Video

Hi Great video. What's the model of rasperry PI DIN mount you used? There is a heatsink?

Thanks for the visual guide, its hard for me to follow written guides so your videos are always helping me, thanks! I assembled the TD-1 but it gives me the wrong hex colour codes, its not even close. For purple some times it gives me blue or green, for light grey and black it gives me a green hex. Not sure what to do with it now but the TD value is at least 0.1 consistent.

Thanks for the guide! I tried to follow the PDF but watching it done is so much easier for me.

Oh no! The JJRobots Scara Arm appears to no longer be active (as of August 2024). I hope that it will return some day. But if it doesn't, I've created a repository that I hope can be helpful for anyone looking for information on this project. github.com/techyg/Pybot/tree/main

Absolutely awesome video! Do you know where I could find the STL for those belt clips?

@Greg, Landed on this when looking for a SCARA robot arm project to teach to high school robotics club- 4 years after your post! Love your detailed videos on putting this together. I was able to find the pybot 3d printed files, the parts also look straight forward. But for the Software - Jjrobots seems defunct now - the website is not active anymore. Any chance you still have and can share the open source code (both the Arduino code and the Control APP/Python code)? Thanks in advance!

Octoprint+Klipper Shutdown Enable the shutdown action command and then add this to config: [respond] default_type: command # Sets the default prefix of the "M118" and "RESPOND" output to one # of the following: # echo: "echo: " (This is the default) # command: "// " # error: "!! " [menu __main __poweroff] type: command enable: {(not printer.idle_timeout.state == "Printing")} name: Shutdown gcode: M117 Shutdown_RPI M118 action:shutdown { menu.exit() }

No videos in a few months and website hasn't had an update since February. Hope all is well.

are you still happy with the vzbot? Would you prefer it over a Voron 2.4?

Interesting thing I cant seem to get the delta options to show up at all :/

Old vid, but a quick jumper tip, there's a recess at the top of jumpers where you can see the connecting wire. Hook your tweezers (or use the head of a pin as a hook) under that wire and pull straight up. Keeps the casing from getting messed up!

These are sold out EVERYWHERE. Both the kits and the units themselves.

Can you do a video on replacing the bottom half of the xy joints?

I'm not too clear why you would want to attach all four screws on the Z Axis Motor Mount before taking it back apart to put the backlash nut on. Can't I just put the backlash nut on the first time I put it into the Bed Mount?

Nice, thank you. What’s the biggest bed size? Can you do a 350mm or 500mm?

I'm about to start my LDO Voron 0.2-S1 Kit and found you via the Kirigami Video. Binging this whole playlist as I prepare to build mine. Thanks for these videos!!

What software would you recommend to a beginner? (like me)

Well, this display menu settings are working out a LOT better than I thought - easy bed calibration, and now I have perfect layers all the time. This guy should have millions of subscribers rather than a few thousands - he's thorough, helpful, and has a good vibe.

THANK YOU! This is extremely useful and helpful. By the way, is it possible to manage the network interface through the V0-display, that is to show the IP of the current network, show different networks, connect to a chosen network, or even input a password for the network?

Regarding the magnetic surface - I just realized that you can screw in the screws into the bed and then apply the magnetic sticker on top of them to avoid having to cut holes inside

10:06 I think the back motor tension knob suppose to against the back panel to work.

Hey greg,its Gabe

I wasnt able to find anywhere which motors are X/X1/Y/Y1...Any advice how do I determine that? Thanks

i can not for the life of me find the stl for the DIN mount that holds 3 wagos, can only find ones that hold 2, mind sharing it or at least mentioning what website its from?

I have tried to print the big hepa holder in ASA on Bambu X1C and it has warped on me twice :S

Hey Mr. Greg, I ordered this project and it came with no manual/code. The company JJRobots is out of business and they've shut down their page. I've searched the whole internet for the code to this project with no luck. I have to present this tomorrow at school. Do you still have the Arduino code, saved somewhere?

I see you have 4 pin on/off switch...I got 3 pin in my kit. Not a big deal but 4 pin is more convenient.

What LED must one get, I used the link on the BOM list and it selects RGB+Natural White on Amazon that correct?

