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There are local motor repair places but I found it cheaper to ship across the country to somebody in California. I found them because they were listed in a Google search for my motor part number.

No, broken hinges. Cracks developed between the barrel of the hinge and the mounting point on the jamb. I don't use the other storm door, so I swapped it's middle hinges with the broken hinges on this door

Why??

I think it is just a single bolt or setscrew on each post, so should be easy to separate. I'm at work so not near the machine right now, but if I'll reply again tonight if it is anything different. Enjoy!

@@m1chaelf4 awesome, thank you so much!

@@m1chaelf4 you were right. 4 set pins I had to bash out with a punch. Then just needed to unscrew the depth ruler and disconnect the power cord from the base. Your trick of raising the bed with spacer blocks worked perfectly after that. Thanks again!

I've had the same jointer/planer since 1990 also. Great tool still in action though I need to do a thorough restoration myself. As for jointer snipe, I've found it has everything to do with setting the knives. Since there's no adjusting the outfeed table, the knives have to be set perfectly to the back table. The little magnet things that came with the tool wear out and the replacements you can buy don't work as well as the originals. I found some longish flat regular solid magnets (around 2" long) that work well but I use a slightly different method to set them. With a straight metal ruler, I raise the infeed table to exactly the height of the outfeed table then set the magnets across the two tables. I set the knives like usual, push the knife down low, place the magnets across the tables then gently loosen the bolts to let the springs push the knife up against the magnets. I've had really good luck in getting the jointer knives set perfectly in that way and don't get snipe anymore. The same magnets work fine on the planer. I can get a little snipe with the planer still if the wood I'm sending through is not perfectly flat. Not much though. These old Jointer/planers still work better than anything new I've seen. Well designed and well built tools.

@@jonmars9559 Thanks for your input! I have no problem with the jointer getting a very nice flat true edge. I bought carbide knives a number of years ago and will temporarily install them and see how well they work and last. More recently I purchased a shelix cutter head which requires a little modification (minor) to the casting/housing to accommodate the new bearing. Have you had any problems with the motor? I am replacing the on/off switch and the carbon brushes very soon. Thank you your response!

@@jonmars9559 Just curious......were you born on September 5, 1959?

@@candesearl It's always fun to find a fellow enthusiast. Let's see, a few years ago I did have the armature repaired and motor rewound. What I found was that the brushes should be replaced regularly and the dust blown out of the motor periodically. Worn brushes and dust build up shortens the life of the armature. The on/off switch I replaced with a simple toggle. The original safety lock switch always filled with dust and failed prematurely. I replaced the switch with the original type a couple of times and gave up. Also I've been thinking of doing the helical cutterhead swap myself. If you get to it first, let me know how you like it. I found another F-1000 A on Craigslist and was planning to do the swap on that one first and get it tuned up for shop service before I rebuild my original one. There are some great videos on how to install the helical cutterhead on CZcams but I want to practice on the Craigslist planer before I tear into my old faithful.

@@jonmars9559 Hi Jon, the reason I asked you how old you are is that many people put their name and date of birth into their address. I am VERY close to your age. There other reason is that you write in complete sentences. Many people born in the 1990's or later really struggle to write ✍ a cogent sentence. 🙂 I was a machinist for many years, but fell in love with wood. It smells good (most of the time) it is cleaner and has that special unique patina, which many wood species grow and develop in beautiful ways. I work with quartersawn white oak and cherry most of the time. By the grace of God I still have all of my fingers and I can pick my nose with the best of them! 🙂 Once again, thank you for your response.

Thanks! Bessie was originally my great-grandfather's 1965 C-10, then used infrequently by my grandfather to carry mom and my aunt's horses to the county fair, then my daily driver in high school

Heat the belt in hot water to make them softer, then roll the pulleys and guide the belt to jump one tooth at a time until they are on

Unplug the tool, use hot water to soften the new belt, and hand-roll the system as you force the belt to jump teeth until it is on. It will take effort, but it will go on

@@m1chaelf4 Thank you so leave the jointer belt in place and work the new belt in between and like you said hot water to soften belt and just work it?

Oh and this is the first belt I have replaced since I purchase the machine in April of 1983

Yep. Even though I had my machine fully disassembled, the belt cannot be installed until reassembled, so this is how I did it

@@m1chaelf4 did you have to remove the jointer? to do this?

Maybe you can find a way to add shims, but I don't immediately see any adjustment on mine. A machine shop might be able to regrind the ways?

I think this is a great time laps. I don't think we can expect Michael Finch et al to provide a frame by frame descriptive review. And there isn't much control that CZcams allows. You're waving your wanger at the wrong people. Make a well reasoned complaint to CZcams.....

Sorry, that URL wasn't clean. here it is forum.canadianwoodworking.com/forum/tools/power-tools/1289717-hitachi-f-1000a-repower-project

I packed it full of grease then reassembled the geat train. I'm not sure how often, but as a hobby-level woodworker, I don't expect to do this again

@@m1chaelf4 Thanks for reply. I have heard of someone replacing the grease with gear oil. Intriguing, but I think the grease pack is probably ok. I haven't heard anyone complain about gearbox failure.

