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That is the orientation it is printed in (in some of my videos you can see I don't even remove the supports). When you use Shape Cast, the parts are in that orientation already.

Interesting idea. I did that for a bit with my plate bucket - but it can get a tear that way so I stopped. And now, I much prefer my 3d printed molds!

I have not used them. I played around with 3D printing some, but they didn't work in the way I wanted. I'm still on the fence about having keys vs not having any - there are tradeoffs.

I'm not sure I understand your question. Here I add masons stain to get the color

Pottery plaster

@@PotterybyKent thanks brother

I have not. I havent dug into the impact the different chemistries have.

@@PotterybyKent Well I am now, will let you know how it went in 48 hours 😁

Sounds great!

@@PotterybyKent Black iron(3) oxide came out pinkish from electric kiln, experiment successfully failed.

Thanks for sharing!

Since these are @oldforgecreation's glazes I've been using a modified version of his

You're most welcome

Thanks and great!. TPU has been suggested but a lot of Shape Cast users can't print TPU so it hasn't been a high priority. I do want to revisit the flanges though. In line with the second, some people have also asked for an insert to go into the soft clay so it doesn't deform. Forms the right size for plaster mixing and displacement dip glazing also seem like possible accessories. But next up is more handles!

Happy to help and answer questions! It's basically the same answer as normal plastic clay used for throwing or hand building. It depends on your clay body. You can get low, medium or high fire casting slips. I use medium fire - Cone 5/6. The firing profile is impacted by your glaze as much as the clay body. So use a profile recommended by whoever makes your glaze. I use a fair number of @oldforgecreations glaze recipes and use the firing schedule similar to what he posted on glazy.

Send me a email. It sounds like the scale of your SVG is wrong (wrong units). The 3D files should not be scaled at all - they will not print correctly if you scale them,

@@PotterybyKent yes, scaling does not work … So I will send the files as soon as possible. Thank you very much Kent!

It is indeed!

@@PotterybyKent I printed the larger tumbler with the 1 piece outter shell, rather than printing 4 pieces. Is there a way to remove the 3d print from the plaster? I got the middle piece out with the ice water alcohol combo, but I'm wondering if it would work if I heated up the outter part. I'm thinking a towel soaked in hot water? I totally forgot to add Murphy's wash on the inside.

That is exactly why the outer mold is multiple pieces. In early development I ended up cutting them off. I doubt hot water would do too much. And mold release really isn't needed since this isn't a plaster on plaster pour.

I don't use resin based printers, but from what I understand they're actually washed in alcohol pre-curing so I'm guessing it is no issue. Otherwise I'd imagine it would do the same thing in terms of shrinking the part just a bit to help with release.

@@PotterybyKent Thank you for your answer. We are looking forward to your new videos. Good work.

Yes,I'd imagine it would degrade slower due to the strength. I haven't actually tested the difference but that might be an interesting thing to do. Do the molds dry out as well? I'm guessing that might be another impact of the denser plaster.

@@PotterybyKent possibly a little slower to try, but I haven't tried to really push them either - I do 1 casting a day usually, and they are ready to go the next day - Granted I'm working in an insulated Metal workshop in North Carolina heat (but also high humidity)

Good to know. Thanks for sharing!

Not without some issues. My video from this past weekend talks about this.

That's great to hear!

Thanks and good luck with your pieces!

Interesting idea (although it would take a big oven!) I have seen people place their molds in front of fans, and I have a small dehumidifier I run in the winter to help control ambient moisture.

Ask your local pottery supply store. Often they have firing services. Or check with a local pottery studio. And another option is to check out kilnshare.com where people will rent out their kilns.

@@PotterybyKentThank you!

@@PotterybyKent if I wanted to cast a mug that is very wide at the bottom then tapers a lot to the top, do to think that could be cast with the handle? Or in your experience would it be easier/ more reliable to cast the handle separately?

I have seen a few molds with integrated handles, but I think they can be problematic if not done right (and limit form options). By doing the handle separately you can avoid those issues.

It really is fun!

Glad you enjoyed it!

My slip is made by my local pottery shop, so sharing the details isn't all that useful. It's a cone 6 porcelain like clay body. I get it as a dry powder and mix it myself.

It's been working great, and by chance, I actually give a quick update on it in the video for tomorrow.

I'm using 90 water:100 dry I believe as he recommends. And make sure they are mixed well. Recently I've been playing with his flux glaze which has a lot more movement to it. It's more glazing steps, but I'm going to try it more.

@PotterybyKent that's what I did as well. All of them I tested except rutile have barely any color. I'm wondering if I should use less water or try a second dip. I will also pay extra attention to mixing them.

