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I recently purchased Proyama 4-cycle gas powered mower and was pleasantly surprised by the high performance, easy of operation, quality of construction and price. I decided to buy their weed/wacker as I started to cut my own lawn between my twice monthly commercial lawn maintenance.

I've had the HF unit for over 10 years and it's still chugging. Bought a larger Vevor and wasn't as impressed with it, it wouldn't get as hot as yours and the HOBO unit gets almost boiling and I've found it cleans extremely well, if it fits, it cleans it. I only bought the Vevor unit to clean 12 speed mtn bike cassettes and have been mostly disappointed with it, actually. It always cleaned my smaller cassettes perfectly.

You did a nice clean smart looking project with those off cuts 1x4. Well done

Look at a ZX22D From Kymron

I have a AGT qh12, changed the oil at about 10 hours, oil looked and smelled ok. I now have 40 hours and other than the swing motor bolts backing out I have had no issues. I added a fan and so far haven’t overheated - it would boil the gas in 20 minutes of hard work prior. I modified the thumb strut attachment using a bolt with an r clip so now I can change the thumb position without tools. Next best thing to a hydraulic thumb!

Why do you not take the carburetor apart, before cleaning. Now all the loose dirt inside, is still there. 🥴

50C = 122F

I have a 67a, I purchased days after I got out of the Navy in Dec. 1972, at a pawn shop for $19.00. It is almost flawless, and a great shooter, I've probably put a couple thousand rounds through it, and a lot of small game in my belly.

Thanks fer the info man.

Very helpful - nice to see it apart. Wondering what you had to drain to pull that - the whole hydraulic system, or is it kind of isolated to a small amount.

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Take the shroud off and use the flywheel

How did you slide the front drive axel back in?

My one suggestion is to remove the two ends of the grease tubes under the floor board and pump grease until until you see grease come out and then re-attach them. On mine I found that there wasn't much grease in the two tubes and I had to pump a lot of grease in before it finally started oozing out. When looking the fittings facing the front, the fitting on the right side is for the swing gear. Can put a shot of grease, then rotate the machine a little and put another shot, rotate more and put another shot etc to coat the entire gear. The one on the left is for the bearings which doesn't need a whole lot of grease. As for that stump, you could have lowered your thumb and grabbed it. Your machine will have no problem lifting it right off the ground. I have a Landhero as well. Mine has a slightly different body, I have the 'counter weight' like the AGT H12 which I call a bumper because it isn't really all that heavy. And your hydraulic lines are inside the boom which is nice, mine are on the outside. And your motor has the exhaust pointing the right way, on mine the exhaust goes sideways :-/ For me the in-tank filters are good enough. A spin on filter would be nice, easy to change and probably a smaller micron filter element. Thus far I love mine, the only thing I don't like is it's slow speed. I think all of these Chinese minis are slow.

❤❤❤❤❤ love the video! I own 3 stihls, 1 huskavarna and just purchased a 6220 and love it. 3 years paid 106 dollars no problems

use a ball hone and pay attention to how many strokes you take. Chances are you will need to tear down the rest of the engine and get a .020 or .030 piston and have a machine shop bore it out. WIth an outboard you need only oversize the bad hole, the otehr pistons can remain standard. It is not like a car. But if you have to hone more than say 18 to 22 strokes you have already oversized that hole and it will no longer be round. Doesn't cost much more to bore one cylinder and you can then see the others and how they really are. Force outboards were not the greatest for top speed but they were fantastic at low end torque. my experience? 54 years as marine mechanic and repair shops nation wide. (retired this year)

Thats a hugely helpful video. Thats a solid way to do that repair. You said it exactly. Im a guy trying to keep the family boat going. Thanks a lot

Can you pull roots with it? I have a gutbrod thats alright for it.

That little cage ball is for steeping tea.

I gotta rebuild my 400, an old man had the truck never ran it hard at all. I’m going to have the block checked, cam and main bearings checked for true center. Then I’m going to order a Eagle rotating assembly and leave everything stock dimensions for California smog compliance. 😢. I wanna build a bulletproof 400, and have a pre lube system on it. Oil pressure for 30 seconds before each start.

