- 148
- 998 610
Moroso Performance
United States
Registrace 15. 01. 2009
Moroso Performance Products is one of the worlds most respected manufacturers of automotive equipment for racing and street performance applications. www.moroso.com
Dry Sump Pressure Sections EXPLAINED
IN this video, Scott and Doug go over some details on our Tri-Lobe dry sump line, and get into pressure section sizing, along with things we need to know to help you select a pump for your build.
zhlédnutí: 275
Video
LEAK DOWN TESTERS!
zhlédnutí 1,5KPřed 2 měsíci
In this video, Scott goes over our 89603 Leakdown tester. www.moroso.com/cylinder-leak-down-tester89603/
SMALL BLOCK CHEVY AND BIG BLOCK CHEVY DISTRIBUTORS (correct height + things to keep in mind)#moroso
zhlédnutí 156Před 3 měsíci
Scott goes over some things to keep in mind when installing your adjustable height distributor, on chevy small and big blocks. Also some things to keep in mind when ordering the correct oil pump driveshaft, and how deck height doesn't matter, but cam height does!
COOLANT TANKS #moroso #mustang #s550mustang
zhlédnutí 63Před 4 měsíci
63806 Aluminum Coolant tanks for S550 Mustangs. Swap out your plastic tank for this fully fabricated part, made from 3003 sheet metal, 6061 for all the billet pieces, and TIG welded in house. 💻www.Moroso.com 📱 (203) 453-6571 📧 Sales@moroso.com Techhelp@moroso.com
DRAG RACE SPRINGS (EXPLAINED) #moroso #dragracing
zhlédnutí 657Před 4 měsíci
DRAG RACE SPRINGS (EXPLAINED) #moroso #dragracing
CAR TOUR (episode 1) #cartour #carbuild
zhlédnutí 350Před 9 měsíci
CAR TOUR (episode 1) #cartour #carbuild
TEMP VS FLOW FOLLOW UP (we answer your tech questions)
zhlédnutí 328Před rokem
TEMP VS FLOW FOLLOW UP (we answer your tech questions)
AN hardline adapters and how to install them!
zhlédnutí 2,2KPřed rokem
AN hardline adapters and how to install them!
AIR OIL SEPARATORS for 2014 to 2018 Chevy and GMC Trucks (LT ENGINES)
zhlédnutí 306Před rokem
AIR OIL SEPARATORS for 2014 to 2018 Chevy and GMC Trucks (LT ENGINES)
Moroso Performance Oil Pump Stand(OIL TEMP VS FLOW)
zhlédnutí 3,2KPřed rokem
Moroso Performance Oil Pump Stand(OIL TEMP VS FLOW)
How To Install and Adjust Universal Dipsticks
zhlédnutí 9KPřed 2 lety
How To Install and Adjust Universal Dipsticks
New 63871 Coolant Expansion Tank for Subaru WRX/STI 2008-2020
zhlédnutí 465Před 3 lety
New 63871 Coolant Expansion Tank for Subaru WRX/STI 2008-2020
Moroso Performance Products featured on Horsepower Wars!
zhlédnutí 567Před 3 lety
Moroso Performance Products featured on Horsepower Wars!
Moroso Performance Vacuum Pumps: Mounting and plumbing help
zhlédnutí 31KPřed 4 lety
Moroso Performance Vacuum Pumps: Mounting and plumbing help
Megan Meyer on Moroso Performance Products
zhlédnutí 800Před 5 lety
Megan Meyer on Moroso Performance Products
Moroso's Billet LS to SBC Valve Cover Adapter
zhlédnutí 4,9KPřed 5 lety
Moroso's Billet LS to SBC Valve Cover Adapter
Testing ignition wire at Lime Rock Park in our Viper ACR.
zhlédnutí 293Před 5 lety
Testing ignition wire at Lime Rock Park in our Viper ACR.
Hi Scott, outstanding video! I am a 64 year old retired ASE Master Certified Automobile Technician and a High Performance Automobile owner. I have used other cylinder leak down tester(s) from other professional tool brand(s), and I also own one. Your Moroso Performance Cylinder Leak Down Tester that you are marketing at this time is a tester that I closely recognize to a Sun Engine Performance Analyzer, back in the 1970s to the early 1980s produced by Sun Electric, located on the west coast. I would recommend that before you proceed with the cylinder leak down tester, set the incoming air pressure regulator to exactly 100 PSI, so it will be easer to calculate the percentage of cylinder pressure leakage. Be sure to disconnect the low voltage connections that power the ignition system (for less chance of damage to the ignition coil or module) and remove all the spark plugs and listen for air at the adjacent cylinders (spark plug holes). Be sure to remove the radiator cap to check for bubbles in the cooling system, remove the oil filler cap as well as the crankcase breather to listen for air, open the fuel system throttle plates to listen for air, and listen for air coming from the exhaust. When performing the step by step cylinder leak down test, it might be ideal to perform the first test on the engine with an overnight cold. After that, the second test would be when the engine is at normal operating tempter, after driving it for at least one hour. And maybe a third test when the engine is good and hot, after a high speed run, on a hot summer afternoon for an hour or so. This will raise accuracy in regards to evaluating the condition of the engine. Performing the test(s) on a hot engine can be very discomforting in regards to touching the hot engine, so I suggest applying anti seize compound to the sparkplug threads, and apply dielectric silicone grease to the sparkplug wire boots, before you even begin. They also market hot engine work gloves and high heat arm sleeves. Last but not least, when performing the test, use the engines firing order as a sequential step by step work order, this will save you time and frustration. Please like and comment! Dave...
