Video

How is that Fixed , Weather still getting Oil Vapors in intake. Need to get it Outa Air Cleaner !

alm that talk and you don't say anything

horrible video

The simple fix is to learn not to overfill oil, that is what causes this issue to be bad.

I did the same thing on my 2010 dyna, though I ran the tubes off the vent bolts and T'ed them together under the filter, dropped thru the breather box about 2" and put one lawn mower fuel filter on it. The air exhausting is positive but Ive yet to see any oil at all. Works great.

I have a 2014 Road King. There was an easy modification I did to mimic your results. My oil level is 1/2 full (on the stand) and has no bubbles in it any more. Thanks for taking the time to make that video. Very helpful.

I've got a '15 Fiesta with same engine and 48km's on the clock ( 30k miles) from new. Does it need replacing in spite of the low mileage but it's 10 year birthday is looming ? Good video.

So many fixes for stock harleys, seems stupid to buy expensive bike that has changed so little over the decades that still has so many factory flaws. Somple gix is buy a well engineered bike to start with, so buy japanese and avoid spending time and money fixing factory flawed crap

I wonder how much it rattles inside the air cleaner.water vapour means you aren’t doing long enough rides to disperse the condensation inside the cases .

I have a 1998 Chrysler Grand Voyager minivan 3.3 liter V6 engine. Where is the bleeder valve located on that vehicle?

Why the f#ck they use belts and oil covering it, the designer was probably high on meth

What is the best resource for this procedure?

Great vid yet ... Able to keep on eye on it, thanks.

Thanks! It helped to solve stucked button!

All good except the dip in the lines. Keep it running downhill. Filters are not necessary.

Are you still using this setup?

just change out the umbrella valve in the top valve cover or you put it on the wrong side which can happen..

Thanks for saving me $80-100 on one of those online kits! I have that stuff laying around in my garage.

If your bike is puking oil out of the air filter, before you do anything else, check your oil level. Even slight overfilling can cause this.

Sir, What you have here done is self defeating!.. As you said steam/ water vapor, bad air and oil comming out your breather ports.. ( Which in reality is sludge) Why in the hell are you still keeping it in the air box??? You need to tee your clear lines and run them the heck out of the air box out and away from the intake period!!!!. Now either use a catch can or run the hose out on the ground.. Which i could give a crap about since more cars and semi trucks dump more fuel and oil on the roads for the last 100 years than i ever could.. I digress.. Next, all your doing is still recycling all the above steam/water vapor, bad air and oil (sludge) back into your engine via through your air cleaner now plugging that up faster!.. Last your clear hoses are routed back upwards instead of draining down and also not utilizing gravity!. So if you get a lot of oil comming out, it will fill the bottom loop of your hoses creating a block or partial plug that the more/ additional expended steam/water vapor, bad air and oil (Sludge) that keeps on comming, must over come or to push through to try to vent!. Thus Backing up your breather system!!. Basically you've made a reservoir at the bottom of those hoses.. So as the crankcase pressure builds up high enough, It will blow/puke a big built up blob of all that crap all over the top of your air cleaner then start to choke the engine of air!.

I was curious how this modification working out for your motorcycle? I’m interested in doing something similar but I’m real hesitant on modifying the back of my stock air cleaner. This is why I’m intrigued with your modification. Instead of running 2 lines I’m going to run a 2 into 1 system and have it cool and dump into one tube and lawnmower fuel filter like you did.

As a theory, the oil level argument seems unlikely. On the dip stick, a level change from 1/4 to 1/2 would equate to 250ml (?). But then spread that out over the surface are of the oil pan and that changes the depth 1/16in (?). Then add in oil movement while the bike is moving, and I don't see how that can make a difference. Therefore, oil level is not a factor in my eyes. The discussion should be around how the oil gets into the head area in the first place, which is why it requires draining. Otherwise, I really like the method you created.

So, it's worth it to do this if we don't have money for the repair or just a thing harley users do eventually because the parts are just hard to get?? Also... Would it be possible to get a one way valve and use that instead of those fuel filters?