Interesting comment regarding the oil, heard years ago that the motorcycles coming from Japan had fish oil in the forks and it was indeed recommended to change it immediately.

Burnells blueing works great. Best out there. Cold blue

Can i wire is from direct 230v or i need two hot wires from 120v. Please need to know

What’s the part number for the head gaskets you used? I’m having trouble finding the right ones

Short cut king!

I have used the HF unit for years. Yes you have to rotate parts. I have cleaned many carbs and I have gotten my monies worth. Maybe if I was in the business of cleaning carbs a bigger unit may be worthwhile. If you are in the business you also need a bead-blaster machine and a good buffing machine.

Your demo shows you wildly swinging this brush cutter to terrorize twigs with constant throttle blips...where a pushmower would be better suited. Throttle up, make the cut, throttle down. not 27 blips as you walk from one target to the next, only to slam the almost-stalled blade into a cut. Also, there is obviously a guide intended to feed work into the left side of the blade. This is why you keep slamming this thing into the dirt when feeding into the right side of the blade while it tries to yank itself out of your hands.

Does Vevor make a Fahrenheit model for Americans?

I've a Case 222 tractor that I use to blow snow. Has a rebuilt engine and I expect it to be running for the next 35 - 40 years. I've gone all over it with new paint and decals. It doesn't just run like new; it looks like new too.

Don't you have to measure the float level?

I have an old Bravo that would not start unless I put gas in the sparkplug hole. So I found a mechanic that would put a primer pump and now with three pumps it starts on the first or second pull.

What would the average cost be to have a shop rebuild the carburetors on the same engine?

Great info add. Just curious how can the block reduce pressure for the loader without affecting the backhoe and rockshaft that are downstream in the hydraulic circuit? Just learning about this stuff, and appreciate the added detail.

It's so the creosote doesn't seep out and make a mess is what i saw a guy saying on another video.

The same thing happened to me this past weekend. I bought without checking first

Hey there. Depending on your model of Echo, the fast idle can be selected by pulling the choke and pushing it back in. Do not pull the throttle trigger until you want to kick it down to normal throttle.

Pinesol works awesome

How loud is this compressor? Sounds loud.

I have the same compressor. Got my fingers crossed. I put a belt guard mounted after cooler on mine to dry the air. Swapping the motor would be a bit more trouble, but doable. The after cooler really makes a difference. The tank stays at room temperature. I have a two year warranty. Hopefully if it dies, it does it before then. I'm not whelmed by the motor quality or how loud the thing is.

Sounds awesome man! What carb and intake do you have on there? I just picked up Hedman long tubes, an Edelbrock intake and and Edelbrock AVA2 650 CFM carb. I’m hoping she’ll sound like what you’re running there!

When I refinished the stock on one of those old Winchesters I used a product called LinSpeed oil. Something like that. It worked well, I did apply a number of coats but I couldn't say how many today.

I NOT a Harbor Freight fan, but your comparison is apples to oranges. Harbor Freight also make a larger ultrasonic cleaner.

A simple aircraft 4x rivet gun kit would probably serve you well in the future because it looks like you're not frightened by the scale of this type of work. Solid rivets FTW!

Did you make sure the polarity is switched pretty sure polarity is different between steel and aluminum

Just to throw a little shit into the game.....for the J.C. Higgins POWER-PAC choke tubes and similar where the choke is a screw-in insert into the big ventilated tube....all this came along BEFORE the polyethylene wads that everyone uses and buys in factory ammunition these days (and for the last 60 years or so). Back then, high speed photos taken at the muzzle showed the petals of the wads peeling back as soon as the shot column left the muzzle. With the POWER-PAC that happens inside the big tube the choke screws into. Iam told the plastic petals can sometimes rip off and stay there waiting for the next shot. Probably will not hurt the gun but will likely affect the pattern. I have one of the poly-choke type screw-ins that is on the end of the big tube and likely works better, although I have not completely tested it yet. Likely I will just remove all that and mount a genuine poly choke on the end of the actual barrel.

What kind of cleaning fluid did you use?

Nice work!

It is definitely functional. Not matching or at least trying to match. the gel coat would set my OCD off for sure.

Nice job, thanks

*Promosm* 🙋