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I just received my new ET-8550. Where can I get the custom black and white profiles you mentioned? Thanks for a great post. I appreciate the info you discussed.

I use Epson's P700 and have no gripes about it. as it is such an improvement over the P600 I used previously. Fotospeed papers don't seem to be widely available in New Zealand, but I must follow up on them as I have used Ilford (semi) gloss baryta for some time and it gives very fine results. There were problems in sourcing the inks during Covid years but that has improved since, I'm pleased to say. I generally avoid using the Carbon Black setting as it empties the light gray cartridge too quickly, though I'd use it for special prints where the Carbon Black does enhance the depth of the blacks.

Great video, did you manage to pull anything together regarding hands on with the new printers

Excellent interview/chat. Look forward to the next one.

The rollers leave marks in prints, like literal indents in the paper that can’t be removed. Had the printer for a week and it just kept getting worse.

Is it possible to get similar or equal results in black and white with the Epson et 8550?🤔

CAN THIS PRINTER PRINTE ON POLYESTRER PLASTIC ?

So helpful thank you!

Hi Tim - Do you have any stockists of your papers in South Africa? Really battling to track down decent materials especially at A2 or rolls. Thanks in advance

I have a epson et-3760 eco tank . If I use the calibration software for the screen do I need to do anything for the printer, or does it know what kind of printer that I have?

gee, mr smart, your first sample was very poor horrible quality print...

Oh...I finally ordered a P1000 last week. ugh! I haven't gotten it yet. Do I return it and wait???

I find the P5000 to be the best printer I have experienced for b&w, by far. B&W is all I do (if a friend needs a color I do it to keep the jets working). Use b&w mode always. Three frustrations: color ink lost very gradually through startup cleaning and the fact that the damn thing will NOT remember settings worth a crap - and will NOT save settings, and the stupid default "darker" setting (ok, I use "dark" so I would have to reset it anyway even if it was on normal). But the results are phenomenal..

been using moab silver metallic. Does anyone have a comparison as that is no longer available?

It's always a pleasure listening to Rachael talk about her photography and really exciting to learn that she has new work on the way. If only I could afford one of those gallery copies of Sirens! Excellent interview.

It's always a pleasure listening to Rachael talk about her photography. What a great guest and exciting to learn a little bit about her new work. If only I had a few quid stashed away for one of those gallery editions of Sirens!

Boring

Brilliant interview with Rachel. Really interesting to hear about her photography journey.

Excellent

Superb interview!

Great video it is always interesting to hear Rachael talk about her work and some of her thought processes behind her photography.

Thanks for the interview and thanks to Rachael for such a wonderful informative talk

just returned home from watching the tides going in and out in the Duddon Estuary...... brilliant photography/evening followed by a brilliant interview. cheers.

I'm a hobby photographer and only plan on printing a couple large prints per month, for some wall prints in my home. I'm hearing the Epson tank 8550 printers tend to clog a lot, and are more 'volume printers'. I'm considering the Canon Pro200. What printer would you recommend?

Very nice video today with Racheal really enjoyed watching it, had the pleasure of going to one of Racheal's talks in Bolton few years ago, such a pleasure to see her prints

If you want to see a noticeable difference on the synthetic dye ink (Claria Premium, Chromalife 100+, Innobella), it would take around 4 years. Edit: If you protect the photos (like framing) it would take longer to see degradation.

The bottom line is that the Canon runs more cleaning cycles as this is part of the self maintanance that the printer is designed to run, this is also more of a requirement of the thermal print head design on Canons (vs Epson which uses a non thermal design that they have patented). This is a big part of the reason why the Canon's use more ink. This becomes even more of an issue if you don't use the printer over longer periods.

How do you get custom profiles

I have been communicating with your team via email for over a week to resolve the issues I am having with two printers, and I have yet to receive any solution. It is absurd that a company like Epson employs such unprofessional staff who seem indifferent to resolving customer issues. As a small business, it is extremely frustrating to be in this situation because Epson fails to address these problems promptly. This has caused me to disappoint my own customers, all because of Epson's lack of competent employees who do not care about the small businesses that contribute to making Epson a successful company. I do not understand why there is no phone number to handle urgent issues like this. You used to have one, and the service was excellent. I urgently need a resolution to this matter.

I get that for some people a sharp image is the most important thing For me the beauty of an image is its imperfections. An over sharpened digital image is for me one of the worst things that could happen to an image Give me a soft image with great lighting and composition over a tack sharp boring image any day Been photographing weddings for 21 years and for the last 4 years not used any sharpening at all and they all print very well.

