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loved the video . my 2002 f350 has an idle surge around 600rpm increase . then sputters like it is running out of diesel . if i rev it it will not stall but will happen again . if i do not rev it the truck will stall , and restart 99% of the time and run fine for 50 - 100 + miles .i have changed all above sensors 2 times incase i got a bad one , 3 cam sensors ( one international brand -purple color ) . it went thru over 6 garages & two dealers . been acting up for 5+ years . any other suggestions ? thanks Al

Loved it

Watched your videos all of them I am stumped on the coolant temp sensor I have an 03 manual zf6 and I have no gauge I have a 24.93k ohms on the light side and 16.39m ohms on the gauge at the sensor wires and ends are good With a supply voltage of4.64 dc Any help would be appreciated Tried to ground out the plug and nada dang thing

How long should the check engine light stay on when you turn on the key ? Mine just flashes for half a second then comes back on while cranking.

Thanks for all the content! Got my Fathers truck running after 13 years sitting thanks the knowledge you put out! (Question at the end) Of course not without issues still. From what ive gathered so far truck doesnt build boost above 4psi struggles to shift above 45mph when under load once I let off pedal it will shift and get to highway eventually. Its almost dangerously slow to merge on the interstate seems to be low power on from what ive seen online. Ive done a buzz test injectors sounds fine but forscan shows P1298 - Injector Driver Module Failure after buzz test. Theres no DTCS and even passed a emissions test. Seems to run fine in city just slow untill about 35-45mph. I checked the ICP for the hell of it and I found oil in the connector ill swap it out and see if it helps. But where can you recommend to buy a reputable sensor from in 2024? The link in the description is no longer available. Thanks a ton ill keep studying!

Thanks for the vid . I have a project 99 7.3 with some stif steering wheen at a stand still , i still have some further diagnosing but im suspecting the steering pump but i might also look into the hydroboost. This video was very helpful .

Why didn't ford do this from factory?? Rtv in the oil galley on purpose ive seen it all 😂

Fake

Hello Clint; First off I want to give you a BIG THANKS FOR ALL YOU'RE VIDEO'S. I am tackling rebuilding all injectors and replacing all cups. Question #1 Would I do the same persedure as described in removal of injectors knowingly I'm pulling out the cups. I'm thinking yes Question #2 On the new cups ,,, would you rough up ---- using scotch bite pad --- just where the locte 620 sealant is ??? Or just install the new cups,,, after removal how would you clean the head out using whatever, I've seen kits and cleaning brushes, would you use Part's cleaner after the brushes then sucking it out and immediately after roll the motor over to clean out the cylinder out from any or all debre that might have fell into the cyclender??? QUESTION #3 Would you have an extra holding brackets for the vice while I'm tearing down and reassembly of the injectors...??? Question #4 I'm looking for the injector rebuild kit that you recommend but no luck, could you help me out on that kit numbers and where to get it at or can you just send me a kit and go from there. Build date for the truck is 06/98 260@76ZERO*4FIVE09LEAVEMESSAGE THANKS FOR ALL YOU DO 😊

with the key in "run/on", i have 12v, not 5v, at my ipr connection... i havent pulled the ipr out yet to test its coil resistance. assuming there is no such thing as a 12v coil, i will not only have a fried coil, but also will need to figure out why i have 12v to it instead of 5v... wiring harness issue?

