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My pleasure! I hope your fingers made it through the job in better shape than mine did!

Centering was something that I didn't give as much attention to for some reason. Rookie submitter mistake.

Right on. I was honestly overwhelmed with the flood of information on their site and didn't know where to find their metrics when I made the video. My next reveal will (hopefully) be much more polished. I appreciate the input!

@@DanWright-w7x That's a great idea. It would definitely help preserve the threads. I think I'll only be able to use mine one more time before I need to replace it.

@@articulatingprimate6980 I do. Why do you ask?

It can be tricky. Make sure the guides in the pitman arm line up with the steering gear post. It's a tight fit and will only slide a little without mechanical force behind it. Making sure everything is aligned is the important part.

Thanks for checking it out and subscribing! I just subbed your channel. I'm a big fan of random s**t so I'm always excited to find other channels that don't stick to just one niche. Old school CZcams is making a comeback!

Thanks for checking it out! I agree and hope TAG and the tech behind it catches on but the more I talk to people, the more I worry PSA won't be losing the crown anytime soon. Hopefully PSA either buys TAG, or one of the very big sellers/YTers starts propping them up.

Thanks for checking it out! I'm rooting for TAG because of the accuracy but those numbers definitely don't make sense if trying to resell. I have a few NFL cards I'm sitting on until the season starts. Hopefully football fans adapt faster than baseball fans!

@@funcle_kevin Same, nice thing is it’s not another random start up company. At least they’re doing something innovative. To be honest it may help me make sure I keep PC Cards that are tag lol knowing the money I put in and won’t get for resale

@@zoestertoaster27 I completely agree. It's going to take a long time, if ever, for demand to bring the prices up enough to make TAG a viable option. It's a shame.

Yeah I sent a few cards to tag for personal collection bc I like the clear slabs and the dig report. Definitely won’t be selling though. I like both grading companies.

Absolutely. They seem to be stricter with their grading all around, which isn't necessarily a bad thing but definitely something people should consider when deciding where to send their cards.

@@funcle_kevinnot a bad thing at all that’s what you want unbiased assessment Curious if they do die cuts have a kyler crown Royal auto I’ve been wanting to grade

@@NobodyUR It's my understanding that they don't do die cuts right now but are planning on starting to grade them soon.

@@funcle_kevin yeah I looked into it after posting . Bummer.

I'm glad you enjoyed it!

Not looking good right now for TAG. I have a few watchers on TAG cards that are listed below $20, but no one is pulling the trigger.

Because buyers are retarded

Thank you! I'm glad you enjoyed it.

I just ran a head-to-head comparison between TAG and SGC. The SGC card sold for 2.5 times more than the exact same TAG card. The TAG card got more views. People know about it, they are just not interested in buying.

@@funcle_kevin I would buy TAG all day at a 2.5 time discount.

Most collectors know about tag it’s all over hobby message boards. There is a video of a guy resending in a card and it also gets different grades so it’s not dialed in yet. My guess is they will sell off to one of the big companies anyways.

@@joemofo5689 I haven't seen that video, but am interested. I've seen 2 where people send back their cards and not only get the exact same grade from TAG, but also get the exact same cert number.

Semper fi! I'm glad it helped!

I'm not sure I understand what you mean. Are you talking about the sticker that holds the box closed?

@@funcle_kevin yes, it peels right off and it’s much easier to

What do you suggest to make it easier?

@@funcle_kevin from watching your video, dropping the steering box would be easier. Your video is evidence that it was a pita for you, and is not the "easy way". Maybe just change the title to "my way".

It's hard not to!

Thanks for watching and I'm glad it helped! That's a great tip about removing the lights. It hadn't even occurred to me!

Good point. If you're talking about the Kelce card, the back shows top/bottom centering to be slightly less that 40/60, but the section labeled "DEFECTS IDENTIFIED OF NOTABLE GRADE SIGNIFICANCE" only shows the front centering as being the issue. I don't know if this means they don't grade the backside as strictly as the front, or if there is something else I might have overlooked. I have another order coming from TAG tomorrow so I'm thinking about doing another video with more focus on the reports now that I'm a little more familiar with them. I honestly didn't think I'd be so overwhelmed with the amount of information the first time I looked at it!

Right on! That's good to know. I'll reach out to them soon. Good luck with your channel!

I've never graded with SGC, only CGC, but as another commenter mentioned, they should work with you to get those cards re-slabbed. Thanks for sharing! #TheHobbyist

No doubt! I'm glad you enjoyed it. Thank you for the blessing. Be well, my friend!

You're welcome!

Thank you! I'm glad you enjoyed it! Hopefully it helped you save a few bucks!

My pleasure! I'm glad you enjoyed it!

Sorry for the late reply. I just saw your comment. How did everything go?

It would be nice to have them explain why it's like this. Having the numbers is nice but still leaves collectors guessing as to what they are looking for and what causes which grades.

The back centering dropped it down 1 full point I think.

Back centering.

That makes sense. It would've been nice to have a sleeve on each, but I'll survive.

That's a good point. I showed my friend, and he was also confused about the score, but we hadn't considered the report itself might be the real issue.

@@funcle_kevin I mean it's just a guess on my part obviously. I'm not that familiar with TAG. I've used PSA, SGC, and CSG (or whatever they're calling themselves this week). The few TAG digg reports I've looked at made sense as far as why the grade is the grade. That's the only one I'm stumped by.

@@JChamberlin I think it's a pretty good guess and at least satisfies my curiosity for now. I might send in another batch that I look over more closely, using this batch as sort of a baseline. Hopefully there will be consistency.

It got the 9 because the top to bottom centering on the front was 40/60 and anything less than 45/55 drop out of the 10 category.

Thank you!