With great appreciation of this and other videos, and the amazing and affordable quality, that is now available, I have to disagree: The "closest one can get to a darkroom print, , still is, making a darkroom print. ;-)

thank you

I ordered this printer and from what I could take from a lot of youtubers watched and articles read, is that there is a so much headroom from improvement. The right ICC-profiles, paper choice and the mood to spend some time perfecting the settings and testing it can really bring the prints to Canon prograf P-1000 and Epson Surecolor printers which cost 2 - 5x more than the 8550. Minus the archiveability ofc. Unfortunately Epson doesn'T tell uss, in which mode how much pigment black ink is used. I think with that knowledge, profiel optimisation could return even better results.

Great video!

Like the other 2 mentioned, in PS he resized the long side to 400, and it still showed Centimeters. 400 Centimeter image would fit on your table. So, what was the thinking on 400, and does it technically become a moot point, size the paper size was way smaller and PS, or driver, downsized it? You should clarify this point.

Tim, did he not make the image considerably larger rather than smaller? Check the pixel dimensions and file size shown after his resizing?

Don't you blow up the image massively, if you change the image size from 67 to 400 centimeters? Nevertheless, I got the point: resize before sharpen. Thanks for that clear message!

Thanks. For those of us who eschew LR/PS in favor of PhotoLab (7 Elite) for RAW processing and print from Epson Print Layout (to a P900 with various types of archival paper), how would that affect workflow, especially with regard to re-sizing to fit the paper with appropriate margins for matting? Would I simply process the image to get the look I want, then simply export from PL to Nik, then to a folder from which I'd open it in Print Layout? Also, what about using Unsharp Mask in PL in addition to/instead of Nik Sharpener and Presharpener vs Output Sharpener (weirdly, the latter appears as "Sharpener Output" on the Export menu)? Also, please pass along to DxO that, as a long-time DxO user (and promoter!), on behalf of the user community, it would really be appreciated if the upgrades were less costly. Not only should you better reward loyalty, you'd get a lot less skipping/delaying of upgrades as the incremental upgrades don't represent good enough value to many users to justify the prices (and DeepPRIME XD2 should've been added to PL7 as it would be ridiculous to also get PureRaw just for that feature). Thanks for your consideration!

Hello Tim, I've just found your channel, and I'm happy of that, I find finally all the explanations I needed. So I subscribed. Just a question, however. My screen is calibrated with a Spyder X Pro, which is a very good device. I use a Canon G550 printer I've just bought, and Lightroom to adjust my photos (black and white only). If I have correctly understood your explanations, when I calibrate the screen, it permits me to see the pictures on it, following the standard chart. The printer has inside the standard chart too. So why does Lightroom proposes me the two profiles, screen and printer, in the color management of printing? Which should I choose? Shouldn't they be the same, the standard one? I hope for your answer and send you my best greetings from France. Thierry.

My iP8750 produces stunning black and white prints. I eventually found the “right” paper; used the Fujifilm Acros film simulation (plus my own recipe); did a little post work and voila! All printers have some forms of limitation. Camera sensor; lens quality; post software; quality paper and dedicated inks all influence the final product. There is also the aspect of subjectivity when judging the final print. People tend not to scrutinise a photo in terms of the media used to produce it: rather the subject being observed.

Just been doing a project for a local shop they wanted of some of the old painted buildings/ doors and windows. After watching this I decided to give the torchon ago as it seemed what I was looking for. I must say by joe it doesn't half do this style of picture justice, The texture melts into the old paints and gives the impression of being a painting as a few have already asked me if I had painted the pictures..

Hello, right now I'm struggling to find a printer that is good enough to print stickers at home and sell without them fading away.What is your best recommendation? Thank you!!

what software came with the computer?

What you should have done is weigh the paper before and after printing to see how much ink is actually on the page.

I don't think I'll be upgrading from my Pro 1000 because to be honest the longer lasting ink won't matter i'll be long dead and also the scratch resistance doesn't matter to be I print and frame all my prints for myself and clients.

No matter what level of experience your photography is at, I think there is always something to learn from Alex. 🙂

Lovely tutorial, thank you! Can you use mixed media on the Hahnemuehle paper? I'd like to layer oil paints over the cyanotype. Also, how color fast is the print after toning with a tannin solution? Thanks!

Just got your channel recommended by the algorithm. Learning so much looking at these older videos. Congrats on a great channel

Yeah--curation is hard! For me, it's the most challenging aspect of photography, and it changes depending on the context. Compiling a book is different from determining which images to display in a show (and how to arrange them). With the latter, print size, orientation, and aspect ratio are even more important, as you have more flexibility (plus lighting is a major concern that can affect printing). Always check the space before producing a bunch of prints that may be too dark, light, or on the wrong paper (plus glass vs. no glass and matting/framing options). As I'm dealing with both of these issues, it's always good to get additional perspectives, so thanks for taking the time to share your insights. In any case, I totally agree that you need actual prints to effectively see how they interact--you just can't do that as well onscreen. BtW, I also try to avoid having diagonals hitting the corners--too contrived!

A great conversation, thank you both.