I read the articles where folks are bashing this guy for his video here on this 2.4 ecotec POS. I am a retired mechanic and Have replaced more gm engines and other gm components than any other brand. Gm builds substandard junk and idiots buy them and has for 100 years. This phenomenon is called BRAND LOYAL BLIND. Your parents bought the junk, their parents bought the junk, so it is in-bread into you so you buy the junk. My dad was a chevy guy, bought their crap most of his entire life. They most all, but not all, fell apart engine and transmissions failed like clock work and the paint , electrical issues, HEY but guess what he'd go buy another POS gm garbage can and do it again. Over 60% of folks are stupid when it comes to buying vehicles Oh it looks great, love the color, i'm buying it, ok, go ahead do it but in reality they never think to research the dependability of what they are buying. Yes the 2.4 ecotec is problematic but not everybody has problems with them think of a box of condoms One may take a hell of a beating and the next well you know ripped, blown and now your paying a bitch child support. Oh the engine that GM chose to replace the 2.4 ecotec is made in china, go put that rubber on your tiny pecker.

my 2001 7.3 died on the side of the road yesterday. i have engine oil, fuel in the tank, the bowl fills, the hpop reservoir is full, it cranks but doesnt start- even with the ICP unplugged. any ideas? (no codes)

Blitech will chance its name to Detroit Super Cool Radiator Co And the process starts all over again.

Just remove your bed…

Thank You Sir !! You are The Man !!

Love the video’s and really appreciate the info

Mines a wheeled coach conversion Ambulance i spent a whole day driving it before i realized i was gettin sick from the fumes .. I was assured of it when my cloths were stinkin up the whole house but its a pain to get my doghouse off but im gonna have to find it it really on starts seepin and drippin after it gets to normal runnin temps .. Big thanks for the video from fellow youtuber...

Thanks!

I all most took you seriously...

I ran out of fuel one day on the road and it died on me come to find out the gas line from the fuel sector disconnected itself and now it doesn’t want to start. Already leaked the air from the gas bowl any advice on what it could be? It did shake pretty bad in first gear jumping and what not before I ran out of diesel on the road.

How can I contact you via email with a question love the show

I’ve got some knocking in my 2000 f250 that I just can’t figure out. I could really use some advice. Could I reach out to you for some help?

A friend has the 7.3 which is new to me. My question is he's having a no start situation but will fire on ether. Trying to help him out. His mechanic replaced the sensor on top of the high pressure reservoir and they stripped the sensor port in the upper tank reserve and only will go finger tight. Will that cause on no injector fire situation? Could you test by grounding the the single wire lead to the system? Could you provide a part number for the upper reservoir cover. Thank you for your videos and your future response. My friend has lost faith in his 7.3....

Ya missed a huge one with burning up alternators, and killing batteries. LEAKING WINDSHIELD THAT SEEMS TO FUNNEL DIRECTLY INTO THE INSIDE FUSE BOX. . . many years have leaking windshields from 99 up... if your AC fan starts blowing when no keys are in? radio turns on with the keys out? .... often it just drains the batteries over a few day period. Either way, it's a common issue and if ya don't know to look for it, it's a pain in the ass....

Sorry but the oil in the hpop makes a huge difference.. I don’t care what way you spin it.. I have personally noticed a difference once I started to change it. I will continue to change it on my 7.3. If y’all don’t fine. It’s your truck.. made a difference for me so i will keep doing it.. just a tip from a life long mechanic in Ohio.

So I’ve got 2 of the f4t sensors. I get my 5v. 12v and ground but when I plug it in and test with a piece of metal my 5v doesn’t drop down to zero. Code p0340 1995 f350 7.3 Also for this truck I can’t pull any pids does the pcm need to be reflated to be able to read pids? FORScan lite with vlinker Bluetooth

Hey Clint, how is the Adrenaline HPOP working for you? I am considering it for my 2000. I'm running WW2 and 4" muffler delete pipe. Bought my truck new in 200o and it only has 106K miles on it. My HPOP and IPR are working up to spec and my injectors seem to be fine without starting issues and 19MPG. I recently installed a Hydra chip and I would like to upgrade to a KC turbo, Adrenaline HPOP and single shot injectors. I was thinking the HPOP would be a good place to start. I really aprreciate your great videos and expertise.

Anybody got any idea what all that was about ? in what circumstances ? I drove diesel vans in England for about ten years (the rest being petrol) and never had any problems starting, I mean if it's old (like mine) providing your glow plugs work and you have a really good, or better, two really good batteries, the things will start. Fast and hot, she'll go !!