I've been meaning to replace the cover for a few years. This might be the summer it finally gets replaced!

At least you know how much abuse it can take now!

@@funcle_kevin Dang tho

@@Untoldkite lol. I understand.

@@funcle_kevin u couldve sold that 4 like 100 dollars on ebay

@@Untoldkite It came up as blacklisted a while back and wasn't working perfectly. The risk isn't worth $100, and this way is more fun.

Breaking it will definitely relieve some stress!

I am watching from an iPhone 7+ 💀

I'll have to keep an eye out for it; it'll definitely save a lot of hassle. I know Amsoil makes it like that but didn't know Valvoline did. I'm surprised I haven't run across it yet.

@@funcle_kevin I got mine at good old wally mart.

Awesome! If I remember correctly, the Yukon might have a factory drain plug for the transmission pan as well, which also makes that job much less frustrating.

Yes it does. Although you only get like 3 quarts out at a time.

@@hud351 That's still a lot better than 4 quarts dumping onto your driveway!

lmao! I agree!

In a 1500 with the factory diff? Something is not right. For starters, the rear diff isn't a fill and spill set up, it needs to be a specific distance below the fill hole. Regardless, with 4 qts, you should have seen some spill out. Without seeing it, I would have to guess the truck either wasn't level, or has a rear diff from a 2500 or 3500.

@@funcle_kevin or a leak in the axle seal/gaskets?

@@tommytwo-tips5785 Definitely possible, although I would think they'd have to be almost nonexistent for the oil to push past them without any resistance. You could pull a tire and see if you see oil pouring out, but the absence of oil doesn't necessarily disprove the theory.

@@tommytwo-tips5785 wouldn’t you see that leaking out as you fill it?

@@kellismith4329 no I didn’t! I laid under my truck for 25 minutes. Had no idea where it was going, but I took it around the block and came back and it was leaking. Saw it coming from the passenger axle where it meets the diff. It’s in the shop right now, I’d do it myself but I’m in the middle of packing to move so didn’t want the extra stress

I'm surprised the air hammer didn't work, but heat definitely should. If it's still stuck after applying the heat, you might try cutting a vertical line into the side of the pitman arm where it wraps around the steering gear post to weaken it a bit. Don't go all the way through or else you could damage the post, but a deep enough cut and a few whacks from the air hammer should do the trick.

Word!

That's a good point. I've seen evidence of my front diff seals leaking and attribute it to the unnecessary movement of parts that are not in use. All in all, I'd say having them last 290,000 miles suggests it isn't all that bad of a design, but it would be a whole lot better if I didn't have to replace them soon.

@@funcle_kevinMy 2000 Silverado 1500 has 315,000 but I only got it at 246,000 so I don't know the history. The 5.3 is great but has always had rattling valves because of a factory issue, it sounds like the timing is off at 40-50 mph half throttle. My machinist has the same truck with 360 thousand miles and his does the exact same thing. He said putting in new valve guides on customer vehicles has fixed the problem before. It leaks a quart every 1,000 miles. The transmission has never leaked on me and both differentials seem to be original. If you ever change the transfer case fluid on these trucks know that the lovely engineer that designed them decided to make the housing out of magnesium (extremely flammable) and the fill and drain plugs are aluminum. They will not come out. You have to use a heat coil gun over the bolt head or a really good heat gun. I have never seen the 18 mm aluminum bolt heads not strip out, which mine did of course. Apparently it is such a common problem there is a GM Service bulletin on it.

@@buttonysquare8501 I've been fortunate in that I haven't had those issues. I know there was something questionable about the heads they used early on, but can't remember which castings were the good ones (799 rings a bell). My engine is the L33, which is all aluminum. That might be the difference. Also, I wonder if in addition to worn valve guides (or a broken lifter), you might be hearing the sound of a loose timing chain. I changed mine around 200k and it was a bit loose when I took it off. There was some rattling before then, but I wouldn't relate it to timing, at least as far as performance goes. A trick to avoid the stuck plugs on the transfer case is to change the fluid every 30k miles so it doesn't seize up. I'm guessing the previous owner ignored that part of the owner's manual. My friend has a 2010 and his front diff fill plug basically needs to be cut off each time he changes his fluid, but that has a lot to do with his own neglect of maintenance. Good luck with it all. Luckily, it's a very easy platform to work on and the parts are relatively inexpensive.

​@@funcle_kevinIt's been doing the rattling/pinging noise for the last 75 thousand miles I've had it. It only does it at about half throttle between 40-50 mph. It sounds exactly like detonation would sound from a motor that isn't timed right. There are no timing related sounds and it idles great. It sounds great at every other speed. I've always had piston slap that these motors have on a cold day where the piston skirt coating wears off and there is too much clearance until they warm up. People will complain that they "diesel" when cold, which is this noise. My machinist has the exact same truck (2000 Silverado 1500 with the 5.3 and 360k) and was surprised when I asked him about it and we had the same issue. From what I've read online not many people complain of it, but the ones that have mentioned the same issue say it is a valve guide clearance defect from the factory on the 99-02 models. I did not tell that info to my machinist and he told me that other people have brought him the same motor with the same complaint before, thinking the motor was about to blow up. He said he would do full head jobs and the motors would still do it until a different time he changed the valve guides too and that fixed the problem. I've been driving it for 5 years straight everyday for work without issue. I came in several months later to get some drums and rotors turned for a 79 F250. The same machinist was actually talking to a guy when I was there that happened to also have a another 99-06 with 569,000 miles, supposedly all original major parts. The previous owner actually sold the truck thinking it needed a motor but I've just been driving it. According to the earlier forums I was reading on people were saying some live forever with the issue, others with the problem already dropped a valve and are in a junkyard. Thanks. I subscribed to help you out.