Dave! Thanks so much for watching and taking the time to add in some AWESOME info. I'll pass this along to Scott this morning! Have a great day, and again, thanks for tuning in. We appreciate it. -Ray
@@MorosoPerformance Hi Scott, thank you for your support. I edited my comment and added a supplement because I left something important out by mistake. The supplement is as follows; Be sure to disconnect the low voltage connections that power the ignition system (for less chance of damage to the ignition coil or module) and remove all the spark plugs and listen for air at the adjacent cylinders (spark plug holes).
There is a least one video here on CZcams with a gentleman with a turbo car running one, that’s why I ask.
Can this be used on a turbo setup ? Drag motorcycle?
You wouldn't be able to use these on a turbo application, unfortunately.
Can I leave it on over night in the winter? Maybe for a week leaving it on. 25 degrees outside. On my 4 quarts truck oil pan. Or like 1 hour before starting my truck?
Hello! These pads are definitely not meant for long term usage like that. It's really meant for race car applications, where you're trying to keep some heat in the engine in between rounds. We really don't recommend using it outside of those parameters.
Very good video. Why no comments after a year? 🤔
So i bought a cobra tek chrome oil pan off amazon for a 1pc rear main seal with a fel pro 34500 gasket, i have a stock timing cover and my pan leaks from the front seal, will there be any issues with this pan and gasket from moroso if i wanna keep my stock front seal or will i have to change that to get a perfect seal?
Our pans and gaskets are based on a THICK front seal, much like the 34500 gasket. So if you have that style timing cover, which I'm pretty sure you do, I don't see there being any issues. Unless this is a freshly built engine, and still needs to break in. On a fresh build you can have some blow-by, but that leak will typically be at the back.
Hot spot will short the pad out! Sounds like a reason to pass....
That's why we stress that you must make sure that the pad and pan/tank are touching completely. You only get hot spots when there is an air gap.
What would you recomend for a 355 performance block
Depends on what you're trying to do with the engine, and what car it's going into. Most core based, 8.250" deep pans will fit just fine in MOST cars. If you need help and have some time, give us a call directly, and we can figure out the best option for you! (203) 453 - 6571, ask for the tech dept. We're in the office 8:15 to 5:00 mon thru friday EST.
@MorosoPerformance alright I most definitely will, and the car is a 87 firebird and I'm not trying to race the car but it will have power behind it
@@Tristian-rb3fg Oh yeah, that should be super easy. Jim, Chance, or Doug can help you out. No problem.
@@MorosoPerformance alright
So what you're saying is it won't fix the hole in the block from "let's go for 2 more degrees of advance" 😅
That's my boy nice work, brother
Great video..... Thx for sharing...
Thanks for watching!
What's the intent of the spiral design? Does that increase flow?
great video Scott!
Glad you enjoyed it!!
A tool every mechanic should have, but few actually use it.
Exactly! Thanks for tuning in!
Bad ass work sir!🇺🇸🏁🏴☠️
Thank you kindly! I let Mike know what you said!
I’ve got the Moroso Expansion Tank for my E90 BMW. Build quality is amazing. It’s been on for over two years with zero issues. I love the sight glass that lets you visually see how much coolant there is without removing the cap.
Yes! Love to hear it! We try our hardest to put out the best products, made right here in Guilford CT!
Damn, those are some nice welds.
Thank you!
What do you do with a push rod if you block off the fuel pump
Can the enhanced bracket be mounted at the front?
The enhanced brackets are pretty versatile. They're designed to be mounted to either head on a small or big block chevy, but can also be run on a motor plate. As far as "at the front", what exactly were you looking into? Also, if you need to chat, give us a call directly and ask for tech!
" a raised camshaft will take a raises cam" Typical Moro-so-so
Yup. So just as an example with part numbers, a standard cam location big block would take the stock height oil pump drive shaft, part number 22080. If you were running an after market raised cam location block, those are .400" taller, so you would use 22082 drive shaft. 22080 www.moroso.com/oil-pump-shaft22080/ 22082 www.moroso.com/oil-pump-shaft22082/
Great video
Thank you!
Another bad idea. Lol
Is the bottom section of the oil pan for sale?
We can repair upper or lower sections of an existing pan, but we don't sell them separately.
Can u explain how the routing works from the new pickup and goes to the remote filter back into the engine?