It could be water, but in that case the glaze overall would be thin, not just the colorant. I guess another possible thing to check is the percentage of colorants. This varies by oxide/stain, but doing tests from 1% up to as much as 10% might be useful (a line test here can be good). And then double checking your measurements too perhaps.

There's enough space to grab on without touching the plaster, but not a lot! I think there is some room for optimization here, but it is also good enough to make useful molds. I've had several other people successfully make them at this point which is always fun to see!

Mostly because I was curious if it was solid at that point. Draining probably isn't required, but when it is demolded it is nice not to have very wet slip dripping off the end. (And you can't wait too ling otherwise it is too dry).

Thanks! For me figuring it out, why it isn't working and what the real problems are to solve are very much part of what I enjoy. And I'm glad others like following along as well!

Yes cement and potter plaster are very different. Ask your local pottery supply store about plaster

@@PotterybyKent thanks for your response Kent we love what you are doing

The timing and "starting" has something to do with the kinetic energy imparted by mixing from what I've gathered. I'm not sure about the details. As far as releasing, as you'll see in follow up videos, you actually want something very cold (not hot) so the PLA shrinks just a bit.

Thanks. I have

Yes that's an online store/website platform. My needs are much more involved to use something like that

Yes they can be left bone dry for a long time. They're very fragile so easy to break but that's about all. You'd also probably want to keep the dust off but anything organic would burn off in the kiln

Also the relationship ended and the code seemed to last should be a Tshirt 😅😂😊

Thanks for following along in the journey!

5:18 I'm in the same growth bump with Jiu Jitsu. Community is great but nope. Not good enough and large enough to set up my own gym.. etc. I chose to get people close to me excited about how I do Jitsu and am making my own community. It is really rewarding

After finishing the video. I think your best shot is opening your own store 🎉 The main focus is selling your pots but also have a pott3ry class that sells items for people to help thier customs. Copy Sur Le Tables buisness platform . Im nobody though just an idea

Selling ceramics by itself (and associated classes) is likely an order of magnitude too small for my goals.

Thanks a lot. Yes Shape Cast is mine!

This is more or less my same story. I think a lot of viewers have background in what this channel is doing. We are all really interested on actually how far it can go. Always fun to watch the new discoveries on this channel 🎉

I'm also into 3D printing and 3D modelling. I'm using FreeCAD, which is completely open-source and has a strong embedded Python engine/API. I'm pretty sure FreeCAD has crossed your path too. When I saw Shape Cast for the first time, my mind immediately went into automation and implementation mode and I was brainstorming of how this could be done through FreeCAD using Python. I don't know how you implemented Shape Cast, but I'm intrigued. The sky is the limit!

The current version is actually a combination of inkscape and blender. However the handles I did using freecad and the rewrite I alluded to is using it as well. It has some quirks but so far it's been going ok

Sure thing!

You're welcome!

Thanks!

In general yes, but it depends on several factors. For any glaze, if you're concerned you should have it tested for your specific concerns.

It's tricky for sure!

Sure thing!

The printing time is faster than with Shape Cast but the precision is way less! haha

Cool! When I was making them several people were asking if they were pig mugs. Apparently those are a thing as well.

@@PotterybyKent lol ya I see the pigs also

Depends on your purpose. You can always get a bigger one but it was a great way for me to fire for a solid year

Thanks! It's always great to see how everyone interprets different pots

Thanks! I'm using a pla+ on my Bambu p1p. However it's not very particular as long as you can get decent prints

@@PotterybyKent nice! I’ve been using an x1c since January. Love it, had some weird hiccups but nothing too major. How’s the p1p?

I've really enjoyed it. Before that I had an original ender3 so it was a huge upgrade!

Thanks! It takes a fair bit of effort to learn but is fun

@@PotterybyKent thank you Kent! I can imagine. I love slipcasting, but there’s a bit of snobbery in the potter community in my area about it. It seems like if you don’t build something on the wheel, you’re not considered a “real potter”. But, I don’t have the ways or the means right now to do anything other than slipcasting and I find it fun. I’m learning a lot about how clay works and how to glaze things.

I ignore the people who don't think slip casting is real pottery 😝. They clearly haven't tried. One of the advantages of learning to throw after knowing slip casting is exactly that. That you already know how clay works, glazing, etc. It let's you really focus on just the new part

Thanks! Because the slip isn't absorbed into the 3d print. Pottery plaster does that and in turn forms the pot.

I have several videos on mixing up my slip.

I have seen (dry) beans mixed into throwing clay to leave cavities as they burn out. It's a very rough look! I think part of that is due to the amount the clay shrinks. I'm guessing the same issue would happen here - the clay still shrinks.

Yes, I do. You can sign up to Shape Cast to make your own 3d prints, or feel free to reach out if you'd like something else. shapecastmolds.com