t seen a side by side comparison of those two exhausts yet either.

The original insert. It’s silver. I think the other two inserts are red and gold if I remember correctly.

You definitely need to prep the surface by ensuring it is clean prior to applying a wrap. But you do not "need" to sand, apply primer, etc when applying a wrap. However....if you have large imperfections in the paint or body of the car such as dents or chips, some of those imperfections may still be visible after the wrap is applied.

Thanks 🤙🏽

Thanks for sharing how you solved the issue with adding the fuse! I appreciate your comment and I’m glad the video helped you for your install.

Thanks for the comment and glad the video helped.

I appreciate the comment. I’ll definitely give that a read on the forums. I’m always generally pretty weary of shying away from key OEM components so your comment doesn’t surprise me concerning here say on the forums. Again , I’m glad that you found a video helpful. Take it easy and safe cruising.