Just picked up an LDO Trident Kit (Rev C).. going to start building it soon.

Amigo onde encontro o arquivo stl que vai parafusado no trilho linear?

My only experience is building MK4:). No experience apart from that whatsoever. However, I always assembled my PCs myself and I learned from scratch to service everything (including engine complete overhaul and tuning suspension) on my motorbike. Anyway - my journey was from MK4 (ditched that as soon as I learned more about the physical principles and limitations of bed swing design) to Bambu X1C, which is a fantastic printer. However I fell in love with mellow 330 kit on the first sight and ordered it with all the stuff for watercooling setup. It will be an awesome high format and high speed addition to my X1C. Im in for a few weeks of steep learning curve:D

I would like to see the frequency response graph on these. DankPods had a sound sample on it, and the bass seemed like it was bloated and might bleed into the mids. I am no sound engineer, but I have been buying ridiculously expensive headphones and lurking in mod forums for at least a decade. I am about to build the Alpha Dog mod by Mr. Speakers (Aka Dan Clark). From what I heard in that sound sample, it NEEDS a bass port, and some dampening behind the cups. The way Mr. Speakers did the bass was with a slot that was blocked with a screw that could be adjusted to tune it to your liking. The dampening foam prevents reverberation and can stabilize some of the noise by canceling the sound reflecting off the cups. Also adhesive dampening foam will strengthen the side walls and prevent reverberation. If you want to see exactly how he did it look up Alpha Dogs Mr. Speakers. He sold those headphones for years for a a lot of money. They were modded Fostex T50RP headphones. He now works under his actual name. Dan Clark Audio makes the absolute best closed back headphones in existence in my opinion. I promise, I do not work for him. I just bought his DCA (Dan Clark Audio) Aeon 2 Noire headphones, I also have his Aeon open X headphones. Experiment, tune these and have fun!!!

Where'd you get the tool at 15:01?

Great video Greg. Glad you enjoyed the build. If you don’t mind, I’d love to post this on my site as a supplement to my guide?

Great video, mate. Thanks. Now all I need is to get my hands on a kit.

What slicer allows those brim circles to hold down print?

Hey Greg it is not working anymore with new Klipper Version. Where do I get a working fw for the adxl sensor?

For some reason my kit came with a umbilical and no instructions. So I'm here, but this aint it.

I appear to be following your path. This is my next printer build. I was going to self-source but having seen your video - I'll be buying the kit.

Thanks for the video Greg! My kit from West 3D will arrive today!

Thanks you so much for this video! There were some details missing in the kirigami instructions I had plus my LDO kit didn;t have quite the right base plate cut outs for the version of kirigami that shipped. Your video helped me work it out :)

Thank you for this video

I was looking at which kit to get, awesome! Looking forward to watching the build video(s).

If I left nylon in there on 70c for about the same about of time you did or more? do you think that would be enough? I’m not really worried about speed and I have one of those zip up enclosures

The Micron+ has become my favorite Voron. If the Voron 0 is the 80% printer in the sense that 80% of the stuff you print fits in its build volume, the Micron+, at least for me, is the 95% printer. Most of the stuff I print fits in there and it can basically do everything, my V2.4 or Trident can, while retaining the advantages of the V0 for me: It heats up much quicker than the big printers and is compact enough I can move it around without much effort. You've allready planned for the G2Z mod, do the printed parts you ordered also cover the new R1 gantry, or are you still building the old stock one? And if so: Does the kit come with toothed idlers for the XY joints, or bearings for classic bearing stacks?

looks great! looking forward to watching the build come together! Leviathan is a great option for Micron ive been running an old beta of the Leviathan in my Micron for over a year now its great

SUPER excited for this one!! been looking at the same kit

Nice to see you in another unboxing and build series. Looking forward to seeing this. Looks like a great kit and totally agree a smaller V2 is just cool

Good luck! I have been pondering Micron+, but I’m also starting to seriously consider a Trident-based 180mm printer, instead. I’m kinda feeling like the flying gantry might be complexity in a direction that doesn’t speak to me.

Is that a 48v psu?