Y'all are crazy

I'm drinking watching this and a diesel in the background getting cramped. I am correct? Please don't tell me I'm losing my mind too. Lol CLINT ALLEN VS HOLYFIELD! You're pretty darn precise my friend. I love watching your vids. Thanks Clint

Just don't let the radiator fluid leak into your beer and its all good. 😀

CHECK VALVE CROWN SOLUTION: If anyone on here is having issue with the crown removal try this. Step 1: After removing the cap, spring and ball, remove all the oil using a section tube or twisted paper towel from the drain. Step 2: place the old ball back in and heat the ball and crown for approximately 1 min. This should provide enough heat for the metal to expand and release from the block. Step 3: Use a modified pick to remove collar and replace with new one. I wouldn’t risk it with the chisel method and just using a pick with no heat does not work. Best of luck and hope this helps someone. Don’t light your truck on fire. 😅

But you still need a vent, what the guy was saying was people were doing mods causing their trucks to fail, that’s possible, I have personally seen 7.3 motors fail because of this, people taking smaller diameter hoses and running them like 4ft to vent to atmosphere and it made it fail. So don’t make it sound like this isn’t an important topic, like you can just delete it

Actually the entrance of the CCV into the intake is backwards to slow the movement of the gases/oil/debris from the crank case from freely flying into the turbo wheel, clamp your ccv tube once, it causes enormous amounts of blow by, so he was actually correct in saying it creates a sort of a vacuum system to keep equal pressure in the motor to keep from having to much and blow by issues… so…? Your kind of acting like a jackass…

So only 76 ft lbs in the bracket that bolts to motor mounts?

I’m having issues with my new be valve deleted pedestal leaking from block to pedestal it’s not running into the valley it’s leaking over the top of the transmission I’m going to put another set of ford orings would they seal better if I put gray rtv on top and bottom of the orings?

Thorough as always

I happened onto his videos (no idea how) and he's worried about CZcams viewers and how long they watch his stuff. The billionaire who cares about you watching..... Lol, yep

Interesting we use OEM master and slave components and add a high quality line to replace the cheap plastic line that tends to fail.

How do you remove the collar from the block? Thanks

The best thank you

I'm very glad he's not my Doctor !

The port facing the opposite direction won’t be able to completely overcome the venturi effect. The air flowing into the intake helps suck the ccv gasses

I don't think anyone believes it, its just the spectacle that people like.

Hi, I never could see the specific model number of the batteries you have in the video. I recently bought a 1995 7.3 E350 and noticed that the batteries it calls for are two different sizes, one 600 Amp group 50 and the other an 850 amp group 65. Should I look to replace them with batteries of the same size to each other or go with what was originally in there, and if so why? Also, what CCA should I be looking at? I am specifically looking at the Odyssey batteries but my 1995 van is not even listed on their site. In other words, what would YOU put in my van if it were yours? Thanks in advance for any advice you can offer.

2000 EXCURSION 7.3 Started misfiring on acceleration for about 5 miles, then just shut off and wouldn't restart. Scanned and got these codes. P1670 (Electronic feedback signal not detected) P1280 (ICP Sensor Circuit low) P0478 (Exhaust pressure control valve high input) I disconnected ICP, still no start. The electronic feedback code has me thinking its the PCM however , when i turn the key forward I get the glow plug light and check engine light, Where should I start?

Have you ever had a 7.3 that once it is heat soaked the starter won’t engage? I have replaced the starter and the clutch starter safety switch. But, after the engine is good and hot that starter doesn’t get the power., but it works fine cold. Could it be the starter relay or the fuse-able link?

Having a no communication problem with pcm 97 7.3 f250. Maybe a ground? Or bad pcm idm? Looking for a way to test pcm ...pin test or something

Where location are you installing the line for the mechanical gauge foir the oil pressure

Is there any way to check- test for the low pressure oil pump?