An S&S crankcase breather will take care of the problem, instead of running hoses and catch cans etc. No one needs all that extra crap on their bike.

I have a 103. Running into a oil catch bottle and then back into the back of the filter. My theory is the bottle works like a sediment bowl like on a old fuel system. Air returns to the engine without the oil. Most of the oil stays in the bottle. However it needs to be checked so I doesn’t overflow and make a mess. I haven’t tried it yet just waiting for the snow to go away 🥺

Did you make a vid with a newer bike or one of your fan base get a code? Might need a little guidance on how to close the loop. Does that mean eliminating the cooling system you just installed?

Brings back memories from 4 months ago when our belt failed at 74,000. It stripped all the teeth of the belt was not caused by the belt failing but the tensioner spring broke so the belt lost tension. Its a poor design.

Can you just vent the oil cap?

6F15 Transmission used ULV not LV fluid.

Great help, Thanks! (I didn't have any air, but some dishwashing detergent squirted around the button and up in the hole from the bottom helped loosen things up enough to work the slider free.)

Good job George! better to check it. I have a question, when you extract the plastic cover, did you reuse the gaskets? Is difficult to reuse it and assembly all together? thanks

....run an oil catch can...bigger the better...when its full...just tip the oil back into your oil tank....problem solved.

Maybe adding pcv valves and mini oil separator cans that drain back into the crankcase might help?

Great idea!

Check oil after a 20 minute ride. Don't let it idle n think that's operating temp. It must be ridden. Check out John Maxwell video on oil. You can drain oil into a measured container to see how much oil is in tank but it could be overfilled. If it's correct then refill with same amount or purge the whole system . Delboys Garage has a video on purging.

Are you still running this set up? Have you made any additional modifications? Is it working out for you?

Just asking for trouble if you don't keep oil level at full levels on any engine.

I did this a couple weeks ago and I'm gettin' better gas mileage ...however, it sounds like it's running a little rough or dry? So, i'm thinking on what you said about "air temp" in the breather ( i ran my hose straight to the ground! )

What remote oil pressure gauge are you using? And when you plumbed it into the case, were you running the long oil sender?

My solution was I sold both my twin cams and bought a Evo.

Do you know the proper way to chuck the level?

On my 2014 103 street glide I run on the low side of my dipstick about 1/3 up. Runs better this way. Never have an issue with oil in my intake. I also run a fueling vented dipstick. I don’t let Harley do my oil changes anymore. Fired them years ago I handle that myself. Harley just drains and throws 4 quarts in the crank case and a new filter And they send you on your way. My oil level was at the top of the dipstick past the fill mark every time they did it no matter which mechanic did it. Regarding oil in your intake. If was still having an issue after doing all I did I would just run a DK catch can.

I Run 2-3 Marks Down From Full! Stops Most Oil On Air Cleaner ! Stage 1

Crap design

WSS-M2C948-B, other oils ruins timing belt and oil pump belt. Then derbies of belts clock oil pump screen -> no oil pressure -> new engine.

My 98 FLSTF has the same issue just not as bad as my two twin cams had. I sold both twin cams I'm down to my 72 FLH and the 98 Fatboyno more computerized bikes for me.

You should run the lines into the transmission pan and then the oil will go back into the oil your way sucks

don't mind all that emission control of the nearby future. Reminds me of the meatball on top of spegitte when someone sneezed. ha haha 🐱😆

If your oil tank is full or empty your oil pumps still pumps the same amount of oil into the motor , running it low will cause your oil temp to be higher .... DO NOT listen to this !!!

Figured it out a couple of days ago - they don’t like coarse sand - I used light taps with a camping mallet once I had undone the small screw. The chinook covers three sides of the pin, making it very secure, but also leaving just one spot for sand to go: into the spring mechanism space. None of my other extensions (Naish - Radz) ever caused me any issues like this - I’m glad I have the fix, but it’s still an annoying byproduct of a secure fit.