I'd like to do the same, but my quick look several months ago didn't reveal and drop-in replacements. Let me know where you find one. It shouldn't be too hard to disassemble to access it. Find the exploded diagram on the website of a parts dealer

At the bottom right of the youtube video window is a gear icon. You can change the playback speed in that configuration menu

The best way to figure it out is to find the exploded diagram on the website of a parts dealer

I used a 6/12v 10a automotive battery charger, and my anodes were concrete rebar that I used a wire wheel to remove some anti-corrosion coating. The only 'chemical' was washing soda. Google "electrolysis rust removal" for great writeups. I forget exactly which paint I used, but I went to Sherwin William's and got the. Est industrial enamel they offered. It was part if a system that has a special primer. If I was restoring this for sale, I would have paid for powdercoating, but since I restored this to use it, I dont mind the brushstrokes in the paint. (I also did this to determine whether I would consider doing it again on a larger tool. I e decided the answer is "yes", and I'm watching craigslist for a Bridgeport mill that needs some TLC.)l

Michael, thanks so much for the reply. I’ll try to upload some pre and post pictures once I get the battery charger and rust remover tank. I saw another video which used an old brake rotor as the sacrificial anode. I have 4 of these in my garage attic that I can use. I will spray a primer and enamel paint on a sample part and see if this meets my expectation. I am not planning to sell this vintage planer as long as it produces quality woodwork. BTW, the Hitachi F1000a unit I have uses 240vac. It was originally purchased in Japan. It has a separate 120vac to 240vac step up transformer. I happen to pick both up from a Japanese lady giving away her deceased husband’s workshop tools. No one wanted the planer because of it’s weight and condition. I think I may have stumbled on a diamond in the rough! Also, just inherited a Shopsmith Mark V that needs minor restoration too. This unit is in much better condition and will complement my other woodworking tools nicely. Good luck with the Bridgeport mill. Looks like a very cool tool!

Follow-up (04/19/19) - just finished with de-rusting and priming the parts with Rustoleum clean metal primer (tinted grey from my previous Shopsmith Mark V restoration project). After considerable research, I decided to order Hammerite Rust Cap 43175 1 Qt Mid Green Hammered Finish Enamel Paint for the top coat. Should be doing the top coat next month. I will brush the first coat and consider a light spray second coat. I am replacing the joiner and planer blade bearings (these were tight and felt rough). I also opened the motor gear box and lubricated the gears and bearings, but decided not replace these. Do you know what can be used for the bearing stop pins? Seems these parts are not available anywhere and the current bearing stop pin holes are filled with a soft material that may mount to the bearing outer race. I am thinking the bearing stop pins were not used last time the bearings were replaced and maybe a locktite mount material was used. The material has a red tint to it. Any ideas? Also, I'd like to replace the bellows for the dust boots on the bottom frame. The ones I have are the original and have a few holes in them. Any ideas on where I could find a bellows dust boot replacement material? Maybe a bulk bellows hose cut to fit? The front and back bellows are different diameters. I was a little apprehensive doing this level of restoration, but I have kept a digital picture archive and parts in separate store bins to assure I can reassemble properly per the parts assembly diagrams. Seems less daunting now that I am in this far into the project. Thanks for your encouragement!

After spending the time, I wish I had powdercoated it. I bought the best industrial paint, but it shows that i brushed it. Since I restored it to use it, that is a minor issue. It was a fun job. Most replacement parts are still available. When i was looking for a plane and jointer, I was avoiding combination machines, but this one is great since there is no changeover required to change operations!

Michael Finch this was one of the reasons I liked it as well. We picked ours up for about 350 with extra blades for both sides. I don't think I'm going to bother with repainting as much as I'm worried about all of the surface rust on the beds & pillars. Let me know if you wanna come restore another in Houston for the fun of it! 😂

@@Pryorfab Hi, I am in League City and have acquired the same f1000a planer. Starting my restoration project next week. if you're nearby maybe we could collaborate on the rebuild process?

Hi. Let me know if you want another Hitachi P100F Planer. I have a brand new one sitting in my garage. Used once.

I am about to put my F-1000A on the For Sale market. any suggestions of where I should advertise such a unique tool. Kijiji?

Lol. Electrolysis won't fix pitting, but does a great job on rust. Afterward, Boeshield T9 keeps rust away on my equipment and Renaissance Wax keeps them slick.

I purchased knives on Amazon. Hitachi 972011 12-Inch Planer Blade Set for P12RA Planer/Jointer www.amazon.com/dp/B0000223K0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_7S16zb78ZTF5G and Hitachi 879208 6-Inch High Speed Steel Jointer Planer Blade for the Hitachi F1000A Jointer, 1-Pair www.amazon.com/dp/B000BT1RCK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_IU16zbG3BDWB0