With this pan, since it's designed for a single stage external pump, theres a little bit of plumbing involved. But it's a fairly easy setup. Basically every "out", has to go to an "in". In this case, it would be OUT from the pan to the IN on the pump, then OUT from the pump to the IN on your filter mount, and then finally the OUT on your filter mount to the IN on the block. The IN on the block is usually done by using some type of plate or adapter where the filter would mount from the factory. Our number for that is 23820 www.moroso.com/oil-filter-block-off-plate23820/ If you need any more help, please feel free to reach out to us by email our call us direct. We're in the office 8:15 to 5:00 Monday through Friday EST. (203) 453-6571 ask for TECH or TECHHELP@MOROSO.COM
@@MorosoPerformancedoes this pan have a drain plug?
@@C0rvette454 yes! It has an o-ring drain plug.
Unfortunately it seems like the quality of these has gone down quite a bit. I have an old set of these shocks on the rear of my car. I bought a new pair for the front to match but they won't click or nothing. Theyre not even the same. Bummer
KJ, Sorry for the inconvenience. What could be happening is that when you're making the adjustments, the shock isn't completely bottomed out. When this happens, the adjuster for the valve won't make contact with the shock body, so while turning the shock, no adjustment is being made. It's really easy for the shock to slightly creep upward. So make sure it's fully compressed. The other thing that could be happening, is the adjuster may be a little tight, and needs to be broken in. Breaking it in just involves cycling and turning the adjuster until you start to hear and feel the clicks. If you're still having an issue, please reach out to our tech and sales department! We're in the office 8:15 to 5:00 Mon-Friday EST and would love to help you out!
@@MorosoPerformance I understand what you're saying but that's not it. There's a clear distinction between the old and new parts I have. czcams.com/video/ZX3EbWKC2_Q/video.htmlsi=vc2dAUmJ8hjgo3Uk
This has to fo with ignition and tomong I believe. Was trying to find a particular sensor on a Jeep Grand Cherokee, and found a similar part that had that worm gear on the bottom.
I would call it a Oil Pump Drive.
I made one of those by cutting the top off a stock distributor and welding it shut. Set up a 351c with coil on plug
Sweet! How'd it come out??? Is it still going strong?? Ton's of respect for DIY. It's nice to have options for people that want a ready to go piece, though. Thanks for watching, Drew!
@MorosoPerformance it's been working since 2014. It was a bit tricky to Weld that dirty old cast aluminum. A billet piece would be so much nicer...
@@drewmurray2583 8 YEARS LATER AND STILL RIPPIN! Good stuff!
Distributor in front of the engine? Its in the back of the engine... please explain
When switching to a Jesel or MSD style belt driven distributor, Terry. Thanks for watching!
Looks like lightsaber
HAH! It really does 🤣
You rock Scott !
Do the microns matter? Im thinking about putting a 10 micron filter in my car, the car im talking about is an early 2000s Jaguar
I need some trick springs for my 1962 Peel P50, I’m putting an LS in it but I don’t know the weight…. Don’t you guys have a catalog with vehicle weights?
You should bring it by the shop, for r&d purposes. 😎
And make sure you have a really good spring compressor to install them
🩸
Before I start my engine. I turn on the accumulator. I like to watch the stationary engines' oil pressure rise on the gauge. Your demonstration doesn't show this.
Are these still used/relevant, or is this old technology that’s too outdated for most hot rodders and racers?
Not at all! Still very relevant. That's why we brought it back into production.
@@MorosoPerformance okay, great! Thank you for the response!
Thanks Penelope! I’m still a fan!
You mention the coil relocation kit. What about the PCV system on the LS engines?? Many have ports coming out of the rocker arm covers. How is that treated when going this route??
This is exactly what I thought was happening. Thank you for the video. I really mean it because it has been worrying me every time I go up an incline and rev up on the highway. I’m interested in seeing the results after the catch can install.
Good video! I got to get me those wire strippers you used.
So once they are on the car and don’t like the softness or hard. How can they be adjusted then? Take them off the car and adjust them? Or can they be adjusted by unbolting the bottom and push them up and turn it since it’s bolted on top
Awesome job Jim !
Thank you for posting this. Very helpful! 👍
few years late but does anyone happen to know the size/dimensions of the bolts? i need 18, however i am unable to find what they are. (not the drain plug bolt)
We offer a bolt kit for SBC pans, number 38551. 18 bolts total; 4 are 5/16"-18 x .75", and 14 are 1/4"-20 x .75" www.moroso.com/oil-pan-flange-head-bolts-sbc38551/
Cómo se llama esa pinza
62268 wire crimp tool www.moroso.com/super-duty-wire-crimping-tool62268/
It was great to see what you have been up to! What a fabulous ride!
Thanks for tuning in!!!
can you run it in reverse as I would like to mount it on frame facing solid mounted engine ?
Yes, you can! Just keep in mind that since the pulley is spinning in the opposite direction, the hoses get switched.