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Outboard engines should never be run dry as water pump impeller failure will occur, followed by engine damage due to overheating. Depending on the model of outboard you have, they either need to have a flushing attachment installed onto the lower unit or a hose hooked up to the outboard flush system. We recommend checking the operator's manual for the product you own to determine how to run the engine when the lower unit is not submerged in water.

The fuel filter used on the 150hp FourStroke is part number 879885Q. It does not contain any O-rings. If you've discovered a broken or loose O-ring, it is likely from inside the quick connection fitting on one of the fuel lines that connect to the filter. For those part numbers or component breakdowns, we'd recommend connecting with your Mercury Marine dealer or Mercury Marine product support. Contact details can be found via the link below. Thank you! 🔗: www.mercurymarine.com/us/en/about-us/contact-us

This is going to depend on which 9.9hp EFI engine you have. Previous 9.9hp EFI ProKicker models (serial numbers 0R833820 through 1R281444) have the same oil filter as the 15hp EFI shown here, which uses filter wrench part number 802653Q02. If your engine is the newest model of 9.9hp EFI ProKicker offered by Mercury Marine (serial number 1R281445 and above), it will not have an oil filter.

Filling from the top can trap air pockets within the lower unit in the gears and bearings. Once those pockets work their way out, the gear lube level then will be too low. It is best to fill from the bottom.

There are no sacrificial anodes on the engine block that require routine maintenance on the Mercury 150hp FourStroke.

It is not necessary to remove the oil fill cap prior to pumping the oil.

@@QuicksilverProducts what a quick response thanks!

There are several crucial steps involved when removing and reinstalling the gear housing from an outboard engine or sterndrive-equipped boat. We recommend obtaining the service and repair manual for the product you own for step-by-step instructions and torque specifications. If you own a 150hp outboard from Mercury Marine (as shown in this video), we recommend reaching out to Mercury directly for a manual. Contact details for the nearest Mercury Marine facility can be found via the link below. Thank you! www.mercurymarine.com/us/en/about-us/contact-us

Per the operator's manual for the 40hp - 60hp engine family, the only anodes that require replacement as routine maintenance are located under the power trim/transom bracket assembly and on each side of the gear housing. We recommend reaching out to Mercury Marine directly if you have questions related to parts of the engine that were not mentioned here. Contact details for your nearest Mercury Marine office can be found via the link below. Thank you! www.mercurymarine.com/us/en/about-us/contact-us

Sometimes it's possible to find and grab the fuel line through the opening with a needle nose pliers or a flexible-reach grabber tool. In extreme cases, the lower cowling will need to be removed.

If you're leaking gear lube in the area of your propeller, you likely have a failed propeller shaft seal. These keep water out of the lower unit and gear lube in. We do not have a video showing the repair of this, unfortunately, as it is a fairly intensive process. We recommend contacting an authorized service center for the product you own to have this inspected and repaired as many times it requires specialty tools.

The 150hp Mercury outboard propeller nut should be torqued to 55 lb-ft (75 Nm).

The water intake should be facing forward whether the anode features a trim tab or not. Our anodes are manufactured in accordance with the factory specifications set forth by the original manufacturer of the outboard (Yamaha, in this case). Internal notes indicate this is a cooling passage to direct water into the exhaust and propeller hub area when under way, but we recommend touching base with Yamaha for their technical answer as they designed the outboard and cooling passages. 😊

We recommend contacting Mercury Marine product support for questions pertaining to parts other than those specified in the operator's and service manuals. Contact details for Mercury Marine can be found via the link below. Thank you! www.mercurymarine.com/us/en/about-us/contact-us

While it is not a requirement, running the engine first to warm the oil can help it drain faster.

It could be that your gear lube monitor hasn't been draining each time, which would mean the lubricant in the monitor is aging. Depending on the climate you operate in, the gear lube monitor could also be accumulating some condensation from time to time. While gear and bearing material wear is normal and can be seen in the gear lube or on the magnetic plugs, larger shavings or metal chunks would be an indication of damage within. We'd recommend keeping an eye on these plugs again during your next lube change. If finding metal on the plugs is a consistent issue, you may want to chat with your Mercury Marine dealer for guidance in your specific case.

Welcome to the boating community! There are no air filters to change on your outboard. As far as power steering is concerned, that would likely be highlighted in your boat's operator's manual as that is a boat rigging component. In most cases, the power steering system doesn't need much maintenance. Aside from checking the fluid level, we're not aware of anything else you would need to address.

The steps taken in this video are aligned with what is written in the service materials provided by Mercury Marine.

The fuel lines leading to the filter and from the filter to the Fuel Supply Module (FSM) are low pressure fuel lines. When the key is on or the engine is running, a lift pump within the FSM pulls fuel from the boat's fuel tank through those lines and that filter. Fuel is then stored within the FSM where another pump, the high pressure pump, pressurizes that fuel and feeds it to the fuel rail on the engine. You did not have fuel flowing through the disconnected lines because there was no vacuum to pull the fuel from the tank, and the engine was running because there is stored fuel within the FSM available for the high pressure pump to use for the engine. If you let the engine run long enough, that fuel will get used up, and the engine will stop running. Think of the FSM similar to how a toilet tank works. There is a float inside, and the lift pump runs until enough fuel is pulled into the FSM and the float rises. Once the float rises, the lift pump shuts off, all the while the high pressure pump within the FSM is pressurizing that fuel for the engine. When the high pressure pump uses enough fuel that the float drops, the lift pump turns on again, pulling more fuel into the FSM.

Anodes can and should be changed throughout the ownership of the engine. While they may be deteriorated, they are likely still serving a purpose, and have been doing their job. Swapping them out with new ones will ensure that your engine stays protected for years to come. 👍

Correct. Spark plugs do not need to be indexed on the 40hp - 60hp Mercury engine family.

Yes, spark plugs can be reinstalled and torqued to the specified setting again after inspection.

For most applications, the full down position when the boat is on the trailer will be close enough to level as to not cause any concerns. If the engine on your application tucks in to a negative trim position while on the trailer, then it would be best to trim it back out slightly so the anti-ventilation plate above the propeller is level.

It also would've been nice to include the part numbers for the combination prop wrench and block, gear oil and amount, and new plug washers/seals. Also torque on the prop nut.

Always rub oil all over my rubber before putting it on to.

Why? Seems more of a marketing gimmick. Local dealer told me yamalube is ok, and Sierra is ok. I would assume quicksilver is ok.

@@JoeDoggTV ran 21 years Yamaha vmax 150. Never had a single issue. Only used yamAlube. I should have never traded it in for new Yamaha. I would never ever use any thing else. Would u?